oil level FORD SIERRA 1982 1.G Routine Manintenance And Servicing User Guide

system immediately if the charge is low and
do not use it again until it has been recharged.
4Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging
as a maintenance operation.
1Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands. The
vehicle must be level.
3Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustrations) and unscrew the
plug. Using a piece of bent wire as a dipstick,
check that the oil is no more than 10 mm (0.4
in) below the plug hole.
4If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it to the specified torque
loading.
6There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided.
Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.
1Check the shock absorbers by bouncing
the vehicle up and down at each corner in
turn. When released, it should come to rest
within one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required .
2Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all
steering and suspension components for
wear and damage. Pay particular attention to
dust covers and gaiters, which if renewed
promptly when damaged can save further
damage to the component protected.
3At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms(see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5
mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints can
be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed .4Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by
spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any
roughness or excessive noise indicates worn
bearings, which must be renewed, as no
adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any
wear will be evident unless the vehicle has
covered a very high mileage. It should be
noted that it is normal for the bearings to
exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as
wheel rock at the wheel rim.
1Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must
be renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself
3Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange screws.
1Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. 2Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
4Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer
to Chapter 12 for details of repair.
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks.
Renew any defective item without delay.
On carburettor models which incorporate a
stepper motor (ie. Weber 2V from 1985), good
electrical contact between the motor plunger
and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.
Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.
34Road test
33Idle speed linkage clean
32Brake pipe and hose check
31Underbody inspection
30Driveshaft check
29Steering and suspension
security check
28Automatic transmission
selector linkage lubrication
27Final drive oil level check
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
1
29.3 Levering up lower arm to check
balljoint for wear
27.3b Rear axle filler plug location -
P100 models27.3a Final drive unit filler plug location
(arrowed) -
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models

6Fit the new filter, ensuring that the arrows on
the filter body point in the direction of fuel flow.
7Tighten the clamp screw, and reconnect
the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Ensure that the
unions are correctly connected.
8Reconnect the battery negative lead, and
check the fuel line unions for leaks,
pressurising the system by switching the
ignition on and off several times.
All models except 2.0 litre SOHC
9Proceed as described for the 2.0 litre SOHCmodels, noting the following points.
10The fuel filter is located under the rear of
the vehicle, above the driveshaft (see
illustration). For access to the filter, chock
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11To remove the filter, the mounting bracket
must first be removed from the floor, after
unscrewing the securing bolt. The filter can
then be removed from the bracket after
unscrewing the clamp bolt.On carburettor model SOHC engines,
renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by
pulling it from the oil separator and loosening
the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new
valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil
separator grommet.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant and bleeding equipment will
be needed. A considerable quantity of
hydraulic fluid will be required - probably
about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon).
2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a
purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a
tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the
caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have
the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges
from the bleed screw again.8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand
caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the
level of the bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear
of the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-
hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes (Chapter 10).
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of the
hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure for
SOHC engines but is compulsory for CVH
engines. Refer to Chapter 2 for the
appropriate renewal procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2It is preferable to drain the cooling system
with the engine cold. If this is not possible,
take precautions against scalding when
removing the expansion tank cap. Place a
thick rag over the cap and slacken the cap a
little to release any pressure. When all
pressure has been released, carry on
unscrewing the cap and remove it.
3Early models have no radiator drain plug, so
the radiator must be drained by detaching the
bottom coolant hose from the outlet on the
right-hand side of the radiator. Later SOHC
models have a drain plug located in the base
of the left-hand radiator end tank, whilst all
CVH models have a drain plug in the
right-hand radiator end tank and DOHC
models have a plug to the bottom right-hand
side of the radiator.
46Engine coolant renewal
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•21
1
42.1 Removing the crankcase vent valve
from the oil separator41.10 Fuel filter location (arrowed) under
rear of vehicle41.1 Fuel filter location - outlet union
arrowed
Caution: Before proceeding,
note the precautions given in
Chapter 3, Section 1.
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years