tow GMC SAVANA PASSENGER 2009 Workshop Manual

Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer
attached can be dangerous. If something goes
wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be
injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a
flat surface.
If parking the rig on a hill:
1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift the
transmission into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into
the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing
uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking
brake and shift into P (Park).
5. Release the brake pedal.
Leaving After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:
•start the engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a
trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule
or Index for more information. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission
fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system
and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect
these before and during the trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-39

A. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-39.
B. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-31.
C. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System on
page 5-24.
D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-34.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-36.
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-35.Engine Oil
For diesel engine vehicles, see “Engine Oil” in the
DURAMAX®Diesel manual.
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each
fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must
be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the
oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in P (PARK).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position
the shift lever in P (PARK).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
is located near the center
of the engine compartment
and will be labeled with
the graphic shown.SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area
for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick
pointed down to get an accurate reading.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-23

If Steam Is Coming From The Engine
Compartment
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you
badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away
from the engine if you see or hear steam coming
from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from
the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no
sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is overheated,
the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could
be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats,
and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
If No Steam Is Coming From The
Engine Compartment
If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam
can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when the vehicle:
•Climbs a long hill on a hot day.
•Stops after high-speed driving.
•Idles for long periods in traffic.
•Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-28.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of
steam:
1. Turn the air off.
2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and
to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let
the engine idle.
5-32

If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the
overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer
displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive
the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe
vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the
warning does not come back on, continue to drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice
as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off the engine until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday
driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the
clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and
should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or
making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
5-33

SeeInflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63and
Loading the Vehicle on page 4-18. Make certain
that all wheel nuts are properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” underCapacities
and Specifications on page 5-110.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-80.
If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS), reset the TPMS sensors after
rotating the tires. SeeTire Pressure Monitor
Operation on page 5-66.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely.
Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire.
If it moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a
Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-94.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
influence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it
is time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which appear
when your tires have only
1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less
of tread remaining.
Some commercial truck tires, including Goodyear
LT225/75R16 G949 RSA and Goodyear LT225/75R16
G933 RSD, may not have treadwear indicators.
If the tires do not have treadwear indicators, replace
the tires when the tread depth is down to 1/8 inch
(3.2 mm) for the front tires, or 1/16 inch (1.6 mm)
for the rear tires.
5-72

Notice:If your vehicle does not have dual
wheels and has a tire size other than P245/70R17 or
LT245/75R16, use tire chains only where legal and
only when you must. Use chains that are the proper
size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear
axle. Do not use chains on the tires of the front axle.
Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends
securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them. If the contact continues, slow down until it
stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak
out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would use
in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack
is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for
changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else,
you or others could be badly injured or killed if the
vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with
the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
5-79

1. Assemble the wheel wrench (G) to one or two of
the jack handle extensions and the hoist extension.
Insert the hoist extension end through the hole
in the rear bumper.
2. Be sure the hoist extension end connects to the
hoist shaft (E). The chiseled end of the extension
is used to lower the spare tire.
3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the
wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out
from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to
lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on page 5-91.4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward
you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up
through the wheel opening.
If you have a vehicle which was completed from a
cab and chassis, refer to the information from
body supplier/installer.
The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires
on the vehicle.
5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
5-83

{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which
it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after time. The wheel could come off and cause an
accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust
or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper
towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-80.8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
5-88

9. Put the wheel nuts
back on with the
rounded end of the
nuts toward the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
{CAUTION:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If all
the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can come
off the vehicle, causing a crash. All wheel nuts
must be properly tightened. Follow the rules in this
section to be sure they are.
{CAUTION:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break.
If all the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could
come off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes have
become larger or distorted in any way. Inspect hubs
and hub-piloted wheels for damage. Because of
loose running wheels, piloting pad damage may
occur and require replacement of the entire hub,
for proper centering of the wheels. When replacing
studs, hubs, wheel nuts or wheels, be sure to use
GM original equipment parts.
5-89