fuel additives FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Repair Manual
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Page 33 of 279

evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note:Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication of
the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.
1With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are
correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
Note:For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
(a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the
brake pedal is depressed.
(b) The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.
(c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
(d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.
2A brake pad wear warning light is fitted, and
it is illuminated when the thickness of the front
(or rear) disc brake pad linings reach the
minimum amount. However, a physical check
should be made to confirm the thickness of
the linings, as follows.
Disc brakes
3Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle, as
applicable, and support it on axle stands.
Where rear brake pads are fitted, also jack up
the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands.
4For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5Look through the inspection window in thecaliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the
same way.
8If any one of the brake pads has worn down
to, or below, the specified limit, all fourpads
at that end of the car must be renewed as a
set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads).
9Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that
they still have service life remaining. If any
disc is thinner than the specified minimum
thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any
case, check the general condition of the
discs. Look for excessive scoring and
discolouration caused by overheating. If these
conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and
have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to
Chapter 9).
10Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In
particular, check the flexible hoses in the
vicinity of the calipers, where they are
subjected to most movement. Bend them
between the fingers (but do not actually bend
them double, or the casing may be damaged)
and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits (see
illustration).
Rear drum brakes
11Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
12For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch to inspect the linings of the
leading brake shoes (see illustration). Check
that the thickness of the lining material on the
23 Brake check
22 Underbody and fuel/brake
line check
1•19
121.2 If any of the exhaust system rubber
mountings are to be renewed, ensure that
the replacements are of the correct type -
their colour is a good guide. Those nearest
to the catalytic converter are more heat-
resistant than the others23.10 Checking the condition of a flexible
brake hose23.13 Prise the rubber plugs from the
backplates to inspect the leading brake
shoe linings
Every 000 miles
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Page 38 of 279

To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark
plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work
on one spark plug at a time.
4If the marks on the original-equipment
spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark
the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder
the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing
belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the
plugs by gripping the rubber boot sealing thecylinder head cover opening, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
5It is advisable to soak up any water in the
spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove
any dirt from them using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
water from dropping into the cylinders. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully
1•24Every 30 000 miles
Specifications
Engine
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C148
Cooling system
Coolant protection at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:
Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -25°C (-13°F)
Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -30°C (-22°F)
Coolant specific gravity at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio and
15°C/59°F - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.061
Fuel system
Idle speed - nominal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 830 ± 50 rpm*
Air filter element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U618
Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L218
* Note: Given for reference only - not adjustable.
Ignition system
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Spark plugs:*
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads:
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms
* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to
their manufacturer’s recommendations
Braking system
Note: No minimum lining thicknesses are given by Ford - the following is given as a general recommendation. If the pad wear warning light
comes on before the front brake pad linings reach the minimum thickness, the pads should nevertheless be renewed immediately.
Minimum front or rear brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Suspension and steering
Tyre pressures (cold):Front Rear
Normally laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (31 psi) 2.1 bars (31 psi)
Fully laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 bars (35 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)
Note: Normally laden means up to 3 persons. For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary.
Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.
Wiper blades
Windscreen:
Driver’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X 5303 (and SP 01 spoiler)
Passenger’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X 5103
Tailgate:
Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X 5103
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 10 4 to 7
Auxiliary drivebelt automatic tensioner Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Radiator undershield screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
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Page 107 of 279

into the inlet ports, just above the inlet valves,
by four fuel injectors. The system also
includes features such as the flushing of fresh
(ie, cold) fuel around each injector on start-up,
thus improving hot starts.
The amount of fuel supplied by the injectors
is precisely controlled by an Electronic
Control Unit (ECU). The ECU uses the signals
derived from the engine speed/crankshaft
position sensor and the camshaft position
sensor, to trigger each injector separately in
cylinder firing order (sequential injection), with
benefits in terms of better fuel economy and
lower exhaust emissions.
Air induction system
The air system consists of an air filter
housing, an air mass meter, an intake
resonator and plenum chamber, and a throttle
housing. The air mass meter is an information-
gathering device for the ECU; it uses a “hot-
wire” system to send the ECU a constantly-
varying (analogue) voltage signal
corresponding to the volume of air passing
into the engine. Another sensor in the air mass
meter measures intake air temperature. The
ECU uses these signals to calculate the mass
of air entering the engine.
The throttle valve inside the throttle housing
is controlled by the driver, through the
accelerator pedal. As the valve opens, the
amount of air that can pass through the
system increases. The throttle potentiometer
opens further, the air mass meter’s signal
alters, and the ECU opens each injector for a
longer duration, to increase the amount of fuel
delivered to the inlet ports.
Electronic control system
The ECU controls the fuel injection system,
as well as the other sub-systems which make
up the entire engine management system. It
receives signals from a number of information
sensors, which monitor such variables as
intake air mass and temperature, coolant
temperature, engine speed and position,
acceleration/deceleration, and exhaust gas
oxygen content. These signals help the ECU
determine the injection duration necessary for
the optimum air/fuel ratio. These sensors and
associated ECU-controlled relays are located
throughout the engine compartment. For
further information regarding the ECU and its
control of the engine management system,
see Chapter 6.
Idle speed and mixture
adjustment - general
Both the idle speed and mixture are under
the control of the ECU, and cannot be
adjusted. Not only can they not be adjusted,
they cannot even be checked, except with the
use of special diagnostic equipment (see
Chapter 6) - this makes it a task for a Ford
dealer service department. Do notattempt to
“adjust” these settings in any way without
such equipment.
If the idle speed and mixture are thought tobe incorrect, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer
for the complete system to be tested.
On models equipped with a heated
windscreen, an idle-increase solenoid valve is
fitted, which raises the idle speed to
compensate for the increased load on the
engine when the heated windscreen is
switched on. When the valve is open, air from
the plenum chamber bypasses the throttle
housing and idle speed control valve, passing
directly into the inlet manifold through the
union on its left-hand end. The system is
active only for the four minutes that the
heated windscreen circuit is live, and is
supplementary to the main (ECU-controlled)
idle speed regulation.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work
in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance
with a pilot light is present. While
performing any work on the fuel system,
wear safety glasses, and have a dry
chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
Note: This is an initial check of the fuel delivery
and air induction sub-systems of the engine
management system, to be carried out in
conjunction with the operational check of the
fuel pump (see Section 8), and as part of the
preliminary checks of the complete engine
management system (see Section 3 of
Chapter 6).
1Check the earth wire connections for
tightness. Check all wiring and electrical
connectors that are related to the system.
Loose electrical connectors and poor earths
can cause many problems that resemble
more serious malfunctions.
2Check to see that the battery is fully-
charged. The ECU and sensors depend on an
accurate supply voltage to properly meter the
fuel.
3Check the air filter element - a dirty or
partially-blocked filter will severely impede
performance and economy (see Chapter 1).
4If a blown fuse is found, renew it and see if
it blows again. If it does, search for a short-
circuited wire in the harness related to the
system (see Chapter 6).
5Check the air intake duct from the intake to
the inlet manifold for leaks, which will result in
an excessively-lean mixture. Also check the
condition of the vacuum hoses connected to
the inlet manifold.
6Remove the plenum chamber from the
throttle housing. Check the throttle valve for
dirt, carbon or other residue build-up. If it’sdirty, seek the advice of a Ford dealer - since
the electronic control system is designed to
compensate for factors such as the build-up
of dirt in the throttle housing, it may well be
best to leave it dirty, unless the deposits are
extensive. Note: A warning label on the
housing states specifically that the housing
bore and the throttle valve have a special
coating, and must not be cleaned using
carburettor cleaner, as this may damage it.
7With the engine running, place a
screwdriver or a stethoscope against each
injector, one at a time. Listen through the
screwdriver handle or stethoscope for a
clicking sound, indicating operation.
8If an injector isn’t operating (or sounds
different from the others), turn off the engine,
and unplug the electrical connector from the
injector. Check the resistance across the
terminals of the injector, and compare your
reading with the resistance value listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If the resistance
isn’t as specified, renew the injector.
9A rough idle, diminished performance
and/or increased fuel consumption could also
be caused by clogged or fouled fuel injectors.
Fuel additives that can sometimes clean
fouled injectors are available at car accessory
shops.
10The remainder of the system checks
should be left to a dealer service department
or other qualified repair specialist, as there is
a chance that the ECU may be damaged if
tests are not performed properly.
Warning: The fuel system
pressure must be released before
any part of the system is
disturbed - see Section 2. Petrol
is extremely flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on any part of
the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow
open flames or bare light bulbs, near the
work area. Don’t work in a garage where a
natural gas-type appliance (such as a
water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot
light is present. If you spill any fuel on your
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,
and have a Class B type fire extinguisher
on hand.
Throttle housing
Check
1Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec-
tion 4), and verify that the throttle linkage
operates smoothly.
2If the housing bore and valve are dirty
enough for you to think that this might be the
cause of a fault, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer. Do notclean the housing (see the
notes in the checking procedure given in
Section 15).
16 Fuel system components-
check and renewal
15 Fuel injection system/engine
management system - check
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
4
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2The function of these components is to
reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the oil
separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by
the engine during normal combustion.
Checking
3Checking procedures for the system
components are included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal
Cylinder head-to-air cleaner hose
4See Chapter 1.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
valve
5The valve is plugged into the oil separator.
Depending on the tools available, access to
the valve may be possible once the pulse-air
assembly has been removed (see Section 7).
If this is not feasible, proceed as outlined in
paragraph 6 below.
Oil separator
6Remove the exhaust manifold (see Chap-
ter 2, Part A). The Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve can now be unplugged
and flushed, or renewed, as required, as
described in Chapter 1.
7Unbolt the oil separator from the cylinder
block/crankcase, and withdraw it; remove and
discard the gasket.
8Flush out or renew the oil separator, as
required (see Chapter 1).
9On reassembly, fit a new gasket, and
tighten the fasteners to the torque wrench
settings given in the Specifications Section of
Chapter 2, Part B.
10The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal. Refill the cooling
system (see Chapter 1). Run the engine,
check for exhaust leaks, and check the
coolant level when it is fully warmed-up.
General information
1The exhaust gases of any petrol engine
(however efficient or well-tuned) consist
largely (approximately 99 %) of nitrogen (N
2),
carbon dioxide (CO
2), oxygen (O2), other inert
gases and water vapour (H
2O). The remaining
1 % is made up of the noxious materials
which are currently seen (CO
2apart) as the
major polluters of the environment: carbon
monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC),oxides of nitrogen (NO
x) and some solid
matter, including a small lead content.
2Left to themselves, most of these pollutants
are thought eventually to break down naturally
(CO and NO
x, for example, break down in the
upper atmosphere to release CO
2) having first
caused ground-level environmental problems.
The massive increase world-wide in the use of
motor vehicles, and the current popular
concern for the environment has caused the
introduction in most countries of legislation, in
varying degrees of severity, to combat the
problem.
3The device most commonly used to clean
up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter.
It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system,
and uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the vehicle’s exhaust gases, CO
and HC being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in the three-way type of catalytic
converter) NO
xbeing reduced to N2. Note:
The catalytic converter is not a filter in the
physical sense; its function is to promote a
chemical reaction, but it is not itself affected
by that reaction.
4The converter consists of an element (or
“substrate”) of ceramic honeycomb, coated
with a combination of precious metals in such
a way as to produce a vast surface area over
which the exhaust gases must flow; the whole
being mounted in a stainless-steel box. A
simple “oxidation” (or “two-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO and HC only,
while a “reduction” (or “three-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO, HC and NO
x.
Three-way catalytic converters are further
sub-divided into “open-loop” (or
“uncontrolled”) converters which can remove
50 to 70 % of pollutants and “closed-loop”
(also known as “controlled” or “regulated”)
converters which can remove over 90 % of
pollutants.
5The catalytic converter fitted to the Mondeo
models covered in this manual is of the three-
way closed-loop type.
6The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
(a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency, and
will eventually destroy the converter; it will
also affect the operation of the oxygen
sensor, requiring its renewal if lead-
fouled. Opinions vary as to how much
leaded fuel is necessary to affect the
converter’s performance, and whether it
can recover even if only unleaded petrol is
used afterwards; the best course of action
is, therefore, to assume the worst, and to
ensure that NO leaded petrol is used at
any time.
(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systemswell-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule (Chapter 1) -
particularly, ensure that the air filter
element, the fuel filter and the spark plugs
are renewed at the correct intervals. If the
intake air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above. For the
same reason, do not persist if the engine
refuses to start - either trace the problem
and cure it yourself, or have the vehicle
checked immediately by a qualified
mechanic.
(d) Avoid allowing the vehicle to run out of
petrol.
(e) DO NOT push- or tow-start the vehicle
unless no other alternative exists,
especially if the engine and exhaust are at
normal operating temperature. Starting
the engine in this way may soak the
catalytic converter in unburned fuel,
causing it to overheat when the engine
does start - see (b) above.
(f) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds, in particular, do not “blip”
the throttle immediately before switching
off. If the ignition is switched off at
anything above idle speed, unburned fuel
will enter the (very hot) catalytic converter,
with the possible risk of its igniting on the
element and damaging the converter.
(g) Avoid repeated successive cold starts
followed by short journeys. If the
converter is never allowed to reach its
proper working temperature, it will gather
unburned fuel, allowing some to pass into
the atmosphere and the rest to soak in
the element, causing it to overheat when
a long journey is made - see (b) above.
(h) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter. Similarly, DO NOT
use silicone-based sealants on any part of
the engine or fuel system, and do not use
exhaust sealants on any part of the
exhaust system upstream of the catalytic
converter. Even if the sealant itself does
not contain additives harmful to the
converter, pieces of it may break off and
foul the element, causing local
overheating.
(i) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. Unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases, the element will overheat.
(j) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
9 Catalytic converter -
general information, checking
and component renewal
Emissions control systems 6•19
6
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