oil FORD SIERRA 1986 1.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual

Front suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by MacPherson struts with coil springs and integral
telescopic shock absorbers. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models
Rear suspension
Type:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by semi-trailing arms and coil springs with telescopic
shock absorbers mounted behind coil springs on Saloon and
Hatchback models but concentric with coil springs on Estate models.
Self-levelling rear shock absorbers on certain Estate models. Anti-roll
bar fitted to certain models
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Live beam axle with leaf springs and telescopic shock absorbers
Steering
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack-and-pinion steering gear linked to collapsible steering column by
flexible coupling and universal joint. Power steering available on
certain models
Front wheel alignment*
Production toe-setting:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm (0.08 in) ± 1.0 mm (0.04 in) toe-in
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm (0.08 in) ± 2.0 mm (0.08 in) toe-in
Service tolerance before adjustment is required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 mm (0.02 in) toe-out to 4.5 mm (0.18 in) toe-in
*Toe-setting figures are quoted for vehicle at kerb weight with 3.0 litres (0.66 gallons) of fuel in tank
Chapter 11
Suspension and steering
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm compliance bushes - renewal . . . . . .8
Front hub carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Front suspension crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . .3
Front suspension lower arm inner pivot bush - renewal . . . . . . . . . . .9
Front suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .4
Front wheel - alignment checking and adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Front wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Manual steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Power steering fluid circuit - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Power steering fluid hoses - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Power steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear anti-roll bar (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Rear coil spring (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Rear suspension and axle assembly (P100 models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Rear suspension and final drive unit assembly (Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Rear suspension/final drive unit rear mounting (Saloon Hatchback and
Estate models) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Rear suspension front mounting (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Rear suspension leaf spring (P100 models) - removal and refitting . .19
Rear suspension leaf spring bush (P100 models) - renewal . . . . . . .21
Rear suspension leaf spring shackle (P100 models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Rear suspension lower arm (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Rear wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Steering column adjuster - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . .25
Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Steering gear rubber gaiter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Steering intermediate shaft and flexible coupling - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Steering wheel - centralising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Tie-rod end - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
11•1
Specifications Contents
11
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
P100 models:
Shock absorber-to-chassis crossmember bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 to 7044 to 52
Leaf spring-to-front bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 to 196116 to 145
Leaf spring-to-spring shackle bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 to 196116 to 145
Spring shackle-to-underbody bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 8559 to 63
Axle-to-leaf spring U-bolt nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 to 5829 to 43
Manual steering
Steering gear-to-crossmember bolts:
Stage 1 (“clamping” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Loosen fully, then Stage 2 (“snug” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90º
Steering column adjuster through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Tie-rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 to 6842 to 50
Tie-rod end-to-hub carrier nut* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 3215 to 24
Tie-rod-to-steering rack balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 to 8853 to 65
Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5533 to 41
Intermediate shaft-to-inner column clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Flexible coupling-to-steering gear clamp nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2617 to 19
Column mounting pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5533 to 41
Pinion retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
Slipper plug† . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 53 to 4
*Tighten nut to specified torque and then tighten to next available split pin hole
†Tighten nut to specified torque and then loosen off 60º to 70º
Power steering (where different to manual steering)
Tie-rod to steering rack balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 7752 to 57
Flexible coupling-to-steering gear clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
Intermediate shaft-to-inner column clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
Pinion locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 to 4727 to 35
Slipper plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 to 42 to 3
Pump rear support bar nut and bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Pump mounting bracket-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Pump pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 127 to 9
Fluid hose-to-pinion housing bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2615 to 19
Fluid pressure hose-to-pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 to 3119 to 23
Fluid return hose-to-pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
The front suspension is of independent
MacPherson strut type incorporating coil
springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The lower end of each strut is
attached to a hub carrier, which carries the
wheel hub and bearings, and the brake
assembly. The lower end of each hub carrier
is attached to a suspension lower arm by a
sealed balljoint. The inboard ends of the lower
arms are attached to the front suspension
crossmember and the lower arms thus
provide lateral location for the strut
assemblies. The upper end of each strut is
bolted to a suspension turret on the vehicle
body. An anti-roll bar is mounted to the rear of
the lower arms, and resists the roll tendency
of the front suspension.
On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models,
the rear suspension is also of independent
type, incorporating semi-trailing arms, coil
springs and telescopic shock absorbers. The
semi-trailing arms are attached to the
suspension crossmember at their forward
ends, and to the hub carriers at the rear. Thecoil springs are located between the
semi-trailing arms and the vehicle underbody.
On Saloon and Hatchback models, the shock
absorbers are mounted behind the coil
springs, but on Estate models they are
concentric with the coil springs. On some
Estate models the shock absorbers are of the
self-levelling type. The suspension
crossmember is attached to the vehicle
underbody, and to the final drive unit. Certain
models are fitted with an anti-roll bar which is
mounted to the rear of the final drive unit, and
is attached to the semi-trailing arms by
connecting links.
The rear suspension on P100 models
consists of a beam axle located and
supported by a leaf spring on each side, and
utilizing telescopic shock absorbers to control
vertical movement. The hub and brake
assemblies are attached directly to each side
of the axle. The axle is bolted to the leaf
springs using U-bolts and counterplates, and
the shock absorbers are attached to the
counterplates at their lower ends and the
vehicle underbody at their upper ends.
The steering gear is of the conventional
rack and pinion type located ahead of the
front wheels. Movement of the steering wheelis transmitted to the steering gear by means
of a shaft containing a universal joint. The
front hub carriers are connected to the
steering gear by tie-rods, each having an inner
and outer balljoint. Power-assisted steering is
available on some models, assistance being
provided hydraulically by an engine-driven
pump.
Removal
1Remove the steering gear.
2Support the engine with a jack and
interposed block of wood under the sump.
3Unscrew and remove the engine mounting
nuts from the top of the mountings in the
engine bay (see illustration).
4Raise the engine slightly with the jack, and
ensure that it is safely supported, and just
clear of the engine mounting rubbers.
5Unscrew and remove the nuts, washers and
pivot bolts securing the lower arms to the
crossmember, and pull the arms from the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt heads
face to the rear of the vehicle.
2Front suspension crossmember
-removalandrefitting
1General information
Suspension and steering 11•3
11

7Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the strut upper mounting nut, at the
same time supporting the strut from below.
Use a 6 mm Allen key inserted in the end of
the strut piston rod to prevent the rod from
turning as the upper mounting nut is
unscrewed (see illustration). On some
models, the upper mounting nut may be fitted
with a plastic cover. Note the upper mounting
cup under the nut.
8Withdraw the strut from under the wing of
the vehicle.
Overhaul
9To dismantle the strut, proceed as follows.
10Using spring compressors, compress the
coil spring. Do not attempt to compress the
spring without using purpose-made spring
compressors, as the spring is under
considerable tension, and personal injury may
occur if it is suddenly released (see
illustration).
11Hold the piston rod as described in
paragraph 7, unscrew the nut from the pistonrod and remove the lower cup, bearing, spring
seat, gaiter, coil spring and bump stop (see
illustration).
12Working in the engine compartment,
remove the upper cup and nylon spacer, and
if required prise out the rubber insulator.
13Clean all the components and examine
them for wear and damage. Check the action
of the shock absorber by mounting it vertically
in a vice and operating the piston rod several
times through its full stroke. If any uneven
resistance is evident, the shock absorber
must be renewed. Renew any worn or
damaged components as applicable.
Refitting
14Reassembly and refitting is a reversal of
dismantling and removal, bearing in mind the
following points.
15When reassembling, ensure that the gaiter
is fitted over the bump stop, and that the ends
of the coil spring are correctly located on the
spring seats. Also ensure that the bearing is
correctly located on the upper spring seat.
16Fit the nylon spacer over the piston rod
before fitting the strut to the top mounting.
17Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
18On P100 models align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or suspend it with wire
from the coil spring to avoid straining the hose.
4Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, and on Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate models, remove the
retaining screw or spire washer(s), as
applicable, and remove the disc. On P100
models, unscrew the five retaining nuts and
remove the wheel adapter plate and disc.
5Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and unplug the
wiring connector. Place the sensor to one side.
6Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut securing the tie-rod end to the
hub carrier. Using a balljoint separator tool,
disconnect the tie-rod end from the hub carrier.
7Repeat the procedure given in the previous
paragraph for the lower arm-to-hub carrier
balljoint.
8Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut (see
illustration). Using a suitable lever, such as a
cold chisel, lever the hub carrier clamp legs
and wedge them apart. Withdraw the hub
carrier from the strut.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new split pins on the castellated nuts, and
align the previously made marks on the brake
disc and hub. Tighten all fixings to the
specified torque.
10On P100 models align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.
5Front hub carrier -removaland
refitting
Suspension and steering 11•5
11
5.8 Unscrewing the hub carrier-to-strut
pinch-bolt
4.11 Cross-section of the front strut upper mounting
A Bearing
B Nylon spacer
C Upper cupD Rubber insulator
E Lower cup
F Spring seatG Bump stop
H Gaiter
4.10 Suspension strut fitted with spring
compressors
4.7 Hold the strut piston rod with a 6 mm
Allen key when unscrewing the upper
mounting nut

1Remove the hub carrier.
2Reverse the roadwheel nuts and screw
them fully onto the studs to protect the
threads, then mount the hub carrier assembly
in a vice as shown (see illustration).
3Prise the dust cap from the rear of the hub
carrier, and unscrew the hub nut with a
suitable socket. Note that on all models
manufactured before late December 1982,
both left and right-hand nuts have a
right-hand thread, but as from this date,
left-hand thread assemblies were
progressively fitted to the right-hand hub
carrier. The modified right-hand hub can be
identified by the letter “R” stamped on its
outer face, or by the colour of the hub nut
nylon insert, blue indicates a normal
right-hand thread, and yellow indicates a
left-hand thread.
4Remove the splined washer, and tap the
hub carrier from the drive flange. Recover the
bearing inner race and rollers from the inner
end of the hub carrier (see illustration).
5Prise the oil seal from the outer end of the
hub carrier and remove the remaining bearing
inner race and rollers.
6Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.
7Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
8Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
9Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub camber.
10Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note that onearly models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this early type of seal should be replaced
with the later type which has a metal casing.
The oil seal should be renewed regardless of
type, and a new seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel bearings.
11With the drive flange mounted in a vice, as
during dismantling, tap the hub carrier onto
the drive flange.
12Fit the inner bearing assembly, tapping it
into place with a metal tube of suitable
diameter if necessary, and fit the splined
washer. Note that the bearings are self-setting
on assembly, and no subsequent adjustment
is required.
13Refit the hub nut and tighten it to the
specified torque.
14Tap the dust cap into position in the hub
carrier.
15Remove the assembly from the vice,
remove the roadwheel nuts, and refit the hub
carrier.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.2Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
underbody (see illustrations).
3Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts and recover the dished washers
and plastic covers, where applicable (see
illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing one of the lower arms to
the crossmember, and pull the end of the
lower arm from the crossmember.
6Pull the anti-roll bar from the bush in the
“free” lower arm then slide the anti-roll bar
from the remaining fixed lower arm. Recover
the remaining dished washers and plastic
covers (where applicable) from the ends of the
anti-roll bar.
7If necessary, the anti-roll bar compliance
bushes can be renewed as described in
Section 8, and the anti-roll bar U-clamp
bushes can be renewed by sliding them off
the ends of the bar. Note that although the
U-clamp bushes are of a split design, they
should not be levered open to aid fitting, and
the new bushes must be slid on from the ends
of the anti-roll bar. The bushes should always
be renewed in pairs.
7Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
6Front wheel bearings - renewal
11•6Suspension and steering
6.2 Front hub carrier mounted in vice to
unscrew hub nut
7.2b . . . unscrew the bolts and remove the
anti-roll bar U-clamps7.2a Bend back the locktabs (arrowed) . . .
6.4 Front hub components
A Dust cap
B Hub nutC Splined washer
D Taper roller bearingE Bearing outer race
F Hub carrierG Oil seal
H Drive flange

pivot pin. Take care not to lose the
components (see illustration).
5Remove the brake cable sheaths from their
brackets on the vehicle underbody.
6Unscrew the brake pipes from the brake
hoses at the brackets on the vehicle
underbody. Plug the ends of the pipes and
hoses to prevent leakage and dirt ingress,
then detach the hoses from the brackets by
removing the U-shaped retaining clips (see
illustration).
7Where applicable, disconnect the ABS
sensors, and detach the leads from the clips
on the lower arms.
8Place suitable blocks beneath the rear
wheels, then lower the vehicle so that the rear
coil springs are lightly loaded. Reposition the
axle stands under the side members.
9Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
10Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the two anti-roll bar mountings from the
underbody.
11Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing each of the front guide plates to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tabs on the larger bolts.
12Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the final drive unit rear mounting to
the underbody. Note the location and number
of any shims which may be fitted (see
illustration).
13Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
disconnect the shock absorber upper
mountings. On Saloon and Hatchbackmodels, access is gained by removing the
trim covers behind the side cushions. Each
cover is secured by two self-tapping screws,
and the shock absorber is secured by a bolt
and nut. On Estate models, fold down the rear
seat backrest, fold back the floor covering
and remove the front section of the luggage
compartment floor, which is secured with 12
self-tapping screws. Remove the nut and
washer from the shock absorber.
14Using a jack and a wooden beam
positioned beneath the longitudinal
underbody side members, raise the rear of the
vehicle until the rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly can be withdrawn from
under the vehicle.
15If desired, the assembly can be
dismantled with reference to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter and Chapter 9.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolts by bending up the
lockwasher tabs.
18Ensure that the coil springs are located
correctly on their seats on the vehicle
underbody.
19When refitting the final drive rear mounting
to the underbody, refit any shims in their original
noted positions, and fit the bolts with reference
to the note at the beginning of this Section.
20Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
21On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake. With the vehicle level,
check the final drive unit oil level.
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Remove the relevant driveshaft.
3Remove the handbrake cable from the clip
on the lower arm.
4Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm. Plug the
ends of the pipe and hose to prevent leakage
and dirt ingress, then detach the hose from
the bracket by removing the U-shaped
retaining clip (see illustration).
5Unscrew the brake pipe from the wheel
cylinder on the brake backplate and plug the
end of the pipe and the cylinder to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
6Unscrew the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the lower arm and tie the
backplate to one side.
7Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
8Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
9Remove the shock absorber.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tab(s) on the larger bolt.
11Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring and rubber cup.
12Note the orientation of the two lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
then unscrew and remove them and withdraw
the lower arm from under the vehicle (see
illustration).
13If the lower arm is to be renewed, unclip
the brake pipe, and refit to the new arm.
14If required, the pivot bushes may be
renewed using a long bolt, nut, washers and a
suitable metal tube. Lubricate the new bushes
with soapy water before fitting.
11Rear suspension lower arm
(Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) -removaland
refitting
11•8Suspension and steering
10.4 Handbrake equaliser-to-operating rod
circlip and pivot pin (arrowed)10.11 Rear suspension front guide plate -
lockwasher arrowed
11.4 Brake pipe bracket on lower arm. U-
shaped retaining clip arrowed10.12 Final drive unit-to-underbody rear
mounting
10.6 Rear underbody brake pipe bracket -
U-shaped hose retaining clip arrowed

3With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting bolt and nut. Withdraw
the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts securely.
Estate models
Note: On models fitted with heavy duty
Nivomat shock absorbers, follow the
procedure given in Section 13, as the shock
absorber and coil spring are an integrated unit.
5With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to unscrew
and remove the two shock absorber lower
mounting bolts from the relevant lower arm(see
illustration).If desired, the rear of the vehicle
can be raised on ramps to improve access.
6Working inside the rear of the vehicle, fold
down the rear seat backrest, fold back the
floor covering and remove the front section of
the luggage compartment floor, which is
secured with 12 self-tapping screws.
7With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting nut and washer (see
illustration). Withdraw the shock absorber
from under the vehicle.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts and nut securely.
P100 models
9With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting nut, washer, and rubber
insulator. If desired, the rear of the vehicle can
be raised on ramps to improve access.10Unscrew and remove the top mounting
bolt, nut and washer from the chassis
crossmember. Withdraw the shock absorber
upwards.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolt and nut securely.
Models with rear drum brakes
1Remove the relevant driveshaft.
2Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the vehicle underbody.
Plug the ends of the pipe and hose to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
3Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
4Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
5On Saloon and Hatchback models, unscrew
and remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and nut from the lower arm.
6On Estate models fitted with standard
shock absorbers, remove the shock absorber
as described in Section 12. On Estate models
fitted with heavy duty Nivomat shock
absorbers, disconnect the upper and lower
mountings.
7Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.8Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring, or coil spring/heavy duty shock
absorber as applicable, and the rubber cup.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
11Refit the driveshaft.
12On completion, bleed the brakes.
Models with rear disc brakes
13Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
14Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid straining
the joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
15Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 8
inclusive.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal. Where
applicable, secure the larger front guide plate
bolt by bending up the lockwasher tab(s), and
on completion, bleed the brakes.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
With rear drum brakes
Note: There are two types of bolts used to
secure the rear hub carrier to the lower arm
(see illustration). The two types of bolt must
not be mixed on a vehicle, but can be changed
in complete sets for the alternative type. A
complete set is eight bolts, four each side.
Note that the two types of bolt have different
torque wrench settings. When renewing the
wheel bearings a suitable puller will be
required to remove the drive flange, and a new
rear hub nut must be used on reassembly.
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. On early models, relieve
the staking before loosening the nut (see
illustration). Later models use self-locking
14Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
13Rear coil spring (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
11•10Suspension and steering
12.5 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolts - Estate models
14.1a Alternative types of rear hub carrier-
to-lower arm securing bolts12.7 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
(arrowed) - Estate models
12.2b . . . for access to the rear shock
absorber upper mounting
14.1b On early models relieve the staking
(arrowed) on the rear hub nut

nuts, and it is important to note that where
this type of nut is fitted, the left-hand nut has
a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the side
concerned, chock the front wheels, and jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Remove the rear roadwheel.
3Remove the brake drum retaining spire
washer(s) from the wheel stud(s) and remove
the brake drum. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before removing the brake drum,
otherwise the drum will be held in place by the
clamping action of the brake shoes.
4Remove the two nylon fasteners, and
remove the plastic shield from the rear of the
brake backplate (see illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut.
6Using a suitable puller, pull the drive flange
from the end of the driveshaft (see
illustration).
7Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the hub carrier and brake backplate
to the lower arm (see illustration). Remove
the hub carrier, whilst supporting the
driveshaft. Support the driveshaft by placing
axle stands underneath it, or by securing with
string to the underbody. Note that the
driveshaft joints should not be allowed to
deflect through an angle exceeding 13º.
8Refit the brake backplate with the four
securing bolts to avoid straining the brake
pipe.
9With the hub carrier removed, the bearings
can be renewed as follows (see illustration).
10Prise the inner and outer oil seals from the
hub carrier using a suitable screwdriver, and
withdraw the taper roller bearings.
11Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.12Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
13Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
14Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub carrier.
15Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note than on
early models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this type of seal should be replaced with
the later type which has a metal casing. The
oil seal should be renewed regardless of type,
and a new oil seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel
bearings.
16Repeat the procedure shown in
paragraphs 14 and 15 for the outer bearing
and oil seal.17Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then remove
the securing bolts from the brake backplate,
and using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the driveshaft.
18Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
19Refit the hub carrier/brake
backplate-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
20Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel. If a staked type nut is
used, lock the nut by staking its outer ring into
the groove in the driveshaft.
With rear disc brakes
Note: See note.at the beginning of this Section
21Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
Suspension and steering 11•11
11
14.6 Pull the drive flange from the end of
the driveshaft
14.9 Rear hub carrier components - Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearingC Hub carrier
D Inner bearingE Inner oil seal14.7 Rear hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm securing
bolts
14.4 Remove the nylon fasteners (arrowed)
to free the plastic shield from the brake
backplate

22Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, and
jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel and
release the handbrake.
23Unbolt the brake caliper carrier bracket
and support the caliper on an axle stand,
taking care not to strain the flexible hose.
24Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the disc.
25Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller, pull off the drive flange.
26Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
27With the hub carrier removed, the
bearings can be renewed as described in
paragraphs 10 to 16 of this Section.
28Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then using a
soft-faced mallet, drive the drive flange/hub
carrier assembly onto the end of the stub axle.
Do not forget to fit the splash shield.
29Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
30Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
31When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
32Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel.
P100 models
Note: A new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
33Remove the relevant driveshaft.
34Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and an extension
bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the nut is
extremely tight.
35Pull off the hub, and remove the O-ring
and spacer sleeve from the recess in the hub
(see illustration).
36Prise the oil seal from the rear of the hub
using a screwdriver.
37Using a block of wood, or a suitable metal
tube inserted from the rear of the hub, tap out
the ball-bearing.
38Clean the hub with paraffin, wipe dry and
examine for damage and wear.
39Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
resting on the bearing outer race only, tap the
new bearing into the hub. Ensure that the
bearing is correctly seated.
40Carefully fit a new oil seal to the rear of the
hub, using a suitable metal tube.41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Fit a new rear hub nut, and stake in
position after tightening to the specified
torque.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the relevant front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.
3Using a length of wood, lever the
suspension crossmember downwards a few
inches from the underbody, and insert the
wood as a wedge.
4Using a tool similar to the Ford special tool
shown (see illustration), or a long bolt with
nut, washers and a suitable metal tube, pull
the mounting rubber from the crossmember.
5Lubricate the new mounting rubber with
soapy water, and use the tool described in the
previous paragraph to press the rubber into
the crossmember.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).Note: From May 1986, revised rear
suspension/final drive unit rear mounting bolts
have been used in production. Whenever the
earlier type of bolts are removed, they should
be discarded and the later type fitted. The
earlier bolts are coloured blue, and the later
type bolts are coloured gold.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
3Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the mounting to the underbody. Note
the location and number of any shims which
may be fitted.
4Lower the final drive unit sufficiently to
enable the mounting to be unbolted from the
final drive unit rear cover (see illustration).
16Rear suspension/final drive
unit rear mounting (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal
15Rear suspension front
mounting (Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models) - renewal
11•12Suspension and steering
15.4 Ford special tool 15-014 for removing
rear suspension front mounting rubber
14.35 Rear hub components - P100 models
A Oil seal
B Hub
C Ball-bearingD Hub nut
E Spacer sleeve
F O-ring
16.4 Rear suspension/final drive unit rear
mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts

5Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
Section. Refit any shims in their original noted
positions, and tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
Removal
1Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts, chock the
front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle
and support on axle stands placed under the
side members.
2Prise off the straps which connect the
anti-roll bar to the suspension lower arms
(see illustration).
3Unbolt the two securing brackets from the
underbody, and remove the anti-roll bar (see
illustration).
4The connecting straps can be prised from
the ends of the anti-roll bar, and the
underbody mounting brackets and rubbers,
which are of a split design, can be pulled off.
5When fitting new mounting components,
lubricate the rubber parts with soapy water to
ease assembly.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the anti-roll bar-to-underbody securing bolts
to the specified torque.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.2Support the rear axle with a jack, using an
interposed block of wood to spread the load.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Remove the securing circlip and the pivot
pin, and detach the handbrake equaliser from
the linkage on the underbody.
5Remove the handbrake cables from the
clips on the underbody, and from the brackets
on the crossmember. To remove the cables
from the crossmember, remove the U-shaped
retaining clips. Note that the cable adjuster is
secured to the right-hand crossmember
bracket. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before attempting to disconnect any
part of the mechanism.
6Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose on the right-hand side of the chassis
crossmember. Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the crossmember by
removing the U-shaped retaining clip (see
illustration).
7Remove the spring clip and clevis pin and
disconnect the spring from the brake load
apportioning valve lever on the right-hand
side of the underbody (see illustration).
8Detach the exhaust system from the two
rear mountings.
9Unbolt the shock absorbers from the
chassis crossmember.
10Unbolt the leaf springs from the front
brackets on the underbody, (Section 19).
11Lower the rear axle.
12Loosen the spring shackle-to-underbody
bolts, then unbolt the leaf springs from the
spring shackles, and remove the rear
suspension and axle assembly from under thevehicle, guiding the handbrake cables over
the exhaust system.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
14Do not fully tighten the leaf spring
mounting bolts or the spring
shackle-to-underbody bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is resting on the roadwheels.
15Renew all self-locking nuts and spring
washers.
16On completion, check the brake load
apportioning valve adjustment and the
handbrake adjustment. Bleed the rear brake
circuit and check the axle oil level.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.
2Support the relevant side of the rear axle
with a jack, using an interposed block of
wood under the axle tube to spread the load.
3Unscrew the nuts, and remove the two
U-bolts on each side of the vehicle which
secure the axle to the leaf springs (see
illustration). Note that there is no need to
19Rear suspension leaf spring
(P100 models) - removal and
refitting
18Rear suspension and axle
assembly (P100 models) -
removal and refitting
17Rear anti-roll bar (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•13
11
17.3 Anti-roll bar-to-underbody securing
bracket
18.7 Remove the split pin (arrowed) from
the brake load apportioning valve lever
18.6 Brake pipe-to-hose connection on
right-hand side of chassis crossmember -
P100 models
1 Brake pipe
2 U-shaped clip3 Brake hose
17.2 Anti-roll bar-to-lower arm connecting
strap
19.3 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) from the
rear axle-to-leaf spring U-bolts

Refitting
3When refitting the fluid hoses, use new
O-rings, and take care not to overtighten the
unions. Note that with the unions fully
tightened it is still possible to rotate and move
the hoses.
4On completion of refitting, bleed the power
steering fluid circuit (Section 34).
Note: New power steering fluid hose O-rings
will be required when refitting.
All engines except 1.8 litre (R6A)
CVH and 2.0 litre DOHC
1Place a suitable container under the power
steering pump, unscrew the fluid hose unions,
and drain the fluid. Ensure that fluid is not
allowed to spill onto the alternator.
2Remove the drivebelts and unbolt the
power steering pump pulley if necessary to
ease removal.
3Unbolt the rear support bar from the pump
and the engine block (see illustration).
4Unbolt the pump from its mounting bracket,
and withdraw the pump from the engine.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the
following points.
6Tension the drivebelts correctly.
7When refitting the fluid hoses, use new
O-rings, and take care not to overtighten the
unions. 8On completion of refitting, bleed the power
steering fluid circuit.
1.8 litre (R6A) CVH engine
9The removal and refitting procedures are
basically the same as described below for the
2.0 litre DOHC engine, except that the pump
is mounted on a bracket above the alternator
on the front left-hand side of the engine.
2.0 litre DOHC engine
10The pump is mounted on a bracket on the
front right-hand side of the cylinder block.
11Place a suitable container under the
pump, unscrew the fluid pipe unions, and
drain the fluid.
12Remove the drivebelt which also drives
the coolant pump and alternator.
13Prevent the pulley from rotating using a
strap wrench (which can be improvised using
an old drivebelt and a large socket and
wrench), and unscrew the three pulley
securing bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
14Unscrew the three pump securing bolts
from the front of the pump bracket, and the
single bolt from the rear of the bracket, and
withdraw the pump (see illustrations).
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Reconnect the fluid unions using new O-
rings.
17On completion, bleed the power steering
fluid circuit.
Note: New fluid hose O-rings will be required
when refitting.
Removal
1Clean around the hose unions on the
steering gear. Place a suitable container
beneath the steering gear, then remove the
single bolt securing the hoses to the pinion
housing, unscrew the hose unions and drain
the power steering fluid.
2Clean around the hose unions on the pump.
Place a suitable container beneath the pump,
unscrew the hose unions, and drain any
remaining fluid. Ensure that no fluid is allowed
to spill onto the alternator.3If the hoses are to be left disconnected for a
long period of time, plug the ends of the
hoses and the apertures in the steering gear
and pump, or cover them with masking tape
to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting
4Refit in reverse order using new O-rings.
5On completion top-up the fluid and bleed
the system.
1Unscrew the filler cap from the power
steering pump reservoir and top-up the fluid
level to the maximum mark using the specified
fluid.
2Disconnect the low tension negative lead
from the ignition coil and crank the engine
several times for two second periods while
slowly turning the steering wheel from
lock-to-lock. Top-up the fluid level if
necessary and continue cranking the engine
until the fluid is free of air bubbles.
3Reconnect the coil lead and start the
engine. Check the system for leaks.
4Switch off the engine and refit the filler cap.
5Drive the vehicle for a few miles to warm up
the fluid and expel any remaining air, then
stop the engine and make a final fluid level
check.
1Remove the tie-rod end.
2Unscrew and remove the tie-rod end
locknut from the tie-rod.
3Remove the clips and slide the gaiter from
the tie-rod and steering gear.
4Slide the new gaiter over the tie-rod and
onto the steering gear. Where applicable,
make sure that the gaiter seats in the cut-outs
in the tie-rod and steering gear.
5Secure the gaiter with new clips.
6Refit the tie-rod end locknut to the tie-rod.
7Refit the tie-rod end.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands.
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Make alignment marks on the tie-rod and
tie-rod end, then loosen the locknut by a
quarter of a turn.
33Tie-rod end - removal and
refitting
32Steering gear rubber gaiter -
renewal
31Power steering fluid circuit
- bleeding
30Power steering fluid hoses
- removal and refitting
29Power steering pump
- removal and refitting
11•18Suspension and steering
29.3 Power steering pump rear support bar
bolts (arrowed)
29.14b Power steering pump rear securing
bolt29.14a Unbolt the power steering pump
pulley for access to the front pump
securing bolts (arrowed)