air condition FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G Reference Workshop Manual

Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references to
these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of
this manual. Generally, an alternative method
of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and
screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades
from time to time. A little timely attention withemery cloth or a file will soon restore items like
this to a good serviceable finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Stroboscopic timing lightCylinder compression gaugeClutch plate alignment set
Micrometer setVernier calipers

MOT test checksREF•7
REF
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

MOTtest checksREF•9
REF
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

REF•10MOTtest checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test
can be carried out later to check that the
vehicle pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-
bearing areas. (These include chassis box
sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars,
and all suspension, steering, braking system
and seat belt mountings and anchorages.)
Any corrosion which has seriously reduced
the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow
the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000
rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less,
this counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
MAutomatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by air flow.
MTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using a
degreasing agent or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low speed,
so that air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise and
support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming from. The
following are common areas of leakage.
a)Fluid pan ( transmission “sump”).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler fluid pipes/unions (Chapter 7).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
MTransmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
MThe most likely cause of gear selection problems is a faulty or
poorly-adjusted gear selector mechanism. The following are common
problems associated with a faulty selector mechanism.
a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the
one actually being used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality, or erratic gear changes.
MRefer any problems to a Ford dealer, or transmission specialist.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
MLow transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7).
Noisy in neutral with engine running
MInput shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7).*
MClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
MWorn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7).*
Difficulty engaging gears
MClutch fault (Chapter 6).
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7).
MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7).*
Jumps out of gear
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7).MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7).*
MWorn selector forks (Chapter 7).*
Vibration
MLack of oil (Chapter 1).
MWorn bearings (Chapter 7).*
Lubricant leaks
MLeaking oil seal (Chapter 7).
MLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7).*
*Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so
that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
MBadly stretched or broken cable (Chapter 6).
MStripped pawl on pedal (Chapter 6).
MBroken clutch release bearing or arm (Chapter 6).
MBroken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
MCable free play excessive (Chapter 6).
MClutch driven plate sticking on gearbox input shaft splines
(Chapter 6).
MClutch driven plate sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).
MFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).
MClutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no
increase in vehicle speed)
MClutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).MClutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).
MFaulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
Judder as clutch is engaged
MClutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).
MClutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).
MFaulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).
MWorn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2).
MClutch driven plate hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn
(Chapter 6).
Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
MWorn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).
MWorn or dry clutch pedal pivot (Chapter 6).
MFaulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).
MPressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).
MBroken clutch driven plate cushioning springs (Chapter 6).
REF•14Fault diagnosis
Clutch
Manual gearbox
Automatic transmission

Excessive final drive noise
MOil level low, or incorrect grade (Chapter 1)
MWorn bearings (Chapter 9)
MWorn or badly adjusted crownwheel and pinion (Chapter 9)
MLoose or deteriorated final drive mountings (Chapter 9)
Oil leakage from final drive
MPinion or output flange oil seal leaking (Chapter 9)MRear cover leaking (Chapter 9)
MCover or casing cracked (Chapter 9)
Grating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
MFlange screws loose (Chapter 9)
MCV joints worn (Chapter 9)
MDriveshaft bent (Chapter 9)
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system
should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
MWorn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 10).
MSeized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston
(Chapter 10).
MA mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 10).
MBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).
MWorn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 11).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
MBrake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MExcessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 10).
Excessive brake pedal travel
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
MAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).MFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
MAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
MDeteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 10).
MMaster cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 10).
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
MFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
MDisconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MPrimary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 10).
MSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
MBrake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 10).
MIncorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 10).
MBrake pads contaminated (Chapter 10).
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
MExcessive run-out or distortion of brake disc(s) (Chapter 10).
MBrake pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 10).
MBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).
MWear in suspension or steering components or mountings
(Chapters 1 and 11).
Pedal pulsates when braking hard
MNormal feature of ABS - no fault
Clunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
MWorn universal joints (Chapter 8).
MLoose flange bolt (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn centre bearing or universal joints (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).
MDeteriorated rubber insulator on centre bearing ( Chapter 8)
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MFaulty starter inhibitor switch (Chapter 7).
MIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid
level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter
1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if
needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.
Fault diagnosisREF•15
REF
Propeller shaft
Final drive and driveshafts
Braking system

Glossary of Technical termsREF•19
REF
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.Crocodile clipSee Alligator clip
DDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
Castellated nut
Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Carburettor
Canister
Drum brake assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Driveshaft

REF•20Glossary of Technical terms
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
FFan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the sideelectrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
Exhaust manifold
Feeler blade
Adjusting spark plug gap
Gasket
EGR valve

Glossary of Technical termsREF•21
REF
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage

AAccelerator cable- 4A•8
Accelerator pedal- 4A•8
Acknowledgements- 0•4
Aerial- 13•20
Air cleaner- 1•18, 1•19, 4A•4, 4B•4
Air conditioning systems- 1•16, 3•1 et seq
Airflow meter- 4B•8
Alarm system- 13•19
Alternator- 5•6
Anti-roll bars- 11•6, 11•13
Anti-theft alarm- 13•19
Antifreeze- 0•17, 1•21, 3•3
ATF- 0•17, 1•3
Automatic transmission- 7B•1 et seq
extension housing oil seal - 7B•5
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
fluid - 0•17, 1•3
fluid checks - 1•13
gear selector mechanism - 7B•5
kickdown cable - 7B•3
removal and refitting - 7B•2
reversing lamp switch - 7B•6
selector rod - 7B•5
starter inhibitor switch - 7B•6
vacuum diaphragm unit - 7B•6
Auxiliary drivebelts- 1•14, 1•21
Auxiliary shaft- 2A•18
BBattery- 0•15, 1•15, 5•5
Bearings (engine) - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
Bleeding the power steering- 11•18
Bleeding the brakes- 10•2
Body damage- 12•2, 12•4
Body electrical systems - 13•1 et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 12•1 et seq
Bonnet release cable- 12•4
Bonnet lock- 12•4, 12•5
Boot lid lock- 12•5
Brake checks- 1•10
Brake fluid- 0•13, 0•1, 1•21
Braking system- 10•1 et seq
backplate - 10•12
bleeding the brakes - 10•2
brake caliper - 10•8, 10•10
brake disc - 10•3, 10•11
brake drum - 10•12
brake fluid pipes and hoses - 10•19
brake fluid reservoir - 10•15
brake lamp switch - 13•6
brake pads - 10•3
brake pedal - 10•22
brake shoes - 10•6
computer module (ABS) - 10•17
deceleration valve - 10•18
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
handbrake adjustment - 1•16, 10•20, 10•21
handbrake cables - 1•16, 10•20, 10•21
handbrake lever - 10•22
hoses brake - 10•19
hydraulic unit pressure switch - 10•17
hydraulic unit/pump/motor (ABS) - 10•15, 10•16
load apportioning valve - 10•19master cylinder (brake) - 10•13
pressure switch - 10•17
vacuum servo unit - 10•14
valve block (ABS) - 10•17
wheel cylinder - 10•12
wheel sensor - 10•18
Bulbs exterior- 13•16
Bulbs interior- 13•10
Bulbs ratings- 13•2
Bumpers- 12•13
Buying spare parts - REF•3
CCables:
accelerator - 4A•8
bonnet release - 12•4
clutch - 6•2
handbrake - 10•20, 10•21
kickdown - 7B•3
speedometer - 13•11
tailgate/boot lid/filler cap - 12•6
Caliper (brake) front/rear- 10•8, 10•10
Camshaft and followers- 2A•17, 2B•14, 2C•16
Capacities- 1•3
Carburettor:
Ford VV type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•13
Pierburg 2V type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•14
Weber 2V type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•14
Weber 2V TLD type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•15
Cargo area- 12•10
Carpets- 12•2
Catalytic converter- 4B•3, 4B•14
Central locking system- 13•18
Centre/overhead console- 12•18, 12•19
CFI unit- 4B•10
Charging system- 5•5
Cigarette lighter- 13•6
Clock- 13•6
Clutch- 6•1 et seq
assembly - 6•3
cable - 6•2
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
pedal - 6•2
release bearing - 6•5
Coil- 5•13
Coil spring (rear) - 11•10
Compression test- 2A•7
Computer module (ABS)- 10•17
Connecting rods- 2A•22, 2B•17, 2C•21
Contents- 0•2
Coolant- 0•12, 0•17, 1•21, 3•3
Coolant level- 0•12
Cooling, heating and air conditioning
systems- 3•1 et seq
antifreeze - 0•12, 0•17, 1•21, 3•3
coolant pump - 3•5
coolant temperature sender and sensor - 3•8
cooling fan - 3•7
draining - 1•21
drivebelt tensioner - 3•7
expansion tank/coolant sensor - 3•8
fan (radiator) - 3•7
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•13
filling - 1•21
flushing - 1•21heater - 3•9
radiator - 3•3
switches - 3•8
temperature gauge and sender unit - 3•8
thermostat - 3•4
Courtesy lamp switch- 13•5
Crankshaft oil seals- 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
Crankshaft bearings- 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
Cylinder bores- 2A•24
Cylinder head- 2A•14, 2B•10, 2C•13
DDents- 12•2
Depressurising fuel injection system- 4B•4
Dimensions and weights- REF•1
Disc brake - 10•3, 10•11
Distributor- 5•14, 5•15, 5•16
Door- 12•6
Door inner trim panel- 12•7
Door mirror switch- 13•5
Drivebelts check- 1•14, 1•21, 3•7
Driveplate- 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
Driveshafts:
check - 1•17
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
overhaul - 9•5
removal and refitting - 9•4
Drum (brake)- 10•12
EEarth fault finding- 13•3
Electric windows- 13•18
Electrical fault finding- 13•2
Electrical system (body)- 13•1 et seq
Electrical system:
weekly checks - 0•14
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•16
Electronic vacuum regulator- 4B•11
Engine:
auxiliary shaft - 2A•18
bearings - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
bores - 2A•24
camshaft followers - 2A•17, 2B•14, 2C•16
codes - 2A•1, 2B•1, 2C•1
compartment views - 0•10, 1•5
compression test - 2A•7
connecting rods - 2A•22, 2B•17, 2C•21
crankshaft bearings - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
crankshaft oil seals - 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
cylinder bores - 2A•24
cylinder head - 2A•14, 2B•10, 2C•13
dismantling - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2C•10
DOHC engines- 2B•1 et seq
driveplate - 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•12
flywheel - 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
main bearings - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
mountings - 2A•11, 2B•7, 2C•9
oils - 0•17, 1•3
oil and filter renewal - 1•9
oil level - 0•12
oil pump - 2A•21, 2B•16, 2C•20
oil seals crankshaft - 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
piston - 2A•22, 2B•17, 2C•21
IndexREF•23
REF
Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”