light GMC SIERRA 2008 Owner's Manual

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red
cloth, and reective warning triangles. And, if you will be
driving under severe conditions, include a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-66.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
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To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could
free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle
out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out.
Or, you can use recovery hooks, if your vehicle
has them. If your vehicle does need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-50.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle.
The hooks could break off and you or others
could be injured from the chain or cable
snapping back.Notice:Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would
not be covered by warranty.
For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the
vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3), or FOURTH (4)
with the Allison or Hydra-matic 6-speed
transmissions, or if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often, such
as under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-53.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The weight on your vehicle’s tires
Tow/Haul Mode
Press this button at the end
of the shift lever to enable/
disable the tow/haul mode.
Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load. SeeTow/Haul Mode
on page 2-34for more information.
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Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the
vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent
of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).
See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul
is most useful under the following driving conditions:
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load
through rolling terrain.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load
in stop and go traffic.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load
in busy parking lots where improved low speed
control of the vehicle is desired.
Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded
or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However,
there is no benet to the selection of Tow/Haul when
the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded
may result in unpleasant engine and transmission
driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy.
Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
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The hitch should be located in the pickup bed so that it’s
centerline is over or slightly in front of the rear axle. Take
care that it is not so far forward that it will contact the back
of the cab in sharp turns. This is especially important for
short box pickups. Trailer pin box extensions and sliding
fth wheel hitch assemblies can help this condition. There
should be at least six inches of clearance between the top
of the pickup box and the bottom of the trailer shelf that
extends over the box.
Make sure the hitch is attached to the tow vehicle frame
rails. Do not use the pickup box for support.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. If you
are towing a trailer up to 5,000 lbs (2 271 kg) with a
factory-installed step bumper, you may attach the safety
chains to the attaching points on the bumper. If you are
towing a trailer up to your vehicle’s trailer rating limit you
may attach the safety chains to the attaching point on the
hitch platform. If you are towing with an aftermarket hitch
follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation
for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak
®, your trailer
cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to lower gear selection if the transmission
shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. SeeTow/Haul Mode
Light on page 3-53.
When towing at high elevation on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant at higher
elevations will boil at a lower temperature than at or
near sea level. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high elevation on steep uphill grades,
your vehicle may show signs similar to engine
overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while
parked, preferably on level ground, with the transmission
in PARK (P) at least ve minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on page 5-30.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine
Shift into a gear
Release the parking brake
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance (Gasoline
Engine) on page 6-4for more information. Things
that are especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid (don’t overll), engine oil,
axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you nd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these sections before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following wiring
harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling a slide-in
camper.
Basic Trailer Wiring
All regular, extended cab and crew cab pickups have a
seven-wire trailer towing harness.
For vehicles not equipped with heavy duty trailering, the
harness is clipped to the vehicle’s frame behind the
spare tire mount. The harness requires the installation
of a trailer connector, which is available through
your dealer.
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, you can also get an
adapter from your dealer.
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Heavy-DutyTrailer Wiring Harness
Package
For vehicles equipped with heavy duty trailering, the
harness is connected to a bracket on the hitch platform.
The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed*
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake**The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the
underhood electrical center, but the wires are not
connected. They should be connected by your dealer or
a qualied service center. The fuse and wire for the
ITBC is factory installed and connected if the vehicle is
equipped with an ITBC. The fuse for the battery
feed is not required if your vehicle has an auxiliary
battery. If your vehicle does not have an auxiliary
battery, have your dealer or authorized service center
install the required fuse.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press
the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the
shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and
properly charge the battery. If the trailer is too light for
tow/haul mode, you can turn on the headlamps as
a second way to boost the vehicle system and charge
the battery.
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Camper/Fifth-Wheel Trailer Wiring Package
The seven-wire camper harness is located under the
front edge of the pickup box on the driver’s side of the
vehicle, attached to the frame bracket. A connector
will have to be added to the wiring harness which
connects to the camper.
The harness contains the following camper/trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer BrakeIf your vehicle is equipped with the “Heavy-Duty
Trailering” option, please refer to “Heavy-Duty Trailer
Wiring Package” earlier in this section.
When the camper-wiring harness is ordered without the
heavy-duty trailering package, an eight-wire harness
with a seven-pin connector is located at the rear of the
vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame.
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