tow FORD SIERRA 1988 2.G Engine Electrical Systems Workshop Manual

Removal
1Disconnect the battery leads.
2Disconnect the multi-plug, or disconnect
the wires from their terminals on the rear of
the alternator, noting their locations (as
applicable), then slacken the mounting and
adjustment bolts and tilt the alternator
towards the engine (see illustrations).
3Remove the drivebelt(s) from the alternator
pulley(s).
4Remove the mounting and adjustment nuts
and bolts, and withdraw the alternator from
the engine.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the
following points.
6To avoid breakage of the alternator
mounting bracket lugs, it is important that the
following procedure is adhered to when
refitting the mounting bolts.
7Always refit the large flat washer (A) (see
illustration).
8Earlier models (before 1985) also have a
small washer (B) which must be fitted between
the sliding bush and the mounting bracket.
9Ensure that the bushes and bolts are
assembled as shown - except on 2.0 litre
DOHC models where a through-bolt is used,
then tension the drivebelt(s) and tighten the
mounting and adjustment bolts as shown in
the relevant illustration in Chapter 3.Refer to Chapter 1, Section 21.
Note: To carry out the complete test procedure
use only the following test equipment - a 0 to
20 volt moving coil voltmeter, a 0 to 100 amp
moving coil ammeter, and a rheostat rated at
30 amps.
1Check that the battery is at least 70%
charged by using a hydrometer.
2Check the drivebelt tension.
3Check the security of the battery leads,
alternator multi-plug, and interconnecting wire.
Cable continuity check
4Pull the multi-plug from the alternator and
switch on the ignition, being careful not to crank
the engine. Connect the voltmeter between a
good earth and each of the terminals in the
multi-plug in turn. If battery voltage is not
indicated, there is an open circuit in the wiring
which may be due to a blown ignition warning
light bulb if on the small terminal.
Alternator output check
5Connect the voltmeter, ammeter and
rheostat as shown (see illustration).Run the
engine at 3000 rpm and switch on the
headlamps, heater blower and, where fitted,
the heated rear window. Vary the resistanceto increase the current and check that the
alternator rated output is reached without the
voltage dropping below 13 volts.
Charging circuit positive side
check
6Connect the voltmeter as shown (see
illustration).Start the engine and switch on
the headlamps. Run the engine at 3000 rpm
and check that the indicated voltage drop
does not exceed 0.5 volt. A higher reading
indicates a high resistance such as a dirty
connection on the positive side of the
charging circuit.
Charging circuit negative side
check
7Connect the voltmeter as shown (see
illustration).Start the engine and switch on
the headlamps. Run the engine at 3000 rpm
and check that the indicated voltage drop
does not exceed 0.25 volt. A higher reading
indicates a high resistance such as a dirty
connection on the negative side of the
charging circuit.
Voltage regulator check
8Connect the voltmeter and ammeter as
shown(see illustration).Run the engine at
3000 rpm and when the ammeter records a
current of 3 to 5 amps check that the voltmeter
records 13.7 to 14.15 volts. If the result is
outside the limits the regulator is faulty.
6Alternator - testing
5Alternator drivebelt(s) - checking,
renewal and tensioning4Alternator - removal and
refitting
5•6Engine electrical systems
4.2a Disconnecting the multi-plug from a
Bosch alternator4.7 Alternator mounting bracket
arrangement
A Large flat washer
B Small flat washer (models up to 1985 only)
C Mounting bracket (engine)
D Mounting lugs (alternator)
6.7 Alternator negative check circuit6.6 Alternator positive check circuit6.5 Alternator output test circuit
4.2b Removing the insulating cap from the
main wiring terminal on a Lucas A127
alternator (CVH model)

8Connect the voltmeter between the battery
positive terminal and the terminal on the
starter motor. With the coil low tension lead
disconnected operate the starter for two or
three seconds. Battery voltage should be
indicated initially, then dropping to less than 1
volt. If the reading is more than 1 volt, there is
a high resistance in the wiring from the battery
to the starter and the check in paragraph 9
should be made. If the reading is less than 1
volt proceed to paragraph 10.
9Connect the voltmeter between the two
main solenoid terminals and operate the
starter for two or three seconds. Battery
voltage should be indicated initially, then
dropping to less than 0.5 volt. If the reading is
more than 0.5 volt, the ignition switch and
connections may be faulty.
10Connect the voltmeter between the
battery negative terminal and the starter
motor body, and operate the starter for two or
three seconds. A reading of less than 0.5 volt
should be recorded. If the reading is more
than 0.5 volt, there is a fault in the earth
circuit, and the earth connections to the
battery and body should be checked.
Bosch long frame and JF, and
Cajavec types
1With the starter motor removed from the
vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice
fitted with soft jaw protectors.
2Remove the two screws securing the
commutator end housing cap, then remove
the cap and rubber seal (see illustration).
3Wipe any grease from the armature shaft,
and remove the C-clip, or E-clip, as
applicable, and shims from the end of the
shaft (see illustrations).
4Unscrew the two nuts and remove the
washers, or remove the securing screws (as
applicable), then lift off the commutator end
housing (see illustrations).
5Carefully prise the thrust retaining springs
from their locations, then slide the brushes
from the brush plate.
6If the brushes have worn to less than the
specified minimum, renew them as a set. Torenew the brushes, cut the leads at their
midpoint and make a good soldered joint
when connecting the new brushes.
7The commutator face should be clean and
free from burnt spots. Where necessary
burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and
wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth.
8On starter motors where the commutator
end housing is secured by nuts and washers,
position the brush plate over the end of the
armature, with the cut-outs in the brush plate
aligned with the end housing securing studs.
9On starter motors where the commutator
end housing is secured by screws, position
the brush plate over the end of the armature
with the cut-outs in the brush plate aligned
with the loops in the field windings (see
illustration). The brush plate will be positively
located when the commutator end housing
screws are fitted.
10Position the brushes in their respective
locations in the brush plate, and fit the brush
retaining springs.
11Guide the commutator end housing into
position, at the same time sliding the rubber
insulator into the cut-out in the housing.
Secure the commutator end housing with the
nuts and washers or screws, as applicable.
12Fit sufficient shims to the end of the
armature shaft to eliminate endfloat when the
C-clip or E-clip, as applicable is fitted, then fit
the clip.
13Fit the armature shaft bearing seal to the
commutator end housing, then apply a little
lithium-based grease to the end of the
armature shaft and refit the end housing cap,
securing with the two screws.Bosch short frame, EV and EF
types
14To remove and refit the brush assembly,
proceed as for the Bosch long frame except
for the following(see illustration):
15Release the brush holders complete with
brushes by pushing the brush holders
towards the commutator and unclipping them
from the brush plate. Withdraw the brush
plate.
16To renew the brushes, the leads must be
unsoldered from the terminals on the brush
plate, and the leads of the new brushes must
be soldered to the terminals.
17To refit the brush assembly, position the
brush plate over the end of the armature shaft,
then assemble the brush holders, brushes and
springs, ensuring that the brush holder clips
are securely located. The brush plate will be
10Starter motor - brush renewal
Engine electrical systems 5•9
5
10.3b . . . and shims from the end of the
armature shaft - Bosch long frame starter
motor
10.9 Align the cut-outs in the brush plate
(B) with the loops in the field windings (A) -
Bosch long frame starter motor10.4b Commutator end housing removed
to expose brush plate - Bosch long frame
starter motor10.4a Remove the commutator end
housing securing screws - Bosch long
frame starter motor
10.3a Remove the C-clip . . .10.2 Remove the commutator end housing
cap securing screws - Bosch long frame
starter motor

10The distributor cap (except on 1.6 and 1.8
litre CVH (R6A type) engines) and the HT
leads should be cleaned and checked at the
specified intervals. To test the HT leads,
remove them together with the distributor
cap, then connect an ohmmeter to the end of
each lead and its appropriate terminal within
the cap in turn (see illustration). If the
resistance of any lead is greater than the
maximum given in the Specifications, check
that the lead connection in the cap is good
before renewing the lead.
Refitting
11Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight and
that the plug exterior surfaces are clean. As
the plugs incorporate taper seats also make
sure that the threads and seats are clean.
12On DOHC models before refitting thespark plugs, coat their threads with suitable
antiseize compound, taking care not to
contaminate the electrodes.
13Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then
tighten them to the specified torque. Do not
exceed the torque figure.
14Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, and where applicable refit the air
cleaner and/or inlet hose.Testing
All models except 1.6 and 1.8 litre
CVH (R6A type)
1The coil is located on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment and is retained by a
metal strap (see illustration). It is of high
output type and the HT tower should be kept
clean at all times to prevent possible arcing.
Bosch and Femsa coils are fitted with
protective plastic covers and Polmot coils are
fitted with an internal fusible link.
2To ensure that the correct HT polarity at the
spark plugs, the LT coil leads must always be
connected correctly. The black lead must
always be connected to the terminal marked +
115, and the green lead to the terminal
marked /1. Incorrect connections can cause
poor starting, misfiring, and short spark plug
life.
3To test the coil first disconnect the LT and
HT leads. Connect an ohmmeter betweenboth LT terminals and check that the primary
winding resistance is as given in the
Specifications. Connect the ohmmeter
between the HT terminal and either LT
terminal and check that the secondary
winding resistance is as given in the
Specifications. If either winding resistance is
not as specified, the coil should be renewed.
Reconnect the LT and HT leads on
completion.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH
models
4The coil fitted to these models is located
towards the front right-hand side of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
5Testing of the coil should be entrusted to a
Ford dealer or a suitable specialist.
Removal
All models except 1.6 and 1.8 litre
CVH (R6A type)
6Disconnect the battery negative lead,
7Disconnect the LT and HT leads from the
coil (see illustration).
8Remove the securing screw(s) and detach
the coil and strap assembly from the body
panel. Note that on models with the ESC
system, the coil strap is secured by the top
ESC module securing screw. On certain
models with the ESC II or EEC IV systems, an
“octane adjustment” service lead may be
connected to one of the coil securing screws.
On 2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injected models, the
coil/ignition module heat shield must be
removed for access to the coil securing bolts.
The heat shield is secured by two screws.
Note that on certain models, an earthing lead
12Coil - testing, removal and
refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•13
5
11.10 Method of testing an HT lead with an
ohmmeter
12.4 Ignition coil (A) and suppressor (B)
viewed from under vehicle (shroud removed)12.7 Disconnecting the HT lead from the
coil
12.1 Ignition coil - CVH model. Plastic
cover arrowed
11.9c Adjusting a spark plug gap using a
special tool11.9b Measuring a spark plug gap using a
wire gauge

Vehicle speed sensor
1.6 and 1.8 litre CVH (R6A type) and
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection models
27The sensor is located in the left-hand side
of the gearbox/transmission.
28Disconnect the battery negative lead.
29Jack up the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”).
30Detach the sensor wiring connector from
its bracket, and separate the two halves of the
connector.
31Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the wiring connector bracket, noting its
orientation.
32Withdraw the sensor from the
gearbox/transmission casing (see
illustration).
33Before refitting the sensor, examine the
O-ring, and renew if damaged or worn.
34Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the wiring connector bracket is correctly
located.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor
1.6 and 1.8 litre CVH (R6A type) and
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection models
35The sensor is located at the rear right-
hand side of the engine compartment (see
illustration).
36Disconnect the battery negative lead.
37Remove the two screws securing the
sensor to the body panel, and carefully
withdraw the sensor, taking care not to strainthe wiring.
38Disconnect the wiring plug from the
sensor, pulling on the plug, not the wiring,
then disconnect the vacuum hose and remove
the sensor.
39Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel temperature sensor -
removal and refitting
2.0 litre DOHC fuel injection models
40The sensor is located in the top of the fuel
rail.
41Disconnect the battery negative lead, and
to improve access, disconnect the wiring plug
from the air charge temperature sensor (in the
inlet manifold). Disconnect the sensor wiring
plug by pulling on the plug, not the wiring.
42Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor
wiring plug, again pulling on the plug (see
illustration).
43Unscrew the sensor from the fuel rail, and
remove it.
44Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the torque setting for the sensor.
Spark delay and sustain valves
1Disconnect the vacuum pipes at the valve
and withdraw the valve.
2When refitting a spark delay valve, the valve
must be positioned with the black end
(marked “CARB”) towards the carburettor and
the coloured end (marked “DIST”) towards the
distributor or electronic module (as
applicable).
3When refitting a spark sustain valve, the
valve must be positioned with the end marked
“VAC” towards the carburettor and the side
marked “DIST” towards the distributor or
electronic module (as applicable).
Ported vacuum switch
4Where fitted, the switch(es) may be located
in the inlet manifold and/or in an adapter fitted
in one of the coolant hoses.
5To remove a switch, partially drain the
cooling system. Note that there is no need to
remove the cylinder block drain plug.
6Mark the vacuum pipes for location so that
they can be refitted in their correct positions,
then disconnect the pipes from the switch.
7Unscrew the valve from its location.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the vacuum pipes are correctly
connected. Refill the cooling system.
Fuel trap
9Disconnect the vacuum pipes at the fuel
trap and withdraw the fuel trap.
10When refitting, the fuel trap must be
positioned with the black end (marked
“CARB”) towards the carburettor, and the
white side (marked “DIST”) towards the
distributor, electronic module, or ported
vacuum switch (as applicable) (see
illustration).
Spark control system additional
components
11According to model, engine and
equipment, additional components such as
one-way valves or solenoids may also be
fitted as part of the spark control system.
12The removal and refitting procedures for
these components are basically as described
previously, and provided that all attachments
are marked for position prior to removal, no
problems should be encountered.
22Spark control system
components (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
5•24Engine electrical systems
21.24 Disconnecting the air charge
temperature sensor wiring plug21.35 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor location
22.10 Fuel trap vacuum connection
markings21.42 Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug
21.32 Withdrawing the vehicle speed
sensor from the gearbox casing