GMC SIERRA 2010 Owner's Manual

Different Size Tires and Wheels
If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than
your original equipment wheels and tires, this could
affect the way your vehicle performs, including its
braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and
resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has
electronic systems such as anti‐lock brakes, rollover
airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control,
the performance of these systems can be affected.
{WARNING:
If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle
may not provide an acceptable level of
performance and safety if tires not recommended
for those wheels are selected. You may increase
the chance that you will crash and suffer serious
injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire
systems developed for your vehicle, and have
them properly installed by a GM certified
technician.
See Buying New Tires
on page 6‑83andAccessories
and Modificationson page 6‑4for additional
information.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Quality grades can be found where applicable on
the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and
maximum section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA
Temperature A
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA),
which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and
temperature performance. This applies only to
vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are
molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car
tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG)
system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type
snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use
spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of
10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some
limited-production tires.
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While the tires available on General Motors
passenger cars and light trucks may vary with
respect to these grades, they must also conform
to federal safety requirements and additional
General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC)
standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating
based on the wear rate of the tire when tested
under controlled conditions on a specified
government test course. For example, a tire
graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times
as well on the government course as a tire
graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart significantly from the
norm due to variations in driving habits, service
practices, and differences in road characteristics
and climate.
Traction–AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest,
are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent
the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as
measured under controlled conditions on specified
government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.
A tire marked C may have poor traction
performance.
Temperature –A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B,
and C, representing the tire's resistance to the
generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat
when tested under controlled conditions on a
specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained
high temperature can cause the material of the
tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and
excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire
failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of
performance which all passenger car tires must
meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent
higher levels of performance on the laboratory
test wheel than the minimum required by law.
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It should be noted that the temperature grade for
this tire is established for a tire that is properly
inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed,
underinflation, or excessive loading, either
separately or in combination, can cause heat
buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and
balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest
tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to
wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be
necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice
unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or
the other, the alignment might need to be checked.
If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a
smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be
rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper
diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly
rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose,
the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be
replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some
aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired).
See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel
you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the
same way as the one it replaces.
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If you need to replace any of the wheels, wheel bolts,
wheel nuts or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS)
sensors, replace them only with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors
for the vehicle.
{WARNING:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts,
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you
lose control. You could have a collision in which
you or others could be injured. Always use the
correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for
replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems
with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height,
vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain
clearance to the body and chassis. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced
on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
of driving. For proper torque, see
“Wheel Nut Torque”
under Capacities and Specifications on page 6‑126.
See Changing a Flat Tire
on page 6‑90for more
information.
Used Replacement Wheels
{WARNING:
Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous.
You cannot know how it has been used or how far
it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and
cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use
a new GM original equipment wheel.
6-88

Tire Chains
{WARNING:
If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265/65R18,
P275/55R20 or LT265/70R17 size tires, do not
use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle
because there is not enough clearance. Tire
chains used on a vehicle without the proper
amount of clearance can cause damage to the
brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The
area damaged by the tire chains could cause you
to lose control of your vehicle and you or others
may be injured in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if its
manufacturer recommends it for use on your
vehicle and tire size combination and road
conditions. Follow that manufacturer's
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the
device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not
spin your vehicle's wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install
them on the rear tires.Notice:
If your vehicle does not have dual
wheels and has a tire size other than P265/65R18,
P275/55R20 or LT265/70R17, use tire chains only
where legal and only when you must. Use chains
that are the proper size for your tires. Install them
on the tires of the rear axle. Do not use chains on
the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as
possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive
slowly and follow the chain manufacturer's
instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting
your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact
continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast
or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage
your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle's tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
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A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{WARNING:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the
appropriate safety equipment and training. If a
jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed
only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for
anything else, you or others could be badly
injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a
jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for
changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard
warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers
on
page 4‑3.
{WARNING:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or
other people. You and they could be badly injured
or even killed. Find a level place to change your
tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in P (Park), or shift a manual transmission to
1 (First) or R (Reverse).
(Continued)
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WARNING: (Continued)
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be surethe transfer case is in a drive gear –not in
N (Neutral).
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised.
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle will not move,
put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest
away from the one being changed. That would be
the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of
the vehicle. When the vehicle has a flat tire (B), use the following
example as a guide to assist you in the placement of
wheel blocks (A).
A. Wheel Block
B. Flat Tire
The following information explains how to use the jack
and change a tire.
6-91

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
Crew Cab
A. Wing Nut Retaining Tool Kit
B. Tool Kit
C. Wheel Blocks D. Jack
E. Jack Knob F. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks
Regular Cab
A. Wing Nut Retaining Tool Kit
B. Tool Kit
C. Wheel Blocks D. Jack
E. Jack Knob F. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks
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Extended Cab
A. Wing Nut Retaining Tool Kit
B. Tool Kit
C. Wheel Blocks D. Jack
E. Jack Knob For regular cab models, the equipment you will need is
behind the passenger's seat. For extended and crew
cab models, the equipment is on the shelf behind the
passenger's side second row seat.
1. Turn the knob on the jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head to release the jack from its
holder.
2. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.
3. Remove the wing nut used to retain the storage bag and tools by turning it counterclockwise.
You will use the jack handle extensions and the wheel
wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.
6-93

A. Spare Tire(Valve Stem
Pointed Down)
B. Hoist Assembly
C. Hoist Cable
D. Tire/Wheel Retainer
E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of
Extension Tool
G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole
H. Wheel Wrench
I. Jack Handle Extensions
J. Spare Tire Lock (If equipped) 1. Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and
use the ignition key to remove the spare tire
lock (J). To remove the spare tire lock, insert the
ignition key turn and pull straight out.
2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack
handle extensions (I) as shown.
6-94