UBS ISUZU TROOPER 1998 Service User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: ISUZU, Model Year: 1998, Model line: TROOPER, Model: ISUZU TROOPER 1998Pages: 3573, PDF Size: 60.36 MB
Page 361 of 3573

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN 2A Ð 59
INSTALLATION
4. Steering Wheel
Align the setting marks made when removing.
CAUTION:
Never apply force to the setting wheel in direction of the
shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an
attempt to install the steering wheel. The setting shaft is
designed as an energy absorbing unit.
3. Steering Wheel Fixing Nut
Steering Wheel Nut Torque Nám (kgám/lbáft)
34 (3.5 / 25)
2. Horn Lead
1. Inflator Module
1) Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
CAUTION:
·Never use the air bag assembly from another vehicle.
Use only the air bag assembly for "UBS".
·When replace the inflator module, use only same parts
number assembly. If different parts number assembly is
installed, the air bag system can not function correctly
because it has different characteristic.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead wire
from being pinches.
2) Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
3) Tighten bolts to specified sequence as figure.
Inflator module Bolt Torque Nám (kgám/lbáin)
8 (0.8 / 69)
4) Connect the yellow 2way SRS connector located
under the steering column.
5) Connect the battery ground cable.
6) Set ignition to "ON" while watching warning
light. Light should flash 7 times and then go off.
If lamp does not operate correctly, refer to
Section 9J.
3
41
2
827RS017
Page 365 of 3573

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN 2A Ð 63
5. Steering Wheel
Align the setting marks made when removing.
CAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in direction of the
shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an
attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft
is designed as an energy absorbing unit.
Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the specified
torque.
Steering Wheel Nut Torque Nám (kgám/lbáft)
34 (3.5 / 25)
4. Inflator Module
1) Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
CAUTION:
·Never use the air bag assembly from another vehicle.
Use only the air bag assembly for "UBS".
·When replace the inflator module, use only same parts
number assembly. If different parts number assembly is
installed, the air bag system can not function correctly
because it has different characteristic.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead wire
from being pinched.
2) Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
3) Tighten bolts to specified sequence as figure.
Inflator Module Bolt Torque Nám (kgám/lbáin)
8 (0.8 / 69)
3. Steering Lower Cover
Install the engine hood opening lever.
2. Lower Cluster Assembly
1. Front Console Assembly
1) Install the transmission (for M/T) and transfer
control lever knob.
2) Install the wiring harness connectors.
Connect the battery ground cable.
Turn the ignition to "ON" while watching warning light.
Light should flash 7 times and then go off. If lamp
does not operate correctly, refer to Section 9J.
3
41
2
827RS017
Page 370 of 3573

2A Ð 68 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
3
41
2
4. Inflator Module
1) Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
CAUTION:
·Never use the air bag assembly from another vehicle.
Use only the air bag assembly for "UBS".
·When replace the inflator module, use only same parts
number assembly. If different parts number assembly is
installed, the air bag system can not function correctly
because it has different characteristic.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead wire
from being pinched.
2) Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
3) Tighten bolts to specified sequence as figure.
Inflator Module Bolt Torque Nám (kgám/lbáin)
8 (0.8 / 69)
3. Steering Lower Cover
Install the engine hood opening lever.
2. Lower Cluster Assembly
1. Front Console Assembly
Connect the wiring harness connectors.
Install the transmission (for M/T) and transfer control
lever knob.
Connect the yellow 2way SRS connector located
under the steering column.
Connect the battery ground cable.
827RS017
SYSTEM INSPECTION
¥Turn the ignition to "ON" while watching
warning light.
¥Light should flash 7 times and then go off. If
lamp does not operate correctly, refer to Section
9J.
Page 375 of 3573

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN 2A Ð 73
Starter switch
harness
Combination
switch harness
Inflator module
harness
Setting cowl
(Lower)
7. Steering Column Cover
When installing the steering column cover, be sure to
route each wire harness as illustrated so that the
harnesses do not catch on any moving parts.
6. Steering Wheel
Align the setting marks made when removing.
CAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in direction of the
shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an
attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft
if designed as an energy absorbing unit.
Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the specified
torque.
Steering Wheel Nut Torque Nám (kgám/lbáft)
34 (3.5 / 25)
5. Inflator Module
1) Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
CAUTION:
·Never use the air bag assembly from another vehicle.
Use only the air bag assembly for "UBS".
·When replace the inflator module, use only same parts
number assembly. If different parts number assembly is
installed, the air bag system can not function correctly
because it has different characteristic.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead wire
from being pinched.
2) Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
3) Tighten bolts to specified sequence as figure.
Inflator Module Bolt Torque Nám (kgám/lbáin)
8 (0.8 / 69)
4 Driver Knee Bolster (Reinforcement)
3. Steering Lower Cover
Install the engine hood opening lever.
2. Lower Cluster Assembly
1. Front Console Assembly
Connect the wiring harness connectors.
Install the transmission (for M/T) and transfer control
lever knob.
Connect the yellow 2way SRS connector located
under the steering column.
Connect the battery ground cable.
825RS048
3
41
2
827RS017
Page 470 of 3573

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.
Page 506 of 3573

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.
Page 755 of 3573

4D1±34
TRANSFER CASE (STANDARD TYPE)
2. If the measured value exceeds the specified limit, the
gear must be replaced.
Gear inside diameter
Standard : 48.000±48.013 mm (1.8898±1.8903 in)
Limit : 48.10 mm (1.894 in)
226RS040
Clutch Hub Spline Play
1. Set a dial indicator to the clutch hub to measured.
2. Move the clutch hub as far as possible to both the right
and the left.
Note the dial indicator reading.
3. If the measured value exceeds the specified limit, the
clutch hub must be replaced.
Clutch hub spline play
Standard : 0±0.1 mm (0±0.004 in)
Limit : 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
226RS042
Bearings
1. Inspect the condition of all the needles and ball
bearings. Wash bearings thoroughly in a cleaning
solvent. Apply compressed air to the bearings.
NOTE: Do not allow the bearings to spin. Turn them
slowly by hand. Spinning bearings may damage the
rollers.
2. Lubricate the bearings with a light oil and check them
for roughness by slowly turning the race by hand.
Ball Bearing Play
1. Use a dial indicator to measure the ball bearing play.
2. If the measured value exceeds the specified limit, the
ball bearing must be replaced.
Limit : 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
226RS043
Synchronizers
The synchronizer hubs and sliding sleeves are a selected
assembly and should be kept together as originally
assembled.
Clean synchronizer components with clean solvent and
air dry.
Inspect the components for the following:
Teeth for wear, scuffs, nicks, burrs or breaks.
Keys and springs for wear, cracks or distortion,
replace if these conditions are present.
If scuffed, nicked or burred conditions cannot be
corrected with a soft stone or crocus cloth, replace the
component.
Block Ring and Insert Clearance
1. Use a vernier caliper to measure the clearance
between the block ring and the insert.
2. If the measured value exceeds the specified limit, the
block ring and the insert must be replaced.
Block ring and insert clearance
Standard : 2.46±2.74 mm (0.097±0.108 in)
Page 890 of 3573

5C – 12 POWER ASSISTED BRAKE SYSTEM
27. Depress the brake pedal to check if you feel
“sponginess” after the air has been removed from
all wheel cylinders and calipers. If the pedal feels
“spongy”, the entire bleeding procedure must be
repeated.
28. After the bleeding operation is completed on each
individual wheel, check the level of brake fluid in
the reservoir and replenish up to the “MAX” level if
necessary.
29. Attach the reservoir cap.
•If the diaphragm inside the cap is deformed,
reform it and install.
30. Stop the engine.
FLUSHING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
It is recommended that the entire hydraulic system be
thoroughly flushed with clean brake fluid whenever
new parts are installed in the hydraluic system.
Approximately one quart of fluid is required to flush
the hydraulic system.
The system must be flushed if there is any doubt as to
the grade of fluid in the system or if fluid has been
used which contains the slightest trace of mineral oil.
All rubber parts that have been subjected to a
contaminated fluid must be replaced.
BRAKE PIPES AND HOSES
The hydraulic brake system components are
interconnected by special steel piping and flexible
hoses. Flexible hoses are used between the frame and
the front calipers, the frame and rear axle case and the
rear axle and the rear calipers.
When the hydraulic pipes have been disconnected for
any reason, the brake system must be bled after
reconnecting the pipe; refer to “Bleeding Brake
Hydraulic System” in this section.
BRAKE HOSE INSPECTION
The brake hoses should be inspected at least twice a
year. The brake hose assembly should be checked for
road hazard, cracks and chafing of the outer cover,
and for leaks and blisters. Inspect for proper routing
and mounting of the hose. A brake hose that rubs on
suspension components will wear and eventually fail.
A light and mirror may be needed for an adequate
inspection. If any of the above conditions are
observed on the brake hose, adjust or replace the
hose as necessary.
CAUTION:
Never allow brake components such as calipers to
hang from the brake hoses, as damage to the hoses
may occur.
Page 985 of 3573

6A±29
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Timing Belt
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove radiator upper fan shroud from radiator.
4. Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench
then remove drive belt.
850RW001
Legend
(1) Crankshaft Pulley
(2) Cooling Fan Pulley
(3) Tensioner
(4) Generator
(5) Air Conditioner Compressor
(6) Power Steering Oil Pump
(7) Drive Belt
5. Remove cooling fan assembly four nuts, then the
cooling fan assembly.
6. Remove cooling fan drive pulley assembly.
7. Remove idle pulley assembly.
8. Remove serpentine belt tensioner assembly.
9. Remove power steering pump assembly.
10. Remove crankshaft pulley assembly using
5±8840±0133±0 crankshaft holder, hold crankshaft
pulley remove center bolt, then the pulley.
11. Remove right side timing belt cover then left side
timing belt cover.
12. Remove lower timing belt cover
13. Remove pusher.CAUTION: The pusher prevents air from entering
the oil chamber. Its rod must always be facing
upward.
014RW011
Legend
(1) Up Side
(2) Down Side
(3) Direction For Installation
(4) Locking Pin
14. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION:
1. Do not bend or twist the belt, otherwise its core
could be damaged. The belt should not be bent at
a radius less than 30 mm.
2. Do not allow oil or other chemical substances to
come in contact with the belt. They will shorten
the life.
3. Do not attempt to pry or stretch the belt with a
screw driver or any other tool during installation.
4. Store timing belt in a cool and dark place. Never
expose the belt direct sunlight or heat.
Page 1122 of 3573

6E±5 ENGINE DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
Specifications
Tightening Specifications
ApplicationN´mLb Ft.Lb In.
Camshaft Position Sensor Retaining Screw9Ð78
Crankshaft Position Sensor Mounting Bolt10Ð87
EGR Bolt2821Ð
EGR Nut2821Ð
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor207.7Ð
Fuel Drain Plug2922Ð
Fuel Pressure Regulator Attaching Screw6.5Ð60
Fuel Rail Bolts2518Ð
Fuel Tank Undercover Retaining Bolts3627Ð
Heated Oxygen Sensor4231Ð
Lower Intake Manifold to Engine Block Bolts2518Ð
Lower Intake Manifold to Engine Block Nuts2518Ð
Spark Plugs1813Ð
Throttle Body Mounting Bolts2518Ð
Upper Intake Manifold to Lower Intake Manifold Bolts2518Ð
VSS Retaining Bolt13Ð120
Vehicle Type Specifications
ECAUSTRALIA
THAILAND
SOUTH-EA
ST-ASIA
LATIN
AMERICAGULF
CONTRIES
SAUDI
CHINASOU
TH
AFRI
CA
EXPORTSpecifications
UBSUBSUBSUBSUBSUBS
OBD
O2
SENCATEGRMTATMTATMTATMTATMTMTATOBDSEN
SORAEGR
wI21
wI21
w11
w11
w11
w11
w1
w1
w
wI
w