ECU JEEP CHEROKEE 1994 Service Owners Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 1994, Model line: CHEROKEE, Model: JEEP CHEROKEE 1994Pages: 1784, PDF Size: 77.09 MB
Page 1163 of 1784

FRONT BEARING, SEAL AND PIN
INSTALLATION
(1) Press front bearing on input shaft. Then secure
bearing with thickest snap ring that will fit in shaft
groove (Fig. 70).
(2) Press front bearing on cluster gear. Then se-
cure bearing with thickest snap ring that will fit in
ring groove on gear (Fig. 71).
(3) Install new oil seals in front bearing retainer and
adapter housing (Fig. 72). Installation depth for bearing
retainer seal is 10.5 - 11.5 mm (0.414 - 0.453 in.).
(4) Install reverse shaft and shaft retaining pin in
adapter housing. Then install access hole plug with
torx bit (Fig. 73).
Fig. 70 Selecting Input Shaft Front Bearing Snap
Ring
Fig. 71 Selecting Cluster Gear Front Bearing Snap
Ring
Fig. 72 Oil Seal Installation
Fig. 73 Installing Reverse Shaft Pin
21 - 52 AX 15 MANUAL TRANSMISSIONJ
Page 1169 of 1784

(8) Install 1-2 shift rail in intermediate plate and
1-2 fork (Fig. 92).
(9) Coat 3-4 shift rail interlock plug with petro-
leum jelly and install plug in intermediate plate (Fig.
93).
(10) Install 3-4 shift rail in intermediate plate and
in both shift forks (Fig. 94).
(11) Verify that none of interlock balls, plugs, or
pins were displaced during shift rail installation.
(12) Install and tighten shift fork setscrews to 20
Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 95).
(13) Install 1-2 and 3-4 shift rail C-rings (Fig. 96).
(14) Insert fifth gear shift rail through reverse
shift fork.Then slide rail into intermediate plate
just far enough to secure interlock ball. Do not
fully install shift rail at this time.
Fig. 94 Installing 3-4 Shift Rail
Fig. 95 Installing Shift Fork Set Screws
Fig. 96 Installing Shift Rail C-Rings
Fig. 92 Installing 1-2 Shift Rail
Fig. 93 Installing 3-4 Shift Rail Interlock Plug
21 - 58 AX 15 MANUAL TRANSMISSIONJ
Page 1171 of 1784

(6) Install synchro ring in synchro sleeve (Fig. 102).
(7) Install fifth spline gear on cluster journal (Fig.
103). Tap spline gear into place with plastic mallet if
necessary.
(8) Install fifth gear selective snap ring (Fig. 104).
Use thickest snap ring that will fit in shaft groove.
(9) Install reverse shift head and rail (Fig. 105).
Then install lock ball in shift head.
(10) Position fifth gear shift fork in synchro sleeve
(Fig. 106).
(11) Install fifth gear shift rail (Fig. 107). Slide rail
through fork, shift head, intermediate plate and re-
verse shift fork. Be sure interlock ball is not dis-
placed during installation.
(12) Align screw holes in shift fork and rail and in-
stall set screw (Fig. 108). Tighten screw to 20 Nzm
(15 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install lock balls and springs in intermediate
plate (Fig. 109). Then install and tighten lock ball
plugs to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Install reverse shift arm bracket (Fig. 110).
Tighten bracket bolts to 18 Nzm (13 ft. lbs.) torque.(15) Install reverse shift arm (Fig. 110). Position
arm on reverse fork pin and engage it with pin on
shift arm bracket.
(16) Verify that shift arm shoe is engaged in re-
verse idler gear. Then secure shift arm to pin on re-
verse fork with new E-clip.
GEAR CASE AND ADAPTER INSTALLATION
(1) Dismount intermediate and gear assemblies
from vise.
Fig. 104 Installing Fifth Gear Snap Ring
Fig. 105 Installing Reverse Shift Head And Rail
Fig. 102 Installing Fifth Gear Synchro Ring
Fig. 103 Installing Fifth Spline Gear
21 - 60 AX 15 MANUAL TRANSMISSIONJ
Page 1173 of 1784

(3) Apply 3 mm (1/8 in.) wide bead of Mopar Gas-
ket Maker to mating surface of gear case. Keep
sealer bead inside bolt holes as shown (Fig. 111).
(4) Install gear case (Fig. 112). Align shift rails and
bearings in case and tap case into position.
(5) Verify that gear case is seated on intermediate
plate dowel pins.
(6) Install front bearing snap rings (Fig. 113).
(7) Clean gear case and front bearing retainer seal-
ing surfaces with wax and grease remover. Then
wipe dry with a clean cloth.
(8) Install new seal in front bearing retainer. Then
lubricate seal lip with petroleum jelly.Installation
depth for seal is 10.5 - 11.5 mm (0.413 - 0.453 in.).
(9) Applya3mm(1/8 in.) wide bead of Mopar
Gasket Maker to front bearing retainer sealing sur-
face.
(10) Align and install front bearing retainer (Fig.
114). Be sure retainer is properly seated on case and
bearings.
(11) Install and tighten front bearing retainer bolts
to 17 Nzm (12 ft. lbs.) torque.(12) On 2-wheel drive models, install speedometer
gear, lock ball and retaining rings (Fig. 115). Be sure
lock ball is engaged in gear.
(13) Inspect condition o reverse pin in adapter/ex-
tension housing (Fig. 116). If pin is worn or damaged,
replace it as follows:
(a) Remove roll pin access plug (Fig. 117).
(b) Tap roll pin out of housing with pin punch
(Fig. 118). Then remove old reverse pin.
(c) Install new reverse pin and secure it with roll
pin. Then install and tighten access plug to 19 Nzm
(14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Clean sealing surfaces of adapter or extension
housing and intermediate plate with wax and grease
remover. Then wipe dry with a clean cloth.
Fig. 111 Applying Sealer To Gear Case
Fig. 112 Installing Gear Case
Fig. 113 Installing Front Bearing Snap Rings
Fig. 114 Installing Front Bearing Retainer
21 - 62 AX 15 MANUAL TRANSMISSIONJ
Page 1185 of 1784

Some suspected converter housing fluid leaks may
not be leaks at all. Residual fluid in the housing, or
excess fluid spilled during factory fill or refill after
repair can be mistaken for a leak. In addition, a rear
main seal leak can also be mistaken for a pump seal
leak if care is exercised.
Converter housing leaks have several potential
sources. Through careful observation, a leak source
can be identified before removing the transmission
for repair.
Pump seal leaks tend to move along the drive hub
and onto the rear of the converter. Pump O-ring or
pump body leaks follow the same path as a seal leak
(Fig. 9).
Pump vent or pump attaching bolt leaks are gener-
ally deposited on the inside of the converter housing
and not on the converter itself (Fig. 9).
Pump seal or gasket leaks usually travel down the
inside of the converter housing.
Front band lever pin plug leaks are generally de-
posited on the housing and not on the converter.
LEAK DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and allow accumu-
lated fluid to drain out of the converter housing.
(2) Check and adjust the transmission fluid level.
(3) Raise the vehicle. Remove the converter hous-
ing dust cover and wipe as much fluid as possible
from the converter housing.
(4) Fabricate a test probe (Fig. 10). Then attach
the probe to the converter housing with one of the
dust shield bolts (Fig. 10).
(5) Have a helper run the engine at 2500 rpm
(with the transmission in Neutral) for two minutes;
then stop the engine.
(6) Inspect the test probe and converter housing. If
a leak is evident, note the color of the fluid. Trans-
mission fluid is red. Engine oil ranges in color from
brown to green, or to black when the oil is dirty.(7) If the probe upper surface is dry, the converter
and seal are not at fault. A path of fluid across the
probe upper surface indicates a converter or seal
leak. Fluid leakingunderthe probe is coming from
the pump housing area (Fig. 11).
(8) Fluid leaking under the probe could be from
the: pump seal and/or bushing, pump vent, kickdown
lever shaft access plug, pump bolts, or porous spots
in the pump body or transmission case (Fig. 11).
(9) If porous spots in the transmission case or
pump body are the suspected leak source, pressurize
the transmission as described in Leak Testing With
Air Pressure.
LEAK TESTING WITH AIR PRESSURE
This test involves closing off the transmission
openings and pressurizing the transmission to 8 psi
with Air Pump Tool 7700. A soapy water solution is
applied to suspected leak points before and during
the pressure test. Leaks will be indicated by the
presence of air bubbles coming through the solution.
Some transmission openings such as the fill tube
and front cooler line fitting can be closed off with a
rubber plug or similar device. Plugs can secured with
wire or duct tape.
Fig. 9 Typical Converter Housing Leak Paths
Fig. 10 Leak Test Probe
Fig. 11 Pump Area Inspection Points
21 - 74 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSISJ
Page 1186 of 1784

The transmission rear output shaft opening is
closed off simply by leaving the transfer case bolted
in place. However, if the transfer case has been re-
moved, a shipping plug can used to close off this
opening.
The torque converter hub opening in the pump and
the pump vent require special tools to close them off.
The converter hub seal cap is made from thin wall
tube anda3mm(1/8 in.) thick disc (Fig. 12). A re-
taining strap is needed to secure the seal cup for
testing. The strap can be made from 32 mm (1-1/4
in.) wide stock (Fig. 13). The strap attaching hole po-
sitions are approximate only. Measure hole position
on the converter housing before drilling.
The pump vent tool is made from 6 mm (1/4 in.)
rod and 5 mm (3/16 in.) plate (Fig. 14). The fabri-
cated tools can all be made from mild steel or alumi-
num stock.
AIR PRESSURE LEAK TEST PROCEDURE
(1) Install vent plug, converter hub seal cup and
cup retaining strap (Fig. 15).(2) Close off remaining transmission openings with
rubber plugs, or stoppers.Do not close off rear
cooler line fitting. Air pump will be attached to
this fitting.
(3) Attach Air Pump 7700 to rear cooler line fit-
ting. Connect length of copper tube to fitting. Then
attach air pump hose to tube with hose clamp (Fig.
16).
(4) Apply thick soapy water solution to suspected
leak areas.
CAUTION: The recommended test pressure is 8
psi. The maximum allowable test pressure is 10 psi.
Do not exceed specified test pressure.
(5) Pressurize transmission to 8 psi with air pump.
(6) Observe suspected leak areas. Air bubbles ap-
pearing in soapy water solution indicate leak points.
(7) Remove test tools and plugs after test comple-
tion and make necessary repairs as described in Leak
Correction procedure.
Fig. 12 Converter Hub Seal Cup
Fig. 13 Seal Cup Retaining Strap
Fig. 14 Pump Vent Plug
Fig. 15 Vent Plug And Hub Seal Cup Installation
J30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSIS 21 - 75
Page 1217 of 1784

condenser. The auxiliary cooler is a serviceable com-
ponent and can be repaired if necessary.
The main and auxiliary coolers should be thor-
oughly reverse flushed if a transmission failure
contaminates the fluid. Reverse flushing the cooler
and lines will prevent sludge and particles from
flowing back into the transmission after repair.
The same flushing procedure is used for main and
auxiliary coolers. Pressure equipment is preferred for
reverse flushing. However, reverse flushing can be
performed using hand operated equipment as de-
scribed in the following procedure.
REVERSE FLUSHING PROCEDURE
(1) Disconnect cooler lines at transmission. Refer
to Figure 21 for cooler line fitting identification.
Front fitting is outlet to cooler and rear fitting is in-
let from cooler.
(2) Position drain pan under cooler outlet line to
material flushed through cooler and lines.
(3) Reverse flush cooler using hand operated suc-
tion gun filled with mineral spirits. Insert gun nozzle
(or hose) into cooler inlet (return) line. Then force
mineral spirits through Line and cooler.
(4) Continue reverse flushing until fluid exiting in-
let (pressure) line is clear and free of debris/residue.
Replace radiator if fluid cannot be pumped
through cooler.
(5) Clear flushing materials from cooler and lines
with short pulses of compressed air. Insert air gun
nozzle into cooler inlet (return) line and continue
short pulses of air until all fluid is cleared from
cooler and lines.
(6) Pump one quart of fresh automatic transmis-
sion fluid through cooler and lines before reconnect-
ing cooler lines.
TRANSMISSION COOLER FLOW TESTING
The transmission main and auxiliary coolers
should be flow tested whenever a fluid overheat con-
dition is suspected. An overheat condition is indi-
cated when the fluid changes from the normal red, to
a dark orange, or brown color.
The same method of flow testing is used for both
coolers.Cooler flow is checked by measuring the amount of
fluid flow through the cooler in a 20 second time pe-
riod. The test is performed with the engine running
and transmission in neutral. Fluid is then pumped
through the cooler by the transmission oil pump.
(1) Disconnect cooler inlet line at transmission fitting.
(2) Securely attach hose to end of inlet line and po-
sition line in a one quart test container.
(3) Add extra quart of fluid to transmission.
(4) Use stopwatch to check flow test time.
(5) Shift transmission into neutral and set parking
brake.
(6) Start and run engine at curb idle speed and im-
mediately note cooler flow. Approximately one quart of
fluid should flow into test container in 20 second period.
(7) If cooler flow is intermittent, flows less than
one quart in 20 seconds, or does not flow at all,
cooler is faulty and must be replaced.
SERVICING TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES AND
FITTINGS
Fitting Types
The transmission cooler lines are attached with
quick disconnect fittings.
A flange on the cooler line serves as the sealing
mechanism. The wire retainer clip (Fig. 22), secures
the cooler line in the fitting by this flange. The clip
fits behind the flange to hold the line in place.
Three different fitting styles may be used. Type 1
fittings have the retainer clip exposed (Fig. 22). Type
2 fittings have the retainer clip and fitting body en-
cased in a shrink wrap material (Fig. 23). Type 3 fit-
tings have the retainer clip encased in a metal sleeve
crimped onto the fitting body (Fig. 24).
Fitting Release Tool
A release tool isrequiredto disconnect each of the
fitting types. A plastic tool is clipped directly to one
of the cooler lines on models with the type 2 and 3
fittings. This tool can also be used to disconnect type
1 fittings. The tool is needed to spread the wire re-
tainer clip in each fitting. The clip must be opened in
order to release the cooler line from the fitting.
Fig. 21 Identifying Transmission Cooler Lines
Fig. 22 Type 1 Quick Disconnect Fitting
21 - 106 30RH/32RH IN-VEHICLE SERVICEJ
Page 1218 of 1784

Fitting And Cooler Line Service
The cooler lines and quick disconnect fittings are
NOT serviceable. Damaged fittings or cooler lines
are to be replaced as assemblies.
Fittings swedged into cooler line hoses (Fig. 25) are
serviced only as part of the entire cooler line.
DISCONNECTING COOLER LINES WITH
QUICK DISCONNECT FITTINGS
(1) If fitting and cooler line are encrusted with
dirt, mud, or grease, clean fitting and cooler line
with Mopar spray type carburetor or brake cleaner.
Plastic release tool will not fit into retainer clip if fit-
ting is full of foreign material.
(2) Slide small plastic release tool into fitting until
tool bottoms against flange on cooler line (Fig. 26).
(3) Push and turn tool to spread retainer clip and
pull cooler line out of fitting (Fig. 26).
(4) Cover open ends of cooler lines and fittings to
prevent dirt entry.
(5) Inspect condition of fitting. Replace transmis-
sion fitting as an assembly if fitting body or retainer
clip is damaged. Replace cooler line as assembly, if
fitting swedged into cooler line hose, is damaged.
REATTACHING COOLER LINES WITH QUICK
DISCONNECT FITTINGS
(1) If transmission or radiator fittings require re-
placement, apply Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite 242
to fitting threads before installation.
(2) Wipe off cooler line and fitting with clean, dry
cloth.
(3) Insert cooler line into fitting. Then push line
inward until retainer clip secures line. A snap or
click sound will be heard and felt through the line
when the retainer clip seats behind the cooler line
flange.
(4)Pull outward on cooler lines to verify that
they are properly secured.
CAUTION: The wire retainer clips must secure the
cooler lines in the fittings. If the clips are deformed, or
distorted, normal fluid pressure could unseat the cooler
lines resulting in fluid loss and transmission damage.
Be very sure the cooler lines are firmly secured by the
retainer clip as described in step (4) above.
Fig. 23 Type 2 Quick Disconnect fitting
Fig. 24 Type 3 Quick Disconnect fitting
Fig. 25 Transmission And Cooler Line Fitting Placement
Fig. 26 Disconnecting Cooler Line With Release
Tool (Type 2 Fitting Shown)
J30RH/32RH IN-VEHICLE SERVICE 21 - 107
Page 1219 of 1784

30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
INDEX
page page
ConverterÐPump SealÐDrive Plate Service . . . 109
Transmission and Converter Installation....... 109Transmission and Converter Removal........ 108
TRANSMISSION AND CONVERTER REMOVAL
(1) Remove fan shroud attaching bolts.
(2) Disconnect transmission fill tube at upper
bracket.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove inspection cover from converter hous-
ing and remove skid plate for access, if necessary.
(5) Remove transmission fill tube and fill tube
O-ring.
(6) Remove starter motor.
(7) Mark propeller shafts and axle yokes for align-
ment reference.
(8) Disconnect propeller shafts at yokes. Secure
shafts to frame rails with wire.
(9) Disconnect exhaust pipes at exhaust manifolds,
if necessary.
(10) Drain transfer case lubricant.
(11) Disconnect vehicle speed sensor wires.
(12) Disconnect transfer case shift linkage.
(13) Disconnect gearshift linkage and throttle ca-
ble at transmission levers.
(14) Disconnect park/neutral position switch wires.
(15) Disconnect and remove crankshaft position
sensor. Retain sensor bolt for reinstallation.
CAUTION: The crankshaft position sensor can be
damaged during transmission removal (or installa-
tion) if the sensor is still bolted to the engine block.
To avoid damage, remove the sensor before remov-
ing the transmission.
(16) Remove converter housing access cover and
mark drive plate and converter for alignment refer-
ence.
(17) Remove bolts attaching converter to drive
plate.
(18) Support engine with support stand.
(19) Support transmission-transfer case assembly
with transmission jack. Secure transmission to jack
with safety chain.
(20) Remove bolts/nuts attaching cushion and
torque arm bracket to skid plate (Fig. 1).
(21) Remove skid plate, or rear crossmember, if
equipped.
(22) Lower transmission slightly and disconnect
cooler lines at transmission.Refer to In-Vehicle
Service section for procedures.(23) Remove bolts attaching transmission to en-
gine.
(24) Move transmission and converter rearward
until clear of crankshaft.
(25) Hold converter in position and lower transmis-
sion until converter housing clears engine.
(26) Remove converter from transmission.
(27) Remove transfer case from transmission.
(28) If necessary, following components can now be
serviced:
²torque converter
²torque converter drive plate
²oil pump seal
²engine rear core hole plugs
²engine rear oil galley plugs
Fig. 1 Transmission Rear Mount
21 - 108 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION REMOVAL AND INSTALLATIONJ
Page 1221 of 1784

(1) Lubricate converter drive hub and pump seal
with Mopar ATF Plus, or Dexron II transmission
fluid. Then install converter. Turn converter back
and forth to align drive slots in converter hub with
pump gear lugs. Be sure converter is fully seated in
pump (Fig. 5).
(2) Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp or
metal strap attached across converter housing.
(3) Position transmission on jack and secure it
with safety chains.
(4) Raise transmission and align converter with
drive plate.
(5) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower
or tilt transmission to align converter housing with
engine block dowels.
(6) Install two converter housing lower attaching
bolts and tighten bolts to draw housing toward en-
gine.
(7) Install and tighten converter attaching bolts.
(8) Install and tighten bolts that attach transmis-
sion to engine (Fig. 6).
(9) Install crankshaft position sensor as follows:
CAUTION: Clearance between the sensor pickup
face and driveplate ring gear must be correctly es-
tablished before engine startup. A cardboard
spacer, attached to the sensor face, is used for thispurpose. Failure to establish correct clearance will
result in sensor breakage.
(a) Remove any remaining fragments of original
cardboard spacer from sensor pickup face.
Fig. 5 Checking Torque Converter Seating
Fig. 6 Transmission Attachment
21 - 110 30RH/32RH TRANSMISSION REMOVAL AND INSTALLATIONJ