Chapter 12 JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Manual PDF

water in the fuel filler cap recess could flow
into the boot, causing a dangerous condition
and/or an unpleasant mess. To correct this
condition, direct low-pressure compressed air
into the overflow hole (see illustration), which
should be enough to clear any obstruction in
the line.
8Remove the spare tyre and the spare tyre
bracket assembly (see illustration).
9Disconnect the fuel lines, the vapour return
line and the canister vent line (see
illustrations). Note:Be sure to plug the hoses
to prevent leakage and contamination of the
fuel system.Remove the driveline to gain
access to the fuel line connectors next to the
tank (see Chapter 8). Working under the
vehicle, remove the pins using a needle-nose
pliers, turn the connectors slightly to loosen
them from the grommets and pull the fuel lines
out of the tank.10Remove the retaining bolts from the
fuel tank retaining straps (see illustration).
11Pull the fuel tank out into the boot area.Be careful to angle the fuel filler neck away
from the body.
12Remove the tank from the vehicle.
13Refitting is the reverse of removal.
8 Fuel tank cleaning
and repair-
general information
5
1Any repairs to the fuel tank or filler neck
should be carried out by a professional who
has experience in this critical and potentially
dangerous work. Even after cleaning and
flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes
can remain and ignite during repair of the tank.
2If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle,
it should not be placed in an area where
sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes
coming out of the tank. Be especially careful
inside garages where a natural petrol-type
appliance is located, because the pilot light
could cause an explosion.
9 Air cleaner assembly-
removal and refitting
1
1Detach the clips and remove the air filter
cover and the filter element (see Chapter 1).
2Remove the bolts and remove the air cleaner
assembly from the engine compartment (see
illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7
4
7.7b Direct low pressure compressed air
into the hole for the overflow line if clogged7.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) from the
spare tyre bracket and lift out the assembly7.9a Disconnect the flexible fuel lines from
the metal fuel lines
7.9b Disconnect the vapour return line
from the fuel tank7.9c Disconnect the canister purge line
from the fuel tank
7.9d Remove the clips (arrowed) that
retain the fuel lines to the fuel tank using
needle-nose pliers
3261 Jaguar XJ6
7.10 Remove the tank strap bolts
(arrowed) from the body
9.2a Remove the bolts (arrowed) from the
air cleaner assembly9.2b Also, remove the bolt that retains the
air intake duct to the MAF sensor and lift
the assembly from the compartment

13Allow the bellcrank to return to the idle
position and test the adjustment once again
until the correct adjustment has been attained.
11 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system-
general information
1These models are equipped with an
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system. This fuel
injection system is designed by Bosch butlicensed by Lucas and is called the Lucas LH
Engine Management system. The EFI system
is composed of three basic sub systems: fuel
system, air induction system and electronic
control system (see illustration).
Fuel system
2An electric fuel pump is located on the
chassis of the rear suspension (external) (1988
to 1990) or inside the fuel tank (1991 to 1994)
The fuel pump supplies fuel under constant
pressure to the fuel rail, which distributes fuel
evenly to all injectors. From the fuel rail, fuel is
injected into the intake ports, just above the
intake valves, by fuel injectors. The amount of
fuel supplied by the injectors is precisely
controlled by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU).
A pressure regulator controls system pressure
in relation to intake manifold vacuum. A fuel
filter between the fuel pump and the fuel rail
filters fuel to protect the components of the
system.
Air induction system
3The air system consists of an air filter
housing, a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
(airflow meter), Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
sensor and a throttle body. The MAF sensor is
an information gathering device for the ECU.A heated element determines the temperature
differential by measuring the current changes
which in turn measures the mass (weight and
volume) of air entering the engine. This
information helps the ECU determine the
amount of fuel to be injected by the injectors.
The throttle plate inside the throttle body is
controlled by the driver. As the throttle plate
opens, the amount of air that can pass
through the system increases, so the
potentiometer opens further and the ECU
signals the injectors to increase the amount of
fuel delivered to the intake ports. Refer to
Chapter 6 for additional information on the
fuel injection system sensors, test procedures
and renewal procedures.
Electronic control system
4The Computer Control System controls the
EFI and other systems by means of an
Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which employs
a microcomputer. The ECU receives signals
from a number of information sensors which
monitor such variables as intake air volume,
intake air temperature, coolant temperature,
engine rpm, acceleration/deceleration and
exhaust oxygen content. These signals help
the ECU determine the injection duration
necessary for the optimum air/fuel ratio. Some
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
4
10.11 Rotate the bellcrank until it reaches
wide open throttle and make sure the
pointer aligns with the A on the bellcrank.
Adjust if necessary
11.1 Fuel injection and emission control component locations for the 3.6 litre 1989 XJ6
3261 Jaguar XJ6 1 Fuel pressure regulator (under
fuel rail)
2 Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor
3 Fuel pressure damper4 Bellcrank
5 Throttle body (below bellcrank)
6 Intake Air Temp. (IAT) sensor
7 Supplementary air valve8 Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor
9 Throttle potentiometer (under
throttle body)
10 Fuel rail11 Fuel injector
13 Ignition amplifier (below block
valve)
14 Distributor

of these sensors and their corresponding
ECU-controlled relays are not contained
within EFI components, but are located
throughout the engine compartment. For
further information regarding the ECU and its
relationship to the engine electrical and
ignition system, see Chapter 6.
12 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system- check
2
1Check the earth wire connections for
tightness. Check all wiring and electrical
connectors that are related to the system.
Loose electrical connectors and poor grounds
can cause many problems that resemble
more serious malfunctions.
2Check to see that the battery is fully
charged, as the control unit and sensors
depend on an accurate supply voltage in
order to properly meter the fuel.
3Check the air filter element - a dirty or
partially blocked filter will severely impede
performance and economy (see Chapter 1).
4If a blown fuse is found, renew it and see if
it blows again. If it does, search for a shorted
wire in the harness related to the system.
5Check the air intake duct from the MAF
sensor to the intake manifold for leaks, which
will result in an excessively lean mixture. Also
check the condition of the vacuum hoses
connected to the intake manifold.
6Remove the air intake duct from the throttle
body and check for carbon and residue build-
up. If it’s dirty, clean with aerosol carburettor
cleaner (make sure the can says it’s safe for
use with oxygen sensors and catalytic
converters) and a toothbrush.
7With the engine running, place a
stethoscope against each injector, one at a
time, and listen for a clicking sound, indicating
operation (see illustration).8If there is a problem with an injector,
purchase a special injector test light (noid
light) and refit it into the injector electrical
connector (see illustration). Start the engine
and make sure that each injector connector
flashes the noid light. This will test for the
proper voltage signal to the injector.Caution:
If the engine will not start and the noid
light indicates that each injector is
receiving the proper signal, there is a good
possibility that the injector(s) is stuck open
and allowing fuel into the combustion
chamber in excessive amounts. If the spark
plugs are fouled, detach the primary (low
voltage) wires from the ignition coil, disable
the fuel pump by removing the fuel pump
relay (see Section 2), remove the spark plugs
and crank the engine over. If fuel sprays from
the spark plug holes, the engine is flooded
and the fuel must be removed from the
combustion chambers.
9With the engine OFF and the fuel injector
electrical connectors disconnected, measure
the resistance of each injector (see
illustration). Each injector should measure
about 2.0 to 3.0 ohms. If not, the injector is
probably faulty.10The remainder of the system checks
should be left to a Jaguar service department
or other qualified repair workshop, as there is
a chance that the control unit may be
damaged if not performed properly.
13 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system- component
check and renewal
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. See
the Warning in Section 2.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Throttle body
Check
1Verify that the throttle linkage operates
smoothly.
2Start the engine, detach each vacuum hose
and, using your finger, check the vacuum at
each port on the throttle body with the engine
at idle and above idle. The vacuum available
from the throttle body is ported. Raise the
engine rpm and watch as vacuum increases.
It may be necessary to use a vacuum gauge.
Refer to Chapter 2B for additional information
concerning vacuum checks.
Renewal
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
3Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery (see the Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
4Drain the radiator (see Chapter 1).
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
12.9 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance across both terminals
of the injector
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.7 Use a stethoscope or a screwdriver to determine if the
injectors are working properly - they should make a steady
clicking sound that rises and falls with engine speed changes
12.8 Refit the “noid” light into the fuel injector electrical
connector and check to see that it blinks with the engine running

5Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 1) and
the air cleaner housing (see Section 9).
6Remove the air intake duct.
7Detach the electrical connector from the
MAF sensor (see illustration).
8Remove the clamp that retains the MAF
sensor to the air intake duct (see illustration)
and lift the MAF sensor assembly from the
engine compartment.
9Detach the throttle cable from the bellcrank
(see Section 10), then remove the bellcrank
assembly from the throttle body (see
illustration).
10Detach the kickdown cable from the
bellcrank and set the cable and brackets
aside (see Chapter 7).
11Clearly label, then detach, all vacuum and
coolant hoses from the throttle body.
12Disconnect the electrical connector from
the throttle potentiometer.
13Remove the four throttle body mounting
bolts and detach the throttle body from the
intake manifold.
14Using a soft brush and carburettor
cleaner, thoroughly clean the throttle body
casting, then blow out all passages with
compressed air.
Caution: Do not clean the throttle position
sensor with any solvents or sprays. Just
wipe it off with a clean, soft cloth.
15Refitting of the throttle body is the reverse
of removal.
16Be sure to tighten the throttle body
mounting bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
Adjustment
17Remove the air intake duct to expose the
throttle body and butterfly valve.
18Make sure the throttle body is clean and
free of burrs, nicks or carbon build-up (see
illustration).
19Measure the clearance between the
butterfly valve (throttle plate) and the wall of
the throttle body (see illustration). It should
be 0.05 mm (0.002 inch). 20If the gap is incorrect, loosen the throttle
stop locknut (see illustration)and turn the
throttle stop screw until the correct clearance
is attained.
21Refit the air intake duct and surrounding
components.
Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor
Note:The minimum idle speed is pre-set at
the factory and should not require adjustment
under normal operating conditions; however ifthe throttle body has been replaced or you
suspect the minimum idle speed has been
tampered with (for example, if the idle speed
screw was removed from the throttle body)
have the vehicle checked by a dealer service
department or a qualified automotive repair
workshop.Check
22Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature. Switch on the
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11
4
13.9 Remove the bellcrank assembly bolts
(arrowed) and separate it from the
throttle body13.18 The area inside the throttle body
near the throttle plate suffers from sludge
build-up because the PCV hose vents
crankcase vapour into the intake duct
13.19 Measure clearance between the
butterfly valve and the throttle body
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.7 Push up on the clip and remove the harness connector from
the MAF sensor
13.8 Remove the air intake duct clamp from the
MAF sensor housing
13.20 Adjust the butterfly angle by
loosening the locknut on the throttle stop
and turning the adjustment bolt

headlights or heated rear window and confirm
that the engine rpm decreases at first and
then increases. This check monitors the ISC
motor as it is signalled by the computer to
increase idle speed due to additional
amperage required from the charging system.
As the headlights draw current from the
charging system, the alternator will create
resistance on the belt as it works to produce
the additional energy. If the rpm does not
increase, check the ISC motor.
23Check for approximately 11.2 volts to the
ISC stepper motor (see illustrations).
Disconnect the ISC harness connector and
working on the harness side, check for
11.2 volts with the ignition key ON (engine not
running). Also, check the corresponding
terminals for the correct voltage amounts. If
the correct voltage does not exist, check the
wiring harness. Refer to the wiring diagrams
at the end of Chapter 12.24The ISC motor or stepper motor can be
checked for correct operation but a special tool
is required to activate the internal coils. Have
the stepper motor checked by a dealer service
department or other qualified repair workshop.
25Reconnect the ISC motor electrical
connector.
Renewal
26Detach the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery (see Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
27Use a large open-end spanner and
unscrew the ISC motor from the housing (see
illustration).
28Refitting is the reverse of removal, but be
sure to use a new gasket.
Fuel rail and fuel injectors
Note:If there is a distinct knocking noise
coming from the dash when the engine is
idling, the fuel feed hose may have hardenedrestricting fuel flow and causing abnormal
sounds. Replace the fuel inlet (feed) hose with
a new part from the dealer parts department.
Check
29Refer to the fuel injection system checking
procedure (see Section 12).
Renewal
30Relieve the fuel pressure (see Section 2).
31Detach the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery (see Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
32Disconnect the fuel injector wiring con-
nectors and set the injector wire harness aside.
33Detach the vacuum sensing hose from the
fuel pressure regulator.
34Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel
pressure regulator and the fuel rail (see
illustration 3.6a)
35Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (see
illustration).
4•12 Fuel and exhaust systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.23a To check the ISC motor, turn the ignition key ON
(engine not running) and check for the proper voltage amounts
at the harness connector (1989 model shown)
13.23b Later models are equipped with a different shape
ISC connector but the voltage values should be the same
as the early style
13.27 Use a large open end spanner to remove the ISC motor
from the intake manifold13.35 Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (arrowed) . . .

36Remove the fuel rail with the fuel injectors
attached (see illustration).
37Prise off the clips and remove the fuel
injector(s) from the fuel rail (see illustration).
38If you are replacing the injector(s), discard
the old injector. If you intend to re-use the
same injectors, renew the grommets and
O-rings (see illustrations).
39Refitting of the fuel injectors is the reverse
of removal. Apply a light film of clean engine
oil to the O-rings before refitting them.
40Tighten the fuel rail mounting bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Fuel pressure regulator
Check
41Refer to the fuel pump/fuel pressure
check procedure (see Section 3).
Renewal
42Relieve the fuel pressure (see Section 2)
and detach the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery (see the Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
43Detach the vacuum hose from the
regulator.
44Remove the fuel rail and the injectors as
an assembly (see Steps 30 to 39).
45Remove the fuel line from the fuel
pressure regulator (see illustration).
46Remove the fuel pressure regulator
mounting bolts and detach the pressure
regulator from the engine.
47The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Make sure the fuel lines are secure
and there are no leaks before using the car.
Supplementary air valve
Check
48The supplementary air valve provides
additional throttle valve bypass air during cold
starting and cold running conditions below
15° F. This output actuator is controlled by the
computer (ECU) in response to informationreceived from the coolant temperature sensor,
intake air temperature sensor and other
information sensors working with the fuel
injection system.
49Check for battery voltage to the
supplementary air valve. With the engine cold,
backprobe the electrical connector using a
long pin and check for battery voltage (see
illustration). Voltage should exist.
50Because of the special tools required to
test the supplementary air valve, have it
tested by a dealer service department or other
qualified repair facility.
Renewal
51Remove the intake hoses, the mounting
screws and detach the supplementary air
valve from the engine.
52Refitting is the reverse of removal.
53Be sure to use a new gasket when refitting
the idle-up valve.
Air intake plenum
Note:The air intake plenum is removed and
installed as a complete unit with the intake
manifold. In the event of damage or leaks,
remove the air intake plenum and intake
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•13
4
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.36 . . . and remove the fuel rail with the fuel injectors attached
13.37 Remove the fuel injector retaining clips from the fuel rail
using a small screwdriver
13.45 Disconnect the fuel pressure
regulator from the fuel return line
13.38b Pick out the old injector seal but
make sure the injector body is not
damaged in the process13.38a If you plan to refit the original
injectors, remove and discard the O-rings
and grommets and fit new ones
13.49 Check for battery voltage to the
supplementary air valve

manifold as a single unit and have it repaired
by a dealer service department. Refer to
Chapter 2 for removal and refitting procedures.
14 Exhaust system servicing-
general information
Warning: Inspection and repair
of exhaust system components
should be done only after the
components have cooled.
1The exhaust system consists of the exhaust
manifold, catalytic converter, the silencer, the
tailpipe and all connecting pipes, brackets,
hangers and clamps. The exhaust system is
attached to the body with mounting brackets
and rubber hangers (see illustrations). If any
of these parts are damaged or deteriorated,
excessive noise and vibration will be
transmitted to the body. Note:The exhaust
system configuration changes with later model
updates. Earlier models (1988 and 1989) are
equipped with a pre-catalytic converter near
the exhaust manifold incorporating a single
exhaust pipe to the silencer. Later models are
equipped with dual exhaust pipes, dual
catalytic converters and silencers.
2Conducting regular inspections of the
exhaust system will keep it safe and quiet.
Look for any damaged or bent parts, open
seams, holes, loose connections, excessive
corrosion or other defects which could allow
exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle.
Deteriorated exhaust system components
should not be repaired - they should be
replaced with new parts.
3If the exhaust system components are
extremely corroded or rusted together, they
will probably have to be cut from the exhaust
system. The convenient way to accomplish
this is to have a silencer repair workshop
remove the corroded sections with a cutting
torch. If, however, you want to save money by
doing it yourself and you don’t have an
oxy/acetylene welding outfit with a cutting
torch, simply cut off the old components with
a hacksaw. If you have compressed air,
special pneumatic cutting chisels can also beused. If you do decide to tackle the job at
home, be sure to wear eye protection to
protect your eyes from metal chips and work
gloves to protect your hands.
4Here are some simple guidelines to apply
when repairing the exhaust system:
a) Work from the back to the front when
removing exhaust system components.
b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust
system component fasteners to make
them easier to remove(see illustration).
c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps
when refitting exhaust system components.
d) Apply anti-seize compound to the threads
of all exhaust system fasteners during
reassembly.e) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance
between newly installed parts and all
points on the underbody to avoid
overheating the floor pan and possibly
damaging the interior carpet and
insulation. Pay particularly close attention
to the catalytic converter and its heat
shield.
Warning: The catalytic converter
operates at very high tem-
peratures and takes a long time
to cool. Wait until it’s completely
cool before attempting to remove the
converter. It’s a good idea to wear suitable
gloves. Failure to observe these points
could result in serious burns.
4•14 Fuel and exhaust systems
14.1c On dual silencer models, check the
condition of the mount (arrowed)
and the clamps
14.1a The rear tailpipe section is fastened
to the chassis with a special rubber mount
(arrowed) that pivots with road movement.
Check for deterioration and alignment14.1b Check the condition of the flexible
rubber mounts that hang the silencer to
the chassis
14.4 Use penetrating spray on the exhaust
flange nuts before attempting to
remove them
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
5
Chapter 5
Engine electrical systems
Ignition system
Ignition timing (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not adjustable
Ignition coil resistance (at 68°F):
Primary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 0.5 ohms
Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 to 6.5 k-ohms
Charging system
Charging voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.9 to 15.1 volts
Standard amperage:
No load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Less than 10 amps
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 amps or more Amplifier - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Battery cables - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - emergency jump starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Charging system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Charging system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition coil - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Ignition system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ignition system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Spark plug lead, distributor cap and rotor check
and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Starter motor - testing in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Starter solenoid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Starting system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . 13
5•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
The engine electrical systems include all
ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine related functions,
these components are discussed separately
from chassis electrical devices such as the
fuses, relays, lights, etc. (which are included in
Chapter 12).
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the electrical systems:
a) Be extremely careful when servicing
engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected or
handled improperly.
b) Never leave the ignition switch on for long
periods of time (10 minutes maximum)
with the engine off.c) Don’t disconnect the battery cables while
the engine is running.
d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting
a battery cable from another vehicle
during jump starting.
e) Always disconnect the negative cable first
and hook it up last or the battery may be
shorted by the tool being used to loosen
the cable clamps.
It’s also a good idea to review the safety-
related information regarding the engine
electrical systems in the Safety first section
near the front of this manual before beginning
any operation included in this Chapter.
2 Battery-
emergency jump starting
1
See “Jump starting”in “Roadside repairs”
at the front of this Manual.
3 Battery- removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the negative terminal, then the
positive terminal from the battery. On 1989 to
1992 models, the battery is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger side
bulkhead and on 1993 and 1994 models, it is
located in the boot.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Remove the battery hold-down clamp.
3Lift out the battery. Be careful, it’s heavy.
4While the battery is out, inspect the carrier
(tray) for corrosion.
5If you are replacing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the

same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. as the original.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
4 Battery cables-
check and renewal
1
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
1Periodically inspect the entire length of
each battery cable for damage, cracked or
burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery
cable connections can cause starting
problems and decreased engine performance.
2Check the cable-to-terminal connections at
the ends of the cables for cracks, loose wire
strands and corrosion. The presence of white,
fluffy deposits under the insulation at the
cable terminal connection is a sign that the
cable is corroded and should be renewed.
Check the terminals for distortion, missing
mounting bolts and corrosion.
3When removing the cables, always
disconnect the negative cable first and hook it
up last or the battery may be shorted by the
tool used to loosen the cable clamps. Even if
only the positive cable is being renewed, be
sure to disconnect the negative cable from
the battery first (see Chapter 1 for further
information regarding battery cable removal).
4Disconnect the cables from the battery,
then trace each of them to their opposite ends
and detach them from the starter solenoid
and earth terminals. Note the routing of each
cable to ensure correct refitting.
5If you are replacing either or both of the old
cables, take them with you when buying new
items. It is vitally important that you replace
the cables with identical parts. Cables have
characteristics that make them easy to
identify: positive cables are usually red, larger
in cross-section and have a larger diameter
battery post clamp; earth cables are usually
black, smaller in cross-section and have a
slightly smaller diameter clamp for the
negative post.
6Clean the threads of the solenoid or earth
connection with a wire brush to remove rust
and corrosion. Apply a light coat of battery
terminal corrosion inhibitor, or petroleum jelly,
to the threads to prevent future corrosion.
7Attach the cable to the solenoid or earth
connection and tighten the mounting nut/bolt
securely.
8Before connecting a new cable to the
battery, make sure that it reaches the battery
post without having to be stretched.
9Connect the positive cable first, followed by
the negative cable.
5 Ignition system- general
information and precautions
1All models are equipped with a computerised
ignition system. The ignition system consists of
the ignition coil, the crankshaft position sensor,
the amplifier and the electronic control unit
(ECU). The ignition ECU controls the ignition
timing and advance characteristics for the
engine. The ignition timing is not adjustable,
therefore, changing the position of the distributor
will not change the timing in any way. Note:In
the event the distributor must be removed from
the engine, be sure to follow the precautions
described in Section 9 and mark the engine and
distributor with paint to ensure correct refitting. If
the distributor is not marked and Ihe crankshaft is
turned while the distributor is out of the engine,
have the distributor installed by a dealer service
department. The distributor must be installed
using a special alignment tool.
2The distributor is driven by the intermediate
shaft which also drives the power steering pump.
The crankshaft position sensor is located on the
front timing cover. It detects crank position by
pulsing an electronic signal to the ECU. This
signal is sent to the ECU to provide ignition
timing specifications.
3The computerised ignition system provides
complete control of the ignition timing by
determining the optimum timing in response to
engine speed, coolant temperature, throttle
position and vacuum pressure in the intake
manifold. These parameters are relayed to the
ECU by the crankshaft position sensor, throttle
potentiometer, coolant temperature sensor and
MAF sensor. Ignition timing is altered during
warm-up, idling and warm running conditions by
the ECU. This electronic ignition system also
consists of the ignition switch, battery, coil,
distributor, spark plug leads and spark plugs.
4Refer to a dealer parts department or car
accessory outlet for any questions concerning
the availability of the distributor parts and
assemblies. Testing the crankshaft position
sensor is covered in Chapter 6.
5When working on the ignition system, take
the following precautions:
a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for
more than 10 seconds if the engine will
not start.
b) Always connect a tachometer in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions. Some tachometers may be
incompatible with this ignition system.
Consult a dealer service department
before buying a tachometer for use with
this vehicle.
c) Never allow the ignition coil terminals to
touch earth. Earthing the coil could result
in damage to the igniter and/or the
ignition coil.
d) Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running.
6 Ignition system- check
2
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the
ignition system, extreme care
should be taken when working
on the ignition components. This not only
includes the amplifier, coil, distributor and
spark plug leads, but related components
such as connectors, tachometer and other
test equipment also.
1With the ignition switch turned to the “ON”
position, a “Battery” light or an “Oil Pressure”
light is a basic check for ignition and battery
supply to the ECU.
2Check all ignition wiring connections for
tightness, cuts, corrosion or any other signs of a
bad connection.
3Use a calibrated ignition tester to verify
adequate secondary voltage (25,000 volts) at
each spark plug (see illustration). A faulty or
poor connection at that plug could also result in a
misfire. Also, check for carbon deposits inside
the spark plug boot.
4Check for carbon tracking on the coil. If
carbon tracking is evident, renew the coil and be
sure the secondary wires related to that coil are
clean and tight. Excessive wire resistance or
faulty connections could damage the coil.
5Check for battery voltage to the ignition coil
(see illustration). If battery voltage is available,
check the ignition coil primary and secondary
resistance (see Section 8).
6Check the distributor cap for any obvious
signs of carbon tracking, corroded terminals or
cracks (see Chapter 1).
7Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of
the spark plug leads. Each wire should measure
less than 25,000 ohms.
8Check for battery voltage to the ignition
amplifier (see Section 7). If battery voltage does
not exist, check the circuit from the ignition
switch (refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of
Chapter 12).
5•2 Engine electrical systems
6.3 To use a calibrated ignition tester
(available at most car accessory outlets),
remove a plug lead from a cylinder,
connect the spark plug boot to the tester
and clip the tester to a good earth - if there
is enough voltage to fire the plug, sparks
will be clearly visible between the
electrode tip and the tester body
3261 Jaguar XJ6

9Check for battery voltage to the Ignition ON
relay (see illustration). If battery voltage does
not exist, check the circuit from the ignition ON
relay to the battery (refer to the wiring diagrams
at the end of Chapter 12). Note:See Chapter 12
for the location of the Ignition ON relay.
10Check the operation of the crankshaft
position sensor (see Chapter 6).
11If all the checks are correct, check the
voltage signal from the computer. Using an LED
type test light, backprobe the coil power lead
(negative terminal) on the ignition coil (see
illustration). Remove the coil secondary wire
and earth the terminal to the engine. Now have
an assistant crank the engine over and observe
that the test light pulses on and off. If there is no
flashing from the test light, most likely the
computer is damaged. Have the ECU diagnosed
by a dealer service department.
12Additional checks should be performed by a
dealer service department or an automotive
repair workshop.
7 Amplifier- check and renewal
2
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the
ignition system, extreme care
should be taken whenever an
operation is performed involving ignitioncomponents. This not only includes the
amplifier, coil, distributor and spark plug
leads, but related components such as
connectors, tachometer and other test
equipment also.
Note:Because of the complexity and the
special tools required to test the amplifier, the
following procedure only describes a test to
verify battery voltage is reaching the amplifier.
If the wiring harness and the relays are
working properly and battery voltage is
available to the amplifier, have the ignition
system and the ECU diagnosed by a dealer
service department.
Check
1Disconnect the amplifier electrical connector
(see illustration).
2Turn the ignition key ON (engine not
running), check for battery voltage (see
illustration) to the amplifier.
3If no battery voltage is present, check the
harness from the ignition switch to the
amplifier. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the
end of Chapter 12.
Renewal
4Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.5Remove the amplifier mounting bolts (see
illustration).
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
8 Ignition coil-
check and renewal
2
Check
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5
6.5 Check for battery voltage to the
coil (+) terminal6.9 Check for battery voltage
to the IGN ON relay6.11 Refit the LED test light to the coil
negative (-) terminal, crank the engine over
and observe the light flash in response to
the trigger signal from the computer
7.1 Remove the clip that retains the
harness connector to the amplifier7.2 Check for battery voltage to the
ignition amplifier
7.5 Remove the amplifier mountings
screws (arrowed) and lift the unit from the
engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6