radiator FORD SIERRA 1983 1.G Bodywork And Fittings Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1983, Model line: SIERRA, Model: FORD SIERRA 1983 1.GPages: 22, PDF Size: 1.2 MB
Page 1 of 22

Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front seat belt stalk-to-seat bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 28 18 to 22
Seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 22 to 30
Seat belt inertia reel securing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 22 to 30
Seat mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Cab safety grille securing bolts (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 27 15 to 20
Rear bump stop securing nuts (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Cargo area-to-chassis bolts (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 50 29 to 37
Tailboard hinge securing screws (P100 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Chapter 12
Bodywork and fittings
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Bumper trim moulding - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Cab air vent panel (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .35
Cab interior trim panels (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . .42
Cargo area (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door check arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Door window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Exterior rear pillar trim panel (Saloon models) - removal and refitting .34
Facia panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Front seat air cushion assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .49
Fuel filler flap - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Inner gutter weatherstrip (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models)-
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Interior pillar trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Interior trim panels - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Maintenance - bodywork, underside and fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Opening rear quarter window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Radiator grille panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Rear seat catch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Sunroof - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Tailboard (P100 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Tailgate/boot lid/fuel filler flap release cable - removal and refitting .14
Tailgate/boot lid spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Tailgate (Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and refitting . . . .11
Tailgate lock (Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and refitting . .12
Tailgate strut (Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and refitting .13
Wheel arch liners - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Windscreen cowl panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Windscreen, rear window and fixed rear quarter windows - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
12•1
Specifications Contents
12
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Page 4 of 22

compatible with the type of plastic used. At one
time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of plastics
encountered in body component applications.
Standard paints, generally speaking, will not
bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily.
However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic
body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-
primer treatment, a primer and coloured top
coat. Full instructions are normally supplied with
a kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to 30
minutes. Then the primer is applied and left to
dry for about an hour before finally applying the
special coloured top coat. The result is a
correctly coloured component where the paint
will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property
that standard paint does not normally possess.
Where serious damage has occurred or large
areas need renewal due to neglect, it means
certainly that completely new sections or panels
will need welding in and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact, it
will also be necessary to completely check the
alignment of the bodyshell structure. Due to the
principle of construction, the strength and shape
of the whole car can be affected by damage to
one part. In such instances the services of a
Ford agent with specialist checking jigs are
essential. If a body is left misaligned, it is first of
all dangerous as the car will not handle properly,
and secondly uneven stresses will be imposed
on the steering, engine and transmission,
causing abnormal wear or complete failure. Tyre
wear may also be excessive.
Removal
1Support the bonnet in its open position,
and place protective covers (old rags or
cardboard) beneath the corners of the bonnet,
and over the front wings to prevent damage to
the paintwork.
2Remove the screw and disconnect the earth
strap from the rear left-hand edge of the bonnet
(see illustration). Where applicable, disconnect
the wiring from the underbonnet lamp.
3Mark the location of the hinges on the sides
of the bonnet with a soft pencil or masking
tape, then loosen the four hinge bolts.
4With the help of an assistant, remove the
bolts and lift the bonnet from the vehicle (see
illustration).
5If required, the underbonnet insulation can
be removed by prising out the two-piece
plastic securing clips.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.7Adjust the hinges to their original marked
positions before tightening the bolts.
8On completion, check that the bonnet is
central within its aperture and aligned with the
surrounding bodywork. Re-adjust the hinges
to give satisfactory alignment if necessary.
9Check that the bonnet lock striker engages
fully in the lock, and if necessary adjust the
position of the lock striker and/or the height of
the bonnet rubber bump stops (see
illustration).
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, remove the
three retaining screws, and withdraw the
lower steering column shroud.
2Remove the retaining screw, and withdraw
the release cable bracket from the steering
column.
3Working in the engine compartment, pull
the cable sheath end fitting from its bracket,
and release the cable end fitting from the lock
lever (see illustration).
4Release the cable from the clips in the
engine compartment.
5Pull the cable through the bulkhead into the
passenger compartment, taking care not to
lose the bulkhead grommet.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the grommet is correctly located in thebulkhead, and that the cable is free from
sharp bends and kinks. There should be a
small amount of free play at the lock end of
the cable if necessary re-route the cable to
achieve this condition.
7Note that should the release cable snap
while the bonnet is shut, the bonnet may be
opened as follows.
8Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“
Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
9Using an inspection lamp or torch, look up
between the radiator and the radiator grille
panel and locate the circular hole below the
bonnet lock (see illustration).
10Insert a screwdriver through the hole so
that it passes to the right of the lock striker.
Twist or lever the lock sliding plate to the right
until the striker is released. The bonnet can
now be opened.
7Bonnet lock release cable -
removal and refitting
6Bonnet - removal and refitting
5Major body damage - repair
12•4Bodywork and fittings
6.2 Remove the screw and disconnect the
bonnet earth cable
6.9 Adjustable bonnet rubber bump stop
7.9 Access hole (arrowed) below bonnet
lock7.3 Bonnet lock release cable end fittings -
models up to 1987
6.4 Lifting the bonnet from the vehicle
Page 5 of 22

Models up to 1987
1Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock by
pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
2Remove the three securing screws and
withdraw the lock from the front panel.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1987
4Remove the radiator grille panel.
5Disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock
by pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
6Detach the bracing strut from the lock by
removing the screw, then remove the two
securing screws and withdraw the lock from
the front panel.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Open the boot lid, and place protective
covers (old rags or cardboard) beneath the
corners of the lid, and over the rear wings to
prevent damage to the paintwork.
2Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
from the lock solenoid and “boot lid ajar”
sensor, after disconnecting the battery
negative lead.
3Release the wiring loom grommets, taking
care not to lose them, then tie string to the
wiring loom(s), and pull the loom(s) through
the boot lid. Leave the string(s) in position in
the boot lid to aid refitting of the loom(s).
4Mark the location of the hinges on the
underside of the lid using a soft pencil or
masking type, then loosen the four hinge bolts.5With the help of an assistant, remove the
bolts and lift the boot lid from the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
7Adjust the hinges to their original marked
positions before tightening the bolts.
8On completion, check that the boot lid is
central within its aperture and aligned with the
surrounding bodywork. Re-adjust the hinges
to give satisfactory alignment if necessary.
9Check that the lock striker engages fully in
the lock, and if necessary adjust the position
of the lock striker.
Removal
1With the boot lid raised, remove the lock
barrel retaining clip.
2Where applicable, disconnect the operating
lever from the central locking solenoid/motor,
then withdraw the lock barrel.
3Remove the three retaining screws from the
lock assembly, if necessary loosening the
reinforcing plate (see illustration).
4Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, the earth lead from the bootlid
and the “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug.
Unclip the luggage compartment light switch
from the lock assembly, where applicable.
5Withdraw the lock assembly from the boot
lid.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the lock
assembly and loosely refitting the retaining
screws.
7Insert the lock barrel, where applicable
reconnecting the operating lever to the
solenoid, and refit the retaining clip.
8Tighten the lock assembly retaining screws,
and where applicable reconnect the earth
lead and “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug,
and the battery negative lead.
9If the reinforcing plate was loosened during
removal, tighten the retaining screws.Note: On Hatchback models made before
1990 with an integral heated rear
window/radio aerial, note that the radio aerial
lead is routed through different openings to
that of other models in the rear bodywork and
the tailgate. If a new, later-specification
tailgate is to be fitted to an earlier vehicle, a
new opening must be made in the bodywork
for the aerial lead. Ideally, this work should be
carried out by a Ford dealer, who will have the
necessary template available to ensure that
the opening is positioned accurately.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the tailgate and prise out the trim
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver.
3Disconnect the wiring from the heated rear
window, rear wash/wipe, interior light, lock
solenoid and “tailgate ajar” sensor, as
applicable. Disconnect the washer fluid hose
where applicable; be prepared for fluid
spillage.
4Release the wiring loom/hose grommet(s)
taking care not to lose it/them, then tie string
to the wiring loom(s)/hose, and pull the
loom(s)/hose through the tailgate. Leave the
string(s) in position in the tailgate to aid
refitting of the loom(s)/hose.
5Have an assistant support the tailgate, then
disconnect the support struts by prising out
the retaining clips. Do not remove the clips
completely, just raise them by a maximum of
4.0 mm (0.16 in) and then pull the struts off
their mountings (see illustration).
6Prise out the hinge fixing covers from the
headlining, unscrew the hinge nuts and
washers, and with the aid of the assistant,
withdraw the tailgate from the vehicle (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge nuts until the tailgate is
positioned centrally in its aperture. If
necessary, adjust the position of the lock
striker so that it engages fully in the lock.
11Tailgate (Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and
refitting
10Boot lid lock (Saloon models)
- removal and refitting
9Boot lid (Saloon models) -
removal and refitting
8Bonnet lock - removal and
refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•5
12
11.6 Tailgate hinge assembly - Hatchback
and Estate models
11.5 Prising out a tailgate strut retaining
clip10.3 Boot lid lock - Saloon models
A Lock retaining
screws
B Earth leadC Reinforcing plate
screws
Page 13 of 22

7On models with remote control mirrors,
insert a thin screwdriver through the hole in
the bottom of the mirror assembly, and whilst
supporting the glass, release the locking ring
(see illustration).
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the front edge of the mirror is correctly
located under the window surround.
Electric mirror
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10If working on the driver’s side of models
up to 1987, prise the mirror switch assembly
from the door trim panel and disconnect the
wiring plug.
11If working on the driver’s side of models
from 1987, prise the securing screw cover
from the mirror control panel, then remove the
screw and withdraw the control panel.
Disconnect the wiring plug.
12On models up to 1987, and when working
on the passenger side of models from 1987,
prise out the mirror trim panel.
13Remove the three mirror securing screws,
and withdraw the mirror by tilting its rear edge
outwards and disengaging its front edge from
under the window surround. Withdraw the
wiring through the door.
14To remove the mirror glass proceed as
described in paragraph 7.
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the front edge of the mirror is
correctly located under the window surround.
Front bumper
Models up to 1987
1Remove the radiator grille panel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring plugs from the
indicators, and where applicable the
foglamps.
3Working under the front wing, release the
single bumper fastener from each side of the
vehicle by turning the plastic clip through 90º
(quarter of a turn).
4On Ghia models, unclip the support strap
between each front wing and the bumper.
5Unscrew the single bolt securing each
bumper fixing bracket to the body front panel,
then pull the bumper forwards away from the
body, disengaging the retaining pegs from the
clips in each wing.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal; ensure that
all fixings are correctly located and secure.
Models from 1987
7If foglamps are fitted, disconnect the
battery negative lead, then disconnect the
wiring plugs from the foglamps.
8Working under the front wings, unscrew the
single bolt from each side of the bumper.
9Release the plastic retaining screws and
pull the wheel arch liners away from the ends
of the bumper.
10Pull the bumper forwards away from the
body, releasing the front mounting spigots
from their sockets.11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the reinforcing plate and O-ring are
located on the right-hand mounting spigot.
12The bumper height can be adjusted by
turning the adjusters located on the front
mounting spigots using a suitable Torx
screwdriver with a length of at least 150.0 mm
(6.0 in) (see illustrations).
Rear bumper - Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models
13Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the number plate lamps from the bumper,
and disconnect the wiring plugs. Withdraw the
wiring through the bumper assembly.
14Working inside the luggage compartment,
unscrew the two bumper securing bolts.
15Working under the rear wings, release the
single bumper fastener from each side of the
vehicle by turning the plastic clip through 90º
(quarter of a turn) (see illustration).
16Pull the bumper rearwards away from the
body, disengaging the retaining pegs from the
clips in each wing.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that all fixings are correctly located
and secure.
18On some later models, the bumper height
can be adjusted by means of the adjusters
located on the mounting brackets - see
paragraph 12 (see illustration).
Rear bump stop - P100 models
19Working underneath the vehicle, unscrew
the two securing nuts and washers from the
bump stop studs, and withdraw the bump
stop (see illustration).
20Refitting is a reversal of removal.
30Bumper - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•13
12
30.15 Rear bumper plastic fastener30.19 Rear bump stop securing nut
locations (arrowed) - P100 models30.18 Adjusting the height of a rear
bumper
30.12b Front bumper height adjusting
screw - models from 198730.12a Adjusting the height of a front
bumper - models from 198729.7 Manual remote control and electric
door mirror glass removal
A Locking operation
B Unlocking
operationC Locating pegs
D Locking slots
E Locking ring
Page 14 of 22

New bumpers are supplied without the trim
moulding fitted. Special primer and adhesive
tape are specified by the manufacturer to
retain the moulding: it is suggested that a
Ford dealer is consulted for further details.
A damaged moulding can be removed by
prising it from the bumper using a screwdriver.
Models up to 1987
1With the bonnet raised, remove the four
grille panel securing screws from the top of
the front panel.
2Lift the grille panel from its lower mounting
bushes, and withdraw it from the vehicle.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the lower mounting lugs are correctly
located in their bushes.
Models from 1987
4With the bonnet raised, remove the two
grille panel securing screws from the front
face of the panel.
5Release the upper and lower grille retaining
clips, and withdraw the grille panel from the
vehicle (see illustrations).
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but align
the grille panel carefully before tightening the
securing screws.
Models from 1990
7With the bonnet raised, remove the two
securing screws from the top of the grille
panel.
8Slide the panel towards the driver’s side of
the vehicle, then pull the panel forwards to
release the retaining clips (see illustration).
9Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Open the bonnet and disconnect the
windscreen washer hose at the T-piece
connector.
2Remove both windscreen wiper arm
assemblies.
3Remove the single securing screw from
each end of the cowl panel.
4On models up to 1987, prise out the screw
covers and remove the eight plastic screws
securing the cowl panel to the body.
Withdraw the panel.
5On models from 1987, prise out the screw
covers and remove the plastic securing
screws. Pull the front edge of the cowl panel
upwards to disengage the front fixing clips,
then move the panel to the left and then to the
right to disengage the hooks on the panel
underside. Withdraw the panel.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.1Remove the interior rear pillar trim panel.
2Unscrew the three now exposed securing
nuts and withdraw the exterior trim panel (see
illustration).
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
overtighten the securing nuts, as this may
result in damage to the rubber seals.
1Remove the cab interior side trim panel.
2Working inside the cab, remove the two
rubber grommets from the rear pillar, then
unscrew the two now exposed nuts, and
withdraw the air vent panel.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
1Where fitted, the wheel arch liners may be
retained by self-tapping screws, plastic clips,
or a combination of both.
2To remove a liner, simply unscrew the
retaining screws, or where plastic clips are
fitted, release them by turning with a
screwdriver (see illustration).
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Open the filler flap and the tailgate or boot
lid, as applicable.
2Remove the fuel filler cap and then remove
the screw securing the filler housing to the
fuel tank neck (see illustration).
3Working inside the luggage compartment,
depress the filler housing retaining tangs, and
push the assembly out through the body
panel. Recover the gasket.
37Fuel filler flap - removal and
refitting
36Wheel arch liners - renewal
35Cab air vent panel (P100
models) - renewal
34Exterior rear pillar trim panel
(Saloon models) - renewal
33Windscreen cowl panel -
removal and refitting
32Radiator grille panel -
removal and refitting
31Bumper trim moulding -
renewal
12•14Bodywork and fittings
32.8 Removing the later type front grille
panel36.2 Releasing a wheel arch liner plastic
clip34.2 Exterior rear pillar trim panel securing
nut locations (arrowed) - Saloon models
A Heated rear window wiring plug
32.5b Radiator grille panel lower retaining
clip - models from 198732.5a Radiator grille panel upper retaining
clip - models from 1987