towing GMC SONOMA 2003 Owner's Guide

Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signalasher.
The arrows on your instrument panel willash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will alsoash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel willash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize
heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
Or, if you have a manual transmission, it’s better not to
use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you
need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P)
(or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking
brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning,
seeEngine Overheating on page 5-28.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn
your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
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4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P),
or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with an
automatic transfer case, be sure the transfer case
is in a drive gear–not in NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeePart A: Scheduled Maintenance
Services on page 6-4for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are automatic
transmissionuid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle
lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help yound them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmissionfluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both thefluid andfilter every 15,000 miles
(25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one
or more of these conditions:
•In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
•In hilly or mountainous terrain.
•When doing frequent trailer towing.
•Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change thefluid andfilter every
50,000 miles (83 000 km).
SeePart A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
on page 6-4.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too littleuid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of theuid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting are.
Too littleuid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmissionuid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmissionfluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic–especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, thefluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°Fto200°F
(82°Cto93°C)
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
•Tow a trailer. See“Driving on Grades”under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-51.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three
minutes while you’re parked. Push down the accelerator
until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal
idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked.
If you still have the warning,turn off the engine and get
everyone out of the vehicleuntil it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through thefiller neck until the level reaches
the base of thefiller neck.8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins toflow out of the
filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
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1. To remove it, turn the plastic wing nut
counterclockwise. Remove the jack cover.
2. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove the
wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.
Notice:Never remove or restow a tire from/to a
stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle
is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle when
restowing.3. Insert the chisel end
of the wheel wrench,
on an angle, into
the hole in the rear
bumper.
Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench
connects into the hoist shaft.
4. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until
the spare tire can be pulled out from under the
vehicle.
5. When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the
retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through
the wheel opening.
6. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
If your vehicle is equipped with a compact spare
tire, it is stowed underneath the rear of your vehicle.
SeeCompact Spare Tire on page 5-78for more
information about the compact spare.
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Every 150 000 Miles (240 000 km):Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs
first). Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
Long Trip/Highway Definition
Follow this scheduled maintenanceonlyif none of the
conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the
vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area
or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City
schedule for these conditions
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under
highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down
slower.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km):Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs
first). Chassis Lubrication (or 12 months, whichever
occursfirst). Drive Axle Service. Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km):Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Inspection. Automatic Transmission Service
(severe conditions only).Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km):Fuel Filter
Replacement (4.3L V6 engine only). Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Replacement. Front Wheel Bearing Repack
(two-wheel drive only) (or at each brake relining,
whichever occursfirst).
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km):Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions).
Every 90,000 Miles (150 000 km):Fuel Filter
Replacement (2200 L4 engine only).
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km):Spark Plug Wire
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. 4.3L V6 Engine
Only: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km):Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs
first). Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
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Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles
(240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of this
vehicle.
SeePart B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-26
andPart C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on
page 6-31.
Footnotes
†The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded.#Lubricate the front suspension, ball joints, steering
linkage, parking brake cable guides, propshaft splines,
universal joints, constant velocity joint and brake
pedal springs.
+A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-32.
**Drive axle service. See Part D: Recommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-33 for proper lubricant to use:
•Check uid level and add uid as needed. If driving in
dusty areas or when towing a trailer, drain uid and
rell every 15,000 miles (25 000 km).
•If your vehicle has a locking differential, drain uid
and rell at rst engine oil change.
•More frequent lubrication may be required for
heavy-duty or off-road use.
3,000 Miles (5 000 km)
❑Change engine oil andfilter (or every 3 months,
whichever occursfirst).An Emission Control Service.
❑Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months,
whichever occursfirst).(See footnote #.)
❑Check rear/front axlefluid level and addfluid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.(See footnote **.)
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❑Change automatic transmissionfluid andfilter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C)
or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or
delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change theuid andlter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km).
18,000 Miles (30 000 km)
❑Change engine oil and lter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs rst).An Emission Control Service.
❑Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs rst).(See footnote #.)
❑Check rear/front axle uid level and add uid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.(See footnote **.)
❑Rotate tires. SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-60for proper rotation pattern and additional
information.(See footnote +.)
21,000 Miles (35 000 km)
❑Change engine oil and lter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs rst).An Emission Control Service.
❑Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs rst).(See footnote #.)
❑Check rear/front axle uid level and add uid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.(See footnote **.)
24,000 Miles (40 000 km)
❑Change engine oil and lter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs rst).An Emission Control Service.
❑Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs rst).(See footnote #.)
❑Check rear/front axle uid level and add uid as
needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals
for leaking.(See footnote **.)
❑Rotate tires. SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-60for proper rotation pattern and additional
information.(See footnote +.)
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