tow GMC SAVANA 1997 Service Manual

Front Towing
A towing dully must be used under the drive wheels
when towing from the front.
Tow Limits
- 35 mph (%kwh), 50 miles (80 km)
NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the
front bumper system will, be damaged. Use wheel
lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping
may be required for car-carrier equipment.
Use safety chains and wheel straps.
Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could
damage a vehicle or wheel-lift equipment.
To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly
and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance
is obtained between the ground and/or
wheel-lift equipment.
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Rear Towing
I NOTICE:
Do not tow the vehicle from the rear with loads
approaching the rated
GVW as the weight
transfer will cause the front suspension to
become overloaded.
NOTICE:
Do not tow with the sling-type equipment or the
rear bumper will be damaged. Use wheel lift or
carcarrier equipment. Additional ramping may
be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety
chains and wheel straps.
Towing
a vehicle over rough surfaces could
damage a vehicle.
To help avoid damage, install a
towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate
clearance is obtained between the ground and/or
wheel-lift equipment.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no
steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes
the engine can get a little too hot when you:
0 Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high-speed driving.
0 Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or
so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to
the highest gear while
driving
-- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (a)
or DRIVE (D). speed and
open the window as necessary. If you no
longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If
the warning doesn’t come back on, you can
drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine
for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to push
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back
to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now
see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the
warning,
turn ofithe engine and get everyone out of
the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions,
the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the
clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an increase
in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken
as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly. The
fan
will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and the clutch partially disengages.
You may
also hear this fan noise when you start the engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly.
If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely
to leak out slowly.
But
if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop
well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your
vehicle.
You will use the ratchet and extension to lower
the spare tire.
I NOTICE: I
Never remove or restore a tire frodto a stowage
position under the vehicle while the vehicle
is
supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside
of the vehicle
when restowing.
A flat rear tire reduces clearance to remove the spare
tire. If there is
less than 12 inches (30.48 cm) between
the ground and the rear bumper
or any trailer hitch,
jack up the vehicle until the flat tire is off the ground.
(See“Removing
the Flat Tire” and “Installing the
Spare Tire,” Steps
4 through 8, in this section.)
Unless your vehicle has a flat rear tire, do
not remove
or restore a tire frodto a stowage position under the
vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always
tighten the tire fully against the underside
of the vehicle
when restowing.
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k, CAUTION:
---
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it
is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use
a cloth or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
C WTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could
fall off, causing a serious accident.
i. , Replace the wheel nuts
with the rounded end of
the nuts toward the
wheel. Tighten each
wheel nut
by hand until
the wheel
is held against
the hub.
9. Lower the vehicle by rotating the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle keep the 4. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to
cable tight. the extension.
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
NOTICE: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on too fast while shifting your transmission back
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may
’or information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
;ee “Tire Chains” in the Index. need
to be towed out. If you
do need to be towed out,
see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
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Checking Engine Oil
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push
it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need
to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the
right kind. This part explains what kind
of oil to use. For
crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications”
in the Index.
I NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so
much oil that the oil level gets above the upper
mark that shows the proper operating range,
your engine could be damaged.
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Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready
to advise
if you think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity
maintenance schedule:
0
0
0
0
0
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving
in stop-and-go traffic).
Most trips are through dusty areas.
You frequently tow
a trailer or use a carrier on top of
your vehicle.
The vehicle
is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil
to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need
to change your oil and filter
every
3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever
occurs first. If
none of them is true, use the long
trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (1 2 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed
engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to
break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain
elements that may be unhealthy for your
skin and could
even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin
for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and
,! I!
water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw
away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See
the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal
of oil products.)
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil
from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil
by putting it in the trash, pouring
it on the ground, into
sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead,
recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If
you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil,
ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling
center for help.
k
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