trailer GMC SONOMA 2003 Owner's Guide

Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have
ample room when turning to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg) be sure to
use a properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you’re driving.
If your vehicle has the bumper delete option, do not
bolt any type of hitch to the close-out panel. The
close-out panel will not support a hitch.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. For trailers up to 3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg) you
may attach the safety chains to the attaching points
on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or
hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you
can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brake–and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) ofuid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
uid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sendsuid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend andnally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
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Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signalasher.
The arrows on your instrument panel willash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will alsoash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel willash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize
heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
Or, if you have a manual transmission, it’s better not to
use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you
need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P)
(or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking
brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning,
seeEngine Overheating on page 5-28.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn
your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
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4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P),
or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with an
automatic transfer case, be sure the transfer case
is in a drive gear–not in NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeePart A: Scheduled Maintenance
Services on page 6-4for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are automatic
transmissionuid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle
lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help yound them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol are all you will need for
good performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:
•Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
•Most trips include extensive idling (such as
frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic).
•You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on
top of your vehicle.
•The vehicle is used for delivery service, police,
taxi or other commercial application.Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil andfilter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months—whichever
occursfirst.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil andfilter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months—whichever
occursfirst. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine
under highway conditions will cause engine oil to
break down slower.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmissionfluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both thefluid andfilter every 15,000 miles
(25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one
or more of these conditions:
•In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
•In hilly or mountainous terrain.
•When doing frequent trailer towing.
•Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change thefluid andfilter every
50,000 miles (83 000 km).
SeePart A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
on page 6-4.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too littleuid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of theuid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting are.
Too littleuid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmissionuid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmissionfluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic–especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, thefluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°Fto200°F
(82°Cto93°C)
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
•Tow a trailer. See“Driving on Grades”under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-51.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three
minutes while you’re parked. Push down the accelerator
until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal
idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked.
If you still have the warning,turn off the engine and get
everyone out of the vehicleuntil it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through thefiller neck until the level reaches
the base of thefiller neck.8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins toflow out of the
filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
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Fuse Usage
TRL TRN Trailer Left Turn
TRR TRN Trailer Right Turn
TRL B/U Trailer Back Up Lamps
VEH B/U Vehicle Back Up Lamps
HDLP PWR Headlamp PowerFuse Usage
RT TURN Right Turn Signal Front
LT TURN Left Turn Signal Front
HDLP W/W Not Used
LT TRN Left Turn Signal Rear
RT TRN Right Turn Signal Rear
RR PRK Right Rear Parking Lamps
TRL PRK Trailer Park Lamps
LTHDLP Left Headlamp
RTHDLP Right Headlamp
FRPRK Front Parking Lamps
INT BAT Instrument Panel Fuse Block Feed
ENG I Engine Sensors/Solenoids, MAF,
CAM, PURGE, VENT
ECM B Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump
Module, Oil Pressure
ABS Anti-Lock Brake System
ECM I Engine Control Module Injectors
F/PUMP Fuel Pump
DRL Daytime Running Lamps
A/C Air Conditioning
HORN Horn
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