water pump JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Workshop Manual

20 Crankcase ventilation
system check
1
Refer to Chapter 6.
21 Drivebelt check and renewal
2
Check
1The drivebelts, or V-belts as they are
sometimes called, are located at the front of
the engine and play an important role in the
overall operation of the vehicle and its
components. Due to their function and
material make-up, the belts are prone to
failure after a period of time and should be
inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent
major engine damage.
2The number of belts used on a particular
vehicle depends on the accessories installed.
The main belt transmits power from the
crankshaft to the water pump, alternator and
the power steering pump. The second belt
transmits power from the crankshaft to the air
conditioning compressor.
3With the engine off, open the bonnet and
locate the drivebelts. With a flashlight, check
each belt for separation of the adhesive
rubber on both sides of the core, core
separation from the belt side, a severed core,
separation of the ribs from the adhesive
rubber, cracking or separation of the ribs, and
torn or worn ribs or cracks in the inner ridges
of the ribs (see illustrations). Also check for
fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a
shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt
should be inspected, which means you will
have to twist the belt to check the underside.
Use your fingers to feel the belt where you
can’t see it. If any of the above conditions are
evident, replace the belt (go to paragraph 7).
4Check the belt tension by pushing firmly on
the belt with your thumb at a distance halfway
between the pulleys and note how far the beltcan be pushed (deflected). Measure this
deflection with a ruler (see illustration). As a
rule of thumb, if the distance from pulley
centre-to- pulley centre is between 7 and
11 inches, the belt should deflect 1/4-inch. If
the belt travels between pulleys spaced 12 to
16 inches apart, the belt should deflect
1/2-inch for a V-belt or 1/4-inch for a
serpentine belt.
Adjustment
5There are two belt tensioning mechanisms.
The first one adjusts the air conditioning
compressor belt, which is accessible from
underneath the car. The second tensioning
mechanism is above the alternator - it adjusts
the tension on the main belt (the water pump,
alternator and power steering pump belt).
6The air conditioning compressor and the
alternator each have a belt tensioning
mechanism and pivot bolt(s) which must be
loosened slightly to enable you to move the
component (see illustrations).
7After the bolts have been loosened, belt
tension can be adjusted by either loosening or
tightening the locknuts on the belt tensioning
adjustment rod (see illustration 21.6a and b).
Move the component away from the engine totighten the belt or toward the engine to loosen
the belt.
8Measure the belt tension using the method
described in paragraph 4. Repeat this
procedure until the drivebelt is adjusted
properly.
Renewal
9To replace a belt, loosen the drivebelt
adjustment rod and pivot bolt as described
above, slip the belt off the crankshaft pulley
and remove it. If you are replacing the
alternator/power steering pump belt, you’ll
have to remove the air conditioning
1•16Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
21.3a Small cracks in the underside of a
serpentine belt are acceptable -
lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces, are
cause for replacement
21.3b Here are some of the more common
problems associated with V-belts (check
the belts very carefully to prevent an
untimely breakdown)
21.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a
straightedge and ruler
21.6a To adjust the alternator/power
steering drivebelt, loosen the outer locknut
(arrowed) and the alternator pivot bolt -
turn the inner locknut anti-clockwise to
loosen or clockwise to tighten the belt21.6b To adjust the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, loosen the outer
locknut (arrowed) and the compressor
pivot bolts - turn the inner locknut anti-
clockwise to loosen or clockwise to
tighten the belt
3261 Jaguar XJ6

30 Coolant renewal
2
Warning: Do not allow engine
coolant (antifreeze) to come in
contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze laying around in an open
container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by it’s
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze. Your local authority may have
collection centres which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the
antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of
rust and corrosion, which can impair the
performance of the cooling system and
cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and renewed if
necessary.
Draining
2Apply the handbrake and block the wheels.
If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several
hours to allow the engine to cool down before
beginning this procedure.
3Remove the expansion tank pressure cap
(see illustration).
4Move a large container under the radiator
drain to catch the coolant. Then using a largescrewdriver, open the radiator drain plug and
direct the coolant into the container (see
illustration).
27 Differential oil renewal
2
1Drive the car for several miles to warm up
the differential lubricant, then raise the car
and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and
the required tools under the car.
3Remove the check/fill plug from the
differential. If necessary refer to Section 9 for
the check/fill plug location.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
use a ratchet and socket to loosen the drain
plug (see illustration). Note:A special pipe
plug socket may be required to complete this
procedure.
5Once loosened, carefully unscrew it with
your fingers until you can remove it from the
case. Since the lubricant will be hot, wear a
rubber glove to prevent burns.
6Allow all of the oil to drain into the pan, then
replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 9 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the fill plug and tighten it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
28 Brake fluid renewal
2
Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling or
pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has
been standing open or is more than oneyear old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from
the air. Excess moisture can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
1At the specified time intervals, the brake
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the brake fluid may drip or splash when
pouring it, place plenty of rags around the
master cylinder to protect any surrounding
painted surfaces.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified type of brake fluid.
3Remove the cap from the master cylinder
reservoir.
4Using a hand suction pump or similar
device, withdraw the fluid from the master
cylinder reservoir.
5Add new fluid to the master cylinder until it
rises to the base of the filler neck.
6Bleed the brake system as described in
Chapter 9 at all four brakes until new and
uncontaminated fluid flows from the bleed
screw.
7Refill the master cylinder with fluid and
check the operation of the brakes. The pedal
should feel solid when depressed, with no
sponginess.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
you are in any doubt about the
braking system.
1•20Every 30 000 miles or 2 years
27.4 The differential drain plug (arrowed)
is accessible through a hole located in the
middle of the differential support brace
30.3 Push the expansion tank pressure
cap downward and rotate anti-clockwise -
never remove it when the engine is hot!
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
29 Handbrake shoes check
2
1Remove the rear discs and inspect the
handbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9. If
the shoes are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

3261 Jaguar XJ6
2A
Chapter 2 Part A
Engine in-car repair procedures
General
Cylinder numbers (front to rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-3-4-5-6
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Displacement:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3239 cc
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3590 cc
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3980 cc
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.0 mm (3.583 inches)
Stroke:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.0 mm (3.268 inches)
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.0 mm (3.622 inches)
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102.0 mm (4.016 inches)
Camshafts and lifters
Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.9370 to 26.9494 mm (1.0605 to 1.0610 inches)
Bearing oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.037 to 0.063 mm (0.0014 to 0.0024 inch)
Runout limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0406 mm (0.0016 inch)
Lobe lift (maximum variation between lobes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0127 mm (0.005 inch)
Valve lifter
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.34 to 33.35 mm (1.3126 to 1.3130 inches)
Oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.050 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 inch)
Valve clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.36 mm (0.012 to 0.014 inch)
Oil pump
Outer rotor to body clearance, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch)
Outer rotor OD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.774 to 69.825 mm (2.7470 to 2.7490 inches)
Rotor thickness, inner and outer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.962 to 27.975 mm (1.1008 to 1.1013 inches)
Clearance over rotors, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch) Auxiliary shaft - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cylinder compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Driveplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Engine mounts - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2BExhaust manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intake manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Timing chains and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 8
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Torque wrench settings*Nm lbf ft
Camshaft bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt
3.2 and 3.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 151
4.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 220 133 to 162
Crankshaft pulley to damper bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft sensor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Cylinder head bolts
Step 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Step 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten an additional 90° (1/4 turn)
Driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 to 149 91 to 110
Engine mounts
To engine block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 to 66 36 to 39
To chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24 16 to 18
Exhaust manifold heat shield fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Intake manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Sump bolts, adapter to pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 to 54 36 to 40
Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Valve cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 12 7 to 9
*Note:Refer to Part B for additional specifications
2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-car
repair procedures for the in-line six-cylinder
engines. All information concerning engine
removal and refitting and engine block and
cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part B
of this Chapter.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is installed
in the car. If the engine has been removed
from the car and mounted on a stand, many of
the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will
not apply. We have photographed some in-
car engine procedures with the engine on a
stand for photographic purposes.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Part B of Chapter 2
includes the Specifications necessary for
cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the car
Many repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the car.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, itmay be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the car. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place (although rear oil seal
renewal involves removal of the transmission).
The sump is difficult for a home mechanic to
replace without a hoist and other specialised
equipment, since the front suspension,
steering and crossmember must be lowered
to allow enough clearance for sump removal.
If such equipment is not available, the
alternative would be to remove the engine for
renewal of the sump or oil pump. Note:We
assume that the home mechanic does not
have access to the specialised equipment,
and have photographed our subject engine
out of the car for some procedures.
Exterior engine components, such as the
intake and exhaust manifolds, the water
pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the
distributor and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.
Since the cylinder head can be removed
with the engine in-car, camshaft and valve
component servicing can also be
accomplished. Renewal of the timing chains
and sprockets is also possible with the engine
in-car.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
number one piston- locating
1
Note:The following procedure is based on the
assumption that the distributor is correctly
installed. If you are trying to locate TDC to refit
the distributor correctly, piston position must
be determined by feeling for compression at
the number one spark plug hole, then aligning
the ignition timing marks (see paragraph 8).
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up the cylinder bore. Each piston
reaches TDC on the compression stroke and
again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC
generally refers to piston position on the
compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an
essential part of many procedures such as
camshaft and timing chain/sprocket removal
and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral and apply
the handbrake or block the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap and grounding it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
timing chain end of the engine, normal
crankshaft rotation is clockwise.
a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet

10Remove the front cover-to-engine block
bolts (see illustration). Note:Two of the front
cover bolts are water pump assembly bolts.
Refer to Chapter 3 for water pump removal,
although only the two bolts that attach to the
engine block need be removed.
11Release the rubber band from the upper
tensioners and remove the upper timing chain
(see illustration).
12Remove the upper chain guides (see
illustration).
13Unbolt and remove the lower timing chain
tensioner (see illustration).
14Refer to Section 13 for removal of the oil
pump sprocket and drive chain.
15Remove the lower timing chain from theintermediate sprocket, auxiliary shaft sprocket
and the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).
16Before proceeding any further, apply
timing marks on the crankshaft and the engine
block, allowing you to locate TDC position
without the crankshaft pulley in place (see
illustration).
Inspection
17Examine the sprockets for signs of wear
or damage. Renew the timing chain if obvious
wear or damage is noted or if it is the least bit
questionable. Note:If there is wear or damage
noticed in any of the sprockets or chains, the
entire set must be renewed, i.e. new chains
and new sprockets.18Correct any problems which contributed
to chain failure prior to refitting of a new chain.
19Check the chain guides for grooves, chips
or wear in the contact surface. Clean and
inspect the upper and lower tensioners.
Refitting
20Remove all dirt, oil and grease from the
timing chain area at the front of the engine.
21Recheck the crankshaft timing marks to
be sure they are properly aligned (see
illustration 8.16).
22Refit the lower timing chain on the
crankshaft, intermediate-shaft and auxiliary-
shaft sprockets. The chain should be
lubricated with engine oil.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7
2A
8.9a Pull the hydraulic pump coupling disc
(arrowed) off the drive coupling . . .8.9b . . . and unbolt the drive coupling
(arrowed) from the intermediate shaft
8.10 Remove the front cover-to-engine
block and the sump-to-cover bolts
(arrowed)
8.11 Remove the upper timing chain from
the intermediate sprocket (arrowed)8.12 Unbolt and remove the upper chain
guide (right arrow) and the upper chain
tensioner guide (left arrow)
8.13 Remove the two bolts and remove
the lower timing chain tensioner (arrowed)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.15 Remove the lower timing chain from
the intermediate sprocket (A), the auxiliary
shaft sprocket (B) and the crankshaft
sprocket (C)
8.16 Apply paint marks on the crankshaft,
crankshaft sprocket and the engine block
(arrowed) to indicate TDC position

Engine block
Deck warpage limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.076 mm (0.003 inch)
Cylinder bore diameter
Standard
Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.990 to 91.003 mm (3.5823 to 3.5828 inches)
Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.005 to 91.018 mm (3.5829 to 3.5834 inches)
Oversize
0.25 mm (0.010 inch) OS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.259 to 91.272 mm (3.5929 to 3.5934 inches)
0.50 mm (0.020 inch) OS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.513 to 91.526 mm (3.6029 to 3.6034 inches)
Pistons and rings
Piston-to-bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.043 mm (0.0007 to 0.0017 inch)
Piston ring end gap
No.1 (top) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.66 mm (0.016 to 0.026 inch)
No.2 (middle) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.66 mm (0.016 to 0.026 inch)
Oil ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.55 mm (0.012 to 0.022 inch)
Piston ring groove clearance
No. 1 (top) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.076 mm (0.0016 to 0.0030 inch)
No. 2 (middle) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.076 mm (0.0016 to 0.0030 inch)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 to 142 100 to 105
Connecting rod cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 60 37 to 44
* Note:Refer to Part A for additional torque specifications.
2B•2 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
1 General information
Included in this portion of Chapter 2 are the
general overhaul procedures for the cylinder
head and internal engine components.
The information ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts to detailed,
step-by-step procedures covering removal
and refitting of internal engine components
and the inspection of parts.
The following Sections have been written
based on the assumption that the engine has
been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine
repair, as well as removal and refitting of the
external components necessary for the
overhaul, see Part A of this Chapter.
The Specifications included in this Part are
only those necessary for the inspection and
overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to
Part A for additional Specifications.
2 Engine overhaul-
general information
It’s not always easy to determine when, or if,
an engine should be completely overhauled,
as a number of factors must be considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an indication
that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage
doesn’t preclude the need for an overhaul.
Frequency of servicing is probably the most
important consideration. An engine that’s had
regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as
well as other required maintenance, will most
likely give many thousands of miles of reliableservice. Conversely, a neglected engine may
require an overhaul very early in its life.
Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure that
oil leaks aren’t responsible before deciding
that the rings and/or guides are bad. Perform a
cylinder compression check to determine the
extent of the work required (see Section 4).
Also check the vacuum readings under various
conditions (see Section 3).
Check the oil pressure with a gauge
installed in place of the oil pressure sender
unit (see illustrations)and compare it to this
Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s extremely low,
the bearings and/or oil pump are probably
worn out.
Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve train
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
especially if they’re all present at the same
time. If a complete tune-up doesn’t remedy
the situation, major mechanical work is the
only solution.An engine overhaul involves restoring the
internal parts to the specifications of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings
are replaced and the cylinder walls are
reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a
rebore is done by an automotive machine
workshop, new oversize pistons will also be
installed. The main bearings, big-end bearings
and camshaft bearings are generally replaced
with new ones and, if necessary, the
crankshaft may be reground to restore the
journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as
well, since they’re usually in less-than-perfect
condition at this point. While the engine is
being overhauled, other components, such as
the distributor, starter and alternator, can be
rebuilt as well. The end result should be a like
new engine that will give many trouble free
miles. Note:Critical cooling system
components such as the hoses, drivebelts,
thermostat and water pump should be
replaced with new parts when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully to ensure that it isn’t clogged or
leaking (see Chapter 3).If you purchase a
2.4a The oil pressure sender unit (arrowed)
is located in the right front corner of the
engine block, near the oil filter2.4b The oil pressure can be checked by
removing the sender unit and refitting a
pressure gauge in its place

11Disconnect the throttle linkage,
transmission linkage (and dipstick tube) and
speed control cable, if equipped, from the
engine (see Chapters 4 and 7).
12Refer to Part A of this Chapter and
remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
13Unbolt the power steering pump (see
Chapter 10). Tie the pump aside without
disconnecting the hoses. Refer to Part A for
removal of the hydraulic pump (if equipped)
from the timing chain cover.
14On air-conditioned models, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside. Do not
disconnect the refrigerant hoses. Note:Wire
the compressor out of the way with a coat
hanger, don’t let the compressor hang on the
hoses.
15Refer to Part A of this Chapter and
remove the drivebelts, water pump pulley and
crankshaft pulley.
16Attach a lifting sling to the engine.
Position a hoist and connect the sling to it.
Take up the slack until there is slight tension
on the hoist.
17With a trolley jack and piece of wood
supporting the bottom of the transmission
sump, refer to Chapter 8 and remove the
driveshaft and rear transmission mount.
Warning: Do not place any part
of your body under the
engine/transmission when it’s
supported only by a hoist or
other lifting device.
18With the hoist taking the weight of the
engine, unbolt the engine mounts (see Part A
of this Chapter).
19Recheck to be sure nothing is still
connecting the engine or transmission to the
vehicle. Disconnect and label anything still
remaining.
20Slowly lift the engine/transmission out of
the vehicle (see illustration). It may be
necessary to pry the mounts away from the
frame brackets.21Move the engine away from the vehicle
and carefully lower the hoist until the
engine/transmission can be set on the floor.
Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the
transmission and converter. Refer to Part A of
this Chapter for removal of the flywheel. With
the flywheel removed, remove the four large
bolts and the transmission adapter plate from
the engine (see illustration).
22Refer to Part A of this Chapter for removal
of the rear main seal retainer plate from the
back of the engine, then lift the engine to a
position where it can be attached to a sturdy
engine stand.
Refitting
23Check the engine/transmission mounts. If
they’re worn or damaged, renew them.
24Attach the hoist and remove the engine
from the stand. Refer to Part A of this Chapter
and renew the rear main seal and retainer
plate, then reattach the transmission adapter
plate and refer to Chapter 7 for mounting the
converter and transmission.
25Carefully lower the engine into the vehicle
with the hoist. An assistant is helpful to guide
the engine clear of accessories in the engine
compartment as the engine is lowered into
place.
26Refit the engine mount bolts and tighten
them securely. Raise the back of the
transmission with the trolley jack and reattach
the transmission mount, driveshaft and shift
linkage.
27Refit the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
28Add coolant, oil, power steering and
transmission fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
29Run the engine and check for proper
operation and leaks. Shut off the engine and
recheck the fluid levels.
7 Engine rebuilding
alternatives
The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a number
of options when performing an engine
overhaul. The decision to renew the engine
block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and
crankshaft depends on a number of factors,
with the number one consideration being the
condition of the engine block. Other
considerations are cost, access to machine
workshop facilities, parts availability, time
required to complete the project and the
extent of prior mechanical experience on the
part of the do-it-yourselfer.
Some of the rebuilding alternatives include:
Individual parts- If the inspection
procedures reveal that the engine block and
most engine components are in reusable
condition, purchasing individual parts may be
the most economical alternative. The engine
block, cylinder head, crankshaft, and
piston/connecting rod assemblies should all
be inspected carefully. Even if the engine
block shows little wear, the cylinder bores
should be surface honed.
Short block- A short block consists of an
engine block with a crankshaft and
piston/connecting rod assemblies already
installed. All new bearings are incorporated
and all clearances will be correct. The existing
camshafts, valve train components, cylinder
head and external parts can be bolted to the
short block with little or no machine workshop
work necessary.
Long block- A long block consists of a
short block plus an oil pump, sump, cylinder
head, valve cover, camshaft and valve train
components, timing sprockets and chain or
gears and timing cover. All components are
installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•5
2B
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.20 Lift the engine high enough to clear the vehicle, tilting it up
at the front to clear the front crossmember, then move it away
and lower the hoist
6.21 With the engine on the floor but still supported by the hoist,
remove the four large bolts (arrowed) and pull off the
transmission adapter plate

incorporated throughout. The refitting of
manifolds and external parts is all that’s
necessary. Engines in this rebuilt form are
available from Jaguar dealers, and some
independent rebuilders.
Give careful thought to which alternative is
best for you and discuss the situation with
local automotive machine shops, auto parts
dealers and experienced rebuilders before
ordering or purchasing replacement parts.
8 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
1It’s much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it’s mounted on a portable
engine stand. A stand can often be rented
quite cheaply from an equipment rental yard.
Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the
driveplate and rear oil seal retainer should be
removed from the engine.
2If a stand isn’t available, it’s possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on the
floor. Be extra careful not to tip or drop the
engine when working without a stand.
3If you’re going to obtain a rebuilt engine, all
external components must come off first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine, just
as they will if you’re doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself. These include:
Alternator and brackets
Emissions control components
Distributor, spark plug leads and spark
plugs
Thermostat and housing cover
Water pump
EFI components
Intake/exhaust manifolds
Oil filter
Engine mounts
Driveplate
Transmission adapter plate
Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the installed
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
brackets, washers, bolts and other small items.
4If you’re obtaining a short block, which
consists of the engine block, crankshaft,
pistons and connecting rods all assembled,
then the cylinder head, sump and oil pump will
have to be removed as well from your engine
so that your short-block can be turned in to
the rebuilder as a core. See Engine rebuilding
alternativesfor additional information
regarding the different possibilities to be
considered.
5If you’re planning a complete overhaul, the
engine must be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order:
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Valve cover
Upper timing chain and camshaft
sprocketsCamshafts
Timing chain cover
Cylinder head
Sump
Oil pump
Piston/connecting rod assemblies
Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer
Crankshaft and main bearings
6Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure the following
items are available. Also, refer to Section 21
for a list of tools and materials needed for
engine reassembly.
Common hand tools
Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for
storing parts
Gasket scraper
Ridge reamer
Micrometers
Telescoping gauges
Dial indicator set
Valve spring compressor
Cylinder surfacing hone
Piston ring groove-cleaning tool
Electric drill motor
Tap and die set
Wire brushes
Oil gallery brushes
Cleaning solvent
Special Jaguar tools
Engine lifting brackets (18G 1465)
Timing damper simulator (18E 1436)
Camshaft TDC tool (18G 1433)
9 Cylinder head- dismantling
2
Note: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are
available from Jaguar and some independent
rebuilders. Due to the fact that some
specialised tools are necessary for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
replacement parts may not be readily
available, it may be more practical and
economical for the home mechanic to
purchase a replacement cylinder head rather
than taking the time to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original.1Cylinder head dismantling involves removal
of the intake and exhaust valves and related
components. It’s assumed that the lifters and
camshafts have already been removed (see
Part A as needed).
2Before the valves are removed, arrange to
label and store them, along with their related
components, so they can be kept separate
and reinstalled in the same valve guides they
are removed from (see illustration).
3Compress the springs on the first valve with
a spring compressor and remove the keepers
(see illustration). Carefully release the valve
spring compressor and remove the retainer,
the spring and the spring seat (if used). Note:
If your spring compressor does not have an
end (such as the one shown) with cut-outs on
the side, an adapter is available to use with a
standard spring compressor.
Caution: Be very careful not to nick or
otherwise damage the lifter bores when
compressing the valve springs.
4Pull the valve out of the cylinder head, then
remove the oil seal from the guide. If the valve
binds in the guide (won’t pull through), push it
back into the cylinder head and deburr the
area around the keeper groove with a fine file
or whetstone.
5Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Remember to keep all the parts for
each valve together so they can be reinstalled
in the same locations.
6Once the valves and related components
have been removed and stored in an
organised manner, the cylinder head should
be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a
complete engine overhaul is being done,
finish the engine dismantling procedures
before beginning the cylinder head cleaning
and inspection process.
10 Cylinder head-
cleaning and inspection
2
1Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head(s)
and related valve train components, followed
by a detailed inspection, will enable you to
decide how much valve service work must be
2B•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
9.2 A small plastic bag, with an appropriate
label, can be used to store the valve train
components so they can be kept together
and reinstalled in the correct guide
3261 Jaguar XJ6
9.3 Compress the spring until the keepers
can be removed with a small magnetic
screwdriver or needle-nose pliers - use a
valve spring compressor with an adapter
(arrowed) to remove the keepers

reveal valuable information about the condition
of the engine (see illustration).
2Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign
particles, overloading the engine and corrosion.
Regardless of the cause of failure, it must be
corrected before the engine is reassembled to
prevent it from happening again.
3When examining the bearings, remove
them from the engine block, the main bearing
caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps
and lay them out on a clean surface in the
same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal.
4Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the PCV system. It may get
into the oil, and from there into the bearings.
Metal chips from machining operations and
normal engine wear are often present.
Abrasives are sometimes left in engine
components after reconditioning, especially
when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using
the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the
source, these foreign objects often end up
embedded in the soft bearing material and are
easily recognised. Large particles will not
embed in the bearing and will score or gouge
the bearing and journal. The best prevention
for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all
parts thoroughly and keep everything
spotlessly clean during engine assembly.
Frequent and regular engine oil and filter
changes are also recommended.5Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off
(from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil
pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Low speed operation in too high a
gear (labouring the engine) puts extremely
high loads on bearings, which tends to
squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause
the bearings to flex, which produces fine
cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure).
Eventually the bearing material will loosen in
pieces and tear away from the steel backing.
Short trip driving leads to corrosion of
bearings because insufficient engine heat is
produced to drive off the condensed water
and corrosive gases. These products collect
in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As
the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the
acid attacks and corrodes the bearing
material.
7Incorrect bearing refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
oil clearance, and this will lead to oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing insert result in high spots on
the bearing which lead to failure.
Selection
8If the original bearings are worn or
damaged, or if the oil clearances are incorrect
(see Sections 23 or 25), the following
procedures should be used to select the
correct new bearings for engine reassembly.
However, if the crankshaft has been reground,
new undersize bearings must be installed -
the following procedure should not be used if
undersize bearings are required! The
automotive machine workshop that
reconditions the crankshaft will provide or
help you select the correct-size bearings.
Regardless of how the bearing sizes are
determined, use the oil clearance, measured
with Plastigage, as a guide to ensure the
bearings are the right size.
9If you need to use a STANDARD size main
or big-end bearing, refit one that has the same
number as the original bearing. Note:4.0 litre
engines after #164637 have sized crankshafts
and bearings in three grades, indicated by
colour and letter. The codes are stamped into
the front throw of the crankshaft(see
illustration). Match replacement bearings by
the colour codes: pink (P), white (W) or
green (G) for main bearings; red (R), yellow (Y)
or blue (B) for the three grades of big-end
bearings.
10Remember, the oil clearance is the final
judge when selecting new bearing sizes. If you
have any questions or are unsure which
bearings to use, get help from a dealer parts
or service department.
2B•14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 20.1 When inspecting the main and big-end bearings, look for
these problems
20.9 Later model 4.0 litre engines have graded journals and
bearings, with the markings indicated on the front throw of the
crankshaft - “A” indicates the front of the engine, “B” indicates
the codes for the main journals/bearings, and “C” indicates the
connecting rod journal grades

3261 Jaguar XJ6
3
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
General
Radiator cap pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.5 to 117.5 psi
Thermostat rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 207° F
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pipe to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan assembly-to-drive hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat housing-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21 Air conditioning and heating system - check and maintenance . . . . 13
Air conditioning compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Air conditioning condenser - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Air conditioning receiver/drier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Antifreeze/coolant - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sender unit - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine cooling fans - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Engine oil cooler - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater and air conditioning blower motors -circuit check
and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater and air conditioning control assembly -
check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater core - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator, expansion tank and coolant reservoir -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Underbonnet hose check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Water pump and pipes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ a
pressurised engine cooling system with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation.
An impeller type water pump mounted on the
front of the block pumps coolant through the
engine. The coolant flows around each cylinder
and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the
intake and exhaust ports, near the spark plug
areas and in proximity to the exhaust valve
guides.A wax-pellet type thermostat is located in
the thermostat housing at the front of the
engine. During warm up, the closed
thermostat prevents coolant from circulating
through the radiator. When the engine
reaches normal operating temperature, the
thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to
travel through the radiator, where it is cooled
before returning to the engine.
The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-
type radiator cap. This raises the boiling point
of the coolant, and the higher boiling point of
the coolant increases the cooling efficiency
of the radiator. If the system pressure exceeds
the cap pressure-relief value, the excess
pressure in the system forces the spring-
loaded valve inside the cap off its seat and
allows the coolant to escape through the
overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. Whenthe system cools, the excess coolant is
automatically drawn from the reservoir back
into the radiator. This type of cooling system is
known as a closed design because coolant
that escapes past the pressure cap is saved
and reused.
The Jaguar cooling system on 1988 and
1989 models has both a manifold tank and a
coolant recovery tank. The manifold tank is the
highest point in the cooling system and is the
location of the “radiator” cap (the cap is not on
the radiator). The recovery tank down in the
passenger’s footwell collects heated coolant
as described above. Models from 1990 to
1994 do not have a coolant recovery tank, but
have an enlarged manifold tank. In all models,
the recovery tank has a sensor in it to detect a
low coolant level, and the instrument panel has
a warning light to that effect.