boot JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual

c

TUNE-UP
meter during this
test
Connect the red lead
tc*
dis­

tributor
primary
lead at the coil as shown in Fig.
C-21.
Connect black lead to the ground.
Turn

ignition switch on; with
engine
stopped, observe
dwell
meter. If the meter reads zero,
crank
the

engine
a fraction of a revolution to
close
the

breaker
points.

Distributor
resistance is normal, if dwell meter
pointer is within range of
black
bar. Distributor resistance is high, if
dwell
meter pointer is not

within
the black bar.
Remove test lead from
distri­
butor terminal of coil and
connect
to
each
of the
following points to determine
where
the excessive resistance is:

Distributor
primary
terminal

Distributor
primary
terminal in the distributor

Breaker
point bracket
Ground
side of points

Distributor
housing

Where
a noticeable change occurs in the meter
reading
in
these
steps, make the necessary correc­
tion and repeat the
test.

C-l 7. Distributor
Point
Dwell

Using
a dwell tester, connect red
lead
to the
distri­

butor terminal at coil. Connect black lead to
ground.
Set selector switch to the number of
cylin­

ders in the
engine
being tested. Operate
engine
speed at specified rpm. and
note
readings. Cam

dwell
angle must be 30° for the Dauntless V-6
Delco equipped engine, 29° ±: 3° Prestolite equipped
engine
and 42° for the
Hurricane
F4 engine. If the dwell reading is not to specifications,
trouble could be improper point spacing, point

rubbing,
defective block or breaker arm, or mis­
aligned and worn distributor cam.
Adjust
dwell
as shown in Fig. C-14 for the Delco equipped
Dauntless V-6 engine. For cam dwell adjustment
of the Prestolite equipped V6 and
Hurricane
F4 engine, refer to Par. C-10,
step
a.

Dwell
variation is determined by noting any
dwell
change as the
engine
is operated at different
speeds.

Excessive
variation indicates a change in point opening that can result from shaft or bushing wear,

or
from the distributor plate shifting because of

wear
or
looseness.

Measure
dwell variation at idle speed, using same

test
hookup for checking dwell. Increase speed to 1750 rpm.;
note
dwell reading.
Then
slowly reduce
speed to idle while observing dwell meter. Dwell

variation
should not exceed 3°. If dwell variation
exceeds
3°
between
idle speed and 1750 rpm.,
probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings, or

breaker
plate is indicated. Distributor should then be checked more thoroughly.

C-l8. Check Ignition Wires
and
Connections

Examine
and clean the insulation on all ignition

wires
and check all connections. Wires should be
firm,
flexible, and free from roughness and minute
cracks.
Bend wires to check for brittle,
cracked,
or

loose
insulation. Since defective insulation
will
per­

mit
crossfiring or missing of the engine, defective

wires
should be replaced.

C-l9. Test Ignition
Cables

To
remove cables from
spark
plugs, use
Spark
Plug
Cable
Remover
Tool
W-274.
Twist
the
boot

slightly to break the seal and, grasping the rubber
protector
boot,
lift straight up with a steady even

pull.
Do not grasp the cable and
jerk
the cable off; this
will
damage the cables. Do not use a probe
on
these
wires; puncturing them may cause a
separation in the conductor. To remove ignition cables from the distributor cap or coil tower,
loosen

the nipple first, then grasp the upper part of the nipple and the cable and gently
pull
straight up.

Test
the cable with an ohmmeter. Resistance value

per
foot
is
3000-7000
ohms. The ignition cables
can
be checked for
circuit
continuity by removing
the cable from the
spark
plug and holding the cable
end Vi" [6,35 mm.] from the engine. A strong

spark
indicates
good
conductor continuity.

When
connecting the cable to the
spark
plug, be
certain
a
good
connection is made and that the
protector
boot
fits tight on the
spark
plug. A
partially
seated cable creates an additional gap in
the
circuit
and the resulting
spark
jump
will
cause

terminal
corrosion and cable damage.

C-20. Coil

When
an ignition coil is suspected of being defec­ tive, it should be checked on the car. A coil may

break
down after it has reached operating tempera­
ture.
It is important that the coil be at operating
temperature when
tests
are made.

Note:
The ignition coil and ballast resistor for the

V-6
engine
must be of the same manufacturer.
Ballast
resistors and ignition coils of one manufac­

turer
are interchangeable with both units of the
other.
C-21.
Service Air
Cleaner

Refer
to Par.
B-2 2
for the correct service of the

air
cleaner.

C-22.
Check Fuel Lines and
Screens

Check
all fuel line connections to guard against
leakage.
Check
fuel pump filter F4
engine
and
fuel
line filter V-6 engine. Replace fuel filter if
necessary.

C-23. Check Fuel Pump a.
Fuel
pump pressure is important, for low pres­

sure
will
seriously affect
engine
operation and high

pressure
will
cause excessive fuel consumption and
possibly flood the carburetor. Should there be any doubt of normal operation, check the pressure with
a
gauge
as shown in Fig.
C-2 2.
The minimum and

maximum
allowable pressures are 2% to 3% lbs. [0,176 a
0,264
kg-cm2], for the
Hurricane
F4 en­
gine.
Fuel
pump pressure at carburetor (inlet) on
the Dauntless V6-225
engine
should be 3% lbs.
[0,264
kg-cm2] minimum at specified
R.P.M.
idle

with
the vapor
return
hose
squeezed off.
With
the

vapor
return
hose
open pump pressure should be
2
V2
lbs. [0,176 kg-cm2] minimum.

b.
Test for volume, as a pump may build up suffi­
cient pressure but
fail
to produce sufficient volume.
Turn
down the carburetor fuel line fitting on the
pump and with the tank line connected, pump out
30

FUEL
SYSTEM

14417

FIG.
E-35—ACCELERATOR LINKAGE—V-6 ENGINE

1— Lever
Assembly

2—
Choke
Rod
3—
-Accelerator
Rod (Upper) 4—
Choke
Control Cable
E-72.
Fuel
Tank

The
fuel tank on early model 'Jeep* Universal vehicles has a capacity of 10}4 gals. [38,75 ltr.] and
is mounted under the driver's seat. The tank is
secured to the front floor panel by a hold down

strap
and two bolts.
The
fuel tank on all late model 'Jeep* vehicles has a
capacity of 16 gal. [60,56 ltr.] and is mounted to
three frame
rail
brackets at the
rear
and center of
the frame. The tank is secured to the brackets by
three
bolts
and six rubber shock insulators. A fuel

tank
skid plate is attached to the
rear
frame cross- member to protect the
bottom
of the tank from damage.
E-73.
Fuel
Tank
Removal

When
removing the fuel tank on early model vehicles, first drain the tank of
all
fuel. Remove the

driver's
seat, then remove the tank hold down

straps.
Disconnect fuel line(s) and sending unit 5—
Accelerator
Mounting Bracket
6—
-Accelerator
Boot
7—
Accelerator
Rod
(Lower)

8—
Accelerator
Treadle
wire
from the tank. Remove the filler neck rubber
grommet and remove the tank assembly from the vehicle.

When
removing the fuel tank, on late model vehicles first
drain
the tank of
all
fuel, then remove
the fuel tank skid plate. Loosen the filler neck and vent tube
hose
clamp and disconnect
hoses
from fuel tank. Remove the three mounting
bolts
and six
washers and rubber insulators that secure the tank to the frame brackets. Loosen frame brackets to
give
clearance for tank removal.
Lower
tank
slightly allowing space for disconnecting fuel and vent lines and sending unit wire from tank.
Lower

tank
and remove from underside of vehicle.
E-74.
Fuel Tank Installation

Note:
On vehicles equipped with the Dauntless

V-6
engine
two luel lines are connected to the fuel

tank;
a fuel out line and a fuel return line. It is im- 132

ELECTRICALJ
SYSTEM

d.
Inspect for
excessive
wear
between
centrifugal

weights
and advance cam and pivot pins.
Turn
weight
base plate in a clockwise direction until
weights
are fully extended. Release and allow
springs to return
weights
to
retard
position. Repeat several times. Springs should return
weights
to
stop
without sticking and there should be no
excessive
free
movement
in the
retard
position. Inspect
springs for distortion and fatigue.
e. Inspect cam
lobes
for scoring or
excessive
wear.
Check
weight
base plate for binding or
excessive

looseness
on distributor shaft.

f.
Check
breaker plate for
excessive
looseness
on
outside
diameter of upper distributor shaft bushing.
Check
breaker plate ground lead for poor
spot
we
Id

at plate end and for
loose
or frayed terminal con­
nections.
g.
Check
for
excessive
wear
between
distributor
shaft and bushings in housing. Inspect shaft for distortion. Inspect gear for scoring of
teeth
or

excessive
wear.

h.
Inspect rod end of vacuum advance mechanism
for
excessive
wear. Push rod
into
unit as far as
possible, hold finger tightly over nipple, then re­
lease
rod. After about 15 seconds, remove finger
from nipple, and
notice
if air is drawn
into
unit.
If
not, diaphragm is leaking and unit must be
replaced.

H-29.
Distributor Reassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-l5.

a.
Install
distributor
primary
lead and rubber grommet in distributor housing. Mount vacuum
advance unit on housing with two
slotted
attaching
screws; insert ground lead terminal of breaker plate under outer mounting screw.
b.
Install
felt
washer over upper shaft bushing of
distributor housing and apply a few drops of light

oil.
Secure breaker plate to upper bushing with re­ tainer. See Fig. H-17.
12767

FIG.
H-17—INSTALLING
BREAKER
PLATE
ON
DISTRIBUTOR
HOUSING
(DELCO)

1—
Breaker
Plate
2—
Retainer

3—
Retainer
Groove
4—
Lubricant
Reservoir c.
Install
distributor cam and
weight
base plate
on distributor shaft.

d.
Insert distributor shaft
into
distributor housing.
Install
centrifugal advance
weights
and springs on

cam
and
weight
base plate. e. Fasten driven gear to shaft with pin. Be care­
ful
not to damage gear.

f.
Secure condenser and bracket to breaker plate
with
slotted
screw.
g.
Install
breaker point assembly over
boss
on
breaker
plate; secure with two
slotted
screws and
lock washers. Apply one drop of light oil to breaker

arm
pivot. Connect condenser and coil
primary

leads to breaker point assembly.

h.
Apply a small amount of high temperature cam

and
ball
bearing lubricant to a clean cloth; hold cloth against distributor cam while turning
distri­
butor shaft.

Caution:
Do not apply
excessive
grease. Petro­
leum jelly is not suitable as a distributor cam
lubri­
cant.

i.
Make preliminary adjustment of breaker point
gap, as described in Par. C-10.

].
Secure rotor to centrifugal timing advance mech­
anism with two screws, lock washers, and flat
washers.

Note:
The square and round
lugs
on the rotor must
be positioned in the corresponding
holes
in the

weight
base plate.
k. If a reliable distributor tester is available, check
the distributor to make certain that the centrifugal

and
vacuum advance mechanisms are operating
according to specifications.

Note:
Mount distributor in tester with all end play
of the distributor shaft in upward position; this

will
eliminate any possible drag
between
the centri­ fugal advance cam and
weight
base plate.

I.
Install
new
O-ring
seal on distributor housing.

H-30.
Distributor
Installation
and
Timing

a.
Insert distributor shaft
into
timing gear cover
of
engine
so that rotor is pointing to
mark
made on distributor base (Fig. H-14), with vacuum advance
unit pointing in exact, original direction (Fig.

H-18).

b.
Install
distributor clamp and
bolt
with lock
washer, leaving
bolt
just
loose
enough
to permit
movement
of the distributor with heavy hand
pressure.

C.
Connect
primary
wire to distributor side of coil.
Install
distributor cap on distributor housing. Press

screwdriver
into
upper
slotted
ends
of two cap
retainers.
Turn
retainers clockwise to secure cap to distributor.

d.
If
spark
cables were disconnected from
distri­

butor cap, connect them. Wires must be pushed

all
the way down
into
the distributor cap terminals
and
onto
the
spark
plugs. Nipples must be pushed
firmly
over the terminals;
boots
must be pushed

firmly
over the
spark
plugs. 186

BRAKES

12519

FIG.
P-13—DOUBLE
SAFETY MASTER CYLINDER
1— Boot
2— Snap Ming 3"*—Piston Assembly
4—
Backing
Ring 5—
Master
Cylinder Cup 6—
Master
Cylinder Cup
7— Piston
8—
Master
Cylinder Cup 9—
Cup
Protector
10—Spring 11—
Cylinder
Housing
12—
Cover
Gasket
13—
Cover

14—
Washer
Gasket 15—
Washer
16—
Cover
Bolt
17—
Check
Valve Spring 18—
Check
Valve
19—
Tube
Seat
20— Piston Stop
REASSEMBLY

a.
Prior
to reassembly of the master cylinder, dip

all
components
in clean brake fluid and place on
clean paper or in a clean pan.

b.
Install the primary cup washer, primary cup,
cup protector, and return spring on the secondary piston.
c. Install the piston cups in the double
groove
end
of the secondary piston, so the flat j of the cups face each other (lip of cups away from each other).
Install
the cup expander in the lip
groove
of the
end cup.

cL
Coat the cylinder bore and piston assemblies with clean brake fluid
before
installing any parts

in
the cylinder.
e. Install the secondary piston assembly first and then the primary piston which is supplied in the
repair
kit.

f.
Install the push rod assembly, which includes
the push rod,
boot,
and rod retainer, and secure
with the snap ring. Install the primary piston
stop.

g. Place new rubber check valves over the check valve springs and install in the
outlet
holes, spring
first.

Note:
When replacing a
complete
master cylinder
with a service unit, the original push rod must be used. The push rod retainer and snap ring retainer 12617

FIG.
P-14—REMOVING TUBE SEATS 1
—Screwdriver

2— No. 6-32 Self-Tapping Screw

3—
Tube
Seat must be removed and discarded. As the new unit
has the retainers installed it is only necessary to

install
the push rod until a "snap" is heard and the push rod is retained. 332

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P h.
Install
the tube seats, flat side toward the check

valve,
and press in with tube nuts or the master

cylinder
brake pipe tube nuts.

BLEEDING
a.
Before the master cylinder is installed on the
car,
the unit must be bled.

b.
Support the cylinder assembly in a vise and

fill
both fluid reservoirs with approved brake fluid,

e.
Loosely install a plug in each
outlet
of the

cylinder.
Depress the push rod several times until

air
bubbles cease to appear in the brake fluid.

d.
Tighten the plugs and attempt to depress the piston. The piston travel should be restricted after
all
air is expelled.
e.
Install
the master cylinder on the car and bleed
the hydraulic lines at the wheel cylinder. Refer to
Par.
P-7.

P-21.
Wheel
Cylinder
Reconditioning
•
Refer to Fig. P-15.
Note:
Make sure a replacement brake cylinder
has the same part number as the original cylinder.

FIG.
P-15—WHEEL
BRAKE CYLINDER
1— Boot

2—
Piston

3—
Cylinder
Cup
4—
Cup
Spring
5—
Cylinder

6—
Bleeder
Screw
a.
To remove a wheel cylinder,
jack
up the vehicle

and
remove the wheel, hub, and
drum.
Disconnect
the brake line at the fitting on the brake backing
plate. Remove the brake
shoe
return spring which

will
allow the brake
shoes
at the toe to
fall
clear of the brake cylinder. Remove two screws holding
the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.
b.
Remove the rubber dust covers on ends of

cylinder.
Remove the pistons and piston cups and
the spring.

c.
Wash the parts in clean alcohol.

d.
Examine the cylinder bore for roughness or
scoring.
Check
fit of pistons to cylinder bore.
e. When reassembling the cylinder, dip springs, pistons and piston cups in brake fluid.
Install

spring
in center of the wheel cylinder.
Install

piston cups with the cupped surface towards the

spring
so that the flat surface
will
be against
the piston.
Install
pistons and dust covers.
f.
Install
wheel cylinder to the backing plate and connect brake line and install brake
shoe
return

spring.

g. Replace wheel, hub, and
drum.

h.
Bleed the brake lines (Par. P-7).

P-22. TROUBLE
SHOOTING

P-23.
Squeaky
Brakes

In
most cases, squeaks are entirely eliminated by

correct
adjustment of the brakes. Squeaks may be
caused however, by glazed linings, lining wore thin
to the point of
exposed
rivets or by vibration. A

drum
will
not vibrate when the brake is securing

uniform
contact over the entire lining surface, ex­
cept when due to improper conditions such as the
linings becoming glazed.
Glazed
surface of the

brake
linings may be removed by a stiff
wire
brush.
Occasionally
squeaks are caused by roughened
sur­

face of the
drum,
which can usually be remedied
by rubbing down with emery cloth and by wiping
the brakings surface clean. In extreme cases it may
be necessary to reface the drum in a lathe. Should
this be done, do not remove a metal thickness greater than .030" [0,762 mm.] - .060" [1,52 mm.]

overall
diameter.

P-24. Rattles
in
Brakes

See that the tension of the springs in the brakes

and
attached to the control system are sufficient to

return
brakes and brake mechanism to their normal
position.
Return
springs are so placed that they
keep all slack out of the control system by tension on all joints.

Brakes
will
not rattle inside the
drum
if the springs
holding the
shoes
are kept at the proper tension. 333