tires GMC YUKON DENALI 2003 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: GMC, Model Year: 2003, Model line: YUKON DENALI, Model: GMC YUKON DENALI 2003Pages: 447, PDF Size: 21.97 MB
Page 267 of 447

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect
to
move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move
to the
proper lane well in advance.
If you miss your exit, do
not, under any circumstances,
stop and back up. Drive
on
to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according
to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are
going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh
- such as after a day’s
work
- don’t plan to make too many miles that first
part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes
you can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready
to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service experts
in dealerships all across North America. They’ll be
ready and willing
to help if you need it. dere
are some things you can check before a trip:
e
e
e
e e
e
e
Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservior full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important
to a safe,
trouble-free trip.
Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a
short time
to avoid a major storm system?
Maps:
Do you have up-to-date maps?
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Page 268 of 447

Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway
hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel?
Call it highway hypnosis, lack
of awareness, or
whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with
the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the
road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the
wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t
let
it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave
the road in less than a second, and you could crash and
be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be
aware that
it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and
comfortably
cool interior.
to the sides. Check your mirrors and your
instruments frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,
service or parking area and take a nap, get some
exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness
on the highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain.
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Operating
Your All- Wheel-Drive Vehicle
Off Paved Roads on
page
4- 16 for information about driving off-road.
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Page 269 of 447

0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift
to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
_. you c tt : ft down, your brakes could get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going down
a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on
a steep
downhill slope.
L,ast,,,, ,ownh,,, NEUTrlmL (N) or with the
ignition
off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work
of slowing down. They could
get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You
would then have poor braking
or even none
going down
a hill. You could crash. Always
have your engine running and your vehicle in
gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your
engine and transmission, and you can climb the
hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or
cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or
an accident.
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Page 271 of 447

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However,
if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a
lot less traction or “grip” and will need to
be very careful.
27
3
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
4-38
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing
(32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate
too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. See Braking on page
4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake
while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
Page 274 of 447

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way
to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long
as you can. Po help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or
so until
help comes.
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need
to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your
wheels
too fast. The method known as “rocking” can
help you get
out when you’re stuck, but you must
use caution.
you let yeerr tires spin at high speed, -..zy
can explode, and you or others could be
injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment fire or other damage.
When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above
35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Nofice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle
as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back
and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See
“Rocking Your Vehicle
To Get It Out.”
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see
Tire Chains on page 5-62.
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Page 277 of 447

Towing Loading Your Vehicle
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page
7-5.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle
- such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing your vehicle with two wheels
on the ground and
two wheels
up on a device known as a “dolly”).
Your vehicle was not designed
to be towed with any of
its wheels on the ground.
If your vehicle must be
towed, see Towing Your Vehicle on page
4-44.
Notices Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two
of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Don’t tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
if
any of its wheels will be on the ground.
II II
GAWR FRT GAWR RR
!E mNERS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION[-]
The Certificationmire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver’s door.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the
inflation pressures needed
to obtain the gross weight
capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the
weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
The Certificationmire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads
on your front and rear axles, you need to go
to a
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Page 281 of 447

To identify the trailering capacity for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has
to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers.
So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
0
0
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having
to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a
sway control
if your trailer will
weigh
5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg) or less. You should
always use a sway control
if your trailer will weigh
more than
5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg). You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first
500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first
500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over
50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a
lower gear selection
if the transmission shifts
too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” under Towing
a
Trailer on page 4-47.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
0 the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
0 and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
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Page 284 of 447

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross vehicie ‘Weight (GVLiij
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry
in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. See Loading
Your Vehicle
on page
4-44 for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.
A €3
If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be
10 percent
to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately,
to see if the weights
are proper.
If they aren’t, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the
trailer. for
your
vehicle.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door
or
see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-44. Then be
sure you don’t go over the GVW and rear axle limits for
your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure
you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distributing spring bars.
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Page 286 of 447

Driving with a Trailer
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can’t see or smell CO.
It can cause
unconsciousness or death. See “Engine
Exhaust” in the Index.
To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle.
Do not use
the comfort control setting for maximum
air because
it only recirculates the air
inside your vehicle. See “Comfort
1 Controls” in the Index. Towing a trailer requires a certain amount
of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead a5
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
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Page 291 of 447

Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.54
Tires .............................................................. 5.55
Inflation .. Tire Pressure ............................... 5-55
Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5.56
When It
Is Time for New Tires ....................... 5-58
Buying New Tires
......................................... 5.58
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
.......................... 5.59
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
.................. 5-61
Wheel Replacement
...................................... 5.61
Tire Chains
.................................................. 5-62
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5.63
Spare Tire
................................................... 5.77
Appearance Care ............................................ 5.78
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
................. 5-78
Care of Safety Belts
...................................... 5.80
Weatherstrips
............................................... 5.80
Changing a Flat Tire
..................................... 5-63 Cleaning the Outside
of Your Vehicle
.............. 5-81
Sheet Metal Damage
.................................... 25-83
Finish Damage
............................................ 5-83
Underbody Maintenance
............................... 5-84
Chemical Paint Spotting
................................ 5-84
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
........... 5-84
Vehicle Identification .................................... ,.5-86
Service Parts Identification Label
..................... 5-86
Electrical System ............................................ 5-87
Add-on Electrical Equipment .......................... 5-87
Windshield Wiper Fuses
............................... 25-87
Power Windows
and Other Power Options ....... 5-87
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
............................ 5-87
Capacities and Specifications .......................... 5-96
Capacities and Specifications ......................... 5-96
Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN)
................ 5-86
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ...... 5-98
5-2