trailer GMC SAVANA 2003 Owner's Guide

Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:
The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper. Do not use a ball hitch, because it could pull
the bumper loose.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 4,000 lbs (1 800 kg), be sure to use
a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and
sway control of the proper size. This equipment is
very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?If you’re using the wiring provided by the factory-installed
hitch, you should not need to make any holes in the body
of your vehicle. However, if you have an aftermarket hitch
installed, you may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you
remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your
vehicle. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your
rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes–and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system, except:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the
trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic
inch (0.3 cc) ofuid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work
well. You could even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of
pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not
be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the
brakeuid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sendsuid to the rear brakes. But don’t use
copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and
nally break off. Use double-walled steel tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. See“Engine
Exhaust”in the Index. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
•Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
•Keep the rear-most windows closed.
•If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum
air because it only recirculates the air
inside your vehicle. See“Climate
Controls”in the Index.
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signalasher (included
in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel willash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will alsoash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel willash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-26.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the
curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmissionuid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help yound them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes
a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear of the
vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly under the
left hand side of the instrument panel. The seven-wire
harness assembly is taped together and located in
a frame pocket at the driver side rear left corner of the
frame. The seven-wire harness includes a 30-amp
feed wire. Both harnesses come without connectors and
should be wired by a qualied electrical technician.
The technician can use the following color code chart
when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer
and trailer brake controller.Seven-Wire HarnessLight Green: Back-up lamps
Brown: Parking lamps
Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
Orange: Trailer accessory
White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)
Black: Ground
Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed
Light Blue: Fused Stop/CHMSL
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When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these are true for you, use the short
trip/city maintenance schedule:
•Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
•Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
•You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top
of your vehicle.
•The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil andfilter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months—whichever
occursfirst.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil andfilter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months—whichever
occursfirst. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine
under highway conditions will cause engine oil to
break down slower.
How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE
OIL Light
The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your
engine oil andfilter based on vehicle use. Anytime your
oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when
the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where
you chang your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL light
being turned on, reset the system.
To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL light, do the
following:
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off.
2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal
three times withinfive seconds.
3. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL lightflashes for
five seconds, the system is reset.
If the system does not reset, try the procedure once
again. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for
service.
SeeChange Engine Oil Light on page 3-37.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmissionfluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both thefluid andfilter every 50,000 miles
(83,000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if
the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
•In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
•In hilly or mountainous terrain.
•When doing frequent trailer towing.
•Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do
not use your vehicle under any of these conditions,
change thefluid andfilter every 100,000 miles
(166 000 km).
SeePart A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on
page 6-4.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too littlefluid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of thefluid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting afire.
Too littlefluid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmissionfluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmissionfluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic–especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.
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Notice:If your engine catchesfire because you keep
driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly
damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. See“Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode”in the Index for information on
driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
•Tow a trailer. See“Driving on Grades”inTowing a
Trailer on page 4-31.If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL(N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL(N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, and you have not stopped,
pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you’re parked. If you still have the warning,turn off the
engine and get everyone out of the vehicleuntil it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins toflow out of the
filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions,
the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as
the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an
increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra
shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
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