check engine light JEEP CHEROKEE 1995 Service Repair Manual

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
INTRODUCTION
There are two maintenance schedules that show
proper service intervals for Jeep Cherokee and Jeep
Wrangler vehicles. Use the schedule that best de-
scribes the conditions the vehicle is operated under.
When mileage and time is listed, follow the interval
that occurs first.
ScheduleÐAlists all the scheduled maintenance
to be performed under normal operating conditions.
ScheduleÐBis a schedule for vehicles that are
usually operated under one or more of the following
conditions.
²Frequent short trip driving less than 5 miles (8
km).
²Frequent driving in dusty conditions.
²Trailer towing or heavy load hauling.
²Frequent long periods of engine idling.
²Sustained high speed operation.
²Desert operation.
²Frequent starting and stopping.
²Cold climate operation.
²Off road driving.
²Commercial service.
²Snow plow operation.
²More than half of vehicle operation occurs in
heavy city traffic during hot weather (above 90É F).
AT EACH STOP FOR GASOLINE
²Check engine oil level and add as required.
²Check windshield washer solvent and add as re-
quired.
ONCE A MONTH
²Check tire pressure and look for unusual tire wear
or damage.
²Check fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake mas-
ter cylinder, power steering and transmission. Add
fluid as required.
²Check all lights and other electrical items for cor-
rect operation.
²Inspect battery and clean and tighten terminals as
required.
²Check rubber seals on each side of the radiator for
proper fit.
AT EACH OIL CHANGE
²Inspect exhaust system.
²Inspect brake hoses.
²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval shown
on ScheduleÐA: (7,500 Miles) or every other interval
shown on ScheduleÐB: (6,000 Miles).
²Check engine coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
²Lubricate 4x4 steering linkage.
²Lubricate propeller shaft universal joints and slip
spline, if equipped.After completion of off-road (4WD) operation, the
underside of the vehicle should be thoroughly in-
spected. Examine threaded fasteners for looseness.
HARSH SURFACE ENVIRONMENTS
After vehicle operation in a harsh surface environ-
ment, the following components should be inspected
and cleaned as soon as possible:
²Brake drums.
²Brake linings.
²Front wheel bearings (2WD vehicles only).
²Axle coupling joints.
This will prevent wear and/or unpredictable brake
action.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
The schedule emission maintenance listed inbold
typeon the following schedules, must be done at the
mileage specified to assure the continued proper
functioning of the emission control system. These,
and all other maintenance services included in this
manual, should be done to provide the best vehicle
performance and reliability. More frequent mainte-
nance may be needed for vehicles in severe operating
conditions such as dusty areas and very short trip
driving.
SCHEDULEÐA
7,500 MILES (12 000 KM) OR AT 6 MONTHS
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage (4x4).
15,000 MILES (24 000 KM) OR AT 12 MONTHS
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage.
22,500 MILES (36 000 KM) OR AT 18 MONTHS
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage (4x4).
²Inspect brake linings.
30,000 MILES (48 000 KM) OR AT 24 MONTHS
²Replace air cleaner element.
²Replace spark plugs.
²Adjust belt tension on non-automatic tensioning
drive belts.
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage.
²Drain and refill automatic transmission.
²Drain and refill transfer case.
0 - 4 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ

(3) Cover the open end of the transmission exten-
sion housing.
4WD VEHICLESÐXJ
(1) Shift transfer case lever to NEUTRAL.
(2) Place ignition switch in the unlocked position.
4WD VEHICLESÐYJ
CAUTION: Follow these steps to be certain that the
transfer case is fully in N (NEUTRAL) and that the
axle is completely disengaged before flat towing to
prevent damage to internal parts.
(1) Shift transfer case into 2H and check that the
4WD light goes out.
(2) Start engine and drive the vehicle 3 mm (10 ft.)
rearward and then 3 mm (10 ft.) forward to make
sure the axle is disengaged.(3) Shift transmission to Neutral.
(4) Turn off engine with the ignition key in the un-
locked OFF position.
(5) Shift transfer case lever from 2H to N (NEU-
TRAL) position.
(6) Shift manual transmission into gear or auto-
matic transmission into P (PARK).
WARNING: WITH THE TRANSFER CASE IN NEU-
TRAL POSITION, THE VEHICLE COULD ROLL UN-
EXPECTEDLY. THE PARKING BRAKE SHOULD
ALWAYS BE APPLIED BEFORE THE TOW BAR IS
ATTACHED.
(7) Attach vehicle to the tow vehicle with tow bar.
CAUTION: Do not use a bumper mounted clamp-on
tow bar, damage to bumper face bar may occur.
0 - 14 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ

(2) Remove the air cleaner element from the body/
housing.
(3) Hold a shop light on throttle body side of ele-
ment. Inspect air intake side of element. If element
is saturated with oil or light is not visible, replace fil-
ter. If element is saturated with oil, perform crank-
case ventilation system tests.
(4) Wash the air cleaner cover and body/housing
(Fig. 10) with cleaning solvent and wipe dry.
(5) Install the air cleaner element and attach the
cover to the body/housing.
CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
All Jeep 2.5L and 4.0L engines are equipped with a
crankcase ventilation (CCV) system. Refer to Group
25 Emissions, for additional information.
FUEL FILTER
The fuel filter requires service only when a fuel
contamination problem is suspected. For proper diag-
nostic and service procedures refer to Group 14, Fuel
System.
FUEL USAGE STATEMENTÐGAS ENGINES
Jeep vehicles are designed to meet all emission reg-
ulations and provide excellent fuel economy using
high quality unleaded gasoline. Only use unleaded
gasolines having a minimum posted octane of 87.
If a Jeep vehicle develops occasional light spark
knock (ping) at low engine speeds, this is not harm-
ful. However,continued heavy knock at high
speeds can cause damage and should be
checked immediately.
In addition to using unleaded gasoline with the
proper octane rating,those that contain deter-
gents, corrosion and stability additives are rec-
ommended.Using gasolines that have these
additives will help improve fuel economy, reduce
emissions and maintain vehicle performance.
Poor quality gasolinecan cause problems such
as hard starting, stalling and stumble. If these prob-
lems occur, use another brand of gasoline before con-
sidering servicing the vehicle.
GASOLINE/OXYGENATE BLENDS
Some fuel suppliers blend unleaded gasoline with
materials that contain oxygen such as alcohol, MTBE
and ETBE. The type and amount of oxygenate used
in the blend is important. The following are generally
used in gasoline blends:
ETHANOL
Ethanol (Ethyl or Grain Alcohol) properly blended,
is used as a mixture of 10 percent ethanol and 90
percent gasoline.Gasoline with ethanol may be
used in your vehicle.
METHANOL
CAUTION: Do not use gasolines containing metha-
nol. Use of methanol/gasoline blends may result in
starting and driveability problems. In addition, dam-
age may be done to critical fuel system compo-
nents.
Methanol (Methyl or Wood Alcohol) is used in a va-
riety of concentrations blended with unleaded gaso-
Fig. 9 Air Cleaner & Filter ElementÐ2.5L and 4.0L
Engines
Fig. 10 Air Cleaner Body/Housing & Cover
JLUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 19

ENGINE SUPPORTS
The general condition of the engine supports
should be inspected when engine compartment or un-
der vehicle service is performed.
INSPECTION
(1) Test the hardware that attaches the engine cyl-
inder block to the engine support brackets (Figs. 11
and 12) for the specified tightening torque.(2) Inspect the rubber in the engine support cush-
ions for softening and swelling. Slight surface deteri-
oration and wear at the ends will not affect the
functioning of an engine support.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
Inspect and adjust drive belts at the interval de-
scribed in the Lubrication and Maintenance Sched-
ules. Refer to General Information section of this
group. For proper inspection and adjustment proce-
dures, see Group 7, Cooling System.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
The exhaust system should be inspected when un-
der vehicle service is performed or as specified in the
Lubrication and Maintenance Schedules.
INSPECTION
When inspecting an exhaust system, inspect for
cracked or loose joints, stripped screw/bolt threads,
corrosion damage, and worn or broken hangers
(Slight cracking in rubber isolator or hanger is ac-
ceptable). Replace all components that are corroded
or damaged. Do not attempt repair. Also, inspect for
the following obvious conditions and correct as neces-
sary:
²Exhaust system leaks, damage, misalignment.
²Contact with body panels metal or the frame.
²Catalytic converter bulging or excessive heat dam-
age.
CAUTION: A catalytic converter will become con-
taminated if leaded gasoline is burned in the en-
gine. If this occurs, the complete converter must be
replaced.
For proper service procedures see Group 11, Ex-
haust System and Intake Manifold.
AIR-CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR
LUBRICANT AND REFRIGERANT
The lubricant level in the air-conditioner compres-
sor should be checked if there are indications that oil
was lost. Loss of lubricating oil usually accompanies
a loss of refrigerant.
For additional information involving the A/C sys-
tem, refer to Group 24, Heater And Air Conditioning.
Fig. 11 Front Engine SupportÐTypical
Fig. 12 Rear Engine SupportÐTypical
JLUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 21

Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-
joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion gear shaft bore will also cause low speed
knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft
²Missing drive shaft balance weight
²Worn, out-of-balance wheels
²Loose wheel lug nuts
²Worn U-joint
²Loose spring U-bolts
²Loose/broken springs
²Damaged axle shaft bearings
²Loose pinion gear nut
²Excessive pinion yoke run out²Bent axle shaft
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end vi-
bration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined be-
fore starting any repair.
Refer to Group 22ÐTires And Wheels for addi-
tional information involving vibration diagnosis.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts
²Worn U-joints
²Loose spring mounts
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
²Excessive ring gear backlash
²Excessive differential side gear-to-case clearance
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the ve-
hicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate.
Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into
gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is
helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
JFRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLE 2 - 19

This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion gear shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft
²Missing drive shaft balance weight
²Worn, out-of-balance wheels
²Loose wheel lug nuts
²Worn U-joint
²Loose spring U-bolts
²Loose/broken springs
²Damaged axle shaft bearings
²Loose pinion gear nut
²Excessive pinion yoke run out
²Bent axle shaft
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end vi-
bration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined be-
fore starting any repair.
Refer to Group 22, Wheels and Tires for additional
information.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts
²Worn U-joints
²Loose spring mounts
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
²Excessive ring gear backlash
²Excessive side gear\ase clearance
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the ve-
hicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate.
Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into
gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is
helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
REAR AXLE ALIGNMENT
MEASUREMENT
The following procedure can be used to determine
if abnormal rear tire tread wear is the result of a
bent or deformed rear axle shaft.
(1) Raise both rear wheels off the surface with a
frame contact hoist.
(2) Attach a one-inch long piece of masking tape at
the center of each tire tread for use as reference marks.
(3) Rotate the rear wheels until both reference
marks face the front of the vehicle. Measure the dis-
tance between the outside edges of the two pieces of
tape. Record this measurement as the front of tire
(FTR) measurement.
(4) Rotate the rear wheels until both reference
marks face the rear of the vehicle. Measure the dis-
tance between the outside edges of the two pieces of
tape. Record this measurement as the rear of tire
(RTR) measurement.
(5) Subtract the (RTR) measurement from the
(FTR) measurement to obtain the amount of wheel
toe. The acceptable rear wheel toe-in position is 1/16
inch (1.6 mm) to 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) toe-out.
(6) Rotate the rear wheels until the reference
marks are facing downward. Measure the distance
between the outside edges of the two pieces of tape.
Record this measurement as the bottom of tire (BTR)
measurement.
(7) Average the (FTR) and the (RTR) distance mea-
surements. Subtract the (BTR) measurement from
this average distance to obtain the camber. The ac-
ceptable amount of camber is 1/16 inch to 3/32 inch
(1.6 to 2.4 mm).
(FTR + RTR) DIVIDED BY 2 (TWO) MINUS
BTR EQUALS CAMBER
If the (BTR) distance measurement is less
than the average FTR and RTR distance mea-
surement, the camber will be positive(+).If
the (BTR) distance measurement is greater
than the average FTR and RTR distance, the
camber will be negative(-).
If the toe position or camber is not acceptable, a bent
or deformed rear axle shaft is most likely the cause.
LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Under normal traction conditions, engine torque is di-
vided evenly. With low-traction surfaces, engine torque
is transferred to the wheel with the most tire traction.
When diagnosing a limited-slip differential the wheel
with the least traction can continue spinning.
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Check for incorrect or contaminated
lubricant. Replace the gear lubricant if necessary.
²With Trac-LokŸ differentials add a container of
MOPAR Trac-Lok Lubricant.
This will correct the condition in most instances. If
the chatter persists, clutch damage could have oc-
curred.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches.
3 - 10 REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLESJ

LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
Multi-purpose, hypoid gear lubricant should be
used in the 8 1/4 inch axle. The lubricant should
have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifica-
tions. MOPARtHypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to
both of these specifications.
²The factory installed lubricant for the 8 1/4 inch
rear axle is SAE 80W 90 gear lubricant.
²The factory installed lubricant quantity is 6762
fluid oz.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
additional information.
CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Position support stands un-
der the frame rails slightly in front the springs.
(2) Remove the rear wheels.
(3) Mark the drive shaft yoke and axle pinion yoke
for alignment reference. Disconnect the drive shaft
from the axle.
(4) Disconnect the axle vent hose.
(5) Disconnect the parking brake cables at the
equalizer or backing plate.
(6) Disconnect the shock absorbers from the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.Do not disconnect the wheel cylinder tub-
ing fittings.
(8) If equipped, disconnect ABS wiring connections
at the axle.
(9) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential.
(10) Remove the spring U-bolts from the plate
brackets.
(11) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.(1) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the axle and align the spring center bolts
with the locating holes in the axle pads and plate
brackets.
(3) Install the spring U-bolts through the plate
brackets and tighten to 70 Nzm (52 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install ABS wiring connections (if equipped) at
the axle.
(5) Connect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.
(6) Install the shock absorbers to the axle brackets
and tighten to 62 Nzm (46 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Connect the parking brake cables at the equal-
izer or backing plate.
(8) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(9) Align the reference marks and connect the
drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tighten the U-joint
clamp bolts to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Check differential lubricant and add if neces-
sary.
(11) Install the wheel and tire.
(12) Bleed the brakes.
(13) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 2). Allow the sealant to
cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes after
applying the sealant. If not installed the sealant
must be removed and another bead applied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear
Lubricant 13 mm (1/2 in.) below the fill plug hole.
With Trac-Lok differentials, add a container of Mopar
Hypoid Gear Lubricant Additive.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 31

hand lever. Also note if vehicle was being operated
with parking brake partially applied (this will cause
red light to remain on).
(7) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for be-
ing loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until
condition is corrected.
(8) If components inspected look OK, road test ve-
hicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If amber warning light is on, problem is with
antilock system component. Refer to antilock diagno-
sis section.
(2) If red warning light is not on, proceed to step
(4).
(3) If red warning light is on, proceed as follows:
(a) See if parking brakes are applied. If brakes
are applied, release them and proceed to step (4).
(b) Note if brake pedal is abnormally low. If
pedal is definitely low and red light is still on,
check front/rear hydraulic circuits for leak.Do not
road test. Inspect and repair as needed.
(4) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
do not road test as problem is in master cylinder, or
HCU on ABS models. If pedal holds firm, proceed to
next step.
(5) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-35 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as hard pedal, pull, grab, drag, noise, fade,
etc.
(6) Return to shop and inspect brake components.
Refer to inspection and diagnosis information.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any components.
The area around a leak point will be wet with fluid.
The components at a dragging brake unit (wheel,
tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boost-
ers. Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in
this group for more information.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²when parking brakes are applied
²low pedal caused by leak in front/rear brake hy-
draulic circuit
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light plus
low pedal indicates the pressure differential switch
and valve have been actuated due to a system leak.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS malfunction has
occurred. The ABS light operates independently of
the red warning light.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure at the
end of this section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and the red warn-
ing light is on, the likely cause is a leak in the hy-
draulic system.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
drop somewhat as lining wear occurs. It is a result of
the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder
pistons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
Air in the system is the usual cause of a spongy
pedal. Brake drums machined way beyond allowable
limits (too thin), or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a condition similar to a spongy
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 5

pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the sys-
tem, or replace thin drums and suspect quality brake
lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lin-
ing that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as described
in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a
product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can be
minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, ro-
tors and drums. A drag condition also worsens as
temperature of the brake parts increases.
Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bolts or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted rotor, brake drum, or shoes
²brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensatorport or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The condition will worsen as brake temperature in-
creases.
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION (NON-ABS BRAKES ONLY)
Pedal pulsation is caused by parts that are loose,
or beyond tolerance limits. This type of pulsation is
constant and will occur every time the brakes are ap-
plied.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation.
On vehicles with ABS brakes, remember that pedal
pulsation is normal during antilock mode brake
stops. If pulsation occurs during light to moderate
brake stops, a standard brake part is either loose, or
worn beyond tolerance.
BRAKE PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension com-
ponent are further causes of pull. A damaged front
tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a partial ap-
ply condition and pull if only one caliper is involved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so re-
duced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is magni-
5 - 6 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise
or ply separation can cause vibration and pull. The
pull will be magnified when braking.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE MALFUNCTIONS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a ca-
ble tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner,
once adjusted at the factory, will not need further
attention under normal circumstances. There are
only two instances when adjustment is required.
The first is when a new tensioner, or cables have
been installed. And the second, is when the ten-
sioner and cables are disconnected for access to
other brake components.
Parking Brake Switch And Warning Light Illumination
The parking brake switch on the lever, or foot
pedal, is in circuit with the red warning light. The
switch will illuminate the red light only when the
parking brakes are applied. If the light remains on
after parking brake release, the switch or wires are
faulty, or cable tensioner adjustment is incorrect.
If the red light comes on while the vehicle is in mo-
tion and brake pedal height decreases, a fault has oc-
curred in the front or rear brake hydraulic system.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum
wear; oversize drums; or inoperative shoe ad-
juster components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes de-
scribed as a loose lever or too loose condition), is the re-
sult of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper brakeshoe
adjustment, or incorrectly assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold, will
most probably be due to a wheel brake component.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear or adjuster problem
²rear brake drum wear
²brake drums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify without inspection. If oversize drums
are suspected, diameter of the braking surface will
have to be checked with an accurate drum gauge.
Oversize drums will cause low brake pedal and lack
of parking brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installation
will result in unsatisfactory parking brake operation.
Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause drag, bind
and pull along with poor parking brake operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement pro-
cedures are described in the Parking Brake section.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty due to internal leakage.
Overhaul or replace cylinder.
(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, or hard pedal
is noted, power booster or vacuum check valve is
faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat
steps (2) through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
5 - 8 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ