radiator FORD SIERRA 1992 2.G SOHC Engines Workshop Manual
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Page 8 of 24

The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head
b)Removal of the camshaft after removal of
the cylinder head
c)Removal of the timing belt and sprockets
d)Removal of the sump
e)Removal of the oil pump
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods
g)Removal of the big-end bearings
h)Removal of the engine mountings
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel
j)Removal of crankshaft front and rear oil
seals
k)Removal of the auxiliary shaft
The following operations can only be carried
out after removing the engine from the
vehicle:
a)Removal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own, or together with the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission. Unless work
is to be carried out on the manual
gearbox/automatic transmission, it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should where possible be
removed on its own due to the additional
weight of the transmission. Note: The air conditioning system should
always be discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models remove the air cleaner.
4On fuel injection models, disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the air inlet
hose, then disconnect the air inlet hose from
the throttle body. Depress the locking clip on
the airflow meter wiring plug and disconnect
the plug (pulling on the plug, not the wiring)
then release the four securing clips and lift off
the air cleaner lid with the airflow meter and
air inlet hose.
5Remove the four retaining clips and
unscrew the two retaining screws, then
withdraw the upper section of the cooling fan
shroud from the radiator. Unclip and remove
the lower section of the shroud.
6Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan as
described in Chapter 3.
7Drain the cooling system.
8Disconnect the upper radiator hose and
where applicable, the expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing.
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
coolant pump, and where applicable from the
inlet manifold and automatic choke. Unclip
the coolant hose from the bracket on the
exhaust manifold hot air shroud/heat shield,
or the camshaft cover, as applicable.
10On carburettor models, where applicable
disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine
management module.
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from the inlet manifold.
12On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
hoses from the carburettor and where
applicable the mechanical fuel pump and plug
the ends of the hoses to minimise petrol
spillage. Remember to take adequate fire
precautions.
13On fuel injection models, disconnect the
fuel feed line from the fuel pressure regulator,
then disconnect the fuel supply hose from thefuel rail. Position a suitable container beneath
the pressure regulator, then slowly loosen the
fuel feed union to relieve the pressure in the
fuel lines before disconnecting the union.
Take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
of the hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
14Disconnect the throttle cable, and where
applicable remove its bracket.
15Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil.
16Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable depending on
model:
Alternator
Starter motor
Distributor
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Temperature gauge sender
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Automatic choke
Automatic choke pull-down solenoid
Carburettor anti-dieselling valve
Inlet manifold heater
Carburettor stepper motor
Fuel injection harness
Dipstick
17Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump from the cylinder block and
move it to one side.
18Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
earth strap on one of the bolts.
19Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
20Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
jack up the front of the vehicle and support on
axle stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
21Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
22Remove the starter motor.
23Remove the exhaust downpipe.
24Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
25Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration).
26Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
27Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against its stop which will hold the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
28Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing. Where applicable,
remove the clip securing the clutch cable to
the right-hand engine mounting bracket. Note
the cable routing for use when refitting.
29Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the gearbox with a trolley jack, using
a block of wood between the jack and the
gearbox to spread the load.
30Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
9Engine - removal leaving
manual gearbox in vehicle
8Method of engine removal
7Major operations requiring
engine removal
6Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2A¥8SOHC engines
9.25 Engine adapter plate bolt (A) and
engine-to-gearbox brace (B)
Warning: Vehicles equipped
with air conditioning:
Components of the air
conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken on the
engine, and it is not always possible to
unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible
connecting pipes. In such a case, the
system should be discharged by a Ford
dealer or air conditioning specialist. The
refrigerant is harmless under normal
conditions, but in the presence of a naked
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.
Page 9 of 24

31Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. The engine should be supported
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
32Raise the engine until the engine
mountings are clear of the crossmember then
pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from
the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is
adequately supported, and take care not to
strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the gearbox.
33Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the radiator fins.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
where applicable, disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket.
3Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 20 to 24 inclusive.
4Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
5Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Where
applicable pull the blanking plug from the
adapter plate.
6Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
from the engine and transmission.
7Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
8Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 30 and 31.
9Raise the engine until the engine mountings
are clear of the crossmember, then pull the
engine forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the radiator fins.Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive.
2Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
3Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
gear lever knob and remove the centre
console. Where a full length console is fitted,
it is only necessary to remove the front tray.
4Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining
frame and withdraw it over the gear lever.
5Unscrew the securing screws on early
models, or release the clips on later models,
and remove the gaiter retaining frame and
inner gaiter.
6Using a suitable Torx key, remove the
screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox
extension housing, and withdraw the gear
lever. Note how the base of the gear lever
locates over the selector shaft.
7Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
beneath the vehicle.
8To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
9Remove the propeller shaft.
10Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
11Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 27 and 28.
12Drain the engine oil into a container.
13Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
14Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch.
15Remove the retaining circlip, and
withdraw the speedometer cable from the
gearbox extension housing.
16Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
17Unscrew the four bolts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the gearbox and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup and where applicable the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
gine/gearbox assembly.19Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
steep angle of approximately 40¼ to 45¼ as it is
being removed.
20Raise the engine/gearbox so that the
engine mountings are clear of the
crossmember, then ease the assembly
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the
assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage surrounding components (see
illustration).
21With the engine/gearbox assembly
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar
to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.
Separation
22To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
23Remove the starter motor.
24Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
25Unscrew the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
26Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth
strap, and remove the bolt from the engine
adapter plate.
27Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation. Any
suspected faults in the automatic transmission
should be referred to a Ford dealer or
automatic transmission specialist before
removal of the unit, as the specialist fault
diagnosis equipment is designed to operate
with the transmission in the vehicle.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
12Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
11Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation
10Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
SOHC engines 2A¥9
2A
11.20 Lifting the engine/gearbox assembly
from the vehicle
Page 12 of 24

Examination and renovation
11With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the relevant Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless it is known that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
12If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
13Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
Torx type cylinder head bolts must be
renewed because of the high stresses to
which they are subjected.
14Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.
Reassembly
15To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with clean engine oil during
assembly.
16Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
17Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
18If they have been removed, new Torx type
cylinder head bolts and new flywheel bolts will
be required.
19After reassembling the main engine
components, refit the ancillary components
listed, referring to the appropriate Chapters
where necessary. Delicate items such as the
alternator and distributor may be left until after
the engine has been refitted if preferred.20If the crankcase ventilation oil separator
was removed, apply a liquid sealing agent to
its tube before pressing it into the cylinder
block.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. On models from mid-1985
(without a timing belt tensioner spring) the belt
tension should be checked using Ford special
tool No 21-113 after refitting. On models up to
mid-1985 (with a tensioner spring), a suitable
splined socket will be required for the
tensioner spring bolt. A suitable puller may be
required to remove the sprockets.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the thermo-viscous cooling fan
c)Remove the coolant
pump/alternator/power-steering pump
drivebelt(s)
d)For improved access, remove the radiator
and disconnect the radiator top hose from
the thermostat housing
2Unscrew the three securing bolts and
washers and withdraw the timing cover. Note
the position of the fourth bolt above the
crankshaft pulley which can be left in place.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the TDC
(top dead centre) mark on the crankshaft
pulley is aligned with the pointer on the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustration 16.2a of Chapter 5) and the pointer
on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head (see
illustration).
4On models up to mid-1985 (with a tensioner
spring), loosen the timing belt tensioner spring
bolt using the special splined socket (see
illustration), then loosen the tensioner pivot
bolt. If necessary for improved access,
remove the thermostat housing. Press the
tensioner against the spring tension and
tighten the pivot bolt to retain the tensioner in
the released position.5On models from mid-1985 (without a
tensioner spring), loosen the timing belt
tensioner bolts (see illustration)and move
the tensioner away from the belt. If necessary
to improve access, remove the thermostat
housing.
6Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
7Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever. Alternatively, if the
pulley has peripheral bolt holes, screw in a
couple of bolts and use a lever between them
to jam it. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn
very far, or piston/valve contact may occur.
8Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
9Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
10If desired, the sprocket can be removed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 21.
11Remove the crankshaft sprocket, refitting
the bolt part way and using a puller if
necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
19Timing belt and sprockets -
removal and refitting
2A¥12SOHC engines
19.3 TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket
backplate aligned with indentation on
cylinder head19.5 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed) -
models from mid-1985
19.8 Using a puller to remove a pressed
type crankshaft pulley
19.4 Loosening the timing belt tensioner
spring bolt using a splined socket - models
up to mid-1985