brakes JEEP DJ 1953 Owner's Manual

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
lengthening of the brake master cylinder eye bolt.

This
is
done
so the primary cup
will
clear the by­
pass port when the piston is in the off position,
otherwise the compensating action of the master

cylinder
for expansion and contraction of the fluid
in
the system, due to temperature changes,
will

be destroyed and cause the brakes to drag.

Note:
Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may
develop
side

movement
of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One
way to
compensate
for this wear is to install a pedal

slack
adjuster kit,
Part
No.
921936.
FIG.
P-6—HAND
BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT

P-10.
Hand Brake

On
Model DJ-5 and DJ-6 vehicles the rear brake

shoes
are operated through cables and conduits to
form the hand or parking brake. A brake cable
equalizer and adjusting rod, Fig. P-6, is located directly back of the frame center cross member.

P-11.
Parking Brake Adjustment

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6.

The
foot
brakes must be satisfactorily adjusted be­
fore attempting adjustment of the hand brake.

To
adjust the hand brake raise both rear
wheels

free of the floor.
Pull
up three
notches
on the hand

brake
lever and tighten the adjustment until the

rear
brakes drag slightly. Release the hand brake
lever and check the rear
wheels
for drag. The

wheels
must turn freely with the lever released.

P-12.
Transmission Brake Adjustment
The
transmission brake is located on the propeller
shaft at the rear of the transfer case, see Fig. P-4.
The
brake is operated by a cable connection from
the brake handle mounted on the instrument panel.

To
adjust the transmission brake, the following

sequence
should be followed:
Make
sure that the brake handle on the instrument
panel is fully released. Give due attention to the
cable and operating linkage to see that
they
do
not bind. If necessary free up the cable and
lubri­
cate it. Rotate the brake drum until one pair of the
three
sets
of
holes
are over the
shoe
adjusting screw

wheels
in the brake. Use the
edge
of the
holes
in
the brake drum as a fulcrum for suitable adjusting

tool
or a screwdriver, rotate each notched adjusting
screw by moving the handle of the
tool
away from
the center of the drive shaft until the
shoes
are
snug in the drum.
Back
off seven
notches
on the
adjusting screw
wheels
to secure proper running clearance
between
the
shoes
and the drum. Refer
to Fig. P-8.

P-13.
Relining Transmission Brake
Note:
The condition of the brake lining on the
transmission brake can be visually checked through
the adjusting
holes
in the brake drum.
FIG.
P-7—REMOVING
TRANSMISSION

BRAKE
DRUM

1— Tool W-172
2—
Adapter

3—
Brake
Drum
a.
To reline the brake
shoes
and make a major ad­
justment, first remove the four universal joint at­ taching nuts and lower the propeller shaft. Remove
the retracting spring clevis pin and the spring clip.
Remove the hug lock nut, the nut and washer from
the transfer case output shaft. Both the universal
joint companion
flange
and the brake drum may be readily removed by using puller Tool No. W-172

which
is illustrated in Fig. P-7. Remove the two

brake
shoe
retracting springs and the
shoes.

b. Clean all parts with a suitable cleaning solution

and
examine them for damage or wear.

Brake
shoes
may be distorted by improper lining
installation and the lining should be ground true
after installation on the
shoes.
For this reason it
is recommended that new or replacement
shoe
and
lining assemblies be installed.
c. To reassemble, first turn both adjusting screw

wheels
away from the center to "all off" position.
Place a light film of grease on the brake actuating

cam
and install the
shoes.
Install the black
shoe
re­

turn
spring next to the cam and the yellow spring next to the notch adjusting wheel screw. Place the
brake
drum and universal joint
flange
in position

and
install the transfer case output shaft washer,
nut and hug lock nut. 327

p

BRAKES

PIG.
P-8—TRANSMISSION
BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT
1—
Bail
Nut

2— s,6"
12,38 mm.I
Clearance

3—
Adjusting
Screw
d.
Rotate the
drum
until
one pair of holes in the

drum
are opposite the two adjusting screw wheels

in
the brakes. Use the
edge
of the holes as a

fulcrum
and
with
a suitable
tool
or screwdriver for

adjusting,
rotate the adjusting screw wheels,
mov­
ing
the handle of the
tool
away
from
the
drum
until

the
shoes
are snug in the
drum.

e.
Examine the brake operating cable to be
sure
that
it is not
worn
or damaged. Free it up thorough­

ly
and lubricate
it.
Make
sure
the operating handle

on
the instrument panel is
fully
released.
Adjust
the clevis on the brake end of the operating cable

until
the clevis pin
will
just go through the hole

in
the clevis and brake operating lever
without

slack
in the cable.
Tighten
the clevis
lock
nut.

f.
After
the cable is connected back off seven
notches on each adjusting screw wheel
which
will
give
the proper
running
clearance between the

lining
and the
drum.

g.
Reconnect the propeller shaft.
Install
retracting
spring
clip,
clevis pin and the cotter pin, also, in­

stall
the retracting spring
link
and spring.
h. The
position
of the brake operating lever, Fig.
P-8, must be correctly set. The
position
of this
lever
is determined by the adjustment of the cam or
brake operating
link,
which
spreads
the two
shoes.
The
operating
link
is adjusted by
means
of the

special
ball
nut to set the operating lever
with

[2,38
mm.] clearance between the closest
point

of
the lever and the brake backing plate.

i.
The
position
of
this
lever should be checked when

making
a major adjustment or when
relining
the
brakes and
if
found
incorrect readjust it to give this
clearance before adjusting the brake cable
clevis.

P-14.
Self-Adjusting
Wheel
Brake
Units
Self-adjusting
brakes are standard equipment on

all
late production
'Jeep'
vehicles.
The
wheel brake units consist of a support plate,

two
brake
shoes,
brake
shoe
return springs, self-

adjusting
operating parts, and a wheel
cylinder.
The
automatic adjuster continuously maintains

correct
operating clearance between the brake
lin­
ings
and the drums by adjusting the brakes
in
small

increments in direct
proportion
to
lining
wear. This
continuous
adjustment prevents gradual increase

in
the brake pedal
travel
as the
linings
wear. The
adjuster, therefore,
adds
the safety feature of
main­
taining
adequate
pedal reserve
during
the service

life
of the
lining.

After
the
lining
wears enough to require adjust­ment, the adjusting cable or
link
will lift
the lever

into
engagement
with
the next
tooth
of the
star

wheel
when the brake is applied. When the brake
is
released, the
shoes
return to the anchor. The
self-adjuster
utilizes
the movement of the brake

shoes
in a brake application to
actuate
the adjuster
lever.

This
action
will
repeat
on
subsequent
brake applica­

tions,
if
necessary,
until
the
shoe
to
lining
clearance
is
reduced to a
point
where the
shoe
movement

is
not enough to
cause
the cable to
lift
the lever

to
the next
tooth.

The
adjusting lever, adjusting screw assembly,

linkage
rods and lever crank parts are
left
hand
or
right
hand parts, NOT interchangeable, and
MUST
be kept
separated.

The
automatic adjuster on the brake system con­

sists
of an adjusting screw assembly, adjusting

lever,
two adjusting
links,
and a lever crank, (Fig.
P-10).

Note:
It is not
necessary
to remove the rear axle
shaft hubs to
perform
minor
brake service.

When
replacement of
oil
seals
is also required, hubs must be removed.

On
vehicles equipped
with
self-adjusting brake
assemblies, self-adjustment of the
front
wheel brakes
takes
place
during
reverse wheel brake ap­

plication
and the rear wheel brake adjustment
takes

place
during
forward
vehicle brake application.
P-15.
Relining
Wheel
Brakes

a.
When
necessary
to reline the brakes, the vehicle
should
be raised so that all
four
wheels are free.

b.
Turn
the brake
shoe
star
adjustment all the

way
in. Refer to Fig. P-12.

c.
Remove the wheels, hubs and drums,
which
will

give
access
to the brake
shoes
(Fig.
P-10, P-11).

d.
Install
Wheel
Cylinder
Clamps C-416 to re­
tain
the wheel
cylinder
pistons in place and prevent leakage of brake
fluid
while
replacing the
shoes.

P-16.
Brake
Shoe
Removal
•
Removing the Front Brake
Shoes.

•
Refer to Fig. P-10.

a.
Using
Tool
C-3785
or equivalent remove the
upper linkage rod and brake
shoe
return springs.
b.
Remove the brake
shoe
retainer, spring and pins.
c. Remove the anchor pin plate.
d.
Remove the
primary
and secondary brake
shoe

assembly
from
the support.

e.
Overlap the anchor
ends
of the
primary
and
secondary brake
shoes
and remove the adjusting
screw, adjuster lever,
lower
return spring, and
linkage
rods. 328

p
BRAKES
c. To assemble the brake unit, place the
shoes
on
the backing plates and secure with the
shoe
hold
down pin and clip. Place the adjusting lever on the
secondary
shoe
web making sure the
slot
in the lever
engages
to full depth with the
slot
in the
shoe

web. The adjuster levers are painted RED for right hand brakes and
BLUE
for
left
hand brakes.

d.
Install the adjusting screw assemblies. The star
wheel must be installed over the adjusting
hole
in the backing plate.

Notes
Interchanging adjusting screw assemblies

will
cause
shoe
to retract rather than expand.
e. Assemble the lower spring that
fastens
to the
two
shoe
webs.
THE LONG HOOK
END should
be secured in the small
hole
in the secondary
shoe

and
should be
UNDER
the
shoe
web. The short hook end should be secured in the small
hole
in the

primary
shoe.
If the spring is installed correctly,
the long hook end
will
not interfere with either the lever or the star wheel
teeth.

f. Install the anchor block with arrow pointing in the forward direction of the drum rotation. Place the
guide
plate over the anchor pin and using Tool
C-3
785 install the
shoe
return springs (secondary

spring
first) with the long hook end flat against the
guide
plate.
g. Install the lever crank in the small
hole
on the secondary
shoe
web, the
left
lever crank on the left,
and
right lever crank on the right. A
"L"
or
"R"
is
located on the
hexagon
side of the crank for identi­
fication.
Make
certain the lever rotates freely on
the
hexagon
head screw.

fi.
Assemble the short wire link with large hook by

first
inserting the "S" shape
offset
end
into
the
lever crank
hole
which is
closest
to the
hexagon

head and then snap the hook end of the link in the top
groove
of the anchor pin.
i.
Insert the long link with "S" shaped end in the

crank
lever.
Lift
the adjuster lever up
enough
to hook the link in the
slot
of the adjusting lever. The
adjusting lever
will
then
engage
the star wheel

teeth
between
M%
[1,59 mm.]
above
or
below
the centerline of adjusting screw assembly,
j.
Lubricate the wheel bearings and install the

brake
drum and adjust the wheel bearing to the proper preload.
k. Adjust the brakes as described in Par. P-19.

INSTALLING
THE
REAR BRAKE SHOES

Refer
to Fig. P-ll.

a.
Inspect the platforms of the backing plates for
nicks
or
burrs.
Apply a thin coat of lubricant to
the backing plates platforms.
b. On vehicles without a transmission brake,
attach the parking brake lever to the back side of
the secondary
shoe.

c. Place the secondary and a primary
shoe
in their relative position on a work bench.

Note:
Primary
brake linings are color coded red

and
green. Secondary brake linings are color coded
white and green.

d.
Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw
and
install it
between
the primary and secondary

shoes
with the star wheel installed over the adjust­ing
hole
in the backing plate. The threaded
ends
of
the star adjusting
wheels
are stamped
"R"
and
"L"
indicating thread rotation.

The
left
rear brake adjusting screw has
left
hand
thread rotation and the right rear brake adjusting screw has right hand thread rotation.
e. Overlap the anchor
ends
of the primary and the secondary brake
shoes
and install the lower

return
spring.

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
f. On vehicles without a transmission brake hold
the brake
shoes
in their relative position and
engage
the parking brake cable
into
the parking

brake
lever.
g. On vehicles without a transmission brake in­
stall
the parking brake strut and spring
between

the parking brake lever and the primary
shoe.

h.
Place the brake
shoes
on the backing plate and

install
the retainer pins, springs and retainers.

i.
Install the anchor pin plate.

j.
Install the lever and
sleeve
on the primary
shoe
then install the secondary return spring, then the
primary
return spring.

Important:
A
"L"
or "R" is located on the hex­

agon
side of the lever crank for identification. The
lever crank marked "R" applies to the primary
shoe
on the
left
rear brake assembly. The lever
crank
marked
"L"
applies to the primary
shoe
on
the right rear brake assembly.
k. Place the upper linkage rod in the
groove
of the
anchor pin and
engage
the hook of the link rod
into

the adjusting lever.

I.
Install the brake drum. Install the wheel and

tire
assembly.
m. Adjust the brakes as described
below.

P-19.
Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment —

a.
Should wheel brake units have
been
disassem­ bled for any reason, an initial adjustment
MUST
be made
before
drum installation.

b.
When the brake parts have
been
installed in
their correct position, initially adjust the adjusting
screw assemblies to a point where approximately Y% [9,53 mm.] of threads are
exposed
between
the

star
wheel and star wheel nut.

Note:
Following the initial adjustment and final
assembly, check brake pedal height to ensure

brake
operation. Then drive the car in reverse and
FIG.
P-12—BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
1—
Star
Wheel
2—
Lever

3—
Screwdriver
4—
Brake
Adjusting Tool
forward,
making 10 to 15 brake applications prior
to road testing.
This
action balances the adjust­
ment of the four brake units and raises the brake
pedal.
c. Adjustment may be made manually by remov­ing the access
slot
cover and using a brake adjust­
ing
tool
or screw driver to rotate the star wheel
until
the wheel is in the locked position. To tighten, rotate the star wheel in the clockwise direction.
Then
back off the star wheel at least 15 to 20

notches
(clicks).

d.
To back off the star wheel on the brake, insert
ice pick or thin blade screw driver in adjusting screw
slot
to hold lever away from adjusting screw.

Back
off on adjusting screw until wheel and drum

turn
freely. Replace adjusting
hole
cover.

Caution:
DO NOT attempt to back off on ad­
justing screw without holding adjuster lever away from screw as adjuster
will
be damaged.
P-20. Master Cylinder Reconditioning —
Dual
System

Refer
to Fig. P-13.

DISASSEMBLY
a.
Remove the filler cap and empty all fluid.
b.
Remove the snap ring, push rod assembly, and
the primary and secondary piston assemblies. Air pressure applied in the piston
stop
hole
will
help
facilitate the removal of the secondary piston as­
sembly.
c. The residual check valves are located under
the front and rear fluid
outlet
tube
seats.

d.
The
tube
seats
must be removed with the
self-

tapping screws supplied in the repair kit to permit removal of the check valves. Screw the self-tapping
screws
into
the
tube
seats
and place two screw

driver
tips under the screw head and force the
screw upward as shown in Fig. P-14.
e. Remove the expander in the rear secondary cup, secondary cups, return spring, cup protector,
pri­

mary
cup, and washer from the secondary piston.
f. The primary piston, with the rubber cups in­ stalled, is supplied in the repair kit.

CLEANING
a.
After disassembly, immersion of all metal parts
in
clean brake fluid or a brake system cleaner is
recommended. Use air
hose
to blow out dirt and cleaning solvent from recesses and internal pas­

sages.
When overhauling a hydraulic brake unit,
use all parts furnished in the repair kit. Discard
all
old rubber parts.

b.
After cleaning, place
all"
hydraulic
system parts
on clean paper or in a clean pan.

INSPECTION
Inspect all other parts for damage or
excessive

wear.
Replace any damaged, worn, or chipped
parts.
Inspect hydraulic cylinder bore for
signs
of
scoring, rust, pitting, or etching. Any of
these
will
require
replacement of the hydraulic cylinder. 331

BRAKES

12519

FIG.
P-13—DOUBLE
SAFETY MASTER CYLINDER
1— Boot
2— Snap Ming 3"*—Piston Assembly
4—
Backing
Ring 5—
Master
Cylinder Cup 6—
Master
Cylinder Cup
7— Piston
8—
Master
Cylinder Cup 9—
Cup
Protector
10—Spring 11—
Cylinder
Housing
12—
Cover
Gasket
13—
Cover

14—
Washer
Gasket 15—
Washer
16—
Cover
Bolt
17—
Check
Valve Spring 18—
Check
Valve
19—
Tube
Seat
20— Piston Stop
REASSEMBLY

a.
Prior
to reassembly of the master cylinder, dip

all
components
in clean brake fluid and place on
clean paper or in a clean pan.

b.
Install the primary cup washer, primary cup,
cup protector, and return spring on the secondary piston.
c. Install the piston cups in the double
groove
end
of the secondary piston, so the flat j of the cups face each other (lip of cups away from each other).
Install
the cup expander in the lip
groove
of the
end cup.

cL
Coat the cylinder bore and piston assemblies with clean brake fluid
before
installing any parts

in
the cylinder.
e. Install the secondary piston assembly first and then the primary piston which is supplied in the
repair
kit.

f.
Install the push rod assembly, which includes
the push rod,
boot,
and rod retainer, and secure
with the snap ring. Install the primary piston
stop.

g. Place new rubber check valves over the check valve springs and install in the
outlet
holes, spring
first.

Note:
When replacing a
complete
master cylinder
with a service unit, the original push rod must be used. The push rod retainer and snap ring retainer 12617

FIG.
P-14—REMOVING TUBE SEATS 1
—Screwdriver

2— No. 6-32 Self-Tapping Screw

3—
Tube
Seat must be removed and discarded. As the new unit
has the retainers installed it is only necessary to

install
the push rod until a "snap" is heard and the push rod is retained. 332

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P h.
Install
the tube seats, flat side toward the check

valve,
and press in with tube nuts or the master

cylinder
brake pipe tube nuts.

BLEEDING
a.
Before the master cylinder is installed on the
car,
the unit must be bled.

b.
Support the cylinder assembly in a vise and

fill
both fluid reservoirs with approved brake fluid,

e.
Loosely install a plug in each
outlet
of the

cylinder.
Depress the push rod several times until

air
bubbles cease to appear in the brake fluid.

d.
Tighten the plugs and attempt to depress the piston. The piston travel should be restricted after
all
air is expelled.
e.
Install
the master cylinder on the car and bleed
the hydraulic lines at the wheel cylinder. Refer to
Par.
P-7.

P-21.
Wheel
Cylinder
Reconditioning
•
Refer to Fig. P-15.
Note:
Make sure a replacement brake cylinder
has the same part number as the original cylinder.

FIG.
P-15—WHEEL
BRAKE CYLINDER
1— Boot

2—
Piston

3—
Cylinder
Cup
4—
Cup
Spring
5—
Cylinder

6—
Bleeder
Screw
a.
To remove a wheel cylinder,
jack
up the vehicle

and
remove the wheel, hub, and
drum.
Disconnect
the brake line at the fitting on the brake backing
plate. Remove the brake
shoe
return spring which

will
allow the brake
shoes
at the toe to
fall
clear of the brake cylinder. Remove two screws holding
the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.
b.
Remove the rubber dust covers on ends of

cylinder.
Remove the pistons and piston cups and
the spring.

c.
Wash the parts in clean alcohol.

d.
Examine the cylinder bore for roughness or
scoring.
Check
fit of pistons to cylinder bore.
e. When reassembling the cylinder, dip springs, pistons and piston cups in brake fluid.
Install

spring
in center of the wheel cylinder.
Install

piston cups with the cupped surface towards the

spring
so that the flat surface
will
be against
the piston.
Install
pistons and dust covers.
f.
Install
wheel cylinder to the backing plate and connect brake line and install brake
shoe
return

spring.

g. Replace wheel, hub, and
drum.

h.
Bleed the brake lines (Par. P-7).

P-22. TROUBLE
SHOOTING

P-23.
Squeaky
Brakes

In
most cases, squeaks are entirely eliminated by

correct
adjustment of the brakes. Squeaks may be
caused however, by glazed linings, lining wore thin
to the point of
exposed
rivets or by vibration. A

drum
will
not vibrate when the brake is securing

uniform
contact over the entire lining surface, ex­
cept when due to improper conditions such as the
linings becoming glazed.
Glazed
surface of the

brake
linings may be removed by a stiff
wire
brush.
Occasionally
squeaks are caused by roughened
sur­

face of the
drum,
which can usually be remedied
by rubbing down with emery cloth and by wiping
the brakings surface clean. In extreme cases it may
be necessary to reface the drum in a lathe. Should
this be done, do not remove a metal thickness greater than .030" [0,762 mm.] - .060" [1,52 mm.]

overall
diameter.

P-24. Rattles
in
Brakes

See that the tension of the springs in the brakes

and
attached to the control system are sufficient to

return
brakes and brake mechanism to their normal
position.
Return
springs are so placed that they
keep all slack out of the control system by tension on all joints.

Brakes
will
not rattle inside the
drum
if the springs
holding the
shoes
are kept at the proper tension. 333

p

BRAKES
P-25.
SERVICE

SYMPTOMS
Brakes Drag
Brake
Shoes
Improperly Adjusted
Piston Cups Enlarged . . •.
«•
Mineral
Oil or Improper Brake
Fluid
in System. . .

Improper
Pedal Adjustment
Clogged Master Cylinder By-Pass Port...

One
Brake Drags
Brake
Shoe
Adjustment Incorrect
v Brake
Hose
Clogged.
Return
Spring Broken
Wheel Cylinder Piston
01
Cups
Defective.........
Loose or Damaged Wheel Bearings

Brake Grabs
—
Vehicle Pulls
to One
Side
Grease
or Brake
Fluid
on
Lining................
Dirt
Between
Lining
and Drum

Drum
Scored or Rough
Loose Wheel Bearings. .
Axle Spring Clips Loose
Brake
Backing Plate Loose

Brake
Lining
..

Brake
Shoe
Reversed
Tires
Under-Inflated -
Tires
Worn Unequally
Glazed
or Worn
Lining

Restricted Brake
Line

Excessive Pedal Travel
Normal
Lining
Wear

Lining
Worn Out ... .

Leak
in Brake
Line.

Scored Brake Drums
Incorrect
Brake
Lining.

Air
in Hydraulic System

Spongy Brake Pedal
Air
in
Lines.
Brake
Shoe
Adjustment Incorrect
Insufficient Brake
Fluid

Excessive Pedal Pressure
Grease
or Brake
Fluid
in
Lining

Shoes
Improperly Adjusted

Warped
Brake
Shoes
Distorted Brake Drums
Glazed
or Worn
Lining

Restricted Brake
Line
Faulty
Brake Cylinder Insufficient Brake
Fluid.

Squeaky Brakes
Shoes
Warped or Drums Distorted
Lining
Loose.....
Dirt
Imbedded in
Lining

Improper
Adjustment.

Oil
or Grease on
Lining
Glazed
or Worn
Lining.

Drum
Scored
DIAGNOSIS

PROBABLE
REMEDY

Adjust
Flush
all
lines
with Alcohol. Install new cups in wheel and Master Cylinders

Adjust
Master Cylinder Eye Bolt
Clean
Master Cylinder

Adjust
Replace Replace
Replace
Adjust
or Replace
Replace
Lining

Clean
with Wire Brush

Turn
Drum and Replace
Lining

Adjust
Tighten Tighten
Different Kinds on Opposite Wheels

Forward
and
Rear
Shoes
misinstalled
Inflate
Replace or Rotate Replace Linings

Locate
and Repair

Adjust

Replace
Locate
and Repair Replace or Regrind Replace

Fill
Master
Cylinder
— Bleed Lines
Bleed Lines
Adjust

Fill
Master Cylinder
Replace
Lining
Major
Adjustment
Replace
Replace or Regrind Replace Linings * .

Locate
and Repair
Repair
or Replace
Fill
Master Cylinder Replace
Replace
Wire
Brush or Replace

Adjust
Replace Linings Replace Linings

Turn
Drum and Replace Linings 334

Q

WHEELS
FIG.
Q-2—FRONT
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
2-WHEEL-DRIVE

1—
Steering
Knuckle

2—
Brake

3— Hub
Grease
Seal
4—
Inner
Bearing
Cone

5—
Inner
Bearing
Cup
6—
Hub
and
Drum

7—
Outer
Bearing
Cup
8—
Outer
Bearing
Cone
9—
Tongued
Washer

10— Nut
11—
Cotter
Pin

12—
Grease
Cap

13— Nut
14—
Lockwasher
15—
Bolt
j
10703
is ir 10730
FIG.
Q-3—REAR
WHEEL
ATTACHING PARTS —
4-WHEEL-DRIVE
TAPERED
AXLE

1—
Oil
Seal

2—
Cone
and
Rollers

3— Cup
4—
Shims
5—
Bearing
Retainer
6—
Brake
Backing
Plate
7—
Gasket

8—
Grease
Retainer

9—
Grease
Protector

10—Bolt
11— Hub
and
Drum

12—
Shaft
Key

13—
Washer

14—
Nut
15—
Cotter
Pin
Ifi—Hub
Cap

17—Nut

18—
Ixick
Washer

19—Bolt

FIG.
Q-4—REAR
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
2-WHEEL-
DRIVE-TAPERED
AXLE

1—
Oil
Seal

2—
Bearing
Cone

3—
Bearing
Cup
4—
Shim
Set
5—
Retainer
and
Seal

6—
Brake
7—
Nut

8—
Hub
and
Drum

9—
Axle
Shaft Key

10—
Washer

11— Nut
12—
Cotter
Pin
13—
Lockwasher

14—
Bolt

recommended with the exception that
rear
wheels

on vehicles having
Trac-Lok
or
Powr-Lok
axles
should always be removed for balancing.

Q-3. WHEEL
BEARING
SERVICE

Adjustment
of the wheel bearings is
critical
be­ cause it establishes the running clearance of the wheel bearings. Wheel bearing adjustment that is
too
tight
preloads the bearings and causes them
to run hot. Loose wheel bearings permit the drum hub to shift its position on the bearings as thrust loads
vary
with acceleration,
braking,
and cornering.

Loose
bearings also cause
erratic
braking.
To check
the wheel bearings for adjustment, brakes must
be free and in fully released position. 336

Q

WHEELS

FIG.
Q-6—REAR
WHEEL,
FLANGED
AXLE
AND
BEARING
ASSY.

1—
Retainer
Plate

2— Oil
Seal

3—
Unit
Bearing

4—
Retaining
Ring
5—
Axle
Shaft
wheel
will
turn
freely with no drag. If adjustment
is necessary, follow the procedure given in Par. Q-8.

Q-8.
Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment
—
Tapered Axle

The
bearing adjusting shims are placed
between
the brake backing plate and axle flange as shown

in
Fig. Q-7.

With
wheel raised on
jack,
the following procedure
should be used to make the
rear
wheel bearing
adjustment.

a.
Remove the hub cap with hub cap puller, the
cotter pin, axle shaft nut, and washer. Remove the
wheel hub and drum with a wheel puller.

b.
Disconnect hydraulic brake line at wheel

cylinder.

c.
Remove the
bolts
holding the brake dust shield, grease and bearing retainer, and the brake backing
plate.

d.
Remove or install shims to adjust the bearings
to provide .001" to .006" [0,025 a 0,152 mm.]
end float of the axle shaft.

Note:
Before reassembly of the wheel make certain
the backing plate nuts are tight and torqued at 25 to 35 lb-ft [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].
e. Reassemble the wheel, adjust brakes, and check
the bearing adjustment (Par. Q-7).

0-9.
REAR WHEEL MOUNTING
—
TAPERED AXLE

Proper
axle shaft key installation is accomplished by placing the hub and drum on the axle shaft
taper and then inserting the axle shaft key in the
FIG.
Q-7—REAR
WHEEL
AND HUB
BEARING
—

TAPERED
AXLE
SHAFT

1—-Adjusting
Shims
2—Inner
Seal
3—Outer
Seal
keyway.
Never install the key in the keyway before

placing
the hub and drum assembly on the axle
shaft. Be sure that the axle shaft nut is torqued
to a minimum of 150 lb-ft. [20,7 kg-m.].
O-10.
BRAKE
DRUM
SERVICE
On
rear
wheels, the hub fits inside the brake drum
(Fig.
Q-3). On front wheels, the hub is attached
to the outside of the brake drum (Fig. Q-l). The

brake
drums are attached to the wheel hubs by
five serrated bolts. These
bolts
are also used for
mounting the wheels on the hub. To remove a

brake
drum,
press or drive out the serrated
bolts
and
remove the drum from the hub. When placing
the drum on the hub, make sure that the contacting
surfaces are clean and flat.
Line
up the
holes
in
the drum with
those
in the hub and put the drum
over the shoulder on the hub. Insert five new
serrated
bolts
through the drum and hub and drive
the
bolts
into place solidly. Place a round head of the bolt in a vise. Next, place the hub and drum
assembly over it so that the bolt head rests on it.

Then
swage
the bolt into the countersunk section of the hub or drum with a punch. The runout of
the drum face should be within .030" [0,76 mm.]
total indicator reading. If the runout is found to be greater than .030" it
will
be necessary to reset
the
bolts
to correct the condition.
0-11.
TIRE SERVICE
Refer
to Fig. Q-8.

One
of the most important factors of safe vehicle
operation is systematic and correct tire mainte­ nance.
Tires
must sustain the weight of a loaded vehicle, withstand more than ordinary rough serv- 338

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Q
ice, provide maximum safety over all
types
of

terrain,
and furnish the medium on which the
vehicle can be maneuvered with ease. Although
there are other
elements
of tire service, inflation maintenance is the most important and in many
instances the most neglected. The tire pressure should be maintained for safe operation. An under- inflated tire is dangerous as too much flexing can
cause breakage of the casing. Overinflation in time
may
cause a blowout.

Upon
careful inspection of tires, it may be found
that improper wheel alignment, balance, grabbing
brakes,
poor driving habits, fast cornering or other
conditions are the cause of wear. Such conditions
should be corrected.

a.
UNDERINFLATION

Underinflation
distorts the normal contour of the
tire
body and the tire
bulges
or "bellies out" with

an
extreme flexing action.
This
wears the tread at the
edges
more than the center and generates
excessive internal heat, weakening the cords and
resulting
in bruises, broken cords or ply separation.

Underinflation
also leads to rim bruises as in­ sufficient resistance is provided to prevent the tire

from
being jammed against the rim and crushed
or
cut when the tire strikes a
curb,
rock, or rut.

b.
OVERINFLATION

When
a tire is
overinf
lated,
increased tension caused by excessive pressure prevents proper deflection of
the sidewalls.
This
results in wear in the center of the tread and the tire also
loses
its ability to absorb

road
shocks. Under this increased
strain,
cords in the tread area eventually snap under impact, caus­ing a casing break.

c.
MISALIGNMENT
WEAR
Excessive
wheel camber causes the tires to run at an angle to the road when camber is incorrect

it
will
cause excessive wear on one side of the
tire
tread.

Front
wheels should be straight ahead or toe-in slightly. When there is excessive toe-in or
toe-out,

tires
will
revolve with a side motion and scrape
the tread rubber off.
Front
tires
will
show wear on the outside with too great a toe-in condition
and
on the inside with a
toe-out
condition.

d.
BALANCE
Cupping
and bald spotting of tires is associated

with
wear on a vehicle driven mostly at high-way
speeds
without the recommended tire rotation and

with
unbalance conditions.

Q-12.
Tire
Care
Note;
For satisfactory 4-wheel drive operation, a
4-wheel drive vehicle
MUST
be equipped with the same size tires of equal circumference on all
four wheels. The tires must then be inflated to

proper
factory recommended pressures at all times.

Tire
pressure, tire rotation, wheel balance, and wheel alignment are the four vital factors that in­
fluence the
extent
of tire life and the
ease
and safety of vehicle control.
Four
of the most common

tire
troubles are:

a.
Excessive wear around the outer
edges
resulting

from
underinflation.

b.
Excessive wear in the center of the tread re­
sulting from overinflation.

c.
Tire
tread worn on one side indicating wheels
need realigning.
d.
Cuplike
depressions on one side of the tread

indicating
wheels need balancing.

If
the vehicle normally carries a
full
load, two to
four psi. [0,14 a 0,28 kg-m2] can be added to the
recommended air pressures. But, remember that adding air with a light load means a harsher ride,

doesn't
help tires, and wears out shock absorbers. Rotate the tires as shown in Fig. Q-9 for correct
rotation system.

Q-13.
Tire
Removal
and
Installation

To
remove a tire from a drop center rim, first
WEAR
AT SHOULDERS

WEAR
AT CENTER

WEAR
ON ONE
SIDE
FEATHERED
EDGE
BALD
SPOTS

/1TTDN

i

UNDER
INFLATION
OVER
INFLATION
EXCESSIVE
CAMBER

INCORRECT
TOE
WHEEL
UNBALANCED

liF
11

ADJUST
PRESSURE TO
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEN
TIRES ARE
COOL
ADJUST
CAMBER
TO

SPECIFICATIONS
ADJUST
FOR

TOE-IN
DYNAMIC
OR
STATIC

BALANCE
WHEELS

FIG.
Q-8—TIRE
WEAR
PATTERN
339