lock GMC ENVOY 1999 Repair Manual

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4-19 Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a
hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and
an understanding of what your vehicle can and can't do.
There are some hills that simply can't be driven, no
matter how well built the vehicle.
CAUTION:
Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If
you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive
down them, you can't control your speed. If you
drive across them, you will roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt
about the steepness, don't drive the hill.
Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it's one
of those hills that's just too steep to climb, descend or
cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small
hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the
incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may
not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by
bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply
steeper in places?

Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?

Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
won't have to make turning maneuvers?

Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your
path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?

What's beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop
-off, a fence? Get out and walk
the hill if you don't know. It's the smart way to
find out.

Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they
are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
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4-21
Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about
to stall, and I can't make it up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here's what you should do:

Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it
from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

If your engine has stopped running, you'll need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in
REVERSE (R).

As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position. This
way, you'll be able to tell if your wheels are straight
and maneuver as you back down. It's best that you
back down the hill with your wheels straight rather
than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel
too far to the left or right will increase the possibility
of a rollover.Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are
about to stall, when going up a hill.

Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) to ªrev-upº the engine and regain
forward momentum. This won't work. Your vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could go
out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then
apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release
the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall
when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to
stall your vehicle, it's steep enough to cause you to
roll over if you turn around. If you can't make it up
the hill, you must back straight down the hill.
Q:Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the
hill and decide I just can't do it. What should
I do?
A:Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle
and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay
clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled
downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL
when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.
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4-37
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you're actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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4-39
CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can't see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn't collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that's away from the wind. This will help
keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well
-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle
behind another vehicle for use at your destination. Be
sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for
recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for
the towing equipment.
When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to OFF. To
prevent your battery from draining while towing,
remove the RDO BATT fuse from the instrument panel
fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you reach
your destination. See ªFuses and Circuit Breakersº in
the Index.
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4-40
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to correctly tow your
vehicle on all four wheels:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Place the transmission in PARK (P).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.4. With the engine running, shift the transfer case to
NEUTRAL. See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index
for the proper procedure to select the neutral position
for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission.
You or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake is firmly set before you shift the
transfer case into NEUTRAL.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column will allow the proper
movement of the front wheels and tires
during towing.
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4-43 Payload
The payload capacity is shown on the Certification/Tire
label. This is the maximum load capacity that your
vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the
occupants as part of your load. If you added any
accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the
factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things
from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this.
Electronic Level Control
The rear of the vehicle is automatically kept level as you
load or unload your vehicle. However, you should still
not exceed the GVWR or the GAWR.
The ignition has to be on for the level control to work.
The system includes a small electric air compressor and
air
-adjustable rear shock absorbers.
You may hear the compressor operating when you load
or unload your vehicle, and periodically as the system
self
-adjusts. This is normal.The compressor should operate for brief periods of time.
If the sound continues for an extended period of time,
your vehicle needs service. To keep your battery from
being drained, you may want to remove the LD LEV
fuse in the engine compartment fuse block until you can
get your vehicle serviced (see ªFuses and Circuit
Breakersº in the Index).
Using heavier suspension components to get added
durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask
your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts or
components that fail because of overloading.
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4-54 Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The heavy-duty trailer wiring is an eight-wire harness
assembly. The harness is stored under the vehicle, on the
driver's side corner frame rear crossmember. The
heavy
-duty trailer wiring has a 30-amp feed wire with
an in
-line fuse located by the junction block. See ªFuses
and Circuit Breakersº in the Index. The harness does not
have a connector and should be wired by a qualified
electrical technician. The technician can use the
following color code chart when connecting the wiring
harness to your trailer.

Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or
auxiliary wiring.
Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid.

Light Green: Back
-up lamps.

Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps.

Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.

White (Heavy Gauge): Ground wire.

White (Light Gauge): Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.
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5-15 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the
cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap
and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the
pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first
stops. (Don't press down while turning the
pressure cap.)
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means
there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
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5-19
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. If you have a four
-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear
-- not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine.
5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
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5-20 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you'll need is stored along the
driver's side inner rear quarter panel. Your vehicle is
also equipped with work gloves and a plastic ground
mat to assist in the changing of a flat tire.
To remove your jack cover,
pull up on the latches on the
cover. Remove the wheel
blocks, jack and
wheel wrench.
Your vehicle's spare tire is located underneath the rear
of your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Never remove or restow a tire from/to a stowage
position under the vehicle while the vehicle is
supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle
when restowing.
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