wheel GMC YUKON 2008 Repair Manual

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels will
not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer
braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do
not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to
sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and
avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
4-24

Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing
water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs,
axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will
not get through. Also, water that deep can damage
your axle and other vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long
as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be
able to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-26for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
4-25

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-86.
4-33

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive
vehicles, shift into Four-Wheel High or Four-Wheel Low.
For vehicles with StabiliTrak
®, turn the traction control
part of the system off. SeeStabiliTrak®System on
page 4-6. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels
as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear,
wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and
press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a
rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does
not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might
need to be towed out. Or, you can use recovery hooks,
if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to
be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-45.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle.
The hooks could break off and you or others
could be injured from the chain or cable
snapping back.
4-34

The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be
found in the lower right corner of the Certication/Tire
label, as shown.In order to calculate the amount of weight any front
accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front
axle, use the following formula:
(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding
to the front axle.
Where:
W = Weight of added accessory
A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the
front axle
W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase United States
Canada
4-43

For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow
actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front
axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm)
in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft
(305 cm), then:
W = 700 lb (318 kg)
A = 4 ft (122 cm)
W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm)
(W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lbs
(445 kg)
So, if your vehicle’s front axle reserve capacity is more
than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow
without exceeding the front GAWR.
You can add heavier equipment on the front of the
vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer
passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards
the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on
the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR, and
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) must never be
exceeded.
{CAUTION:
On some vehicles that have certain front
mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it
may be possible to load the front axle to the
front gross axle weight rating (GAWR) but not
have enough weight on the rear axle to have
proper braking performance. If your brakes can
not work properly, you could have a crash. To
help your brakes work properly when a snow
plow is installed, always follow the snow plow
manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for
rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear
weight distribution ratio, even though the
actual front weight may be less than the front
GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less
than the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR).
Maintaining a proper front and rear weight
distribution ratio is necessary to provide
proper braking performance.
Total vehicle reserve capacity is the difference between
your GVWR and the weight of your vehicle with full
fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can
add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR.
4-44

Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are
intended as a guide when selecting the amount of
equipment or cargo your vehicle can carry. If you are
unsure of your vehicle’s front, rear, or total weight, go to
a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your
dealer/retailer can also help you with this.
The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle can
be found in the lower right corner of the Certication/Tire
label as shown previously.
See your dealer/retailer for additional advice and
information about using a snow plow on your vehicle.
Also, seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.
Emergency Roof Lamp Provisions
Vehicles with the RPO VYU snow plow prep package
also have an emergency roof lamp provision package,
RPO TRW. Wiring for the emergency roof lamp is
provided above the overhead console. SeeAuxiliary
Roof Mounted Lamp on page 3-19for switch location.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing
service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed.
SeeRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing,
towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”.
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following.
4-45

Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be
towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip on
page 4-28.
Dinghy Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Do not tow a
two-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the
ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all
four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
4-46

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
3. Firmly set the parking brake.
4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P).
You or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake is rmly set before you shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-38for the proper
procedure to select the NEUTRAL (N) position for
your vehicle.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition off.
4-47

Dolly Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the
rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be towed on a dolly with
the front wheels on the ground provided that the
wheels are straight.
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Four-wheel-drive vehicles are not designed to be dolly
towed. If you need to tow your vehicle, see “Dinghy
Towing” earlier in this section.
Level Control
Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive light-duty
vehicles and comes as a part of the Autoride
®
suspension, if equipped.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will
provide a better leveled riding position as well as better
handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear
shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle
to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is
activated when the ignition key is turned to RUN and
will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter.
The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to
ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off.
You may hear the air compressor operating when
the height is being adjusted.
If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.
4-48