tires ISUZU TROOPER 1998 Service Owner's Manual

REAR SUSPENSION; COIL SPRING 3D – 15
STABILIZER BAR
1
5
2
44
33
2
Removal Steps
1. Nut and washer
2. Link
3. Bracket
4. Rubber bushing
5. Stabilizer bar
Installation Steps
5. Stabilizer bar
4. Rubber bushing
3. Bracket
2. Link
1. Nut and washer
REMOVAL
Preparation:
1) Raise the vehicle and support the frame with suitable
safety stands.
2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
Refer to “Wheels and Tires” in section 3E.
1. Nut and Washer
CAUTION:
Be careful not to break the ball joint boot.
2. Link
3. Bracket
4. Rubber Bushing
5. Stabilizer Bar
460RW028

WHEELS AND TIRES 3E – 1
SECTION 3E
WHEELS AND TIRES
CONTENTS
PAGE
General Description ......................................................................................................... 3E – 2
On-Vehicle Service ........................................................................................................... 3E – 3
Wheels ........................................................................................................................... 3E – 3
Unit Repair ....................................................................................................................... 3E – 4
Tires ............................................................................................................................... 3E – 4
Wheels ........................................................................................................................... 3E – 5
General Balance Procedure ........................................................................................ 3E – 5
Balancing Wheel and Tire ........................................................................................... 3E – 6

3E – 2 WHEELS AND TIRES
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to
the originals in load capacity, specified dimension
and mounting configuration. Improper size or type
may affect bearing life, brake performance,
speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground
clearance and tire clearance to the body and
chassis.All models are equipped with metric sized steel
belted radial tires. Correct tire pressures and
driving habits have an important influence on tire
life. Heavy cornering, excessively rapid
acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking
increase premature and uneven wear.

WHEELS AND TIRES 3E – 3
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
WHEELS
2. Wheel and tire
1. Wheel lug nut
Removal Steps
1. Wheel lug nut
2. Wheel and tire
Installation Steps
2. Wheel and tire
1. Wheel lug nut
480RV004
REMOVAL
1. Wheel Lug Nut
Loosen wheel nut by approximately 180° (half a
rotation) and raise the vehicle. Then remove the nuts.
2. Wheel and Tire
NOTE:
Never use heat to loosen a tight wheel lug nut. The
application of heat to the hub can shorten the life of
the wheel and may cause damage to wheel bearings.
INSTALLATION
1. Wheel and Tire
2. Wheel Lug Nut
Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the specified torque in
numerical order.
Wheel Lug Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
118 (12.0 / 87)
CAUTION:
Before installing wheels, remove any build-up of
corrosion on the wheel mounting surface and brake
disc mounting surface by scraping and wire brushing.
Installing wheels without good metal-to-metal
contact at mounting surfaces can cause wheel nuts to
loosen, which can later allow a wheel to come off
while the vehicle is moving.
NOTE:
Valve caps should be on the valve stems to keep dust
and water out.

3E – 4 WHEELS AND TIRES
TIRES
REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric size
should be used. Most metric tire sizes do not have exact
corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended
that new tires be installed in pairs on the same axle. If
necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with
tire having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION:
Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and
bias-belted tires except in emergencies, because vehicle
handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss
of control.
TIRE MOUNTING
Remove valve cap on valve stem and deflate the tire.
Then use a tire changing machine to mount or dismount
tires.
Follow the equipment manufacturer’s instruction. Do not
use hand tools or tire lever alone to change tires as they
may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
TIRE DISMOUNTING
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or
coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and light rust.
Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well
lubricated with an approved tire lubricant.
After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that
beads are completely seated. Inflate the air to specified
pressure and install valve cap to the stem
WARNING:
NEVER STAND OVER TIRE WHEN INFLATING. BEAD MAY
BREAK WHEN BEAD SNAPS OVER RIM’S SAFETY HUMP
AND CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
NEVER EXCEED 240 kPa (35 psi) PRESSURE WHEN
INFLATING. IF 240 kPa (35 psi) PRESSURE WILL NOT
SEAT BEADS, DEFLATE, RE-LUBRICATE AND RE-INFLATE.
OVER INFLATION MAY CAUSE THE BEAD TO BREAK AND
CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
TIRE REPAIR
There are many different materials on the market used to
repair tires.
Manufacturers have published detailed instructions on
how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be
obtained from the tire manufacturer if they are not
included with the repair kit.
UNIT REPAIR

WHEELS AND TIRES 3E – 5
WHEELS
REPLACEMENT
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive runout must
be replaced.
Wheel Runout at Rim (Based on Hub bore.)
GENERAL BALANCE PROCEDURE
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of
the rim.
The tire should be inspected for the following: match
mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear,
proper wheel size and inflation pressure. Then balance
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance.
Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around
the wheel.
Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a
bouncing action called tramp. This condition will
eventually cause uneven tire wear.
Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on
each side of the wheel center-line so that when the tire
spins there is not tendency for the assembly to move from
side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced
may cause shimmy.
WARNING:
STONES SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THE TREAD TO
AVOID OPERATOR INJURY DURING SPIN BALANCING
AND TO OBTAIN A GOOD BALANCE.
Steel Aluminum
AVertical play:
Less than mm(in)1.5 (0.059) 0.7 (0.028)
BHorizontal play:
Less than mm(in)1.5 (0.059) 0.7 (0.028)

3E – 6 WHEELS AND TIRES
BALANCING WHEEL AND TIRE
ON-VEHICLE BALANCING
On-Vehicle balancing methods vary with equipment and
tool manufacturers. Be sure to follow each manufacturer’s
instructions during balancing operation.
OFF-VEHICLE BALANCING
Most electronic off-vehicle balancers are more accurate
than the on-vehicle spin balancers. They are easy to use
and give a dynamic balance. Although they do not correct
for drum or disc unbalance (as on-vehicle spin balancing
does), they are very accurate.

DIFFERENTIAL (FRONT) 4A1±2
Front Drive Axle
Diagnosis
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Oil Leak At Front AxleWorn or defective oil seal.Replace the oil seal.
Front axle housing cracked.Repair or replace.
Oil Leak At Pinion ShaftToo much gear oil.Correct the oil level.
Oil seal worn or defective.Replace the oil seal.
Pinion flange loose or damaged.Tighten or replace.
Noises In Front Axle Drive Shaft
JointBroken or worn drive shaft joints and
bellows (BJ and DOJ).Replace the drive shaft joints and
bellows.
ªClankº When Accelerating From
ªCoastºLoose drive shaft joint to output shaft
bolts.Tighten.
Damaged inner drive shaft joint.Replace.
Shudder or Vibration During
Acceleration
Excessive drive shaft joint angle.Repair.
AccelerationWorn or damaged drive shaft joints.Replace.
Sticking spider assembly (inner drive
shaft joint).Lubricate or replace.
Sticking joint assembly (outer drive
shaft joint).Lubricate or replace.
Vibration At Highway SpeedsOut of balance or out of round tires.Balance or replace.
Front end out of alignment.Align.
Noises in Front AxleInsufficient gear oil.Replenish the gear oil.
Wrong or poor grade gear oil.Replace the gear oil.
Drive pinion to ring gear backlash
incorrect.Adjust the backlash.
Worn or chipped ring gear, pinion
gear or side gear.Replace the ring gear, pinion gear or
side gear.
Pinion shaft bearing worn.Replace the pinion shaft bearing.
Wheel bearing worn.Replace the wheel bearing.
Differential bearing loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Wanders and PullsWheel bearing preload too tight.Adjust the wheel bearing preload.
Incorrect front alignment.Adjust the front alignment.
Steering linkage loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Steering gear out of adjustment.Adjust or replace the steering gear.
Tire worn or improperly inflated.Adjust the inflation or replace.
Front or rear suspension parts loose
or broken.Tighten or replace.
Front Wheel ShimmyWheel bearing worn or improperly
adjusted.Adjust or replace.
Incorrect front alignment.Adjust the front alignment.
Worn ball joint or bush.Replace the ball joint or bush.
Steering linkage loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Steering gear out of adjustment.Tighten or replace.
Tire worn or improperly inflated.Replace or adjust the inflation.
Shock absorber worn.Replace the shock absorber.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2A±4
DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
Axle Housing
Axle Housing and Associated Parts
420RW022
Legend
(1) Coil Spring and Insulator
(2) Axle Housing Assembly
(3) ABS Speed Sensor and Harness(if equipped)
(4) Nut
(5) Parking Brake Cable
(6) Bolt and Nut
(7) Antilock Brake System (ABS) Connector and
Bracket (if equipped)
(8) Bolt and Nut(9) Nut
(10) Differential Assembly
(11) Axle Shaft Assembly
(12) Brake Disc
(13) Brake Pipe
(14) Brake Caliper
(15) Nut
(16) Breather Hose
(17) Flare Nut
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle and support it with suitable safety
stands.
The hoist must remain under the rear axle housing.
2. Drain brake fluid. Refer to Hydraulic Brakes in Brake
section.
3. Remove rear wheels and tires. Refer to Wheel in
Suspension section.4. Remove propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller
Shaft in this section.
5. Drain the rear axle oil into a proper container.
6. Remove parking brake cable, release the connection
between the cable fixing clip equalizer. Refer to
Parking Brakes in Brake section.
7. Move the clip aside and pull out the breather hose.