light FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Bodywork And Fittings Workshop Manual

The model range includes 4-door Saloon, 3
and 5-door Hatchback, 5-door Estate, and 2-
door Pick-up body styles.
Each body is of all-steel welded energy-
absorbing monocoque construction, with a
separate load-bearing rear chassis frame on
P100 Pick-up models. Corrosion protection is
applied to all new vehicles, and includes zinc
phosphate dipping of the body panels, and
wax injection of box sections and doors.
All models have flush direct-glazed fixed glass
panels, and integrated polycarbonate bumpers.
All body panels are welded, including the
front wings, so it is recommended that major
body damage repairs are entrusted to a dealer.
A wide range of interior equipment and trim
options are available depending on model.
The procedures given in this Chapter apply to
original equipment fitments, and do not cover
after-market products.
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance
the underside, inside all the wheel arches and
the lower part of the engine compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam cleaning is available at many garages
and is necessary for removal of the
accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is
allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam cleaning facilities are not available,
there are one or two excellent grease solvents
available, which can be brush applied. The dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that thesemethods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to winter, when the underbody should be
washed down and any damage to the wax
coating repaired using a proprietry brand
undershield. Ideally, a completely fresh coat
should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish, will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear so that water can be
drained out. Bright work should be treated in
the same way as paint work. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears by the use of a proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.
At the specified intervals, check the
operation of the door locks and check straps
and lubricate the hinges with a little oil. Also
lubricate the hinges of the bonnet and boot lid
or tailgate, as applicable, and the bonnet
release mechanism.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
clean by wiping with a damp cloth and a
proprietry wax polish. If they do become
stained (which can be more apparent on light
coloured upholstery) use a little liquid
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp
could get into the seams and padded interior
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it
is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out
properly, particularly where carpets are
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.Repair of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does not
penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch
with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting
paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch
and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax
polish. Rinse the area with clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden: then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply a good wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or
nylon applicator fill the scratch with bodystopper
paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with
cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste
which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before
the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap
a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a
finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners; and
then quickly sweep it across the surface of the
stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that
the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly
hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over
as described earlier in this Section.
Repair of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better
to bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8 in (3 mm) below the level of the
surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent
is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to
pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is
accessible, it can be hammered out gently from
behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic
head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of
wood firmly against the outside of the panel to
absorb the impact from the hammer blows and
thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from
being “belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area particularly in the deeper section.
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
2Maintenance - bodywork,
underside and fittings
1General information
12•2Bodywork and fittings

Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal of
the paint from the damaged area, and from an
inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by
using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power
drill, although it can be done just as effectively
by hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small
holes in the affected area. This will provide a
really good “key” for the filler paste.
To complete the repair see the Section on
filling and re-spraying.
Repair of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush
on a power drill. If these are not available a few
sheets of abrasive paper will do the job just as
effectively. With the paint removed you will be
able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and
therefore decide whether to renew the whole
panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected
area. New body panels are not as expensive as
most people think and it is often quicker and
more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to
attempt to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order
to create a slight depression for the filler paste.
Wire brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted
area is accessible treat this also.
Before filling can take place it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre
matting is probably the best material to use for
a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate
size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
position it in the hole so that its edges are
below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It
can be retained in position by several blobs of
filler paste around its periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required, then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and re-
spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections on
dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or
board measure the hardener carefully (follow
the maker’s instructions on the pack) otherwise
the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly.
Alternatively, a no-mix filler can be used straight
from the tube without mixing, but daylight is
required to cure it. Using the applicator apply
the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the filler
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too long
the paste will become sticky and begin to “pick
up” on the applicator. Continue to add thin
layers of filler paste at twenty-minute intervals
until the level of the filler is just proud of the
surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer, this will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners
to form a really thin paste which is ideal for
filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this willhelp to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape and several thicknesses of
newspaper for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat
of primer; the thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of paint rather than one thick
one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is really
smooth. While doing this, the work area should
be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-
and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow
to dry before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about 2
inches of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter of
either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this
field, or renewing complete components. Repair
of such damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs. The
basic technique involves making a groove along
the line of the crack in the plastic using a rotary
burr in a power drill. The damaged part is then
welded back together by using a hot air gun to
heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the
groove. Any excess plastic is then removed and
the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is
used, as body components can be made of a
variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
Bodywork and fittings 12•3
12

Models up to 1987
1Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock by
pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
2Remove the three securing screws and
withdraw the lock from the front panel.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1987
4Remove the radiator grille panel.
5Disconnect the cable from the bonnet lock
by pulling the cable sheath end fitting from its
bracket, then releasing the end fitting from the
lock lever.
6Detach the bracing strut from the lock by
removing the screw, then remove the two
securing screws and withdraw the lock from
the front panel.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Open the boot lid, and place protective
covers (old rags or cardboard) beneath the
corners of the lid, and over the rear wings to
prevent damage to the paintwork.
2Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
from the lock solenoid and “boot lid ajar”
sensor, after disconnecting the battery
negative lead.
3Release the wiring loom grommets, taking
care not to lose them, then tie string to the
wiring loom(s), and pull the loom(s) through
the boot lid. Leave the string(s) in position in
the boot lid to aid refitting of the loom(s).
4Mark the location of the hinges on the
underside of the lid using a soft pencil or
masking type, then loosen the four hinge bolts.5With the help of an assistant, remove the
bolts and lift the boot lid from the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
7Adjust the hinges to their original marked
positions before tightening the bolts.
8On completion, check that the boot lid is
central within its aperture and aligned with the
surrounding bodywork. Re-adjust the hinges
to give satisfactory alignment if necessary.
9Check that the lock striker engages fully in
the lock, and if necessary adjust the position
of the lock striker.
Removal
1With the boot lid raised, remove the lock
barrel retaining clip.
2Where applicable, disconnect the operating
lever from the central locking solenoid/motor,
then withdraw the lock barrel.
3Remove the three retaining screws from the
lock assembly, if necessary loosening the
reinforcing plate (see illustration).
4Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, the earth lead from the bootlid
and the “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug.
Unclip the luggage compartment light switch
from the lock assembly, where applicable.
5Withdraw the lock assembly from the boot
lid.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the lock
assembly and loosely refitting the retaining
screws.
7Insert the lock barrel, where applicable
reconnecting the operating lever to the
solenoid, and refit the retaining clip.
8Tighten the lock assembly retaining screws,
and where applicable reconnect the earth
lead and “boot lid ajar” sensor wiring plug,
and the battery negative lead.
9If the reinforcing plate was loosened during
removal, tighten the retaining screws.Note: On Hatchback models made before
1990 with an integral heated rear
window/radio aerial, note that the radio aerial
lead is routed through different openings to
that of other models in the rear bodywork and
the tailgate. If a new, later-specification
tailgate is to be fitted to an earlier vehicle, a
new opening must be made in the bodywork
for the aerial lead. Ideally, this work should be
carried out by a Ford dealer, who will have the
necessary template available to ensure that
the opening is positioned accurately.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the tailgate and prise out the trim
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver.
3Disconnect the wiring from the heated rear
window, rear wash/wipe, interior light, lock
solenoid and “tailgate ajar” sensor, as
applicable. Disconnect the washer fluid hose
where applicable; be prepared for fluid
spillage.
4Release the wiring loom/hose grommet(s)
taking care not to lose it/them, then tie string
to the wiring loom(s)/hose, and pull the
loom(s)/hose through the tailgate. Leave the
string(s) in position in the tailgate to aid
refitting of the loom(s)/hose.
5Have an assistant support the tailgate, then
disconnect the support struts by prising out
the retaining clips. Do not remove the clips
completely, just raise them by a maximum of
4.0 mm (0.16 in) and then pull the struts off
their mountings (see illustration).
6Prise out the hinge fixing covers from the
headlining, unscrew the hinge nuts and
washers, and with the aid of the assistant,
withdraw the tailgate from the vehicle (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge nuts until the tailgate is
positioned centrally in its aperture. If
necessary, adjust the position of the lock
striker so that it engages fully in the lock.
11Tailgate (Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and
refitting
10Boot lid lock (Saloon models)
- removal and refitting
9Boot lid (Saloon models) -
removal and refitting
8Bonnet lock - removal and
refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•5
12
11.6 Tailgate hinge assembly - Hatchback
and Estate models
11.5 Prising out a tailgate strut retaining
clip10.3 Boot lid lock - Saloon models
A Lock retaining
screws
B Earth leadC Reinforcing plate
screws

Removal
1Open the tailgate and prise out the trim
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver(see
illustration).
2Remove the lock barrel retaining clip, and
where applicable disconnect the operating
lever from the central locking solenoid/motor,
then withdraw the lock barrel (see
illustration). Central locking solenoid/motor
removal and refitting is covered in Chapter 13.
3Remove the two securing screws and
detach the lock barrel support bracket from
the tailgate.
4Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, the earth lead from the tailgate
and the “tailgate ajar” sensor wiring plug.
Unclip the luggage compartment light switch
from the lock assembly, where applicable.
5Remove the securing screws and withdraw
the lock assembly.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
tighten the lock barrel support bracket screws
until the lock barrel has been fitted.
Removal
1Support the tailgate in the open position
using a prop, or with the aid of an assistant.
2Disconnect the strut from the tailgate by
prising out the retaining clip. Do not remove
the clip completely, just raise it by a maximum
of 4.0 mm (0.16 in) and then pull the strut off
its mounting.
3Pull the strut from the pivot stud on the
body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1Operate the control lever to open the
tailgate/boot lid and the fuel filler flap (see
illustration).
2Remove the driver’s side centre pillar lower
trim panel and the sill trim panel.
3Withdraw the cover from the control lever.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
detach the control lever assembly from the
body panel. Detach the cable from the control
assembly.
5Fold the rear seat cushion forwards or
remove it, as applicable, and remove the rear
seat side cushion for access to the wheel arch
trim panel.
6Detach the trim panel from the wheel arch
by removing the two securing screws from the
parcel shelf bracket. Free the cable up to the
wheel arch.
7Working inside the luggage compartment,
remove the trim panels for access to the
petrol flap lock and tailgate/boot lid lock.
8Disengage the petrol flap catch from the
housing by twisting and pulling out (see
illustration). Carefully pull the cable through into
the luggage compartment, noting its routing.
9Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the tailgate/boot lid lock striker from the bodypanel. Withdraw the striker and cable
assembly.
Refitting
10Commence refitting by installing the
tailgate/boot lid striker and cable assembly.
Secure the cable to the body with tape.
11Route the cable back to the petrol flap
housing, and refit the petrol flap catch.
12Route the cable into the interior of the
vehicle, and refit the luggage compartment
trim panels.
13Route the cable to the control lever,
securing the cable with tape to the body, then
refit the wheel arch trim panel, and refit the
seat cushions.
14Reconnect the cable to the control lever
assembly, then refit the assembly.
15Refit the control lever cover and the trim
panels.
Models up to 1990
1Open the tailgate/boot lid.
2Prise the four screw covers from the
spoiler, then remove the screws, and
withdraw the spoiler.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1990
4Open the tailgate/boot lid.
5Remove the inner tailgate/boot lid trim
panel for access to the spoiler securing nuts.
6Unscrew the central spoiler securing nut,
then unscrew the four outer securing nuts
(two on each side), and withdraw the spoiler.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front door
1On models with electric mirrors, electric
windows, central-locking, door-mounted
speakers, or “door ajar” sensors, remove the
trim panel and disconnect the wiring inside
the door. Withdraw the wiring loom(s) through
the grommet(s) in the front edge of the door.
16Door - removal and refitting
15Tailgate/boot lid spoiler -
removal and refitting
14Tailgate/boot lid/fuel filler
flap release cable - removal
and refitting
13Tailgate strut (Hatchback
and Estate models) - removal
and refitting
12Tailgate lock (Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and
refitting
12•6Bodywork and fittings
14.1 Tailgate/boot lid/fuel filler flap control
lever assembly14.8 Disengaging the petrol flap catch
from the housing
12.2 Tailgate lock assembly - Hatchback
and Estate models
A Lock barrel support
bracket
B Lock barrel
retaining clipC Lock barrel
D Torx screw
E Lock assembly
F Screws
12.1 Tailgate trim panel fixings -
Hatchback and Estate models

4Unclip the trim panel from the lower edge of
the lower facia panel.
5Remove the four securing screws and
withdraw the lower facia panel. Where
applicable, disconnect the loudspeaker
wiring.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Passenger side lower facia panel
7Remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the side trim panel from the left-
hand side of the footwell.
8Remove the centre console to gain access
to the lower facia panel securing screws.
9Unclip the trim panel from the lower edge of
the lower facia panel.
10Unscrew the seven securing screws and
withdraw the lower facia panel. Disconnect
the wiring from the loudspeaker, glovebox
lamp, ashtray lamp, heater switch, cigarette
lighter, radio/cassette player, and
loudspeaker balance control, as applicable. It
is advisable to label the wiring plugs to assist
refitting in the correct positions.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Upper facia panel
12Remove the lower facia panels as
described previously in this Section.13Remove the instrument panel (Chapter 13).
14Where applicable, remove the trip
computer and “door ajar” monitor.
15Remove the heater control panel.
16Prise out the front and rear foglamp, heated
rear window and heated windscreen switches
and the instrument light and intermittent wiper
rheostats, as applicable, from the upper facia
panel, and disconnect their wiring plugs. It is
advisable to label the wiring plugs to assist
refitting in the correct positions.
17Remove the five securing screws and
withdraw the upper facia panel through the
passenger door aperture. Disconnect the
heater vent hoses, and ensure that any
remaining wiring is disconnected and where
applicable unclipped from the facia panel.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Models from 1992
19A restyled facia is fitted from 1992. The
procedures for removal and refitting of the
various panels are essentially as described
above, noting the following points(see
illustration).
Bodywork and fittings 12•17
1243.19 Facia components and securing screw locations (arrowed) - models from 1992
A Upper facia panel
B Passenger’s side lower facia panel
C Driver’s side lower facia panel
D Heater fan control cover and bezel
E Clock/auxiliary warning system displayF Instrument panel surround and screw covers
G Clock/auxiliary warning system display
surround
H Instrument cluster
J Instrument cluster surround
A Upper facia panel
B Passenger side lower facia panelC Driver’s side lower facia panel
43.1 Facia panel securing screw locations (arrowed)
43.2 Withdraw the side trim panel from the
footwell

20On models with an adjustable steering
column, fully extend and lower the steering
column before attempting to remove any of
the panels on the driver’s side.
21The steering column shrouds are secured
by six screws - five through the lower shroud,
and one through the upper shroud.
22If necessary, remove the centre console.
23The driver’s side lower facia panel is
secured by five screws.
24The passenger’s side lower facia panel is
secured by eight screws.
25On models with an alarm, the alarm warning
light must be disconnected and removed before
removing the upper facia panel.
Models up to 1990
Full length console
1Where applicable, prise the electric window
switches from the front upper console panel
and disconnect the wiring.
2Remove the three securing screws from the
front upper console panel, then withdraw the
panel over the gear selector lever, at the same
time releasing the rubber gaiter where
applicable.
3On “high specification” models, where
applicable prise the electric window switches
from the rear upper console panel and
disconnect the wiring. Remove the five
securing screws and withdraw the rear upper
console panel (see illustrations).
4On “low specification” models, remove the
two securing screws and release the single
rear clip, then withdraw the rear upper
console panel.
5Where applicable, remove the two screws
securing the lower console centre bracket to
the transmission tunnel, and remove the
bracket.
6Remove the six screws securing the lower
console panel, and withdraw the panel (see
illustrations).
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Short console
8Prise out the blanking plug, and remove the
rear console securing screw.9On automatic transmission models, lift out
the console tray mat and remove the front two
console securing screws.
10On manual gearbox models, prise out the
blanking plugs and remove the front two
console securing screws.
11Withdraw the console over the gear
selector lever, at the same time releasing the
rubber gaiter where applicable.
Models from 1990
12Remove the switch assembly (after
disconnecting the battery negative lead), or
remove the blanking plate from the gear lever
surround, as applicable.
13Remove the securing screw from the gearlever surround, and withdraw the gear lever
surround from the console by releasing the
two securing clips.
14Remove the seven console securing
screws (see illustration).
15Chock the rear wheels, then release the
handbrake lever.
16Jack up the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Disconnect the handbrake equaliser from the
linkage on the underbody.
17Raise the handbrake lever fully, and lift the
console over the handbrake lever.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, check the handbrake/cable
adjustment.
44Centre console - removal and
refitting
12•18Bodywork and fittings
44.3b Rear upper console panel rear
retaining screws (arrowed)
44.6b . . . centre securing screw . . .
44.14 Centre console components - models from 1990
A Screw
B Screw coverC Gear lever surround
D Blanking plateE Centre console
44.6c . . . and rear securing screw
44.6a Removing a lower console panel
front securing screw . . .44.3a Removing a rear upper console
panel front retaining screw - “high
specification” model

Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the sunroof.
3On models with a manually-operated
sunroof, remove the sunroof handle securing
screw, then withdraw the handle and trim plate.
4On models with an electric sunroof, remove
the operating switch.
5Remove the courtesy lamp, if necessary,
then remove the two screws from the front of
the console (see illustration).
6Remove the two screws securing the rear of
the console to the sunroof flange, and
withdraw the console.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
1On Saloons, remove the rear seat back.
2Loosen the upper screws of all the pillar
trim panels touching the headlining.
3Prise off the covers and remove the screws
from the passenger grab handles. Withdraw
the grab handles. Similarly, prise off the
blanking covers and remove the headlining
securing screws from the driver’s position.
4Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the courtesy light(s) from the headlining
or overhead console. Disconnect the wiring
and remove the courtesy light(s).
5Where applicable, remove the two securing
screws and withdraw the overhead console.
6Remove the sunroof (where fitted). The
headlining is folded around the sunroof
aperture flange and is held in place with
adhesive tape and a moulding which must be
removed.
7Support the headlining, then remove the
screws and withdraw the sun visors and clips.
Where applicable, disconnect the wiring from
the vanity mirror lamp.
8On Estate models, remove the two plastic
fasteners from the headlining between the
rear door and tailgate pillars.
9Remove the two plastic fasteners from the
rear of the headlining, and withdraw the
headlining through the luggage compartment.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
P100 models
11Loosen the front pillar trim panel upper
securing screws.
12Prise off the covers and remove the
screws from the passenger grab handle.
Withdraw the grab handle.13Prise off the blanking cover and remove
the headlining securing screw from the
driver’s side.
14Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the courtesy light from the headlining.
Disconnect the wiring and remove the
courtesy light.
15Support the headlining, then remove the
screws and withdraw the sun visors and clips.
16Remove the blanking covers, and the
three securing screws from the rear of the
headlining, then withdraw the headlining
through one of the door apertures.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front seat
1Slide the seat fully forwards, and on seats
with height adjustment unhook the tension
spring from the rear crosstube. Where
applicable, disconnect the wiring from the
seat heating pad(s).
2Unscrew and remove the two bolts from the
inner rear seat mounting bracket and the
single bolt from the outer rear seat mounting
bracket (see illustration).
3Slide the seat fully rearwards, then unscrew
and remove the single bolt from each front
seat mounting bracket. Withdraw the seat
from the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
fitting the front and rear mounting bolts,tighten the inner bolts first in each case.
Where applicable locate the height
adjustment tension spring between the weld
pips on the crosstube.
Rear seat cushion
5Remove the single screw from each side,
securing the cushion to the heel kick panel.
6Pull the cushion forwards and remove it
from the vehicle.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear seat backrest
Fixed rear seats
8Remove the seat cushion as described in
paragraphs 5 to 7.
9Remove the three now exposed Torx
screws from the base of the backrest.
10Working inside the luggage compartment,
remove the three nuts securing the backrest
to the body.
11Pull the backrest forwards into the
passenger compartment and remove it from
the vehicle. Where applicable, feed the rear
seat belt straps and buckles around the edges
of the backrest.
12Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Folding rear seats
13Release the catch and fold the seat
backrest forwards.
14Remove the two Torx screws from each
backrest hinge.
15Pull the backrest forwards into the
passenger compartment and remove it from
the vehicle. Where applicable, feed the rear
seat belt straps and buckles around the edges
of the backrest.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
where necessary adjust the position of the
seat catch striker to achieve correct operation
of the catch.
Rear seat side cushion
Saloon models
17Working in the luggage compartment,
remove the nut from the side cushion stud.
18Working in the passenger compartment,
remove the rear seat cushion as described in
paragraphs 5 and 6.
19Expose the seat backrest hinge bolt by
removing the cover, then remove the bolt.
20Pull the top of the side cushion forwards
to disengage the stud from the body.
21Straighten the metal retaining tangs at the
base of the side cushion, then withdraw the
cushion.
22Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Hatchback and Estate models
23Fold down the rear seat backrest.
24Carefully bend back the side cushion
lower retaining tangs, then unhook the
cushion from the upper fixing on the rear
parcel shelf support (see illustration).
25Refitting is a reversal of removal.
47Seats - removal and refitting
46Headlining - removal and
refitting
45Overhead console - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•19
12
47.2 Front seat inner rear mounting
45.5 Overhead console securing screws (A)