check oil JEEP DJ 1953 Repair Manual

E

FUEL
SYSTEM
taching screws and valve housing from the fuel
pump body.

c.
Remove the two screws in the valve housing
and
separate the filter cover and air
dome
dia­
phragm.

d.
Remove the cam lever return spring, plug,
cam
lever pin, and cam lever from the pump body.

Tap
the cam lever pin out of body, using a drift
inserted through the small
hole
in the pump body.
e. Remove diaphragm from pump body.
f. Under normal service, the pump may be cleaned without further disassembly.

Note:
The oil seal (at top of spring in diaphragm
assembly) seals the spring side of the fuel
dia­
phragm
from the crankcase. Any deposit, in
excess

of a few drops, of oil on the diaphragm indicates leakage past the oil seal. Be sure the seat for the

seal
in the pump body is clean and smooth.

E-63.
Fuel
Pump Cleaning and Inspection

Caution:
Do not immerse valves or diaphragm
in
cleaning solvent; wipe clean.

Clean
all metal parts of the fuel pump in solvent.
Brush
with a stiff-bristled
brush.
Dry with com­
pressed
air.
Check
all parts to see that they are not
cracked
or broken and that the screw threads are
not damaged.

E-64.
Fuel
Pump Reassembly
•
Refer to Fig. E-32.

a.
Assemble the valve housing and filter cover, using a new air
dome
diaphragm. The opening

in
the air
dome
diaphragm is located over the
intake
valve. The filter cover is positioned cor­
rectly
when the inlet passage in the cover aligns

with
the inlet valve. Tighten the attaching screws
alternately and securely.

b.
Lubricate
diaphragm assembly shaft, around

oil
seal, with
engine
oil. Position diaphragm as­ sembly on valve housing and thread all the attach­ ing screws through diaphragm.
(This
helps avoid
damage to the screw
holes
in diaphragm.)

c.
Place diaphragm assembly and valve housing
in
position on pump body (align marks made
before disassembly).
First
start all screws one

or
two threads; then tighten the screws alternately

and
securely.

d.
Lubricate
forked end of cam lever, pin bore
of body, and corresponding
hole
in lever, and the
pin
itself with
engine
oil.

Note:
Forked
end of lever
goes
around diaphragm
shaft. Be sure
loose
bumper washer on diaphragm shaft is on top of lever and
between
lever and fixed
washer
on shaft.
e.
Install
lever and pin. To install pin, use a drift
and
tap pin into the
hole
in the body until it hits
the
stop
on the
bottom
of the hole;
move
the lever while tapping, to align
hole
in lever with the pin;
then install plug.
Install
lever return spring.
f.
Install
a new filter bowl gasket in filter cover.
Place
bail
assembly in ears on cover and swing
to one side.
Install
spring and new filter element in
bowl and install bowl on pump. Position
bail
as­
sembly under bowl; tighten retainer screw.

Caution:
Do not overtighten screw.

E-65.
Fuel
Pump Installation

a.
Make certain mating surfaces of fuel pump and

engine
cylinder case are clean. Cement a new gasket to mounting flange of fuel pump.

b.
Position fuel pump on cylinder block, so that

cam
lever of pump rests on fuel pump cam of cam­
shaft. Secure pump to block with two cap screws
and
lock washers. Torque
bolts
13 to 17 lb-ft. [1,8
a
2,3 kg-m.].

c.
Connect intake and
outlet
fuel lines to fuel
pump.

E-66.
Fuel
Pump Testing

Whenever
the fuel pump is to be checked for pres­

sure
or volume, follow the procedure outline in

Par.
C-23 of this manual.
Fuel
pump pressure is
important
for low pressure
will
seriously affect en­

gine
operation and high pressure can cause exces­
sive fuel consumption and flooding of the carbure­
tor.
Should there be any doubt of normal opera­
tion, check the procedure as outlined in Par. C-23.
In
addition to proper fuel pressure, volume of the
pump is also important. When testing for proper
pump pressure, be certain to also
test
for volume
as the pump may build up sufficient pressure, but
fail
to produce sufficient volume.

E-67. FUEL
PUMP
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Jeep vehicles equipped with the Dauntless V6-225

engine
have a special fuel pump which has a metering
outlet
for a vapor return system. Any

vapor
which forms is returned to the fuel tank
along with hot fuel through a separate line along­
side the fuel supply line.
This
greatly reduces any
FIG.
E-33—FUEL PUMP—DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE
1
—Fuel
Outlet 2—Vapor
Return
3—Fuel
Inlet

130

E

FUEL
SYSTEM
E-78. SERVICE DIHGNOSIS
Symptoms Probable Remedy

Excessive
Fuel
Consumption:
Tires
improperly inflated Inflate

Brakes
drag Adjust
Engine
operates too cold Check thermostat
Heat control valve inoperative Check thermostatic spring
Leak
in fuel line Check all connections

Carburetor
float level high. See
"Carburetor"
section
Accelerator pump not properly adjusted Adjust

Leaky
fuel pump diaphragm Replace
Loose
engine
mountings causing high carburetor fuel level Tighten Ignition timing slow or spark advance stuck See "Distributor" section

Low
compression. Check valve tappet clearance
Air
cleaner dirty
.
Remove and clean

Engine
Hesitates on Acceleration: Accelerator pump
does
not function perfectly.
...................
.Replace piston and rod or adjust
Carburetor
float level. ... .Adjust

Spark
plugs Replace or clean and adjust

Low
compression Check valves

Distributor
points—dirty or pitted Replace

Weak
condenser or coil Replace

Carburetor
jets restricted Remove and clean

Excessive
engine
heat See "Engine" section

Engine
Stalls—Won't Idle:
Improper
condition of carburetor See
"Carburetor"
section

Low
speed
jet restricted Remove and clean
Dirty
fuel sediment bowl screen Remove and clean

Air
cleaner dirty Remove and clean

Leaky
manifold or gasket Replace

Fuel
pump diaphragm porous. Replace
Loose carburetor. Tighten
flange
nuts

Water
in fuel
Drain
and clean system

Improper
ignition. .See "Distributor" section

Spark
plugs Clean and adjust

Valves
sticking.
Grind
valves 134

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Fl
b. Connect tachometer to
engine.

c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.

d.
Adjust
engine
idle to
speed
desired, using throt­
tle idle
speed
adjusting screw.

e.
Carburetors without Idle
Limiter
Cap turn idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise) until a
loss

of
engine
speed
is indicated; then, slowly turn mix­
ture screw in (clockwise-leaner) until maximum

speed
(RPM) is reached. Continue turning in (clockwise) until
speed
begins
to drop; turn mixture
adjustment back out (counterclockwise-richer) un­

til
maximum
speed
is just regained at a "lean as
possible" mixture adjustment.

Fl-14.
Distributor

Check
the distributor number for proper appli­
cation.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and
point condition and adjust to specifications or re­ place as required. (Specifications listed at the end
of this section)
Check
ignition timing and set at

0°
or
TDC.

Fl-15.
Anti-iackfire
Diverter Valve

The
anti-backfire valve remains closed
except
when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an
open
position.

To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to
close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
Which
connects to the check valve.
Accelerate the
engine
to allow the throttle to
close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily if a
momentary interruption of rushing air is audible.

Fl-16.
Check Valve

The
check valve prevents the reverse flow of ex­
haust
gases
to the pump in the
event
the pump
should, for any reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust pressure ever
exceed
pump pressure.

To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the
distri­

bution manifold.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust leakage at the check valve which is
connected to the distribution manifold.

Fl-17.
Air
Pump

Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be

50-60
pounds on a belt with previous service, meas­

ured
on the
longest
accessible span
between
two pulleys. When installing a new belt, adjust the
tension to
60-80
pounds tension. DO NOT PRY
ON
THE DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING.

To
check the pump for proper operation, remove the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine

running,
air discharge should be
felt
at the pump

outlet
opening. The pump
outlet
air pressure, as determined by the relief valve, is preset and is not
adjustable.

The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pres­
sure relief valve are the only pump
components

recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the
event
the relief valve was
tampered with.

Fl-18.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner

Every
6000
miles
[9,600
km.] clean the inside
sur­

face at the sump and
refill
to indicated oil level with
SAE
40 or 50
engine
oil
above
32 F; SAE 20

below
32 F. Wash filter
element
in kerosene and

drain.
Reassemble the air cleaner.

More
frequent cleaning and replacement is advis­ able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on
unpaved roads. Accumulated dirt restricts air flow,
reducing fuel
economy
and performance.

Fl-19.
REMOVAL
PROCEDURES

The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the Exhaust Emission

Control
System and the required equipment
needed.

Fl-20.
Air
Pump

Loosen
the air pump adjusting strap to facilitate

drive
belt removal. Remove the air pump air dis­
charge hose(s) and air filter attachment. Separate
the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of installation, torque tighten the air pump mount­ing
bolts
to
30-40
lbs-ft. [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.]. Adjust
the belt strand tension to
50-60
pounds on a belt
with previous service and
60-80
pounds on a new
belt.

Fl-21.
Anti-Backfire
Diverter Valve

The
anti-backfire diverter valve removal requires disconnecting the
hoses
and bracket to
engine
at­
taching screws.

Fl-22.
Air
Distribution
Manifold
and
Injection Tubes

In
order to remove the air distribution manifold
without bending the tubing, which could result in
fractures
or leakage, it is necessary to remove the
exhaust manifold as an assembly from the
engine.

After
the exhaust manifold assembly is removed
from
the
engine,
place the manifold in a vise and

loosen
the air distribution manifold
tube
retaining nuts at each cylinder exhaust port. Tap the injec­
tion
tubes
lightly to allow the air distribution mani­
fold to be pulled away partially from the exhaust manifold. The stainless steel injection
tubes
in the
exhaust manifold may have
become
partially fused
to the air distribution manifold and, therefore, may
require
application of heat to the joint in order to
separate. While applying heat to the joint, rotate
the injection
tubes
with pliers being careful not to
damage the
tubes
by applying excessive force.

At
time of installation, the air injection
tubes
must
be positioned into the exhaust manifold prior to
placing the exhaust manifold assembly on the en­ gine.

Note:
Two different length injection
tubes
are used.

The
shorter length injection
tubes
must be inserted into cylinders 1 and 4. 145

F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
the throttle
stop
screw to idle the
engine
at 650
to 700 rpm.

F2-17. Carburetor Idle Setting
The
"Lean
Best
Idle"
Method of Idle Setting is as
follows:

a.
Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment

b.
Connect tachometer to engine.

c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.

d.
Adjust
engine
idle to speed desired, using throt­
tle idle speed adjusting screw.
e.
Turn
idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise)

until
a
loss
of
engine
speed is indicated; then slowly
turn
mixture screws in (clockwise-leaner)
until
maximum speed (rpm) is reached. Continue

turning
in (clockwise) until speed begins to drop;

turn
mixture adjustment back out (counterclock­
wise-richer)
until maximum speed is just regained

at
a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.

F2-18. Distributor
The
ignition distributor used with the
Exhaust
Emission
Control
System is the same as that used
on
engines
without
Exhaust
Emission
Control.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and point
condition.
Check
ignition timing and adjust to specifications shown on the last
page
of this section.

F2-19.
Anti-Backfire
Valve

The
anti-backfire valve remains closed except when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an open position.
To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can
be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
which connects the valve to the

pump.
With
a finger placed over the open end of
the
hose
(not the valve), accelerate the
engine
and allow the throttle to close rapidly. The valve is
operating satisfactorily if a momentary air rushing
noise is audible.

F2-20.
Check
Valve

The
check valves in the lines to the air distribution manifolds prevent the reverse flow of exhaust
gases

to the pump in the event the pump should, for

any
reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust

pressure
ever exceed pump pressure.

To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the check

valve.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust
leakage at the check valve which is connected to
the distribution manifold.

F2-21.
Air
Pump

Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be 60 pounds measured on the
longest
accessible span
between two pulleys. DO NOT PRY ON THE

DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING. To
check the pump for proper operation, remove
the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine

running,
air discharge should be felt at one of
the pump
outlet
openings. The pump
outlet
air
pressure,
as determined by the relief valve, is preset
and
is not adjustable.

The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pres­
sure
relief valve are the only pump components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the event the relief valve was
tampered with.

F2-22.
Intake Manifold

Intake
manifold leaks must not be overlooked. Air
leakage at the intake manifold may be compen­
sated for by
richer
idle mixture setting, however, this
will
usually cause uneven fuel-air distribution
and
will
always result in
loss
of performance and
exhaust emission control. To check for air leakage
into the intake manifold, apply kerosene or naph­
tha,
on the intake manifold to cylinder head joints

and
observe whether any changes in
engine
rpm

occur.
If an air leak is indicated, check the mani­
fold to cylinder head bolt torque. The correct torque is 25-35 lbs. ft. [3,46 a 4,84 kg-m.]. If the

leak
is
still
evident,
loosen
the manifold assembly

and
torque-tighten the bolts evenly.
Start
from the center and use proper torque values. Replace the
manifold
gasket if the leak
still
exists.
Clean
both
mating surfaces and check for
burrs
or other ir­

regularities.

Always
torque the bolts evenly to the specified
torque value to prevent warpage.

F2-23.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner
—Oil
Bath

Every
6,000
miles [9,600 km.] disconnect attach­

ing
hoses
and unscrew the wing nut from the top
of the air cleaner and lift it off the carburetor.

Lift
the cover and filter element off the oil sump.

Clean
the inside surface of the sump and
refill
to

indicated
oil level with SAE 40 or 50
engine
oil
above 32 F; SAE 20 below 32 F.
Wash
filter element in kerosene and
drain.
Reassemble the air

cleaner
and install on carburetor.

More
frequent cleaning and replacement are advis­ able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on

unpaved
roads. Accumulated
dirt
restricts air flow,
reducing
fuel economy and performance.

F2-24.
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the exhaust emission
control
system and the required equipment needed.

F2-2S.
Air
Pump

Loosen
the air pump mounting bracket bolts. Re­ move the air pump air hose(s). Separate the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of install­
ation,
torque tighten the air pump mounting bolts
to
30-40
lbs.-ft [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.].
Adjust
the
belt strand tension to 60 pounds. 156

F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
F2-3L
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS
GUIDE

Pump Noisy
Hoses Touching Other Parts of Engine or Body (Hood).

Note:
The Air Pump is not completely noiseless.

Under
normal conditions, pump
noise
rises in pitch as
engine
speed
increases. It is desirable to allow
for normal break-in wear of the pump prior to re­
placement for
excessive
noise.
Pump Seized
Replace pump.
-
do not pry on housing.
Leak
In Hose

Check
for leaks; using
soap
and water, tighten clamps or replace
hoses.

Pump Inoperative
Loose Belt — tighten belt
-

Filter
Plugged — replace.

Exhaust
Backfire

Check
for vacuum leaks — correct as necessary.
Check
anti-backfire valve — replace as necessary
Induction System Backfire

Verify
engine
timing and distributor dwell.
Verify
accelerator pump charge.

F2-32.
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE CHART

Efficient
performance of the Exhaust Emission very important that all of the maintenance require-

Control
System is
dependent
upon precise main-
ments
are performed with extreme care at the
tenance. As indicated in the following chart, it is specific interval indicated.
Thousands of miles* or

OPERATION
number of months whichever occurs first 2 6 12 18 24 30
Inspect engine-driven
belts
for condition and tension R R
Replace positive crankcase ventilation valve
(PCV)
R R

Check
for free operation of exhaust manifold heat control valve O O O O O

Clean
carburetor air cleaner — Oil Bath O O O O O
Replace carburetor air cleaner
element
— Dry Type O
Check
heated air system O O

Engine
tune-up O O

Check
engine
timing R O O O
Adjust
carburetor idle
speed
and mixture R O O O

Perform
factory-recommended road
test
for evaluation of overall performance and handling O O O O O

R
— Required Services O — Recommended Services

*
Miles Kilometers
2,000
—
3,200

6,000
—
9,600

12,000
—
19,200 18,000
—
28,800
24,000
—
38,400
30,000
—
48,000

F2-33.
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Air
Pump Belt Tension 60 lb.

Rotor
Ring Screw Torque . 37 lb-in.
Housing Cover Bolt Torque 10 lb-ft. Speed Ratio, Air Pump to Engine
1
\i to 1

F2-34.
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS

Make
Rochester Model Designation 2G Code Number
7027082
—
7041185

Choke
Manual
Number of Barrels 2

Throttle
Bore... \W [3,65 cm.]
Main
Metering Jet Production .051" - 60° [1,29 mm.]
High
Altitude — over
5000
ft .049" - 60° [1,24 mm.]
—
over
10,000
ft .047" - 60° [1,19 mm.]

Float
Level
Adjustment* 1%," [2,94 cm.]
Float
Drop Adjustment l%" [4,76 cm.]
Pump Rod Adjustment** 1%" [2,94 cm.]
Engine
Idle
R.P.M.
(In Neutral) 650 to 700

Initial
Idle Speed-screw
setting
3 turns in

Initial
Idle Mixture-screw
setting
2 turns out
Dash
Pot Setting. Y%w [3,75 mm.]
*From
air horn gasket to top of float at toe.

**From
air cleaner ring to top of pump rod.
158

G
COOLING SYSTEM
engine
connections. Insert flushing gun and flush
heater core.
Care
must be taken when applying air
pressure to prevent damage to the heater core.

G-2.
Filling
Cooling System
To
fill
the cooling system, remove the
fill
cap and

fill
the tank to the top. Replace the cap and run
the
engine
at medium speed for approximately one
minute. Remove the cap and recheck the coolant level. Add more coolant if necessary to bring the level back to the top of the tank. If the cooling system is filled when the
engine
is cold, recheck the coolant level after the
engine
has warmed up.
This

will
ensure that the thermostat has opened allow­ ing complete cooling system circulation.

Always
correct any cooling system leaks before installing antifreeze. A corrosion inhibitor should be used in the cooling system to prevent the forma­
tion of rust and scale. A quality brand antifreeze containing a corrosion inhibitor should be used.

When
the antifreeze is drained in the spring, a
corrosion inhibitor should be added with the water.

Note:
Cooling system components for both V6 and

F4
engines
are shown in
Figs.
G-2 and G-3.

G-3. Draining
Cooling System

To
completely
drain
the cooling system, open the

drain
in the
bottom
of the radiator and also a

drain
on the right side of the cylinder block on the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The Dauntless V-6
engine

has two
drain
plugs, one located on each side of the cylinder block. Both plugs must be removed to
completely
drain
the cooling system.
Remove the radiator cap to break any vacuum
that may have developed.

Should
the cooling solution be lost from the system

and
the
engine
become
overheated do not
refill

the system immediately but allow the
engine
to cool or
refill
slowly while the
engine
is running. If
cold solution is poured into the radiator while the

engine
is overheated there is danger of cracking the

cylinder
block and/or cylinder head.
G-4.
Radiator Pressure
Cap

All
radiators are equipped with pressure caps which
reduce evaporation of cooling solution and make the
engines
more efficient by permitting slightly
higher operating temperatures. When operating
properly,
the pressure cap permits pressure build-up

in
the cooling system during periods of severe heat

load.
This
pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant and thus reduces overflow losses. The

effectiveness
of the cap is limited by its opening
pressure and the boiling point of the coolant (see
note
below). The pressure cap employs a spring-
loaded, rubber-faced pressure seal which presses against a seat in the radiator top tank. Spring pres­

sure
determines the opening pressure of the valve.

A
typical pressure cap is shown in Fig. G-5.

Note:
Refer to cooling system specifications (Par.

G-21)
for opening (relief) pressure when the ve­
hicle is equipped with either the
Hurricane
F4
or
Dauntless V-6 engine. If a new cap is required, always install a cap of the same type and pressure
rating
specified. It should never be altered or re­
placed by a plain cap.

A
vacuum release valve (Fig. G-5) is employed to
prevent undesirable vacuum build-up when the system
cools
down. The vacuum release valve is
held against its seat under light spring pressure.

Vacuum
in the system is relieved by the valve
which
opens
at V2 to 1 psi. [0,035 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

vacuum.
A pressure tester can be used to check and
test
the vacuum pressure rate (see Fig. G-6).
Although the mechanism of the pressure cap re­ quires no maintenance, the cap should be inspected
periodically for cleanliness and freedom of opera­ tion. The pressure cap gasket and radiator filler neck seat should also be inspected to be sure they

are
providing a proper seal. If the rubber face of
the valve is defective, a new cap should be installed.
Filler
neck reseating
tools
are commercially
avail­
able to correct minor
defects
at the surface of the seat. Follow instructions of the reseating tool manu­

facturer.

To
remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine
coolant temperature is high or boiling, place

a
cloth over the pressure cap and
turn
counter­ clockwise about Vi
turn
until the first (pressure release)
stop
is reached. Keep the cap in this posi­
tion until all pressure is released.
Then
push cap
down and
turn
still
further until cap can be re­ moved. To install the pressure cap, place it in posi­
tion and
turn
it clockwise as far as it
will
go.

Caution:
Use extreme care in removing the radiator
pressure cap. In overheated systems, the sudden release of pressure can cause a steam flash and this

flash,
or the
loosened
cap can cause serious personal

injury.

G-5.
RADIATOR

Maintenance of the radiator consists of keeping
the exterior of the radiator core clean, the interior free from rust and scale, and the radiator free from

leaks.
Check
the cooling system fluid level and for
leaks each
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] or every 30
days, whichever occurs first.
This
exterior of the

radiator
core should be cleaned and the radiator inspected for leaks each
6000
miles
[9.600
km.]
of normal service of the vehicle. Cleaning should be performed by blowing out with air stream or water stream directed from the
rear
of the radiator.

Visual
inspection is not sufficient as the accumula­ tion of small particles of foreign material on core
surfaces can restrict cooling without closing the core openings.

Radiator
leakage occasionally results from cor­
rosion perforation of the metal but most leakage results from mechanical failure of soldered joints
when too much strain has been put on the joint.
Fractures
occur most
often
at the joint where the
radiator
inlet and
outlet
pipes are attached to the

tanks.
When the seams break, the entire soldered

joint
is
exposed
and can corrode, but breakage
rather
than corrosion is the
primary
cause of seam
leakage. Examine the radiator carefully for leaks before and after cleaning. Cleaning may uncover points of leakage already existing but plugged with
rust.
White, rusty, or colored leakage stains indicate 164

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

G
cation period. It is
good
preventive maintenance to
replace a badly frayed, worn or cracked fan belt
before it breaks in operation.

To
replace the fan belt,
loosen
the attaching
bolts

at each generator or alternator brace-to-engine mounting and pivot the alternator or generator to­

ward
the
engine
to gain slack needed to install the new belt Remove the old belt. Position the new
belt over the fan pulley, over the crankshaft pulley,
then over the generator or alternator pulley.
Pull
the generator or alternator away from the
engine

until
belt tension is
firm.
Then tighten the generator

or
alternator mounting
bolts
and check the tension
as indicated above. Reset the generator or alternator as necessary for correct belt tension.
Finally,
torque
the generator or alternator mounting
bolts
25 to 35 lb-ft. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].

Note:
On the Dauntless V-6
engine
when adjusting
the fan belt tension, the alternator mounting
bolts

should be torqued 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,14 to 5,53

kg-m.].
If a fan belt tension
gauge
(W-283) is
avail­

able, proper tension should be 80 pounds [36,2 kg.].

G-l
9. Engine Overheating

An
engine
will
not be damaged by high coolant
temperatures unless the coolant boils. The pres­

surized
cooling system on the 'Jeep' vehicles raises the boiling point of the coolant solution. Should
overheating be encountered, and the fault is be­
lieved to be in the cooling system check for the
following:

a.
Proper coolant level. See
Filling
Cooling Sys­
tem Par. G-2.
b. Poor air flow.
Check
for dirty radiator core. (See Radiator Par. G-5).
Check
for faulty belt
pulley operation, worn or
loose
fan belt, or dam­ aged fan.
Clean,
repair, replace or adjust as neces­

sary.

c. Foaming coolant.
Check
for air leaks at water
pump,
hose
connection and filler cap. Tighten, re­

pair
or replace as necessary.

d.
Surging or "after boil".
Check
pressure cap and
replace if valves or gasket are faulty.
e.
External
leaks.
Check
the following for leaks:
Hoses and clamps, water pump, radiator, head gas­
ket, core plugs and drain cocks, as well as the cylin­ der head or block for
cracks.

f.
Internal
leaks.
Check
for faulty head gasket,
cracked
cylinder head or block.
g. Poor coolant flow.
Check
hose
condition, water pump, fan belt, and repair or replace as necessary. Inspect block for rust or scale, and clean and flush
the system, if necessary.

h.
Check
the temperature
gauge.
169

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL
. -H-l Alternator Charging System H-6, 63 Battery. . . .H-2

Electrical
Instruments. H-l 11 Ignition System H-3

Lighting
System H-8, 125

Primary
Circuit.
.. H-4 Secondary
Circuit
H-5
SparkPlugs H-33
Starting System H-7, 88

DISTRIBUTOR
—
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
H-9
Coil
H-19 Condenser
.H-l
2
Disassembly.
.........................
.H-16
Distributor Cap H-10 Distributor
Points
H-13
Governor Mechanism H-l4
Inspection H-l
7
Installation and Timing H-18
Removal H-15
Rotor H-ll

DISTRIBUTOR
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
H-20

Ballast
Resistor. H-32

Centrifugal
Advance H-25
Cleaning and Inspection H-28
Coil
H-31
Condenser H-23
Disassembly. H-27
Distributor Cap H-21 Distributor
Points
H-24
Installation and Timing. . .H-30
Reassembly. H-29
Removal H-2 6
Rotor H-2
2

GENERATOR CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
H-34 Generator Armature H-3
7

Generator Assembly. H-40
Generator
Brush
Holders H-39
Generator Disassembly H-36
Generator
Field
Coils.
H-38
Generator Maintenance H-35 Generator -
Current
-
Voltage
Regulator. . .H-41
Generator Regulator Quick Checks...... .H-48
Generator Regulator Test Procedure H-47

ALTERNATOR PRECAUTIONS.
H-64

ALTERNATOR CHARGING SYSTEM.
. .H-63 Alternator On-Vehicle Tests. .H-67
Alternator Output Test. .H-70 Isolation
Diode
Test H-69
Regulator Test .H-71 Removal and Installation of
Voltage
Regulator. H-72
SUBJECT
PAR.
Service
Diagnosis
H-66 Test Equipment H-68
Alternator
Field
Circuit
Test H-73
Brush
Insulation and Continuity Test H-75
Brush
Removal and Inspection H-74
Rotor In-Vehicle Tests H-76

ALTERNATOR BENCH TESTS.
.H-77

ALTERNATOR REMOVAL
H-78 Alternator Disassembly H-80 Alternator Installation. H-87
Assembling Alternator H-86
General
Inspection H-81
Diode
Test H-85

Out-Of-Circuit
Rotor Test. .H-82

Out-Of-Circuit
Stator Leakage Test.. . H-83 Rotor Tests H-79
Stator
Coil
Leakage and Continuity Test. .H-84

STARTING
MOTOR
—
PRESTOLITE.
. .H-92
Armature
.H-l
00 Bench Test H-l04
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive H-105

Brush
Holder Inspection. .H-102
Brushes H-98
Commutator H-95, 99
Disassembly H-9 7

Field
Coils H-101
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru
Drive H-l06
Maintenance Procedure H-93
Overhaul
Procedure H-96
Reassembly of Starting Motor. .
H-l
03
Starter
Solenoid
Switch H-10 7 Starter Ignition Switch. .H-89

Wiring.
. . . H-94

STARTING
MOTOR
—DELCO
H-108
Armature
H-101
Brush
Holder Inspection H-l 15 Brushes
H:lll

Commutator H-112

Field
Coils........
H-114
Locked
Armature Test. . . H-l20

Solenoid
Coils H-l 16
Starting Motor Reassembly H-l 17
Starting Motor Cleaning and Inspection.
.H-l
10
Starting Motor Disassembly .H-109 Starting Motor No-Load Test H-119
Starting Motor Test — General H-l 18 Starter Switch —
Solenoid
Type. H-l21
Starter Ignition Switch. .H-89

ELECTRICAL
INSTRUMENTS
H-122 Testing Instrument Gauges H-l24

LIGHTING
SYSTEM
H-l25 Aiming Head Lamps H-132

Backup
Lamps H-135

(continued
on
next
page)
171

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM SUBJECT
PAR.

Directional
Signal
Lamps
H-138

Hazard
Warning
Lamps
H-139

Head
Lamp
Replacement H-130
Head
Lamp
Aiming Procedure H-131 Headlight Dimmer Switch H-127

License
Plate
Lamp
H-136
Main
Light
Switch. H-126

Marker
Lights .H-l40

Parking
and
Turn
Signal
Light
H-133
Stop
Light
Switch. H-l28
Tail,
Stop and
Turn
Signal
Lamp
.H-134

H-1. GENERAL
All
'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with 12- volt electrical systems. Use caution around the higher
voltage
of the 12-volt system as accidental

short
circuits are more capable of damaging electri­
cal
units. Also, arcs around the 12-volt battery are
more apt to ignite any gas that may be escaping

from
it. In the following paragraphs
will
be found
information about the battery, distributor, coil,
generator, alternator,
voltage
regulator and start­ ing motor. These units with the connecting wires,

make
up the
engine
electrical system. The wiring
diagram
will
show the different circuits of the en­

gine
electrical system and the various units which
make
up
those
circuits.

With
plastic-covered wiring harnesses use only

rubber-insulated
wiring clips.

Caution:
All current production vehicles are 12- volt, negative ground. Whenever servicing a 12-
volt electrical system, use caution, as an accidental

short
circuit is capable of damaging electrical units. Disconnect battery ground cable before changing

electrical
components.

H-2.
Battery

The
battery is a storage reservoir for electrical
energy produced by the alternator or generator.
The
battery should store sufficient energy for
operation of the entire electrical system when the
alternator
or generator is not pr 1,scing output,

such
as when the ignition is first turned on. Of

particular
importance is maintaining the electrolyte
at the correct level, regularly checking with a
hydrometer, and maintaining clean, tight cable connections.

Battery
service information is given in this section.

Caution:
Do not allow flames or sparks to be
brought near the vent
openings
of the battery since
hydrogen gas may be present in the battery and might explode.

Note:
The liquid in the battery (electrolyte) is a
solution of sulphuric acid which, on contact, can

injure
skin or
eyes,
or damage clothes. If it is spilled
on the skin or spattered in the
eyes,
promptly flush
it
away with quantities of clear water only. If the

acid
is spilled on clothes, wet it thoroughly with a

weak
solution of ammonia, or with a solution of sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.
SUBJECT
PAR.

HORN
H-137

ELECTRICAL
COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT
H-150

WINDSHIPLD
WIPER SYSTEM
H-141
thru
149

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. .H-151

ELECTRICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
H-152

Caution:
When installing the battery, the nega­
tive terminal must be grounded. Reverse polarity of the battery can cause severe damage to the charg­ing system.

Battery
Inspection

a.
Check
the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of 1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.

If
the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery
needs

recharging.
If one or more cells is 25 "points" (.025) or more lower than the other cells, this in­
dicates that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to

fail,
or there is a
crack
in the battery partition in
the case. Unless the battery is repaired or replaced, battery trouble
will
soon
be experienced.

b.
Check
the electrolyte level in each cell, add

distilled
water to maintain the solution [9,5 mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. It is important to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all
times because plates that are
exposed
for any
length of time
will
be seriously damaged.

c.
Check
the wing nuts on the hold-down frame for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pres­

sure,
never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive
pressure
could damage the battery case.

d.
Clean
the battery terminals and cable con­ nectors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda

and
water and brush it around the terminals to
remove any corrosion that is present. The cell caps must be tight and their vents sealed to prevent
cleaning solution entering the cells. After cleaning,
connect cables to battery and coat the terminals

with
heavy grease.

e.
Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded
or frayed.
Check
tightness
of terminal
screws to ensure
good
electrical connections.
Check

the
tightness
of the negative ground cable con­nection at the frame to ensure a
good
ground
connection.
f.
Load
test
the battery. Connect a voltmeter across the battery. Run the starting motor for 15 seconds. If the
voltage
does
not drop below 10
volts the battery is satisfactory. If the
voltage
falls
below the figure given, yet the specific gravity is
above
1.225,
the condition of the battery is questionable.
g. Be sure the
engine
ground strap connection, 172

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

FIG.
H-l—ENGINE
GROUND
STRAP—F4
ENGINE
Fig.
H-l, is tight at both connections. If
these

connections are
loose
-
or
dirty,
hard
starting or
failure
to start may result.

H-3.
Ignition System

The
ignition system consists of the battery, ignition

switch,
ignition coil ballast resistor (V-6 engine
only),
ignition coil, ignition distributor,
spark
plugs,

and
the low and high tension wiring.
Electrical

energy is obtained from the battery while cranking
and
from the alternator after the engine is running.

These
supply circuits must be considered part of
the ignition system.

The
ignition system furnishes the
spark
-for the

spark
plugs. The
spark
must occur in each cylinder
at exactly the proper time. To accomplish this, the following units are required.

a.
The battery, supplying the electrical energy.
Note: 'Jeep* vehicles equipped with Dauntless

V-6
engines have a ballast resistor connected be­ tween the ignition switch and the positive (+)

terminal
of the coil. The ballast resistor limits to
a
safe maximum the
primary
current flow through
the coil and the distributor contact points.

b.
The ignition coil, transforming the battery low
tension current to high tension current that jumps
the
spark
plug gap in the cylinders under com­
pression.

c.
The distributor, delivering the
spark
to the

proper
cylinders and incorporates the mechanical

breaker,
that
opens
and closes the
primary
circuit at the exact time.

d.
The
spark
plugs, providing the gap in the engine
cylinders.

e. The wiring, connecting the various ignition
units.

f. The ignition switch controling the battery
current
when it is desired to start or
stop
the engine.
g. The firing order for the
Hurricane
F4 engine is
1-3-4-2.
Cylinder
No. 1 is the cylinder closest to the

radiator.

h.
The firing order for the Dauntless V-6 engine
is
1-6-5-4-3-2.
Cylinders
1-3-5 are on the left bank

and
cylinders 2-4-6 are on the right bank. H-4.
PRIMARY
CIRCUIT

Before testing the
primary
circuit,
make certain
that the battery is satisfactory or install a fully

charged
battery for the
primary
circuit
tests. Also,

check
the starter motor for excessive voltage drop

and
check the starter motor itself for excessive
draw.

a.
Measure the voltage at the coil
primary
termi­

nals
while cranking the engine with the starter
motor. If the voltage is less than 9 volts the trouble

will
be found in the
primary
circuit.
If there is no voltage at all, check for a break in the
primary

circuit,
possibly in the coil
primary
winding.

b.
To check the
primary
circuit,
turn
the ignition
on,
turn
the engine until the points are closed, and
then measure the voltage drop across each portion
of the circuit with a voltmeter.
Note: Most voltage drops
will
be found at the con­
nections of wires to terminals as
dirt,
oxidation etc. can cause excessive resistance at
these
points.

Measure
voltage drops in wires to take this into
account.

c.
Connect the voltmeter from the battery cable

terminal
on the starter solenoid to the battery

terminal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more than 0.2 volt, perform the checks given in
steps, d, e, and f following.

d.
Connect the voltmeter from the solenoid termi­

nal
to the battery terminal of the ignition switch.
If
the voltmeter reads more than .05 volt, check

and
clean the connections at solenoid, light switch,
and
ignition switch.
e. If the voltmeter reading in
step
d is less than .05 volt, connect the voltmeter from the battery

terminal
to the ignition terminal on the ignition
switch.
If the voltage drop is more than 0.1 volt,

repair
or replace the ignition switch.
f. If the voltage drop in
step
e is not more than 0.1 volt, connect the voltmeter from the ignition

terminal
of the ignition switch to the battery termi­

nal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more

than
.05 volt, clean and tighten the connections

and
check again. If the voltmeter again reads more

than
.05 volt, replace the wire.
g. Connect the voltmeter from the distributor
primary
terminal on the coil to the coil terminal on
the distributor. Voltage drop should not exceed .05 volt.
Clean
and tighten connections if necessary.

h.
Connect the voltmeter from the coil terminal
on the distributor to a clean,
paint-
free spot on the

distributor
body. The reading should not exceed .05
volt. If more, it indicates excessive resistance
through the points or in the distributor internal connections.
Clean
and align the points and make

sure
the breaker arm connection to the
primary

terminal
as well as the stationary contact point mounting in the body is clean and tight.

i.
Open the points and check the voltmeter. It
should read close to peak voltage. Low voltage in­ dicates that a circuit through the distributor (a

short)
exists while the points are open.

j.
Disconnect the condenser lead and open the points. A jump to
full
voltage indicates a short in 173