ad blue FORD SIERRA 1986 1.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1986, Model line: SIERRA, Model: FORD SIERRA 1986 1.GPages: 20, PDF Size: 0.94 MB
Page 6 of 20
1Remove the hub carrier.
2Reverse the roadwheel nuts and screw
them fully onto the studs to protect the
threads, then mount the hub carrier assembly
in a vice as shown (see illustration).
3Prise the dust cap from the rear of the hub
carrier, and unscrew the hub nut with a
suitable socket. Note that on all models
manufactured before late December 1982,
both left and right-hand nuts have a
right-hand thread, but as from this date,
left-hand thread assemblies were
progressively fitted to the right-hand hub
carrier. The modified right-hand hub can be
identified by the letter “R” stamped on its
outer face, or by the colour of the hub nut
nylon insert, blue indicates a normal
right-hand thread, and yellow indicates a
left-hand thread.
4Remove the splined washer, and tap the
hub carrier from the drive flange. Recover the
bearing inner race and rollers from the inner
end of the hub carrier (see illustration).
5Prise the oil seal from the outer end of the
hub carrier and remove the remaining bearing
inner race and rollers.
6Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.
7Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
8Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
9Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub camber.
10Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note that onearly models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this early type of seal should be replaced
with the later type which has a metal casing.
The oil seal should be renewed regardless of
type, and a new seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel bearings.
11With the drive flange mounted in a vice, as
during dismantling, tap the hub carrier onto
the drive flange.
12Fit the inner bearing assembly, tapping it
into place with a metal tube of suitable
diameter if necessary, and fit the splined
washer. Note that the bearings are self-setting
on assembly, and no subsequent adjustment
is required.
13Refit the hub nut and tighten it to the
specified torque.
14Tap the dust cap into position in the hub
carrier.
15Remove the assembly from the vice,
remove the roadwheel nuts, and refit the hub
carrier.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.2Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
underbody (see illustrations).
3Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts and recover the dished washers
and plastic covers, where applicable (see
illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing one of the lower arms to
the crossmember, and pull the end of the
lower arm from the crossmember.
6Pull the anti-roll bar from the bush in the
“free” lower arm then slide the anti-roll bar
from the remaining fixed lower arm. Recover
the remaining dished washers and plastic
covers (where applicable) from the ends of the
anti-roll bar.
7If necessary, the anti-roll bar compliance
bushes can be renewed as described in
Section 8, and the anti-roll bar U-clamp
bushes can be renewed by sliding them off
the ends of the bar. Note that although the
U-clamp bushes are of a split design, they
should not be levered open to aid fitting, and
the new bushes must be slid on from the ends
of the anti-roll bar. The bushes should always
be renewed in pairs.
7Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
6Front wheel bearings - renewal
11•6Suspension and steering
6.2 Front hub carrier mounted in vice to
unscrew hub nut
7.2b . . . unscrew the bolts and remove the
anti-roll bar U-clamps7.2a Bend back the locktabs (arrowed) . . .
6.4 Front hub components
A Dust cap
B Hub nutC Splined washer
D Taper roller bearingE Bearing outer race
F Hub carrierG Oil seal
H Drive flange
Page 7 of 20
Refitting
8To refit the anti-roll bar, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washers (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic covers
(where applicable) to the ends of the anti-roll
bar, then push the anti-roll bar through the
bushes in the lower arms. Fit the remaining
plastic covers (where applicable) and the
deep dished washers (colour coded yellow or
black) and loosely fit the securing nuts. Note
that the convex faces of the dished washers
must face the lower arm. Do not tighten the
nuts fully at this stage.
10Locate the “free” lower arm inner pivot
bush in the crossmember, and refit the pivot
bolt, washer and nut. If necessary, push the
outer rim of the roadwheel in order to line up
the holes in the lower arm bush and the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt head
should face to the rear of the vehicle. Do not
tighten the bolt at this stage.
11Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels.
12Refit the anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Note that various different
types of clamping components have been
used during production, and if any of the
components are to be renewed, it is important
to retain the old components for identification
when ordering new parts. The same type of
clamp assembly must be used on both sides
of the vehicle. Tighten the bolts evenly on
each clamp to the specified torque. Where
applicable, secure the bolts with the locktabs.
13Bounce the vehicle to settle the
suspension, then tighten the lower arm pivot
bolt, following the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.Note: The compliance bushes must be
renewed in vehicle sets, therefore the bushes
on both sides of the vehicle must be renewed
at the same time. If plastic covers were not
originally fitted between the dished washers
and the bushes, suitable covers should be
obtained for fitting during reassembly.
1Remove the anti-roll bar.
2Using a thin-bladed chisel or screwdriver,
carefully prise out the compliance bushes
from the lower arms.
3Tap the new bushes into place using a
suitable socket or tube drift (see illustration).
4Some vehicles may have small rubber
spacer washers fitted to the ends of the
anti-roll bar, and these should be discarded
on reassembly.
5Refit the anti-roll bar.
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember.
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable).
4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Pull the inner end of the lower arm from the
crossmember.
6The pivot bush can now be removed from
the lower arm using a long bolt with nut,
washers and a suitable metal tube.
7Lubricate the new bush with soapy water,
and fit with a single continuous action to avoiddeformation of the bush, again using the bolt,
nut, washers and tube.
8Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember, and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
9Refit the plastic cover, dished washer
(where applicable), and nut to the end of the
anti-roll bar. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage.
10Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
11Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
12Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
13Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: From May 1986, revised final drive unit
rear mounting bolts have been used in
production. Whenever the earlier type of bolts
are removed, they should be discarded and
the later type fitted. The earlier bolts are
coloured blue, and the later type bolts are
coloured gold.
Removal
1Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). It
is only strictly necessary to jack up the rear of
the vehicle, but this provides only limited
access. Note that the axle stands should be
positioned under the side members.
2Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie. from the joint.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Disconnect the handbrake equaliser from
the operating rod by removing the circlip and
10Rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
9Front suspension lower arm
inner pivot bush - renewal
8Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
compliance bushes - renewal
Suspension and steering 11•7
11
8.3 Tapping a front anti-roll bar-to-lower
arm compliance bush into position
7.4 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm mounting
A Rear (black or green) shallow dished
washer
B Plastic cover (where applicable)
C Compliance bushes
D Plastic cover (where applicable)
E Front (yellow or black) deep dished
washer
Page 12 of 20
22Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, and
jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel and
release the handbrake.
23Unbolt the brake caliper carrier bracket
and support the caliper on an axle stand,
taking care not to strain the flexible hose.
24Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the disc.
25Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller, pull off the drive flange.
26Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
27With the hub carrier removed, the
bearings can be renewed as described in
paragraphs 10 to 16 of this Section.
28Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then using a
soft-faced mallet, drive the drive flange/hub
carrier assembly onto the end of the stub axle.
Do not forget to fit the splash shield.
29Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
30Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
31When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
32Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel.
P100 models
Note: A new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
33Remove the relevant driveshaft.
34Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and an extension
bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the nut is
extremely tight.
35Pull off the hub, and remove the O-ring
and spacer sleeve from the recess in the hub
(see illustration).
36Prise the oil seal from the rear of the hub
using a screwdriver.
37Using a block of wood, or a suitable metal
tube inserted from the rear of the hub, tap out
the ball-bearing.
38Clean the hub with paraffin, wipe dry and
examine for damage and wear.
39Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
resting on the bearing outer race only, tap the
new bearing into the hub. Ensure that the
bearing is correctly seated.
40Carefully fit a new oil seal to the rear of the
hub, using a suitable metal tube.41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Fit a new rear hub nut, and stake in
position after tightening to the specified
torque.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the relevant front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.
3Using a length of wood, lever the
suspension crossmember downwards a few
inches from the underbody, and insert the
wood as a wedge.
4Using a tool similar to the Ford special tool
shown (see illustration), or a long bolt with
nut, washers and a suitable metal tube, pull
the mounting rubber from the crossmember.
5Lubricate the new mounting rubber with
soapy water, and use the tool described in the
previous paragraph to press the rubber into
the crossmember.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).Note: From May 1986, revised rear
suspension/final drive unit rear mounting bolts
have been used in production. Whenever the
earlier type of bolts are removed, they should
be discarded and the later type fitted. The
earlier bolts are coloured blue, and the later
type bolts are coloured gold.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
3Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the mounting to the underbody. Note
the location and number of any shims which
may be fitted.
4Lower the final drive unit sufficiently to
enable the mounting to be unbolted from the
final drive unit rear cover (see illustration).
16Rear suspension/final drive
unit rear mounting (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal
15Rear suspension front
mounting (Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models) - renewal
11•12Suspension and steering
15.4 Ford special tool 15-014 for removing
rear suspension front mounting rubber
14.35 Rear hub components - P100 models
A Oil seal
B Hub
C Ball-bearingD Hub nut
E Spacer sleeve
F O-ring
16.4 Rear suspension/final drive unit rear
mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts