steering GMC SIERRA 2005 Owner's Guide

{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a
vehicle stopped across an incline is
dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could
be crushed or killed. Always get out on the
uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well
clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels will
not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer
braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as
on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink
into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed
and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs,
axles or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will
not get through. Also, water that deep can damage
your axle and other vehicle parts.
4-33

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long
as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be
able to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your
vehicle downstream and you and your
passengers could drown. If it is only shallow
water, it can still wash away the ground from
under your tires, and you could lose traction
and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through
rushing water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-36for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
4-34

shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or
under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags,
rags, oor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
4-46

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need
to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help
you get out when you are stuck, but you must use
caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-90.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. If your
vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you should turn
it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1)
or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free
your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a
few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can
use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you
do need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle
on page 4-62.
4-48

4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-37for the proper
procedure to select the neutral position for
your vehicle.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition off and leave the steering column
unlocked.
Dolly Towing
Front Towing (Front Wheels Off
the Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the
rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, you must tow
the vehicle with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear
Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this
section for more information.
4-64

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly.
2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P), or a
manual transmission to FIRST (1).
3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.4. Firmly set the parking brake.
5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to
the tow dolly.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-37for the proper
procedure to select the neutral position for
your vehicle.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition off and lock the steering column.
4-65

Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission
to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too
often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if
the transmission shifts too often. SeeTow/Haul Mode
Light on page 3-49.
4-89

Service............................................................5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-5
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle...........................................5-6
Fuel................................................................5-6
Gasoline Octane............................................5-6
Gasoline Specications....................................5-7
California Fuel...............................................5-7
Additives.......................................................5-7
Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol).................................5-8
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-9
Filling Your Tank..........................................5-10
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-12
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-12
Hood Release..............................................5-13
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-14
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)..........................5-20
Engine Oil Life System (Gasoline Engine)........5-23
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-25
Automatic Transmission Fluid
(Except Allison Transmission
®) ....................5-27
Automatic Transmission Fluid
(Allison Transmission
®) ...............................5-30
Manual Transmission Fluid.............................5-33
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-34Engine Coolant.............................................5-35
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-37
Engine Overheating.......................................5-37
Overheated Engine Protection Operating
Mode (V8 Engines Only)............................5-39
Cooling System............................................5-40
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-45
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-46
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-48
Brakes........................................................5-49
Battery........................................................5-52
Jump Starting...............................................5-53
Rear Axle.......................................................5-58
Four-Wheel Drive............................................5-58
Front Axle......................................................5-60
Noise Control System.....................................5-61
Tampering with Noise Control System
Prohibited.................................................5-61
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-62
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-62
Headlamps..................................................5-63
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps.............................5-64
Roof Marker Lamps......................................5-65
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

Hood Release
To open the hood do the following:
1. Pull the handle located
inside the vehicle to
the lower left of
the steering wheel.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on
the secondary hood release located near the
center of the grille.
3. Lift the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the ller caps
are on properly. Then pull down the hood and close
it rmly.
5-13

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.
B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 5-35andCoolant Surge Tank
Pressure Cap on page 5-37.
C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission
®)
on page 5-27orAutomatic Transmission Fluid
(Allison Transmission
®) on page 5-30.
F. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (If Equipped). See
Cooling System on page 5-40.
G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20.H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-46.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-53.
J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-53.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-49.
L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). SeeHydraulic
Clutch on page 5-34.
M. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse Block
on page 5-125.
N. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-52.
O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-48.
5-15