oil level JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Owner's Manual

4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
5Run the engine and check for proper
functioning of the heater (and air conditioning,
if equipped).
Control checks
6The climate-control system uses an all-
electronic control panel that sends digital
information to the climate control computer.
There is little the home mechanic can do to
troubleshoot or test the system. The factory
recommends that diagnosis be performed at a
dealership.
7If there is a problem in just one area of
climate control, put the controls through their
entire range of operation and check the
system responses, i.e. set the controls to
COLD, the fan to low and the temperature to
65° F. In this mode the Manual LED should be
lit and the air conditioning compressor should
engage. Try all of the fan speeds and try the
temperature on HOT, then feel for warm air
coming from the ducts. Note:Between each
try of the different controls, wait 20 seconds or
so for the heater/air conditioning system to
adjust before checking for a response.
8When each control button is pushed two
times, its LED light should go on or off. Renew
the control assembly if any of the warning
lights don’t work.
9On 1988 and 1989 models, if the climate
controls do not respond to any driver input,
check with your Jaguar dealer before
renewing the ECU or control panel. A service
part is available (a resistor, #JLM 1901) that
can be installed at one of the control panel
terminals that may fix the problem without any
other parts being renewed. Instructions are
included with the part.
10Check the vacuum lines to the several
vacuum motors that operate the heater/air
conditioning functions. Look for pinched or
blocked hoses and leaks.11Each of the vacuum “servo motors” in the
system can be checked with a hand-held
vacuum pump (see illustration). Apply vacuum
and watch that the door or control it operates is
working.
12Further diagnosis of the controls or
climate control ECU are best left to a Jaguar
dealership or other qualified repair facility.
13 Air conditioning and heating
system- check and
maintenance
1
Air conditioning system
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved
recovery/recycling unit by a dealer service
department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility. Always wear
eye protection when working near air
conditioning system fittings.
1The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis to ensure that
the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
a) Inspect the condition of the compressor
drivebelt. If it is worn or deteriorated,
renew it (see Chapter 1).
b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if
necessary, adjust it (see Chapter 1).
c) Inspect the system hoses. Look for
cracks, bubbles, hardening and
deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all
fittings for oil bubbles or seepage. If there
is any evidence of wear, damage or
leakage, renew the hose(s).d) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
bugs and any other foreign material that
may have embedded itself in the fins. Use
a “fin comb” or compressed air to remove
debris from the condenser.
e) Make sure the system has the correct
refrigerant charge.
2It’s a good idea to operate the system for
about ten minutes at least once a month. This
is particularly important during the winter
months because long term non-use can
cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of
the seals.
3Leaks in the air conditioning system are
best spotted when the system is brought up
to operating temperature and pressure, by
running the engine with the air conditioning
ON for five minutes. Shut the engine off and
inspect the air conditioning hoses and
connections. Traces of oil usually indicate
refrigerant leaks.
4Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment required to effectively work on it,
accurate troubleshooting of the system
should be left to a professional technician.
5If the air conditioning system doesn’t
operate at all, check the fuse panel and the air
conditioning relay (refer to Chapter 12 for
relay locations and testing). See Sections 4, 9
and 12 for electrical checks of heating/air
conditioning system components.
6The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
Checking the refrigerant charge
7Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
8Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting and put the
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11
3
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.3b Remove the four screws (three are shown here) holding the
control assembly in the control/radio housing
12.11 Check the operation of the vacuum servo motors; in this
case, vacuum is applied to the servo on the right blower case -
the flapper door (arrowed) should operate

3261 Jaguar XJ6
10
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering systems
General
Power steering fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front suspension
Balljoints
Retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 62 41 to 45
Ball stud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 to 68 35 to 50
Lower control arm
Spring pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 34 19 to 25
Pivot nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 to 68 32 to 50
Shock absorber
Lower nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 68 45 to 50
Upper nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 43 26 to 31
Anti-roll bar
Bushing bracket bolts
Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 30 18 to 22
Link nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 60 41 to 44
Upper control arm pivot nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 75 45 to 55
Rear suspension
Carrier-to-control arm bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 80 51 to 59
Rear control arm-to-crossmember bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 105 62 to 77
Shock absorber/coil spring assembly
Lower shock-to-control arm bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 to 200 118 to 147
Upper shock-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Steering
Steering wheel-to-steering shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33
Steering shaft-to-steering gear pinion shaft U-joint pinch bolt . . . . . . . 19 to 24 14 to 17
Steering gear mounting bracket bolts/nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 29 19 to 21
Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 68 45 to 50 Anti-roll bar (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Balljoints - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Coil spring (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Control arm (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wheel bearing - check, repack and adjustment . . See Chapter 1
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hub and bearing (rear) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hub carrier (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Lower control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Self-levelling rear suspension system - general information . . . . . . . 2
Shock absorber (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Shock absorber/coil spring (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Steering gear boots - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering knuckle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Suspension and steering checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tie-rod ends - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Upper control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Wheel bearing lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Wheels and tyres - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, replaced with new ones of the
same part number or of original equipment
quality and design. Torque wrench settings
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Instead, renew any
bent or damaged part.
The front suspension (see illustrations)
consists of unequal-length upper and lower
control arms, shock absorbers and coil
springs. The upper ends of the shocks are
attached to the body; the lower ends
are attached to the lower control arms. The
upper ends of the coil springs are seated
against the suspension crossmember; the
lower ends are seated against removable
plates which are bolted to the lower control
arms. The steering knuckles are attached to
balljoints in the upper and lower control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the suspension
crossmember with a pair of bushing brackets
and to the lower control arms via a connecting
link at each end.The independent rear suspension (see
illustration)uses control arms and integral
shock absorber/coil spring units. The upper
ends of the shocks are attached to the body;
the lower ends are connected to the control
arms.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint on the lower end of the steering shaft, a
rack-and-pinion power steering gear, a power
steering pump and a pair of tie-rods which
connects the steering gear to the steering
knuckles (see illustration).
2 Self-levelling rear
suspension system
1988 to 1992 models were equipped with a
system that provided hydraulic power for the
rear suspension and for the power brakes. As
the vehicle is loaded or unloaded, the rear
suspension is automatically adjusted to
maintain a constant ride height.
The system was discontinued on 1993 and
later models, which are equipped with
conventional shock absorber/coil spring units.
A kit is available from your Jaguar dealer
should you decide to retrofit the later,
conventional shocks to a pre-1993 vehicle.
Complete instructions for refitting the kit are
included in Section 10.
3 Anti-roll bar (front)-
removal and refitting
2
1Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
2Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets that attach the anti-roll bar to the
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the nuts that attach the anti-roll
bar to the links (see illustration). If you’re
replacing the links themselves, or removing
the control arm, remove the nuts attaching the
links to the lower control arms.
Suspension and steering systems 10•3
10
1.3 Rear suspension
1 Hub carrier 2 Control arms 3 Crossmember mounting brackets 4 Crossmember
3.2 To detach the anti-roll bar from the
suspension crossmember, remove these
two bolts (arrowed) from each bushing
bracket
3261 Jaguar XJ6

and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Refit the special spring compressor tool
(JD115) as shown (see illustrations).
3Tighten the tool until the spacer is tight
against the spring pan, then remove the
spring pan bolts (see illustration).
4Slowly back off the wingnut on the special
tool until all tension is relieved from the spring.
Remove the tool, remove the pan, and remove
the coil spring.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Place the
coil spring in position with the spring pan
below it, refit the special tool and carefully
tighten the wingnut until the spring is
compressed enough to allow the pan to be
positioned and bolted to the lower control
arm. Be sure to tighten the pan bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9 Lower control arm-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The lower control arms
cannot be removed without a
special spring compressor tool
(Jaguar tool JD115). Do not try to
remove a lower control arm without this
tool, or you could be seriously injured.1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the spring pan and the coil spring
(see Section 8).
3Detach the steering gear (see Section 17)
and lower it far enough to provide clearance
for the lower control arm pivot bolt.
4Remove the pivot bolt and nut (see
illustration). Note any washers behind the nut
and store them in a plastic bag.
5Remove the lower control arm.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit any washers removed. Raise the
suspension with the trolley jack to simulate
normal ride height, then tighten the pivot bolt
and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Refer to Section 8 for coil
spring refitting.
10 Shock absorber/coil spring
(rear)- removal and refitting
3
Note 1: Always renew both left and right
shocks at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
Note 2:If you’re replacing the shock absorbers
on an earlier vehicle with the self-levelling
system, we strongly recommend (and so doesJaguar) that you renew the self-levelling units
with conventional units (available at the dealer
as a retrofit kit for older vehicles equipped with
the self-levelling system).
1Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Support the
control arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
2If you are removing/replacing the shocks on
a vehicle equipped with the self-levelling rear
suspension system, depressurise the system
by pumping the brake pedal until it feels hard
to push (this dissipates the pressure inside the
accumulator), then locate the hydraulic line
valve block just in front of the upper end of the
left rear shock (see illustration). Attach a
plastic hose to the bleeder screw (see
illustration), put the other end of the hose in a
catch bottle, crack the bleeder and drain off
as much fluid as possible. Disconnect the
hydraulic line that connects the left shock to
the valve block. Now locate the other valve
block just in front of the right rear shock;
disconnect the hydraulic line that connects
the right shock to this valve block too.
3Remove the lower shock absorber-to-
control arm nut and bolt (see illustration).
4Remove the upper mounting bolts (see
illustration)and remove the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
9.4 To detach the lower control arm from
the crossmember, remove this nut and bolt
(arrowed) (unbolt and lower the steering
gear before you can pull out the pivot bolt)10.2a On a vehicle equipped with self-
levelling rear suspension, the valve block
(arrowed) for the left rear shock is located
just in front of the shock absorber10.2b After depressurising the system,
attach a bleed hose to the bleed screw on
the left valve block, open the bleed and
drain any residual fluid into a catch bottle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.2a When refitting the spring compressor
tool (JD115), insert the upper end of the
rod into the cross-shaped slot in the
suspension crossmember, then rotate the
rod 90° so this pin on the upper end of the
tool locks into the crossmember
8.2b This is how the spring compressor
tool (JD115) looks when it’s installed; note
how the offset collet is oriented so that it’s
flush with the coil spring pan8.3 To detach the coil spring pan from the
lower control arm, compress the spring
and remove these six bolts (arrowed)

5The shock/coil spring assemblies must be
dismantled, and the coil springs installed on
the new shocks. Although the shock/coil
spring assembly is similar in appearance to
the a MacPherson strut/coil spring assembly,
the spring on this unit is much stiffer.
Therefore, DO NOT attempt to take apart this
unit yourself with a strut spring compressor
tool. Instead, take the unit to a Jaguar dealer
service department or to a Jaguar specialist
workshop and have the springs installed on
the new shocks by professionals.6If you are retrofitting conventional shocks -
rather than refitting the same or another pair
of self-levelling shocks - unplug the electrical
connector at the ride height sensor, and fill
the connector with silicone (see illustration)
to prevent it from shorting out and causing
electrical problems. Then disconnect and
remove all hydraulic lines (see illustrations).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8Remove the jack supporting the controlarm, refit the rear wheels and lower the
vehicle.
9Tighten the rear wheel nuts to the torque
listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
10If you retrofitted conventional shocks to a
vehicle formerly equipped with the self-
levelling rear suspension system, disconnect
the forward end of the hydraulic line from the
valve block and refit the plug included in the
kit (see illustrations). Then finish removing
the forward section of hydraulic line and the
brackets for the line (see illustration).
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
10.6a Where applicable, unplug the
connector to the ride height sensor and fill
the connector with silicone . . .10.6b . . . then disconnect and remove
both valve blocks . . .10.6c . . . and remove all associated
plumbing, including the metal line (arrow) to
the valve block in the engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.3 To detach the bottom of the shock absorber/coil spring from
the control arm, remove this nut and bolt, then pull out the bolt
10.4 To detach the top of the shock absorber/coil spring from the
body, remove these bolts (arrowed) - not all bolts are visible here
10.10a After the vehicle has been lowered,
disconnect the forward end of the
hydraulic line from the valve block . . .10.10b . . . refit the plug included in the
retrofit kit . . .10.10c . . . then remove these bracket
screws (arrowed), the brackets and the
forward section of hydraulic line

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt

8Adjustment should be made with the
vehicle parked 25 feet from the wall, sitting
level, the petrol tank half-full and no unusually
heavy load in the vehicle.
9Starting with the low beam adjustment,
position the high intensity zone so it is two
inches below the horizontal line and two
inches to the right of the headlight vertical
line. Adjustments are made by turning the
knobs located behind the headlight housings
(see illustration 18.2).
10With the high beams on, the high intensity
zone should be vertically centred with the
exact centre just below the horizontal line.
Note:It may not be possible to position the
headlight aim exactly for both high and low
beams. If a compromise must be made, keep
in mind that the low beams are the most used
and have the greatest effect on safety.
11Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer
service department or service station at the
earliest opportunity.
19 Headlight housing
(1992 to 1994 models)-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: These vehicles are
equipped with halogen gas-filled
headlight bulbs which are under
pressure and may shatter if the
surface is damaged or the bulb is dropped.
Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs
carefully, grasping only the base whenever
possible. Do not touch the surface of the
bulb with your fingers because the oil from
your skin could cause it to overheat and
fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb
surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.
1Remove the headlight bulb (Section 17).
2Remove the retaining nuts, detach the
housing and withdraw it from the vehicle (see
illustration).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
20 Horn- check and renewal
2
Check
Note:Check the fuses before beginning
electrical diagnosis.
1Disconnect the electrical connector from
the horn.
2To test the horn, connect battery voltage to
the two terminals with a pair of jumper wires.
If the horn doesn’t sound, renew it.
3If the horn does sound, check for voltage at
the terminal when the horn button is
depressed (see illustration). If there’s voltage
at the terminal, check for a bad earth at the
horn.
4If there’s no voltage at the horn, check the
relay (see Section 6). Note that most horn
relays are either the four-terminal or externally
earthed three-terminal type.
5If the relay is OK, check for voltage to the
relay power and control circuits. If either of the
circuits are not receiving voltage, inspect the
wiring between the relay and the fuse panel.
6If both relay circuits are receiving voltage,
depress the horn button and check the circuit
from the relay to the horn button for continuityto earth. If there’s no continuity, check the
circuit for an open. If the circuit is good, renew
the horn button.
7If there’s continuity to earth through the
horn button, check for an open or short in the
circuit from the relay to the horn.Renewal
8Remove the radiator grille inserts (see
Chapter 11).
9Disconnect the electrical connector and
remove the retaining nuts securing the horn
brackets (see illustration).
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.
21 Bulb renewal
1
Front direction indicator/rear
parking and side marker lights
1Remove the lens retaining screws and the
lens (see illustration).
2Push inward and rotate the bulb anti-
clockwise to remove it from the holder.
3Renew the bulb, refit the lamp lens and test
the bulb operation.
Body electrical system 12•11
12
20.9 Disconnect the electrical connector,
remove the retaining nuts (arrowed) - then
detach the horn(s)21.1 The front direction indicator/rear
parking and side marker light bulbs are
accessible after removing the lens screws
3261 Jaguar XJ6 19.2 Remove the headlight housing retaining nuts (arrowed) from
the backside of the radiator support
20.3 Check for power at the horn terminal with the horn button
depressed

3261 Jaguar XJ6
MOT test checksREF•11
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•14Fault finding
2 Fuel system
Engine surges while holding accelerator steady
m mIntake air leak (Chapter 4).
m mFuel pump faulty (Chapter 4).
m mLoose fuel injector harness connections (Chapters 4 and 6).
m mDefective ECU (Chapter 6).
Pinking or knocking engine sounds during
acceleration or uphill
m mIncorrect grade of fuel.
m mDistributor installed incorrectly (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injection system in need of adjustment (Chapter 4).
m mImproper or damaged spark plugs or wires (Chapter 1).
m mWorn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emission system (Chapter 6).
m mVacuum leak (Chapter 4).
m mFuel rail feed (inlet) hose has hardened, resulting in knocking noise
near dash (see Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mExcessive play in distributor shaft (Chapter 5).
m mWorn rotor, distributor cap or wires (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFaulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty coil (Chapter 5).
m mBrakes binding (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mEmission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
Engine rattles at start-up
m
mFailure of upper timing chain tensioner (Chapter 2).
Engine backfires
m
mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator,
faulty plug leads, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFuel injection system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake manifold or vacuum hoses
(Chapter 4).
Engine stalls
m mIdle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system
(Chapter 1).
m mDistributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emissions system components (Chapter 6).
m mFaulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or
vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine runs with oil pressure light on
m mLow oil level (Chapter 1).
m mIdle rpm too low (Chapter 1).
m mShort in wiring circuit (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty oil pressure sending unit (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
Engine diesels (continues to run)
after switching off
m mIdle speed too high (Chapter 4).
m mExcessive engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mIncorrect fuel octane grade.
Excessive fuel consumption
m
mDirty or clogged air filter element (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mFuel injection internal parts worn or damaged (Chapter 4).
m mLow tyre pressure or incorrect tyre size (Chapter 1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m
mLeak in a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4).
m mTank overfilled.
m mFuel injector internal parts excessively worn (Chapter 4).
3 Cooling system
Overheating
m
mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
Overcooling
m
mFaulty thermostat (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump seal defective (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mLeakage from radiator core or manifold tank (Chapter 3).
m mEngine drain or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2).
m mHoses behind water pump leaking (Chapter 3).
Internal coolant leakage
m
mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).
Coolant loss
m
mToo much coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mCoolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter 3).
m mInternal or external leakage (Chapter 3).
m mFaulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).
Poor coolant circulation
m
mInoperative water pump (Chapter 3).
m mRestriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective/out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat sticking (Chapter 3).
1 Engine (continued)

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Fault findingREF•15
4 Automatic transmission
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this
component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should
be taken to a dealer or transmission workshop.
Fluid leakage
m mAutomatic transmission fluid is a deep red colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
by air flow to the transmission.
m mTo pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the
transmission housing with degreasing agents and/or steam
cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not
blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine
where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are:
a) Sump pan (Chapters 1 and 7)
b) Dipstick/filler tube (see below)
c) Transmission fluid cooler lines (Chapter 7)
d) Speedometer sensor (Chapter 7)
m mMake sure the dipstick is a tight fit inside the filler tube. If the seal
at the top of the dipstick is worn or damaged, replace the seal or
the dipstick. If fluid continues to leak from the top of the dipstick
tube, inspect the breather, which is a plastic cap secured by a clip
to the top of the extension housing. This breather can be plugged
by the noise-deadening foam installed in the transmission tunnel,
causing transmission fluid to leak from the top of the dipstick
tube.
Transmission fluid brown or has a burned smell
m mTransmission fluid burned (Chapter 1).
Shift cable problems
m
mChapter 7 deals with adjusting the shift cable. Common problems
which may be attributed to a poorly adjusted shift cable are:
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on shift lever pointing to a gear other than the one
actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park.
m mRefer to Chapter 7 for the shift cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift
with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor
m mKickdown cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
Engine will start in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mNeutral start/reversing light switch malfunctioning (Chapter 7).
m mShift cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy,
or has no drive in forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer service department
or transmission repair workshop, check the level and condition of
the fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as
necessary or change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists,
have a professional diagnose the probable cause.
5 Brakes
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that:
a) The tyres are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter 1).
b) The front end alignment is correct (Chapter 10).
c) The vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
m mIncorrect tyre pressures (Chapter 1).
m mFront end out of line (have the front end aligned).
m mUnmatched tyres on same axle.
m mRestricted brake lines or hoses (Chapter 9).
m mMalfunctioning caliper assembly (Chapter 9).
m mLoose suspension parts (Chapter 10).
m mLoose calipers (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).
Noise (high-pitched squeal
when the brakes are applied)
m mFront and/or rear disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from
the wear sensor rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new
ones immediately (Chapter 9).
Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates)
m mExcessive lateral disc runout (Chapter 9).
m mParallelism not within specifications (Chapter 9).
m mUneven pad wear caused by caliper not sliding due to improper
clearance or dirt (Chapter 9).
m mDefective disc (Chapter 9).
Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
mMalfunctioning power brake servo (Chapter 9).
m mPartial system failure (Chapter 9).
m mExcessively worn pads (Chapter 9).
m mPiston in caliper stuck or sluggish (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).
m mNew pads installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the
new material to seat against the disc.
m mAccumulator in power hydraulic system defective (see a Jaguar
dealer).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m mPartial brake system failure (Chapter 9).
m mInsufficient fluid in master cylinder (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mAir trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9).
Dragging brakes
m
mMaster cylinder pistons not returning correctly (Chapter 9).
m mRestricted brakes lines or hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mIncorrect handbrake adjustment (Chapter 9).
Grabbing or uneven braking action
m
mMalfunction of power brake servo unit (Chapter 9).
m mBinding brake pedal mechanism (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).