tow GMC CANYON 2005 Workshop Manual

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
handle has this symbol
on it.The transmission dipstick is located toward the rear of
the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of
the vehicle. SeeEngine Compartment Overview
on page 5-12for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-21

What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one-half DEX-COOL®coolant which will not damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do
not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling
system can be dangerous. Plain water, or
some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil
before the proper coolant mixture will. Your
vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the
proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the
wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot
but you would not get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch re and you or others
could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and the proper coolant.Notice:If you use an improper coolant mixture,
your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost would not be covered by your
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze
and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and
other parts.
Notice:If you use the proper coolant, you do not
have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim
to improve the system. These can be harmful.Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank
is located toward the rear
of the engine compartment
on the passenger’s side
of the vehicle. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview
on page 5-12for more
information on location.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL
COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm,
the level could be above the FULL COLD level.
5-26

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-56.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn off the air conditioning.
3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while you are parked. Push down
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning,turn
off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle
until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-29

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.
Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of
the ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure to
secure it tightly.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday
driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high
outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when
the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan
noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-34

To replace the bulbs, do the following:
1. Open and support the hood. SeeHood Release
on page 5-11.
2. Access the bulb/sockets from the engine
compartment.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it
straight out of the headlamp housing.
4. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb.
5. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb.
Use care not to touch the new bulb with your
bare hand, anything damp or oily.
6. Place the connector with the new bulb into the
headlamp housing and turn it clockwise until it
is tight.Sealed Beam Headlamps
To replace the headlamp capsule, do the following:
1. Remove the four retainer screws and the retainer.
2. Pull the headlamp capsule toward you and
unplug the electrical connector from it.
3. Remove the old headlamp capsule.
4. Plug the electrical connector into the new headlamp
capsule.
5. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the headlamp.
5-48

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps
1. Remove the turn signal/parking lamp/daytime
running lamp (DRL) assembly by pressing on the
release clip on the outboard side of the housing and
pulling the outboard end of the lamp toward you.
2. Pull the inboard side of the lamp out from the small
post in the grille.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove
it from the lamp housing.4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket.
5. Insert the new bulb into the bulb socket.
6. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp housing and
turn it clockwise until it is tight.
7. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking
lamp/DRL housing over the small post in the grille.
8. Align the release clip of the lamp assembly with the
square opening in the grille.
9. Push the outboard side of the lamp assembly in,
until the release clip snaps into place.
5-49

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the Tire and
Loading Information label. For the location of the tire
and loading information label seeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-44. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened, see “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 5-103for the
proper wheel nut torque specication.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a
Flat Tire on page 5-70.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of
tread remaining.
Some commercial truck
tires may not have
treadwear indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
5-63

If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-69

{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off.
7. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.8. Place the spare tire on the mounting surface.{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
9. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand. Then use
the wheel wrench to
tighten the nuts
until the wheel is held
against the hub.
5-78

4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the
spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with
Step 5 underRemoving the Spare Tire and Tools
on page 5-71.
5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Stand the wheel blocks
on their shortest ends,
with the backs
facing each other.
7. Place the bottom edge of the jack on the wheel
blocks, separating them so that the jack is
balanced securely.8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel
wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel
blocks) under the vehicle towards the front of the
rear bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack
under the wheel.
9. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the tire.
10. Continue raising the jack until the tire stops moving
upward and is held rmly in place, the secondary
latch has released and the tire is balancing on
the jack.
5-82