steering GMC SIERRA 2001 Owner's Guide

4-24 Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill,
you need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the
steering wheel.

Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Don't use more power than you need,
because you don't want your wheels to start spinning
or sliding.

Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.
If the path twists and turns, you might want to
find another route.
CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways,
and possibly roll over. You could be seriously
injured or killed. When driving up hills,
always try to go straight up.

Ease up on your speed as you approach the top
of the hill.

Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible
to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you're there.

Use your headlamps even during the day. They make
you more visible to oncoming traffic.
CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed
can cause an accident. There could be a drop
-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle.
You could be seriously injured or killed. As you
near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

4-25
Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about
to stall, and I can't make it up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here's what you should do:

Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and
keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the
parking brake.

If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

If your engine has stopped running, you'll need
to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL (N) if your
vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the
engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the
parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as
straight as possible in REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position.
This way, you'll be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down. It's best
that you back down the hill with your wheels straight
rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the
wheel too far to the left or right will increase the
possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things you must not do if you stall,
or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or depressing the clutch, if you
have a manual transmission) to ªrev
-upº the
engine and regain forward momentum. This won't
work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly
and you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the
vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.

Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough
to stall your vehicle, it's steep enough to cause you
to roll over if you turn around. If you can't make it
up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

4-30 Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you'll need
longer braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice.
Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you
and your passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.

4-31
If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you'll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that when
your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown.
If it's only shallow water, it can still wash away
the ground from under your tires, and you could
lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations
can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off
-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.

4-42
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32F; 0C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
'If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
fine until you hit a spot that's covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you're actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.

4-46 Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission,
or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission. You or others could be injured.
Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before
you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.
Use the following procedure to correctly tow your
vehicle on all four wheels:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),
or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.
4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N).
See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index for the
proper procedure to select the neutral position for
your vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain as long
as the IGN 0 fuse is removed. Unlocking the steering
column will allow the proper movement of the front
wheels and tires during towing.

4-74
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very
warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be
affected by high ambient temperatures.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move
your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

5-2
Hazard Warning Flashers
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They
also let police know you have a problem. Your front and
rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.
Press the button located
at the top of the steering
column all the way down
to make your front and
rear turn signal lamps
flash on and off.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what
position your key is in, and even if the key isn't in.
To turn off the flashers, press the button until the
first click and release.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn
signals won't work.
Other Warning Devices
If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to
warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about
300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

5-18
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-35 Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a
four
-wheel drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. If your vehicle
has the Traction Assist System, you should turn it off
by pressing the TAS on/off button. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning
your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you
will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn't get you out after a few tries, you may
need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery
hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be
towed out, see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks.
The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your
vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck
off
-road and need to be pulled to some place where
you can continue driving.