ECU JEEP CHEROKEE 1994 Service User Guide

REMOVALÐYJ MODELS
WARNING: EXTINGUISH ALL TOBACCO SMOKING
PRODUCTS BEFORE SERVICING THE FUEL SYS-
TEM. KEEP OPEN FLAME AWAY FROM FUEL SYS-
TEM COMPONENTS.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the fuel filler cap. Using an approved por-
table gasoline siphon/storage tank, drain fuel tank.
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Using a small straight blade screwdriver, pull
back the stems of the push clips that secure the fuel
filler neck shroud (located at bottom of left rear
wheel well) in place (Fig. 4). This unlocks the push
clip allowing them to be removed by pulling assem-
bly out of shroud. Remove shroud.
(5) Disconnect fuel fill hose and fill vent hose from
filler neck (Fig. 5).
WARNING: WRAP SHOP TOWELS AROUND FUEL
HOSES TO ABSORB ANY FUEL SPILLAGE DURING
FUEL TANK REMOVAL.(6) Disconnect fuel tank vent hose from vent tube.
Disconnect fuel supply and return hoses from tubes
(Fig. 6).
The fuel tank and skid plate are removed as an as-
sembly.
(7) Centrally position a transmission jack under
skid plate/fuel tank assembly.
(8) Remove skid plate/fuel tank assembly mount-
ing nuts (Fig. 7).Do not loosen tank strap nuts.
(9) Lower the skid plate/fuel tank assembly
slightly and disconnect the gauge sender wire con-
nector.
(10) Lower the fuel tank on transmission jack.
(11) Remove tank strap nuts to remove tank from
skid plate.
Fig. 4 Fuel Filler Neck ShroudÐYJ Models
Fig. 5 Filler Neck HosesÐYJ Models
Fig. 6 Fuel Tank HosesÐYJ Models
Fig. 7 Fuel TankÐRemove/InstallÐYJ Models
14 - 14 FUEL SYSTEMJ

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
IAC motor.
(2) Remove IAC motor torx head mounting bolts.
(3) Remove IAC motor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install IAC motor into throttle body and
tighten retaining bolts.
(2) Connect electrical connector to IAC motor.
IGNITION COIL
Refer to Group 8D, Ignition Systems for removal/
installation procedures.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Refer to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake
Manifold for removal/installation procedures.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
The MAP sensor is located on the dash panel near
the rear of the engine cylinder head (valve) cover
(Fig. 9).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector
(Fig. 9).
(2) Disconnect the MAP sensor vacuum supply
hose (Fig. 9).
(3) Remove the MAP sensor mounting bolts and
remove MAP sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install MAP sensor to dash panel and secure
with mounting bolts.
(2) Install the MAP sensor vacuum supply hose.
(3) Connect the MAP sensor electrical connector.
OXYGEN (O2S) SENSOR
The O2S sensor is installed in the exhaust down
pipe just below the exhaust manifold flange (Fig. 10).
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD BECOMES
VERY HOT DURING ENGINE OPERATION. ALLOW
ENGINE TO COOL BEFORE REMOVING OXYGEN
SENSOR.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Separate the electrical connectors.
(3) Remove the O2S sensor from the exhaust man-
ifold. Snap-On oxygen sensor wrench (number YA
8875) may be used for removal and installation.
INSTALLATION
Threads of new factory oxygen sensors are coated
with anti-seize compound to aid in removal.
(1) Install the O2S sensor into the exhaust mani-
fold and tighten to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Connect the O2S sensor wire connector to the
main harness.
Fig. 8 Idle Air Control
MotorÐRemoval/InstallationÐTypical
Fig. 9 MAP SensorÐTypical
Fig. 10 Oxygen SensorÐTypical
JFUEL SYSTEM 14 - 57

ABS BRAKE DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
ABS Fault Diagnosis....................... 4
ABS System Wiring and Electrical Circuits...... 4
ABS Warning Light Display.................. 3
Brake Warning Light Display................. 4
Diagnosis Procedures...................... 3
ECU Diagnosis........................... 4
HCU Diagnosis........................... 4Loss of Sensor Input....................... 3
Operating Sound Levels.................... 3
Rear Speed Sensor Air Gap................. 3
Steering Response........................ 3
Vehicle Response in Antilock Mode............ 3
Wheel/Tire Size and Input Signals............. 3
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
ABS diagnosis involves three basic steps. First is
observation of the warning light display. Second is a
visual examination for low fluid level, leaks, parking
brakes applied, or obvious damage to system compo-
nents or wires. The third step involves using the
DRB II scan tool to identify a faulty component.
The visual examination requires a check of reser-
voir fluid level and all system components. Things to
look for are leaks, loose connections, or obvious com-
ponent damage.
The final diagnosis step involves using the DRB II
scan tool to determine the specific circuit or compo-
nent at fault. The tester is connected to the ABS di-
agnostic connector in the passenger compartment.
The connector is at the driver side of the center con-
sole under the instrument panel. Refer to the DRB II
scan tool Manual for tester procedures. Also refer to
the ABS Fault Diagnosis charts at the end of this
section for additional diagnosis information.
Initial faults should be cleared and the vehicle road
tested to reset any faults that remain in the system.
Faults can be cleared with the DRB II scan tool.
REAR SPEED SENSOR AIR GAP
The front wheel sensors are fixed and cannot be ad-
justed. Only the rear sensor air gap is adjustable. Air
gap must be set with a brass feeler gauge.
Correct air gap is important to proper signal gen-
eration. An air gap that is too large may cause com-
plete loss of sensor input. Or, a gap that is too small
could produce a false input signal, or damaging con-
tact between the sensor and tone ring.
WHEEL/TIRE SIZE AND INPUT SIGNALS
Antilock system operation is dependant on accurate
signals from the wheel speed sensors. Ideally, the ve-
hicle wheels and tires should all be the same size
and type. However, the Jeep ABS system is designed
to function with a compact spare tire installed.
OPERATING SOUND LEVELS
The ABS pump and solenoid valves may produce
some sound as they cycle on and off. This is a normal
condition and should not be mistaken for faulty oper-
ation.
VEHICLE RESPONSE IN ANTILOCK MODE
During antilock braking, the HCU solenoid valves
cycle rapidly in response to ECU inputs.
The driver will experience a pulsing sensation
within the vehicle as the solenoids decrease, hold, or
increase pressure as needed. A pulsing brake pedal
will also be noted.
The pulsing sensation occurs as the solenoids cycle
during antilock mode braking. A slight pulse in the
brake pedal may also be noted during the dynamic
self check part of system initialization.
STEERING RESPONSE
A modest amount of steering input is required dur-
ing extremely high deceleration braking, or when
braking on differing traction surfaces. An example of
differing traction surfaces would be when the left
side wheels are on ice and the right side wheels are
on dry pavement.
LOSS OF SENSOR INPUT
Sensor malfunctions will most likely be due to
loose connections, damaged sensor wires, incorrect
rear sensor air gap, or a malfunctioning sensor. Ad-
ditional causes of sensor faults would be sensor and
tone ring misalignment or damage.
ABS WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY
ABS Light Illuminates At Startup
The amber ABS light illuminates at startup as
part of the system self check feature. The light illu-
minates for 2-3 seconds then goes off as part of the
normal self check routine.
ABS Light Remains On After Startup
An ABS system fault is indicated when the light
remains on after startup. Diagnosis with the DRB II
JBRAKES 5 - 3

scan tool will be necessary to determine which ABS
component has malfunctioned.
ABS Light Illuminates During Brake Stop
A system fault such as loss of speed sensor signal
or solenoid failure, will cause the amber warning
light to illuminate. The most effective procedure here
is to check for obvious damage first. Then check the
electronic components with the DRB II scan tool.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY
The red brake warning light and the ABS light op-
erate independently. If the red light remains on after
startup or illuminates during a brake stop, refer to
the standard brake system diagnosis section. Either
the parking brakes are applied, or a wheel brake
malfunction has occurred.
ECU DIAGNOSIS
The ECU controls all phases of antilock system op-
eration. It also differentiates between normal and an-
tilock mode braking.
The ECU monitors and processes the signals gen-
erated from all of the system sensors at all times.
The ECU program includes a self check routine
that tests each of the system components. The self
check occurs during both phases of the initialization
program. A failure of the self check program will
cause the immediate illumination of the amber warn-
ing light. The light will also illuminate if a solenoid
or other system component fails during the dynamic
phase of initialization.
If a system malfunction should occur, do not imme-
diately replace the ECU. A blown system fuse, bad
chassis ground, or loss of feed voltage will each cause
a system malfunction similar to an ECU failure.
Never replace the ECU unless diagnosis with the
DRB II scan tool indicates this is necessary.
HCU DIAGNOSIS
The HCU pump and motor and solenoid valve body
are serviced only as an assembly. The HCU assembly
should not be replaced unless a fault has actually
been confirmed. Verify fault conditions with the DRB
II scan tool before proceeding with repair.
ABS SYSTEM WIRING AND ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS
Location of the ABS fuse (in the fuse panel) is
shown in Figure 1. The engine compartment harness
routing for the ABS components is shown in Figure 2.
ABS FAULT DIAGNOSIS
The fault diagnosis chart provides additional infor-
mation on potential ABS system faults. Use the
chart as a guide when diagnosing a system problem.
Fig. 1 ABS Fuse Location
5 - 4 BRAKESJ

when the cover is off. The second involves adding to,
or filling the cylinder reservoirs with a non-recom-
mended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If
the brakes are applied after contamination, system
flushing will be required. The master cylinder may
also have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston
seals replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reser-
voir compensator/return ports can cause brake drag
by restricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid will usually be discolored, milky, oily looking,
or foamy. In some cases, it may even appear as if the
fluid contains sludge.However, remember that
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally
be cloudy in appearance. These are normal con-
ditions and should not be mistaken for contami-
nation.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign
of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. How-
ever, calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can gen-
erate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION
Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov-
ered with grease and grit during repair.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a
cable tensioner mechanism. This applies to 1991
through 1994 YJ models and 1992 and later XJ
models. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at
the factory, will not need further adjustment un-
der normal circumstances. There are only two
instances when adjustment is required. The first
is when a new tensioner, or cables have been in-
stalled. And the second, is when the tensioner
and cables are disconnected for access to other
brake components.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum wear;
oversize drums; or inoperative shoe adjuster
components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper
brakeshoe adjustment, or mis-assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
5 - 10 BRAKESJ

assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear
²rear brakedrum wear
²brakedrums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify. If oversize drums are suspected, the
diameter of the braking surface will have to be
checked with an accurate drum gauge. Oversize
drums will cause low brake pedal and lack of park-
ing brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installa-
tion will result in unsatisfactory parking brake oper-
ation. Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause
drag, bind and pull along with poor parking brake
operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement
procedures are described in the Parking Brake sec-
tion.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). Over-
haul or replace cylinder.(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, power
booster or vacuum check valve is faulty. Install
known good check valve and repeat steps (2)
through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more
vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist
is not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster (Fig. 1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
Fig. 1 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal (Typical)
Fig. 2 Hand Operated Vacuum Pump (Typical)
JBRAKES 5 - 11

(7) Carefully move master cylinder aside and re-
move booster.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION
(1) Install check valve and grommet in booster.
Also install spacer on booster, if equipped.
(2) Position booster on dash panel and install
booster mounting bolts/nuts.
(3) Working inside vehicle, install nuts on booster
mounting studs.
(4) Attach booster push rod to brake pedal. Secure
push rod with new bolt and nuts.
(5) Tighten booster mounting bolts/stud nuts to 41
Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) on XJ and 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) on YJ.
(6) Tighten pedal push rod bolt inner nut to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque. Then tighten outer locknut to
8Nzm (75 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install master cylinder on booster studs.
Tighten attaching nuts to 21 Nzm (15 ft. lbs.).
(8) Connect vacuum hose to booster, top off master
cylinder fluid level and check brake operation.
Fig. 3 Master Cylinder Attachment (Typical)
Fig. 4 Booster Push Rod Attachment
Fig. 5 Booster Check Valve And Hose
JBRAKES 5 - 23

(9) Remove inboard shoe. Grasp ends of shoe and
tilt shoe outward to release springs from caliper pis-
ton (Fig. 8). Then remove shoe from caliper.
(10) Support caliper on box, mechanics stool, or se-
cure it to nearby suspension part with wire.Do not
allow brake hose to support caliper weight.
(11) Wipe caliper off with shop rags or towels.Do
not use compressed air. Compressed air can un-
seat dust boot and force dirt into piston bore.
(12) Inspect condition of caliper piston dust boot
(Fig. 9). Overhaul caliper if there is evidence of leak-
age past piston and dust boot. Then inspect caliper
bushings and boots (Fig. 9). Replace boots if torn or
cut. If bushings or boots are damaged, replace them.
DISC BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean brakeshoe mounting ledge slide surfaces
of steering knuckle with wire brush. Then apply
light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease to slide sur-
faces (Fig. 10).
(2) Lubricate caliper mounting bolts and bushings
(Fig. 10). Use GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone grease.(3) Keep new or original brakeshoes in sets.Do
not interchange them.
(4) Install inboard shoe in caliper (Fig. 11). Be
sure shoe retaining springs are fully seated in caliper
piston.
(5) Install outboard shoe in caliper (Fig. 12). Start
one end of shoe in caliper. Rotate shoe downward and
into place until shoe locating lugs and shoe spring
are seated.
(6) Verify that locating lugs on outboard shoe are
seated in caliper (Fig. 6).
(7) Install caliper. Position notches at lower end of
brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge (Fig. 13). Then
install caliper over rotor and seat upper ends of
brakeshoes on top mounting ledge (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Before securing the caliper, be sure the
caliper brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touch-
ing any chassis components. Also be sure the hose
is clear of all suspension and steering components.
Loosen and reposition the hose if necessary.
Fig. 7 Removing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 8 Removing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 9 Caliper Dust Boots And Bushing Locations
Fig. 10 Caliper Lubrication Points
5 - 26 BRAKESJ

ence) of piston and caliper boot groove (Fig. 24).
Grease serves as corrosion protection for these areas.
(8) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(9) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 25).
(10) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose fitting to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new washers on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 26).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 27).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 27).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on hub.
(2) Install caliper.
Fig. 24 Typical Caliper/Piston Areas To Be Lightly
Coated With Silicone Grease
Fig. 25 Seating Caliper Piston Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 26 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
5 - 30 BRAKESJ

(3) Install new spring nuts on wheel studs.
(4) Install wheel and lower vehicle.
DISC BRAKE ROTOR THICKNESS
Rotor minimum usable thickness is 22.7 mm (0.89
in.). This dimension is either cast, or stamped on the
rotor hub, or outer edge.
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake-
shoe contact surface.
Replace the rotor if worn below minimum thick-
ness. Also replace the rotor if refinishing would re-
duce thickness below the allowable minimum.
DISC BRAKE ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout whenever pedal pulsa-
tion, or rapid, uneven brakelining wear has occurred.
On 4-wheel drive models, the rotor must be se-
curely clamped to the hub to ensure an accurate
runout measurement. Secure the rotor with the
wheel nuts and 4 or 5 large diameter flat washers on
each stud as shown (Fig. 28).
Use a dial indicator to check lateral runout (Fig. 28).
Maximum allowable rotor lateral runout is 0.13
mm (0.005 in.).Check lateral runout with a dial indicator (Fig.
29). Excessive lateral runout will cause brake pedal
pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the brakeshoes.
Maximum allowable rotor runout for all models is
0.12 mm (0.005 in.).
DISC BRAKE ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at four to six points
around the rotor face. Position the micrometer ap-
proximately 2 cm (3/4 in.) from the rotor outer cir-
cumference for each measurement (Fig. 30).
Thickness should notvaryby more than 0.013 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Refinish
or replace the rotor if necessary.
Fig. 27 Rotor And Hub
Fig. 28 Securing4x4Rotor For Lateral Runout Check
Fig. 29 Typical Method Of Checking Rotor Lateral
Runout
Fig. 30 Measuring Rotor Thickness Variation
JBRAKES 5 - 31