wheel GMC YUKON 2003 Manual PDF

Driving in Water
Heavy rain can meanashooding, andood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles
or exhaust pipe, don’t try it—you probably won’t
get through. Also, water that deep can damage your
axle and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that
when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer
to stop.{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing
water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-39for
more information on driving through water.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be are hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired—by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
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Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are
going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh—such as after a day’s
work—don’t plan to make too many miles thatrst
part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes
you can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you’llnd experienced and able service experts in GM
dealerships all across North America. They’ll be
ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:Have you checked
all levels?
Lamps:Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires:They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inated to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts:What’s the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a
short time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps:Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as“highway
hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel?
Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with
the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the
road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the
wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t
let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave
the road inless than a second,and you could crash and
be injured.
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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. SeeOff-Road
Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle on
page 4-22for information about driving off-road.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check alluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
{CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going
down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down. They could
get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Always
have your engine running and your vehicle in
gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your
engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill
better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or
cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
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If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will
improve your ability to accelerate when driving on
a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off
if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or
snow. SeeIf You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
on page 4-52. Even though your vehicle has a traction
system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving
to the road conditions. SeeTraction Assist System
(TAS) on page 4-10.
If you don’t have a traction system, accelerate gently.
Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-6.Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might bene
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
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If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as“rocking”can
help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must
use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartmentfire or other damage.
When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-68.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI or 4LO. If
your vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you should
turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. If your
vehicle has the Stabilitrak
®System, turn the
Stabilitrak®System off by pressing the
Stabilitrak®button so that the STABILITY SYSTEM
DISABLED and TRACTION OFF lights are illuminated
on the instrument panel cluster. Then shift back and
forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out
after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you
can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has
them. If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing Your
Vehicle on page 4-54.
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Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle–such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as“dinghy towing”(towing your
vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and“dolly
towing”(towing your vehicle with two wheels on
the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a
“dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. SeeDinghy
TowingandDolly Towing, following.
Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment? See
your dealer or trailering professional for additional
advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be
towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip on
page 4-44.
Dinghy Towing
When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to LOCK.
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Two-wheel-drive vehicles, should not be towed with all
four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles,
they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four
wheels off the ground.
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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26for the proper
procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your
vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed isrmly attached to the following
vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition off.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P). You
or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake isfirmly set before you shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL.
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Dolly Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Two-wheel-drive, vehicles, should not be towed with the
rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed. to properly tow these vehicles,
they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four
wheels off the ground.
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
If your vehicle is equipped with Stabilitrak®it is not
designed to be dolly towed. If you need to tow your
vehicle, see“Dinghy Towing”earlier in this section.
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26for the proper
procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your
vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed isrmly attached to the following
vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition off.{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P). You
or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake isfirmly set before you shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL.
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Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on C/K 1500 vehicles and comes as a part of the
Autoride™suspension.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will provide
a better leveled riding position as well as better handling
under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. An
air compressor connected to the rear shocks will raise or
lower the rear of the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle
height. The system is activated when the ignition key is
turned to RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle height
thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower vehicle
height) for up to ten minutes after the ignition key has
been turned off. You may hear the air compressor
operating when the height is being adjusted.
If a self-equalizing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.
Autoride™
The Autoride™feature will provide a superior vehicle ride
and handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions.The system is fully automatic and uses a computer
controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel to
body position, lift/dive and steering position of the vehicle.
The controller then sends signals to each shock absorber
to independently adjust the damping level to provide the
optimum vehicle ride.
Autoride™also interacts with the tow/haul switch that,
when engaged, will provide additional control of the shock
absorbers. This additional control results in better ride
and handling characteristics when the vehicle is loaded or
towing a trailer. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-52
for more information.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR) for your vehicle. CWR is the
maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It
doesn’t included the weight of the people inside. But you
cangure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total
cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you
won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the
spring bars in place.
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