steering HUMMER H3 2008 Owner's Manual

If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline,
be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the
uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open.
If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle
starts to roll over, you will be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will
need longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do
not get stuck. Be careful to keep mud from building
up and washing onto the engine cooling system.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such
as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend
to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed
and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
4-29

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing
water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and
other vehicle parts. Your vehicle is capable of depths up
to 20 inches (50 cm). Know how to judge whether the
water is deeper than this before proceeding into it.
4-30

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if
you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as
your tailpipe is under water, you will never be able
to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-33for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and
oil coolers and underbody skid shields for mud
accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully clean these
devices to allow proper cooling. Check the bodystructure, steering, suspension, underbody shields,
wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also,
check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due
to off-road use. See the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Assist Steps
If your vehicle has removable side steps, remove the
steps prior to off-roading to give your vehicle more ground
clearance and to prevent damage to the vehicle from the
side steps dragging and/or catching on obstacles.
Notice:Do not drive off-road with the side steps
attached to your vehicle. You can damage the
side steps and/or your vehicle’s frame if they get
caught or drag against an obstacle. This damage
would not be covered by your vehicle’s warranty.
Always remove the side steps prior to any off-road
driving.
4-31

The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
SeeAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an
overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you
are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things
to do to summon help and keep yourself and your
passengers safe:
Turn on the hazard warning ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you
have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
oor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself
or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
4-37

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. The traction control
system activates when the system senses that the
wheels are spinning. Turn off any traction or stability
system. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5
andStabiliTrak
®System on page 4-7. Then, with the
wheels straight ahead, shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual
transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2)
and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as
possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until
the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is
in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your
vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed
out. Or, you can use the recovery loops. If your
vehicle does need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-48.
Recovery Loops
{CAUTION:
These loops, when used, are under a lot of
force. Keep people away from the vicinity of
the loops and any chains or cables during use.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull
on the loops at a sideways angle. The loops
could break off and you or others could be
injured from the chain or cable snapping back.
Notice:Never use the recovery loops to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would
not be covered by warranty.
4-40

Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. Because you’re a good
deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
4-57

Trailer Brake Control Wiring Harness
The trailer brake control wiring harness is located
under the instrument panel to the right of the steering
column. The wires are taped to the harness that goes
to the courtesy light under the instrument panel.
The harness will contain the following wires:
Red Wire: AUX B+
Black Wire: Ground
Light Blue Wire: Brake Signal
Dark Blue Wire: Trailer Brakes
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight
of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the
weight of the people inside, but you can gure about
150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load
must not be more than your vehicles CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that
you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without
the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-50.
4-62

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements.....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-11
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-20
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-21
Manual Transmission Fluid.............................5-24
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-26Engine Coolant.............................................5-27
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-29
Engine Overheating.......................................5-29
Cooling System............................................5-31
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-36
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-37
Brakes........................................................5-38
Battery........................................................5-41
Jump Starting...............................................5-42
Rear Axle
.......................................................5-45
Four-Wheel Drive............................................5-46
Front Axle......................................................5-46
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-46
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-49
Headlamps..................................................5-49
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................5-50
License Plate Lamp......................................5-51
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-52
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-52
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-37.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant
on page 5-27.
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-31.H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-42.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
J. Positive (+) Battery Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-42.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-38.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-103.
M. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-41.
N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
SeeHydraulic Clutch on page 5-26.
5-13

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped).
SeeEngine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-37.
D. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant
on page 5-27.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
H. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-38.
I. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-41.
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
K. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-31.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-103.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15