Removing a transmission JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

(12) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(13) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole.
(14) Install fill hole plug.
(15) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL-TRAC-LOC
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 56).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp side gear Holding Fixture 6965 in a vise
and position the differential case on the Holding Fix-
ture (Fig. 57).
Fig. 56 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 57 DIFFERENTIAL CASE FIXTURE
1 - HOLDING FIXTURE
2 - VISE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
WJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 79
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(12) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(13) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole.
(14) Install fill hole plug.
(15) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 56).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp side gear Holding Fixture 6965 in a vise
and position the differential case on the Holding Fix-
ture (Fig. 57).
(2) Remove ring gear if the ring gear is to be
replaced. The Trac-loktdifferential can be serviced
with the ring gear installed.
Fig. 56 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 57 DIFFERENTIAL CASE FIXTURE
1 - HOLDING FIXTURE
2 - VISE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 119
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

(4) Remove two radiator mounting bolts.
(5) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(6) Disconnect electrical connector for the fan con-
trol solenoid.
(7) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler and filter.
(8) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(9) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(10) Remove the air inlet duct at the grill.(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 35). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Disconnect the two high pressure fluid lines
at the hydraulic fan drive.
(13) Disconnect the low pressure return hose at
the hydraulic fan drive.
(14) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
Fig. 32 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 33 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 34 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
WJENGINE 7 - 43
RADIATOR - 4.7L (Continued)

Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 37). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 38). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 39). These are used at the top, bot-
tom and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser.
To prevent overheating, these seals must be
installed to their original positions.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive
assembly from vehicle at this time.(4) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove two radiator mounting bolts (Fig. 41).
(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect electric fan connector, then discon-
nect connector harness from shroud (Fig. 41).
(8) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses
(Fig. 41).
Fig. 36 Cross Flow Radiator - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
Fig. 37 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 38 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
WJENGINE 7 - 45
RADIATOR - 4.0L (Continued)

INSPECTION
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toStarting
Systemin the Contents of Group 8W - Wiring Dia-
grams. Before removing any unit from the starting
system for repair or diagnosis, perform the following
inspections:
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO GROUP 8M - PASSIVE
RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY
STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR
INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
²Battery- Visually inspect the battery for indi-
cations of physical damage and loose or corroded
cable connections. Determine the state-of-charge and
cranking capacity of the battery. Charge or replace
the battery, if required. Refer toBatteryin the
proper section of Group 8A - Battery for complete ser-
vice information for the battery.
²Ignition Switch- Visually inspect the ignition
switch for indications of physical damage and loose
or corroded wire harness connections. Refer toIgni-
tion Switch and Key Lock Cylinderin the proper
section of Group 8D - Ignition System for complete
service information for the ignition switch.
²Park/Neutral Position Switch- Visually
inspect the park/neutral position switch for indica-
tions of physical damage and loose or corroded wire
harness connections. Refer toPark/Neutral Posi-
tion Switchin the proper section of Group 21 -
Transmission for complete service information for the
park/neutral position switch.
²Starter Relay- Visually inspect the starter
relay for indications of physical damage and loose or
corroded wire harness connections.
²Starter Motor- Visually inspect the starter
motor for indications of physical damage and loose or
corroded wire harness connections.
²Starter Solenoid- Visually inspect the starter
solenoid for indications of physical damage and loose
or corroded wire harness connections.
²Wiring- Visually inspect the wire harnesses for
damage. Repair or replace any faulty wiring, as
required. Refer to the proper section ofGroup 8W -
Wiring Diagramsfor complete service information
and circuit diagrams for the starting system wiring
components.TESTING
COLD CRANKING TEST
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toStarting
Systemin the Contents of Group 8W - Wiring Dia-
grams. The battery must be fully-charged and load-
tested before proceeding. Refer toBatteryin the
Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 8A - Battery
for the procedures.
(1) Connect a suitable volt-ampere tester to the
battery terminals (Fig. 1). See the instructions pro-
vided by the manufacturer of the volt-ampere tester
being used.
(2) Fully engage the parking brake.
(3) Place the automatic transmission gearshift
selector lever in the Park position.
(4) Verify that all lamps and accessories are
turned off.
(5) To prevent the engine from starting, remove
the Automatic ShutDown (ASD) relay. The ASD relay
is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC), in
the engine compartment. Refer to the fuse and relay
layout label affixed to the underside of the PDC cover
for ASD relay identification and location.
(6) Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the Start
position. Note the cranking voltage and current
(amperage) draw readings shown on the volt-ampere
tester.
(a) If the voltage reads below 9.6 volts, refer to
Starter Motorin the Diagnosis and Testing sec-
tion of this group. If the starter motor is OK, refer
toEngine Diagnosisin the Diagnosis and Testing
section of Group 9 - Engine for further testing of
the engine. If the starter motor is not OK, replace
the faulty starter motor.
Fig. 1 Volts-Amps Tester Connections - Typical
1 - POSITIVE CLAMP
2 - NEGATIVE CLAMP
3 - INDUCTION AMMETER CLAMP
8F - 32 STARTINGWJ
STARTING (Continued)

(4) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 1 and
7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(5) Using special tool 8516 press downward on the
valve spring, install rocker arm (Fig. 44).
(6) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for
intake and exhaust applications. The valve spring
seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a
positive type seal to control lubrication.
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals are made of rubber and incor-
porate an integral steel valve spring seat. The inte-
gral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication
control to the valve stems.
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 45).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
Fig. 45 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 108 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 65), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool
8349±2 (Fig. 66) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then
position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Fig. 67),
with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue totap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
Fig. 65 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
Fig. 66 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Guide Special Tool
8349±2 and Oil
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349±2 GUIDE
Fig. 67 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349±1 INSTALLER
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 117

(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 94)hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and
has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich
style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray
and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket is
molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as
long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Remove exhaust system Y-pipe.
(5) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(6) Drain engine oil.
(7) Un-clip transmission lines from support on oil
pan stud. Move lines for oil pan clearance.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when lowering oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(8) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(9) Remove oil pump pickup tube.
(10) Remove oil pan gasket.
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
(2) Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends
or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean oil pan and all sealing surfaces. Inspect
oil pan gasket and replace as necessary.
(2) Install oil pan gasket.
Fig. 93 Oil Filter - 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 94 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 132 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)

KEY-IN IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The key-in ignition switch is concealed within and
integral to the ignition switch, which is mounted on
the steering column. The key-in ignition switch is
actuated by the ignition lock cylinder mechanism,
and is hard wired between a body ground and the
Body Control Module (BCM) through the instrument
panel wire harness.
The key-in ignition switch cannot be adjusted or
repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the entire igni-
tion switch unit must be replaced,(Refer to 19 -
STEERING/COLUMN/LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
- REMOVAL). For complete circuit diagrams, refer to
Body Control Modulein the Contents of Wiring
Diagrams.
OPERATION
The key-in ignition switch closes a path to ground
for the BCM when the ignition key is inserted in the
ignition lock cylinder, and opens the ground path
when the key is removed from the ignition lock cyl-
inder. The BCM monitors the key-in ignition switch
status through an internal pull-up, then sends the
proper switch status messages to other electronic
modules over the Programmable Communications
Interface (PCI) data bus network. The key-in ignition
switch status is also used by the BCM as an input
for chime warning system operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
KEY-IN IGNITION SWITCH
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toBody Con-
trol Modulein the Contents of Wiring Diagrams.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO GROUP 8M - PASSIVE
RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY
STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR
INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector from the key-in ignition switch connector
receptacle on the ignition switch. Check for continu-
ity between the key-in ignition switch sense and
ground terminals of the key-in ignition switch con-
nector receptacle. There should be continuity with
the key inserted in the ignition lock cylinder, and no
continuity with the key removed from the ignition
lock cylinder. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace
the faulty ignition switch unit.
(2) Check for continuity between the ground cir-
cuit cavity of the instrument panel wire harness con-
nector for the key-in ignition switch and a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(3) Disconnect the gray 26-way instrument panel
wire harness connector from the Body Control Mod-
ule (BCM) connector receptacle. Check for continuity
between the key-in ignition switch sense circuit cav-
ity of the instrument panel wire harness connector
for the key-in ignition switch and a good ground.
There should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If
not OK, repair the shorted key-in ignition switch
sense circuit as required.
(4) Check for continuity between the key-in igni-
tion switch sense circuit cavities of the instrument
panel wire harness connector for the key-in ignition
switch and the gray 26-way instrument panel wire
harness connector for the BCM. There should be con-
tinuity. If OK, use a DRB scan tool and the proper
Diagnostic Procedures manual to test the BCM. If
not OK, repair the open key-in ignition switch sense
circuit as required.
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for
cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed
first before removing ignition switch.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
place shifter in PARK position.
(3) Rotate key to ON position.
19 - 14 COLUMNWJ