tires GMC SIERRA 1995 Owners Manual

Don’t pause in NEUTRAL (N) as you shift the transfer case into 4-WHEEL
LOW (4L), or your gears could clash.
Remember that driving in
&WHEEL HIGH (4H) or 4-WHEEL LOW (4L) may
reduce fuel economy.
Also, driving in four-wheel drive on dry pavement could
cause your tires
to wear faster and make your transfer case harder to shift.
Front Axle Locking Feature
The front axle locks and unlocks automatically when you shift the transfer
case. Some delay for the axle to lock or unlock is normal. If the outside
temperature is very hot, or the vehicle has been used under hard driving
conditions, there may be a slight delay for the axle to unlock.
Windows
To open your manual
windows, turn the
hand crank on each
door to raise or lower
your side door
windows.
If you have the
optional power
windows, the controls
are on each of the side
doors.
The driver’s door has a switch for the passenger windows as well.
Your power
windows will work when the ignition has been turned to ACC or RUN.
Push the rear
of the switch with the power window symbol on it to lower the
window.
Push the front of the switch with the power window symbol on
it to raise the
window.
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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No
amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be
careful” isn’t
the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take
sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a
moderate
BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the
collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t
know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make
crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cQrd or heart.
This means that when anyone who has been drinking
- driver or passenger
- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled
is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go.
They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have
to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
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Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of
those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you
can lose control of your vehicle.
Braking
Braking action involves perception tinze and reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time.
Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.
Average reuction tinze is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It
might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more
with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight
all play
a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a
second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (1 00 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That
could be
a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space
between your vehicle and others is important.
And,
of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the
road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry,
icy); tire tread; and the condition
of your brakes.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts - heavy
acceleration followed by heavy braking
- rather than keeping pace with
traffic. This is
a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do
a lot of heavy
braking. If you keep pace with
the traffic and allow realistic following
distances, you will eliminate
a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better
braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t
pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If
your engine stops, you will still have
some power brake assist. But you will
use
it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer
to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.
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Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up
to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you
won’t have time
to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though
you have
anti-lock brakes.
To Use Anti-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock
work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some
noise, but this is normal. On vehicles
with four-wheel drive, your anti-lock
brakes work at all times
- whether you are in two-wheel drive or
four-wheel drive.
Braking in Emergencies
Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you
can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can
help you more than even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is
not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control’’ accidents mentioned on the news happen
on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of
us is subject to the same laws of
physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road
surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels.
If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in
the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer
a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll
understand this.
The traction
you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re
in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
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Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly
accelerate.
Both control systems - steering and acceleration - have to do
their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration
can demand too much of those places. You can lose control.
What should you do if
this ever happens‘? Ease up on the accelerator pedal,
steer the vehicle the way you want
it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed.
Of
course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions.
Under less fivorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as
you approach a curve, do it before you
enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.
Try
to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wdit to accelerate until you are out of the curve,
and then accelerate gently
into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For
example, you come over a
hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car
suddenly
pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked
cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by
braking
- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t
room. That’s the time for evasive action
- steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very
well in emergencies like these. First apply
your brakes. (See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier
in this section.) It is
better to remove
as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space
available.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you
are holding the steering wheel at the recommended
9 and 3 o’clock
positions, you can turn
it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing
either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly
straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.
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Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.
Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.
0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the
brake lights are
not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get
ahead
of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where the tires meet the road
to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited
to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering in
a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And
in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot
off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle
to go. If you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for
a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on
the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving on a surface
with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration. or braking (including engine braking
by
shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle
is skidding.
Learn
to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed
snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
Remember:
Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking
skid.
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A CAUTION:
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Cargo on the load floor piled higher than the seatbacks can be
thrown forward during a sudden stop.
You or your passengers
could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.
Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be tossed about when
driving over rough terrain.
You or your passengers can be
struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.
Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity,
making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or
fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside
the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area
as far forward and low as possible.
You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle
Loading,” “Luggage Carrier” and “Tires”
in the Index.
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area.
Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad
surprises. Get accurate maps
of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any
blocked or closed roads.
It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something
happens to one of them, the other can help quickly.
Does your vehicle have a winch‘?
If so, be sure to read the winch
instructions. In
a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But
you’ll want to know how to use it properly.
Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving
It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before
you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and
different driving
skills. Here’s what we mean.
Tune your senses to different kinds
of signals. Your eyes, for example, need
to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to
listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and
body you’ll need
to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.
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Driving Across an Incline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill.
If this happens, you have to decide whether to
try to drive across the incline.
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Here are some things to consider:
A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive
across. When you go straight up or down
a hill, the length of the wheel
base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the
likelihood the vehicle
will tumble end over end. But when you drive
across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance
between
the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from
tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more
weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or
a
rollover.
Surface conditions can be
a problem when you drive across a hill.
Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to
slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit
something that will trip
it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.
Hidden obstacles can make the steepness
of the incline even worse. If
you drive across
a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill
wheels drop into a
rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.
For reasons like these,
you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive
across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean
you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.
A CAUTION:
Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your v\
ehicle
roll over.
You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have
any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive a\
cross
it. Find another route instead.
0: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit
some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should
I do?
A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This
should help straighten
out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping.
However, a much better way
to prevent this is to get out and “walk the
course”
so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.
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Stalling on an lncline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your
passengers) get out on the uphill side,
even if the door there is harder to
open.
If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you’ll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take
if it does roll over.
1 A CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across
an incline is dangerous.
If the vehicle rolls over, you could be
crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear
of the rollover path.
Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need
longer braking distances.
It’s best
to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the
lower
the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you‘ll sense
a change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand
is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and braking.
You may want to reduce the air
pressure in your tires slightly when driving
on sand. This will improve
traction.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces,
it’s very easy
to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
A CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous.
Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws
can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
Driving In Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before
you drive through it. If it’s deep
enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try
it - you
probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can darnage your axle and
other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through
it slowly. At fast speeds, water
splashes
on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When
you go through
water, remember that when your brakes get wet,
it may take you longer to
stop.
A CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water
can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your
passengers could drown.
If it’s only inches deep, it can still wash
away the ground
from under your tires, and you could lose
l traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing
water.
If you have a diesel engme, see “Driving Through Water (Diesel Engines)”
in the Index for more information on driving through water.
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