light FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G Introduction Workshop Manual

0•5Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Specia hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•9Roadside repairs
When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:
4Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
4Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.
4Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
4If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.
4Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
1The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
2The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).
3The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
batteryConnect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery
Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
123
4
Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.5
Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.6
Jump starting

Coolant level Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
0•12
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
withdraw it again.
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck
until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level
mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
as it will go until it is secure.
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion
tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at
the “MAX” mark. When the engine is hot, the
level may rise slightly above this mark.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark.
Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the
oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).
On some models, the dipstick is brightly
coloured for easy identification. Refer to
the photos on pages 0•10 and 0•11 for the
exact location for each engine type12
3
123
4
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.Car Care
lWith a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
Weekly checks

Warning:Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.
Safety first
lIf the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
lIf a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.
lOn ABS models, switch the ignition off and
pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until
the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch
on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be
heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then
switch off the ignition.
Brake fluid level
0•13
Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
surrounding paintwork. Use only the
specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types
of fluid can cause damage to the system. After
filling to the correct level, refit the cap
securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of
foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to
inspect the reservoir. The system should
be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid
(see Chapter 9 for details).
The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are
indicated on the side of the reservoir. The
fluid level must be kept between the marks.
Disconnect the wiring plug (arrowed) before
removing the cap.1If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag
before removing the cap.2
34
Screen washer fluid level
Some models have a visible reservoir,
whilst others have only the filler nozzle
(arrowed) showing. Either way, the location is
in the same place.Top-up the washer reservoir using a
propietary screen wash.On models with only the filler tube fitted,
a dipstick is fitted to show the quantity of
fluid left in the reservoir
Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in coldweather - which is when you are likely to need
it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and willfreeze during cold weather. On no account use
engine antifreeze in the washer system - this
could discolour or damage paintwork.
123
• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
• The fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir will
drop slightly as the brake pads wear
down, but the fluid level must never be
allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.
Weekly checks

0•14
Before you start:
4Park the vehicle on level ground.
4Set the steering wheel pointing straight-
ahead.
4The system should be at operating
temperature and the engine should be
turned off.
Safety First:
lThe need for frequent topping-up indicates
a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.
Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of
the specified typeIf the level is checked
cold, use the “MIN” or “FULL COLD” mark.
Recheck the level at operating temperature.
The fluid level should be up to the
“MAX” or upper “HOT” markThe power steering fluid reservoir is
located next to the coolant expansion
tank. Clean around the filler cap and then
remove it should topping up be required.123
For the check to be accurate
the steering must not be
turned once the engine has
been stopped.
Power steering fluid level
Weekly checks
Electrical system
To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out.
Fit a new fuse of the same rating,
available from car accessory shops.
It is important that you find the reason that the
fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in
Chapter 13.If more than one indicator light or
headlight has failed it is likely that either a
fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the
circuit (refer to“Electrical fault-finding”in
Chapter 13).
The fuses are mounted in a box in the engine
compartment on the right-hand side of the
bulkhead. Remove the loose cover (and spring
clip if fitted), pulling the plastic clip, and
removing the plastic cover.If a single indicator light, brake light or
headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer
to Chapter 12 for details.
If both brake lights have failed, it is possible
that the brake light switch above the brake
pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation
is described in Chapter 9.1
If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall
or garage door and operate
the lights. The reflected light should
show if they are working properly.
4Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 13 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative.4Visually check all wiring connectors,
harnesses and retaining clips for security, and
for signs of chafing or damage.
23

0•16Weekly checks
It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is completely
effective, you may have the expense of
replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal thatthe tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the whole
car, the rear wheels could be out of balance.
Wheel balancing should be carried out by a
tyre dealer or garage.
Tyre Pressure Check
Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.
Tread Depth - manual check
Alternatively tread wear can be monitored
with a simple, inexpensive device known
as a tread depth indicator gauge.
Tread Depth - visual check
The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
The band positions are indicated by a
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).123
Tyre condition and pressure
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Under-inflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Over-inflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
4

0•18Weekly checks
Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle
handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations
Tyre pressures (cold) - lbf/in2
(bar):FrontRear
All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load*26 (1.8)26 (1.8)
All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . .29 (2.0)36 (2.5)
Estate models with full load:
175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and
195/65 R14T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 (2.0)48 (2.8)
195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . .29 (2.0)36 (2.5)
P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 (1.8)36 (2.5)
P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 (3.5)65 (4.5)
*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2
(0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h)
over 100 mph (160 km/h)
A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload
Tyre pressures