engine JEEP CHEROKEE 1994 Service Manual Online

(3) Lower the vehicle.
PARK NEUTRAL SWITCH
Refer to Group 21, Transmissions for park neutral
switch service.
POWER STEERING PRESSURE SWITCHÐ2.5L
ENGINE ONLY
The power steering pressure switch is installed in
the power steering high pressure hose (Figs. 11 or
12).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
power steering pressure switch.
(2) Place a small container or shop towel beneath
the switch to collect any excess fluid.
(3) Remove the switch.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the power steering switch.
(2) Connect the electrical connector to the switch.(3) Check power steering fluid and add as neces-
sary.
(4) Start the engine and again check power steer-
ing fluid. Add fluid if necessary.
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
On XJ models, the PCM is located in the engine
compartment next to the air cleaner (Fig. 13). On YJ
models, the PCM is located in the engine compart-
ment behind the windshield washer fluid reservoir
(Fig. 14).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at the
battery.
(2) YJ Models Only: Remove the windshield
washer fluid tank.
(3) Loosen the 60-Way connector mounting bolt
(Figs. 13 or 14).
(4) Remove the electrical connector by pulling
straight back.
(5) Remove the three PCM mounting bolts.
(6) Remove PCM.
Fig. 11 Power Steering Pressure SwitchÐYJ Models
Fig. 12 Power Steering Pressure SwitchÐXJ Models
Fig. 13 PCM LocationÐXJ Models
Fig. 14 PCM LocationÐYJ Models
14 - 58 FUEL SYSTEMJ

INSTALLATION
(1) After the PCM electrical connector has been
separated from the PCM, inspect the pins for corro-
sion, being spread apart, bent or misaligned. Also in-
spect the pin heights in the connector. If the pin
heights are different, this would indicate a pin has
separated from the connector. Repair as necessary.
(2) Install PCM. Tighten three mounting bolts to 1
Nzm (9 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Engage 60-way connector into PCM. Tighten
connector mounting bolt to 4 Nzm (35 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) YJ Models: Install windshield washer fluid
tank.
(5) Connect negative cable to battery.
QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
Refer to the Fuel Delivery System section of this
group for removal/installation procedures.
THROTTLE BODY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Disconnect air cleaner hose from throttle body.
(3) Disconnect idle air control motor and throttle
position sensor wire connectors.
(4) Disconnect accelerator cable, throttle cable (au-
tomatic transmission) and speed control cable (if
equipped) from throttle arm (Fig. 15).
(5) Remove throttle body mounting bolts, throttle
body and gasket. Discard old gasket (Fig. 16).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install throttle body and new gasket. Tighten
throttle body mounting bolts to 12 Nzm (9 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Connect idle air control motor and throttle po-
sition sensor wire connectors.
(3) Connect throttle linkage to throttle arm.CAUTION: When the automatic transmission throttle
cable is connected, it MUST be adjusted.
(4) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
connect and adjust the transmission line pressure ca-
ble. Refer to Group 21, Transmissions for adjustment
procedure.
(5) Install air cleaner hose to throttle body.
(6) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
The TPS is mounted to the throttle body (Figs. 17
or 18).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect TPS electrical connector.
(2) Remove TPS mounting bolts.
(3) Remove TPS.
INSTALLATION
The throttle shaft end of the throttle body slides
into a socket in the TPS (Fig. 19). The TPS must be
installed so that it can be rotated a few degrees. (If
Fig. 16 Throttle
BodyÐRemoval/InstallationÐTypical
Fig. 17 TPS LocationÐ2.5L Engine
Fig. 15 Cables at Throttle Body
JFUEL SYSTEM 14 - 59

the sensor will not rotate, install the sensor with the
throttle shaft on the other side of the socket tangs).
The TPS will be under slight tension when rotated.
(1) Install the TPS and retaining bolts.
(2) Connect TPS electrical connector to TPS.
(3) Manually operate the throttle (by hand) to
check for any TPS binding before starting the en-
gine.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH RELAY
On YJ models, the TCC relay is located in the en-
gine compartment. It is attached to the cowl panel
with one bolt (Fig. 20). On XJ models, the TCC relay
is located in the power distribution center (PDC)
(Fig. 21). For location of this relay within the PDC,
refer to label on PDC cover.
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
The vehicle speed sensor (Fig. 22) is located on the
extension housing of the transmission on 2WD mod-
els. It is located on the transfer case on 4WD models.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor mounting bolt (Fig. 23).
Fig. 18 TPS LocationÐ4.0L Engine
Fig. 19 Throttle Position SensorÐInstallation
Fig. 20 TCC Relay LocationÐYJ Models
Fig. 21 Power Distribution CenterÐXJ Models
Fig. 22 Vehicle Speed Sensor LocationÐTypical
14 - 60 FUEL SYSTEMJ

SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL INFORMATION
The following specifications are published from the
latest information available at the time of publica-
tion.If anything differs between the specifica-
tions found on the Vehicle Emission Control
Information (VECI) label and the following
specifications, use specifications on VECI label.
The VECI label is located in the engine compart-
ment.
FUEL TANK CAPACITIES
FUEL SYSTEM
TORQUE
14 - 62 FUEL SYSTEMJ

scan tool will be necessary to determine which ABS
component has malfunctioned.
ABS Light Illuminates During Brake Stop
A system fault such as loss of speed sensor signal
or solenoid failure, will cause the amber warning
light to illuminate. The most effective procedure here
is to check for obvious damage first. Then check the
electronic components with the DRB II scan tool.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY
The red brake warning light and the ABS light op-
erate independently. If the red light remains on after
startup or illuminates during a brake stop, refer to
the standard brake system diagnosis section. Either
the parking brakes are applied, or a wheel brake
malfunction has occurred.
ECU DIAGNOSIS
The ECU controls all phases of antilock system op-
eration. It also differentiates between normal and an-
tilock mode braking.
The ECU monitors and processes the signals gen-
erated from all of the system sensors at all times.
The ECU program includes a self check routine
that tests each of the system components. The self
check occurs during both phases of the initialization
program. A failure of the self check program will
cause the immediate illumination of the amber warn-
ing light. The light will also illuminate if a solenoid
or other system component fails during the dynamic
phase of initialization.
If a system malfunction should occur, do not imme-
diately replace the ECU. A blown system fuse, bad
chassis ground, or loss of feed voltage will each cause
a system malfunction similar to an ECU failure.
Never replace the ECU unless diagnosis with the
DRB II scan tool indicates this is necessary.
HCU DIAGNOSIS
The HCU pump and motor and solenoid valve body
are serviced only as an assembly. The HCU assembly
should not be replaced unless a fault has actually
been confirmed. Verify fault conditions with the DRB
II scan tool before proceeding with repair.
ABS SYSTEM WIRING AND ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS
Location of the ABS fuse (in the fuse panel) is
shown in Figure 1. The engine compartment harness
routing for the ABS components is shown in Figure 2.
ABS FAULT DIAGNOSIS
The fault diagnosis chart provides additional infor-
mation on potential ABS system faults. Use the
chart as a guide when diagnosing a system problem.
Fig. 1 ABS Fuse Location
5 - 4 BRAKESJ

Fig. 2 ABS Engine Compartment Harness Routing (XJ)
JBRAKES 5 - 5

(2) If red warning light is illuminated, or if neither
warning light is illuminated, make several stops and
note pedal action and brake response.
(3) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
problem is either in vacuum booster or master cylin-
der.
(4) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as pull, grab, drag, noise, fade, pedal pul-
sation, etc.
(5) Inspect suspect brake components and refer to
problem diagnosis information for causes of various
brake conditions.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any compo-
nents. The area around a leak point will be wet with
fluid. The components at a dragging brake unit
(wheel, tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the
touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,
especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boosters.
Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in this
group for more information.
DIAGNOSING SERVICE BRAKE PROBLEMS
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²parking brakes applied
²low pedal caused by malfunction in front/rear
brake hydraulic circuit (differential switch valve ac-
tuated)
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light indi-
cates that the valve in the differential pressureswitch has been actuated. If a problem is confirmed,
inspect the hydraulic system and wheel brake compo-
nents.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS component has
malfunctioned. The ABS light operates indepen-
dently of the red warning light. Refer to the antilock
brake section for more detailed diagnosis informa-
tion.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure in this
section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and/or the warn-
ing light illuminates, the problem is in the master
cylinder, wheel cylinders, or calipers.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
decrease as lining wear occurs. It is a result of the
outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder pis-
tons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin drums or substandard brake
lines and hoses will also cause a condition similar to
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, or replace thin drums and suspect
quality brake lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as de-
scribed in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at
one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is
a product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can
be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings,
rotors and drums.
5 - 8 BRAKESJ

Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bushings or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted brake drum or shoes
²rear brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensator
port or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums arethe primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull. Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a par-
tial apply condition and pull if only one caliper is in-
volved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is mag-
nified. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re-
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down
(and is not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB
Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is in-
volved. However, when both rear wheels are affected,
the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be
at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING
THROUGH DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes lightly applied for a mile or
two. However, if the lining is both wet and dirty, dis-
assembly and cleaning will be necessary.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
There are two basic causes of brake fluid contami-
nation. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or
other liquid materials to enter the cylinder reservoirs
JBRAKES 5 - 9

when the cover is off. The second involves adding to,
or filling the cylinder reservoirs with a non-recom-
mended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If
the brakes are applied after contamination, system
flushing will be required. The master cylinder may
also have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston
seals replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reser-
voir compensator/return ports can cause brake drag
by restricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid will usually be discolored, milky, oily looking,
or foamy. In some cases, it may even appear as if the
fluid contains sludge.However, remember that
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally
be cloudy in appearance. These are normal con-
ditions and should not be mistaken for contami-
nation.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign
of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. How-
ever, calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can gen-
erate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION
Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov-
ered with grease and grit during repair.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a
cable tensioner mechanism. This applies to 1991
through 1994 YJ models and 1992 and later XJ
models. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at
the factory, will not need further adjustment un-
der normal circumstances. There are only two
instances when adjustment is required. The first
is when a new tensioner, or cables have been in-
stalled. And the second, is when the tensioner
and cables are disconnected for access to other
brake components.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum wear;
oversize drums; or inoperative shoe adjuster
components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper
brakeshoe adjustment, or mis-assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
5 - 10 BRAKESJ

assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear
²rear brakedrum wear
²brakedrums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify. If oversize drums are suspected, the
diameter of the braking surface will have to be
checked with an accurate drum gauge. Oversize
drums will cause low brake pedal and lack of park-
ing brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installa-
tion will result in unsatisfactory parking brake oper-
ation. Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause
drag, bind and pull along with poor parking brake
operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement
procedures are described in the Parking Brake sec-
tion.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). Over-
haul or replace cylinder.(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, power
booster or vacuum check valve is faulty. Install
known good check valve and repeat steps (2)
through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more
vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist
is not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster (Fig. 1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
Fig. 1 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal (Typical)
Fig. 2 Hand Operated Vacuum Pump (Typical)
JBRAKES 5 - 11