tires GMC SIERRA 2008 Owner's Guide

After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.Night driving tips include:
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because your headlamps can only
light up so much road ahead.
Watch for animals.
When tired, pull off the road.
Do not wear sunglasses.
Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But,
as we get older, these differences increase. A
50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or owing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake
pedal until the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. Driving through owing water could
cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this
happens, you and other vehicle occupants
could drown. Do not ignore police warnings
and be very cautious about trying to drive
through owing water.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
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Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
Allow extra following distance.
Pass with caution.
Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
Keep the windshield washer uid reservoir lled.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-66.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having
it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing.
Things to check on your own include:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Reservoir full? Windows
clean — inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:All levels checked?
Lamps:Do they all work and are lenses clean?
Tires:Are treads good? Are tires inated to
recommended pressure?
Weather and Maps:Safe to travel? Have up-to-date
maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings
while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, nd a
safe place to park your vehicle and rest.
Other driving tips include:
Keep the vehicle well ventilated.
Keep interior temperature cool.
Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead
and to the sides.
Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments
often.
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Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down
to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down and they
could get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have the engine running and your
vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving on page 4-12for information
about driving off-road.
4-30

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red
cloth, and reective warning triangles. And, if you will be
driving under severe conditions, include a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-66.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-90.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive
vehicles, shift into Four-Wheel High. For vehicles
with StabiliTrak
®, turn the traction control part of the
system off. SeeStabiliTrak®System on page 4-6. Then
shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
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The Tire and Loading Information label also shows
the size of the original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire ination pressures (D).
For more information on tires and ination see
Tires on page 5-66andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-74.
There is also important loading information on the
vehicle Certication/Tire label. It tells you the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and
the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the
front and rear axles. See “Certication/Tire Label”
later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1.Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2.Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your
vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4.The resulting gure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity.
For example, if the “XXX” amount equals
1400 lbs and there will be ve 150 lb
passengers in your vehicle, the amount of
available cargo and luggage load capacity is
650 lbs (1400−750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5.Determine the combined weight of luggage
and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That
weight may not safely exceed the available
cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in
Step 4.
6.If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your
vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how
this reduces the available cargo and luggage
load capacity of your vehicle. SeeTowing
a Trailer on page 4-55for important
information on towing a trailer, towing safety
rules and trailering tips.
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Item Description Total
AVehicle Capacity
Weight for
Example 3=1,000 lbs
(453 kg)
BSubtract Occupant
Weight 200 lbs
(91 kg)×5=1000 lbs
(453 kg)
CAvailable Cargo
Weight=0 lbs (0 kg)Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information
label for specic information about your vehicle’s
capacity weight and seating positions. The
combined weight of the driver, passengers, and
cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity
weight.
Certication/Tire Label
A vehicle specic Certication/Tire label is found
on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The
label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires
and the ination pressures needed to obtain the
gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
Example 3
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3), or FOURTH (4)
with the Allison or Hydra-matic 6-speed
transmissions, or if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often, such
as under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-53.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The weight on your vehicle’s tires
Tow/Haul Mode
Press this button at the end
of the shift lever to enable/
disable the tow/haul mode.
Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load. SeeTow/Haul Mode
on page 2-34for more information.
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But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with some
of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger
and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and
gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg)
to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear
axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may
think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds
(318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you
must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now
weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The
only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these
ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
see Loading Your Vehicle for more information. Then
be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer
tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure
you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
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