battery cables JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G User Guide

The battery cables (Fig. 17) or (Fig. 18) are large
gauge, stranded copper wires sheathed within a
heavy plastic or synthetic rubber insulating jacket.
The wire used in the battery cables combines excel-
lent flexibility and reliability with high electrical cur-
rent carrying capacity. Refer toWiring Diagrams
for battery cable wire gauge information.
A clamping type female battery terminal made of
soft lead is die cast onto one end of the battery cable
wire. A square headed pinch-bolt and hex nut are
installed at the open end of the female battery termi-
nal clamp. Large eyelet type terminals are crimped
onto the opposite end of the battery cable wire and
then solder-dipped. The battery positive cable wires
have a red insulating jacket to provide visual identi-
fication and feature a larger female battery terminal
clamp to allow connection to the larger battery posi-
tive terminal post. The battery negative cable wires
have a black insulating jacket and a smaller female
battery terminal clamp.
The battery cables cannot be repaired and, if dam-
aged or faulty they must be replaced. Both the bat-
tery positive and negative cables are available for
service replacement only as a unit with the battery
wire harness, which may include portions of the wir-
ing circuits for the generator and other components
on some models. Refer toWiring Diagramsfor more
information on the various wiring circuits included in
the battery wire harness for the vehicle being ser-
viced.
OPERATION
The battery cables connect the battery terminal
posts to the vehicle electrical system. These cables
also provide a path back to the battery for electrical
current generated by the charging system for restor-
ing the voltage potential of the battery. The female
battery terminal clamps on the ends of the battery
cable wires provide a strong and reliable connection
of the battery cable to the battery terminal posts.
The terminal pinch bolts allow the female terminal
clamps to be tightened around the male terminal
posts on the top of the battery. The eyelet terminals
secured to the opposite ends of the battery cable
wires from the female battery terminal clamps pro-
vide secure and reliable connection of the battery
cables to the vehicle electrical system.
The battery positive cable terminal clamp is die
cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an eye-
let terminal that connects the battery positive cable
to the B(+) terminal stud of the Power Distribution
Center (PDC), and the other wire has an eyelet ter-
minal that connects the battery positive cable to the
B(+) terminal stud of the engine starter motor sole-
noid. The battery negative cable terminal clamp is
also die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wirehas an eyelet terminal that connects the battery neg-
ative cable to the vehicle powertrain through a stud
on the right side of the engine cylinder block. The
other wire has an eyelet terminal that connects the
battery negative cable to the vehicle body through a
ground screw on the right front fender inner shield,
near the battery.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BATTERY CABLES
A voltage drop test will determine if there is exces-
sive resistance in the battery cable terminal connec-
tions or the battery cable. If excessive resistance is
found in the battery cable connections, the connec-
tion point should be disassembled, cleaned of all cor-
rosion or foreign material, then reassembled.
Following reassembly, check the voltage drop for the
battery cable connection and the battery cable again
to confirm repair.
When performing the voltage drop test, it is impor-
tant to remember that the voltage drop is giving an
indication of the resistance between the two points at
which the voltmeter probes are attached.EXAM-
PLE:When testing the resistance of the battery pos-
itive cable, touch the voltmeter leads to the battery
positive cable terminal clamp and to the battery pos-
itive cable eyelet terminal at the starter solenoid
B(+) terminal stud. If you probe the battery positive
terminal post and the battery positive cable eyelet
terminal at the starter solenoid B(+) terminal stud,
you are reading the combined voltage drop in the
battery positive cable terminal clamp-to-terminal
post connection and the battery positive cable.
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
The following operation will require a voltmeter
accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing this
test, be certain that the following procedures are
accomplished:
²The battery is fully-charged and load tested.
Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper battery
charging and load test procedures.
²Fully engage the parking brake.
²If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in the
Park position. If the vehicle is equipped with a man-
ual transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in
the Neutral position and block the clutch pedal in the
fully depressed position.
²Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned
off.
²To prevent the engine from starting, remove the
Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay. The ASD relay is
located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC), in
the engine compartment. See the fuse and relay lay-
out label affixed to the underside of the PDC cover
for ASD relay identification and location.
8F - 18 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)

(4) Loosen the battery positive cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(5) Disconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp from the battery positive terminal post. If nec-
essary, use a battery terminal puller to remove the
terminal clamp from the battery post.
(6) Unlatch and open the cover on the Power Dis-
tribution Center (PDC).
(7) Remove the two nuts that secure the battery
positive cable and generator output cable eyelet ter-
minal to the B(+) terminal studs in the PDC.
(8) Remove the battery positive cable and genera-
tor output cable eyelet terminal from the B(+) termi-
nal studs in the PDC.
(9) Disconnect the battery wire harness connector
from the right headlamp and dash wire harness con-
nector located near the front of the battery.
(10) Remove the screw that secures the battery
negative cable eyelet terminal to the inner fender
shield near the front of the battery.
(11) On models with the 4.7L engine, remove the
nut that secures the battery harness clip to the stud
on the right side of the intake manifold and remove
the clip from the stud.
(12) Unlatch and remove the cover from the gener-
ator output terminal stud housing on the back of the
generator.
(13) Remove the nut that secures the generator
output cable eyelet terminal to the generator output
terminal stud.
(14) Remove the generator output cable eyelet ter-
minal from the generator output terminal stud.
(15) Disconnect the battery wire harness connector
from the generator field terminal connector recepta-
cle on the back of the generator.(16) Remove the screw that secures the battery
negative cable ground eyelet terminal to the right
side of the engine block.
(17) Remove the nut that secures the battery pos-
itive cable eyelet terminal to the B(+) terminal stud
on the starter solenoid.
(18) Remove the battery positive cable eyelet ter-
minal from the B(+) terminal stud on the starter
solenoid.
(19) Disconnect the battery wire harness connector
from the connector receptacle on the starter solenoid.
(20) Remove the battery wire harness from the
engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
Both the battery negative cable and the battery
positive cable are serviced in the battery wire har-
ness. If either battery cable is damaged or faulty, the
battery wire harness unit must be replaced.
(1) Clean and inspect the battery cable terminal
clamps and the battery terminal posts.
(2) Position the battery wire harness into the
engine compartment (Fig. 23) or (Fig. 24).
(3) Reconnect the battery wire harness connector
to the connector receptacle on the starter solenoid.
(4) Install the battery positive cable eyelet termi-
nal onto the B(+) terminal stud on the starter sole-
noid.Fig. 22 TEST GROUND CIRCUIT RESISTANCE -
TYPICAL
1 - VOLTMETER
2 - BATTERY
3 - ENGINE GROUND
Fig. 23 Battery Cables - 4.0L Engine
1 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
2 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
3 - CLIPS
8F - 20 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)

(5) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
battery positive cable eyelet terminal to the B(+) ter-
minal stud on the starter solenoid. Tighten the nut to
11.3 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(6) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
battery negative cable ground eyelet terminal to the
right side of the engine block. Tighten the screw to
10.2 N´m (90 in. lbs.) for 4.0L engines, or 13.0 N´m
(115 in. lbs.) for 4.7L engines.
(7) Reconnect the battery wire harness connector
to the generator field terminal connector receptacle
on the back of the generator.
(8) Install the generator output cable eyelet termi-
nal onto the generator output terminal stud.
(9) Install and tighten the nut that secures the
generator output cable eyelet terminal to the genera-
tor output terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 10.7
N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(10) Position the cover for the generator output
terminal stud housing onto the back of the generator
and snap it into place.
(11) On models with the 4.7L engine, install the
battery harness clip onto the stud on the right side of
the intake manifold, then install and tighten the nut
that secures the clip to the stud. Tighten the nut to
11.3 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(12) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
battery negative cable eyelet terminal to the inner
fender shield near the front of the battery. Tighten
the screw to 28.2 N´m (250 in. lbs.).(13) Reconnect the battery wire harness connector
to the right headlamp and dash wire harness connec-
tor located near the front of the battery.
(14) Install the battery positive cable and genera-
tor output cable eyelet terminal onto the PDC B(+)
terminal studs.
(15) Install and tighten the two nuts that secure
the battery positive cable and generator output cable
eyelet terminal to the PDC B(+) terminal studs.
Tighten the nuts to 11.3 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(16) Close and latch the PDC cover.
(17) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 6.8 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
(18) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 6.8 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
(19) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or
chassis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery
cable terminal clamps and the battery terminal
posts.BATTERY TRAY
DESCRIPTION
The battery is mounted in a molded plastic battery
tray and support unit (Fig. 25) located in the right
front corner of the engine compartment. The battery
tray and support unit is secured at the rear with a
nut to a stud on the front wheelhouse inner panel, at
the outboard side with a screw to the side cowl rein-
forcement panel, and at the front with a screw
through a U-nut on a bracket of the radiator support.
The battery tray and support unit also includes
three upright stanchions that are molded into the
outboard side of the unit. These stanchions support
the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to
Power Distribution Centerin the Power Distribu-
tion section of this service manual for more informa-
tion on the PDC.
A hole in the bottom of the battery tray is fitted
with a battery temperature sensor. Refer toBattery
Temperature Sensorin the Charging section of
this service manual for more information on the bat-
tery temperature sensor. Refer toBattery Hold
Downin this section of the service manual for more
information on the battery hold down hardware.
Fig. 24 Battery Cables - 4.7L Engine
1 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
2 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
3 - CLIPS
WJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 21
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)

STARTING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
STARTING
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................30
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTING
SYSTEM............................30
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE - STARTER...................35
STARTER MOTOR - GAS POWERED......35
STARTER MOTOR
DESCRIPTION.........................35
OPERATION...........................36DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTER
MOTOR .............................36
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................38
STARTER MOTOR RELAY
DESCRIPTION.........................38
OPERATION...........................38
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTER RELAY . 38
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................40
STARTING
DESCRIPTION
An electrically operated engine starting system is
standard factory-installed equipment on this model.
The starting system is designed to provide the vehi-
cle operator with a convenient, efficient and reliable
means of cranking and starting the internal combus-
tion engine used to power the vehicle and all of its
accessory systems from within the safe and secure
confines of the passenger compartment. See the own-
er's manual in the vehicle glove box for more infor-
mation and instructions on the recommended use
and operation of the factory-installed starting sys-
tem.
The starting system consists of the following com-
ponents:
²Battery
²Starter relay
²Starter motor (including an integral starter sole-
noid)
²Ignition switch
²Park/neutral position switch
²Wire harnesses and connections (including the
battery cables).
This group provides complete service information
for the starter motor and the starter relay. Complete
service information for the other starting system
components can be located as follows:
²Refer toBatteryin the proper section of Group
8A - Battery for complete service information for the
battery.
²Refer toIgnition Switch and Key Lock Cyl-
inderin the proper section of Group 8D - Ignition
System for complete service information for the igni-
tion switch.²Refer toPark/Neutral Position Switchin the
proper section of Group 21 - Transmission for com-
plete service information for the park/neutral posi-
tion switch.
²Refer to the proper section ofGroup 8W - Wir-
ing Diagramsfor complete service information and
circuit diagrams for the starting system wiring com-
ponents.
Group 8A covers the Battery, Group 8B covers the
Starting Systems, and Group 8C covers the Charging
System. We have separated these systems to make it
easier to locate the information you are seeking
within this Service Manual. However, when attempt-
ing to diagnose any of these systems, it is important
that you keep their interdependency in mind.
The battery, starting, and charging systems in the
vehicle operate with one another, and must be tested
as a complete system. In order for the vehicle to start
and charge properly, all of the components that are
used in these systems must perform within specifica-
tions.
The diagnostic procedures used in each of these
groups include the most basic conventional diagnostic
methods, to the more sophisticated On-Board Diag-
nostics (OBD) built into the Powertrain Control Mod-
ule (PCM). Use of an induction-type milliampere
ammeter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile
rheostat (load tester), and 12-volt test lamp may be
required.
All OBD-sensed systems are monitored by the
PCM. Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnos-
tic Trouble Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in
electronic memory for any failure it detects. Refer to
On-Board Diagnostic Test For Charging System
in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 8C -
Charging System for more information.
WJSTARTING 8F - 29

OPERATION
The starting system components form two separate
circuits. A high-amperage feed circuit that feeds the
starter motor between 150 and 350 amperes, and a
low-amperage control circuit that operates on less
than 20 amperes. The high-amperage feed circuit
components include the battery, the battery cables,
the contact disc portion of the starter solenoid, and
the starter motor. The low-amperage control circuit
components include the ignition switch, the park/
neutral position switch, the starter relay, the electro-
magnetic windings of the starter solenoid, and the
connecting wire harness components.
Battery voltage is supplied through the low-amper-
age control circuit to the coil battery terminal of the
starter relay when the ignition switch is turned to
the momentary Start position. The park/neutral posi-
tion switch is installed in series between the starter
relay coil ground terminal and ground. This normally
open switch prevents the starter relay from being
energized and the starter motor from operating
unless the automatic transmission gear selector is in
the Neutral or Park positions.
When the starter relay coil is energized, the nor-
mally open relay contacts close. The relay contacts
connect the relay common feed terminal to the relay
normally open terminal. The closed relay contacts
energize the starter solenoid coil windings.
The energized solenoid pull-in coil pulls in the sole-
noid plunger. The solenoid plunger pulls the shift
lever in the starter motor. This engages the starter
overrunning clutch and pinion gear with the starter
ring gear on the automatic transmission torque con-
verter drive plate.
As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its
travel, the solenoid contact disc completes the high-
amperage starter feed circuit and energizes the sole-
noid plunger hold-in coil. Current now flows between
the solenoid battery terminal and the starter motor,
energizing the starter.Once the engine starts, the overrunning clutch pro-
tects the starter motor from damage by allowing the
starter pinion gear to spin faster than the pinion
shaft. When the driver releases the ignition switch to
the On position, the starter relay coil is de-energized.
This causes the relay contacts to open. When the
relay contacts open, the starter solenoid plunger
hold-in coil is de-energized.
When the solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-ener-
gized, the solenoid plunger return spring returns the
plunger to its relaxed position. This causes the con-
tact disc to open the starter feed circuit, and the shift
lever to disengage the overrunning clutch and pinion
gear from the starter ring gear.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTING
SYSTEM
The battery, starting, and charging systems oper-
ate with one another, and must be tested as a com-
plete system. In order for the vehicle to start and
charge properly, all of the components involved in
these systems must perform within specifications.
Group 8A covers the Battery, Group 8B covers the
Starting Systems, and Group 8C covers the Charging
System. We have separated these systems to make it
easier to locate the information you are seeking
within this Service Manual. However, when attempt-
ing to diagnose any of these systems, it is important
that you keep their interdependency in mind.
The diagnostic procedures used in these groups
include the most basic conventional diagnostic meth-
ods, to the more sophisticated On-Board Diagnostics
(OBD) built into the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). Use of an induction-type milliampere amme-
ter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile rheo-
stat (load tester), and 12-volt test lamp may be
required.
All OBD-sensed systems are monitored by the
PCM. Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnos-
tic Trouble Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in
electronic memory for any failure it detects. Refer to
On-Board Diagnostic Test For Charging System
in the Diagnosis and Testing section of Group 8C -
Charging System for more information.
8F - 30 STARTINGWJ
STARTING (Continued)

OPERATION
Although cylinder firing order is the same as 4.0L
Jeep engines of previous years, spark plug firing is
not. The 3 coils dual-fire the spark plugs on cylinders
1-6, 2-5 and/or 3-4. When one cylinder is being fired
(on compression stroke), the spark to the opposite
cylinder is being wasted (on exhaust stroke).
Battery voltage is supplied to the three ignition
coils from the ASD relay. The Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) opens and closes the ignition coil
ground circuit for ignition coil operation.
Base ignition timing is not adjustable.By con-
trolling the coil ground circuit, the PCM is able to set
the base timing and adjust the ignition timing
advance. This is done to meet changing engine oper-
ating conditions.
The ignition coil is not oil filled. The windings are
embedded in an epoxy compound. This provides heat
and vibration resistance that allows the ignition coil
to be mounted on the engine.
Because of coil design, spark plug cables (second-
ary cables) are not used. The cables are integral
within the coil rail.
REMOVAL
A one-piece coil rail assembly containing three
individual coils is used on the 4.0L engine (Fig. 13).
The coil rail must be replaced as one assembly. The
bottom of the coil is equipped with 6 individual rub-
ber boots (Fig. 13) to seal the 6 spark plugs to the
coil. Inside each rubber boot is a spring. The spring
is used for an electrical contact between the coil and
the top of the spark plug. These rubber boots and
springs are a permanent part of the coil and are not
serviced separately.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) The coil is bolted directly to the cylinder head.
Remove 4 coil mounting bolts (Fig. 14).
(3) Carefully pry up coil assembly from spark
plugs. Do this by prying alternately at each end of
coil until rubber boots have disengaged from all
spark plugs. If boots will not release from spark
plugs, use a commercially available spark plug boot
removal tool. Twist and loosen a few boots from a few
spark plugs to help remove coil.
(4) After coil has cleared spark plugs, position coil
for access to primary electrical connector. Disconnect
connector from coil by pushing slide tab outwards to
right side of vehicle (Fig. 15). After slide tab has been
positioned outwards, push in on secondary release
lock (Fig. 15) on side of connector and pull connector
from coil.
(5) Remove coil from vehicle.
Fig. 13 Ignition Coil AssemblyÐ4.0L 6±Cylinder
Engine
1 - CYL. #6
2 - CYL. #5
3 - CYL. #4
4 - CYL. #3
5 - CYL. #2
6 - CYL. #1
7 - COILS (3)
8 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
9 - BOLT BASES (4)
10 - RUBBER BOOTS (6)
Fig. 14 Ignition Coil Rail LocationÐ4.0L 6±Cylinder
Engine
1 - COIL RAIL
2 - COIL MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
3 - COIL
4 - COIL ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
8I - 10 IGNITION CONTROLWJ
COIL RAIL (Continued)

OPERATION
Battery voltage is supplied to the 8 ignition coils
from the ASD relay. The Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) opens and closes each ignition coil ground cir-
cuit at a determined time for ignition coil operation.
Base ignition timing is not adjustable.By con-
trolling the coil ground circuit, the PCM is able to set
the base timing and adjust the ignition timing
advance. This is done to meet changing engine oper-
ating conditions.
The ignition coil is not oil filled. The windings are
embedded in an epoxy compound. This provides heat
and vibration resistance that allows the ignition coil
to be mounted on the engine.
Because of coil design, spark plug cables (second-
ary cables) are not used.
REMOVAL
An individual ignition coil is used for each spark
plug (Fig. 18). The coil fits into machined holes in the
cylinder head. A mounting stud/nut secures each coil
to the top of the intake manifold (Fig. 19). The bot-
tom of the coil is equipped with a rubber boot to seal
the spark plug to the coil. Inside each rubber boot is
a spring. The spring is used for a mechanical contact
between the coil and the top of the spark plug. These
rubber boots and springs are a permanent part of the
coil and are not serviced separately. An o-ring (Fig.
18) is used to seal the coil at the opening into the cyl-
inder head.
(1) Depending on which coil is being removed, the
throttle body air intake tube or intake box may need
to be removed to gain access to coil.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector (Fig. 19) from
coil by pushing downward on release lock on top of
connector and pull connector from coil.
(3) Clean area at base of coil with compressed air
before removal.
(4) Remove coil mounting nut from mounting stud
(Fig. 19).
(5) Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head open-
ing with a slight twisting action.
(6) Remove coil from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or con-
taminants from around top of spark plug.
(2) Check condition of coil o-ring and replace as
necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to
coil o-ring.
(3) Position ignition coil into cylinder head opening
and push onto spark plug. Do this while guiding coil
base over mounting stud.
(4) Install mounting stud nut and tighten to 8 N´m
(70 in. lbs.) torque.(5) Connect electrical connector to coil by snapping
into position.
(6) If necessary, install throttle body air tube or
box.
Fig. 18 Ignition CoilÐ4.7L V±8
1 - O-RING
2 - IGNITION COIL
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 19 Ignition Coil
1 - IGNITION COIL
2 - COIL ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3 - COIL MOUNTING STUD/NUT
8I - 12 IGNITION CONTROLWJ
IGNITION COIL (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING Ð HEADLAMP
SYSTEM
HEADLAMPS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
HEADLAMPS ARE DIM
WITH ENGINE IDLING1. Loose or corroded battery cables. 1. Clean and secure battery cable clamps
and posts.
OR IGNITION TURNED
OFF2. Loose or worn generator drive belt. 2. Adjust or replace generator drive belt.
3. Charging system output too low. 3. Test and repair charging system, refer
to Electrical, Charging
4. Battery has insufficient charge. 4. Test battery state-of -charge, refer to
Electrical, Battery System.
5. Battery is sulfated or shorted. 5. Load test battery, refer to
Electrical,Battery System.
6. Poor lighting circuit Z1-ground. 6. Test for voltage drop across Z1-ground
locations, refer to Electrical, Wiring Digram
Information.
7. Both headlamp bulbs defective. 7. Replace both headlamp bulbs.
HEADLAMP BULBS BURN
OUT1. Charging system output too high. 1. Test and repair charging system, refer
to Electrical, Charging.
FREQUENTLY 2. Loose or corroded terminals or
splices in circuit.2. Inspect and repair all connectors and
splices, refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
HEADLAMPS ARE DIM
WITH ENGINE RUNNING1. Charging system output too low. 1. Test and repair charging system, refer
to Electrical, Wiring Information.
ABOVE IDLE* 2. Poor lighting circuit Z1-ground. 2. Test for voltage drop across Z1-ground
locations, refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
3. High resistance in headlamp
circuit.3. Test amperage draw of headlamp
circuit.
4. Both headlamp bulbs defective. 4. Replace both headlamp bulbs.
HEADLAMPS FLASH
RANDOMLY1. Poor lighting circuit Z1-ground. 1. Test for voltage drop across Z1-ground
locations, refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
2. High resistance in headlamp
circuit.2. Test amperage draw of headlamp
circuit. Should not exceed 30 amps.
3. Loose or corroded terminals or
splices in circuit.3. Inspect and repair all connectors and
splices, refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
HEADLAMPS DO NOT
ILLUMINATE1. No voltage to headlamps. 1. Repair open headlamp circuit, refer to
Electrical, Wiring Information.
2. No Z1-ground at headlamps. 2. Repair circuit ground, refer to Electrical,
Wiring Information.
8L - 12 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORWJ
HEADLAMP (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Faulty headlamp switch. 3. Refer to BCM diagnostics.
4. Blown fuse for headlamps. 4. Replace fuse refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
5. Broken connector terminal or wire
splice in headlamp circuit.5. Repair connector terminal or wire splice.
6. Both headlamp bulbs defective. 6. Replace both headlamp bulbs.
*Canada vehicles must have lamps ON.
FOG LAMP
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FOG LAMPS ARE DIM
WITH ENGINE IDLING
OR IGNITION TURNED
OFF.1. Loose or corroded battery cables. 1. Clean and secure battery cable clamps
and posts.
2. Loose or worn generator drive belt. 2. Adjust or replace generator drive belt.
3. Charging system output too low. 3. Test and repair charging system. Refer to
Electrical, Charging,
4. Battery has insufficient charge. 4. Test battery state-of -charge. Refer to
Electrical, Battery System.
5. Battery is sulfated or shorted. 5. Load test battery. Refer to Electrical,
Battery System.
6. Poor lighting circuit Z1-ground. 6. Test for voltage drop across Z1-ground
locations. Refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
FOG LAMP BULBS BURN
OUT FREQUENTLY1. Charging system output too high. 1. Test and repair charging system. Refer to
Electrical, Charging.
2. Loose or corroded terminals or
splices in circuit.2. Inspect and repair all connectors and
splices. Refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
FOG LAMPS ARE DIM
WITH ENGINE RUNNING
ABOVE IDLE1. Charging system output too low. 1. Test and repair charging system. Refer to
Electrical, Charging.
2. Poor lighting circuit Z1-ground. 2. Test for voltage drop across Z1-ground
locations. Refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
3. High resistance in fog lamp circuit. 3. Test amperage draw of fog lamp circuit.
FOG LAMPS FLASH
RANDOMLY1. Poor lighting circuit Z1-ground. 1. Test for voltage drop across Z1-ground
locations. Refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
2. High resistance in fog lamp circuit. 2. Test amperage draw of fog lamp circuit.
3. Faulty multifunction switch. 3. Refer to Electrical, Electronic Control
Modules.
4. Loose or corroded terminals or
splices in circuit.4. Inspect and repair all connectors and
splices. Refer to Electrical, Wiring
Information.
WJLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 13
HEADLAMP (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the power window switch to the rear
door trim panel switch receptacle.
(2) Press firmly and evenly on the back of the
power window switch until it snaps into rear door
trim panel switch receptacle.
(3) Install the trim panel onto the rear door. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/TRIM PANEL -
INSTALLATION) for the procedures.
(4) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
WINDOW MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
Power operated front and rear door windows are
standard equipment on this model. Each door has a
permanent magnet reversible electric motor with an
integral right angle gearbox mechanism that oper-
ates the window regulator. In addition, each power
window motor is equipped with an integral self-reset-
ting circuit breaker to protect the motor from over-
loads.
The power window motor gearbox housing is
secured to the window regulator drum housing with
screws. The window regulators used in all four doors
are single vertical post cable-and-drum type. A
molded plastic slider guided by the post is driven by
the regulator cables. The slider raises and lowers the
window glass through a steel lift plate attachment.
Front and rear glass channels within each door guide
and stabilize each end of the glass.
The power window motor and gearbox assembly
cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the
entire power window motor and gearbox unit must be
replaced. The window regulators are available for
service. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WIN-
DOW REGULATOR - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOORS - REAR/WINDOW REGULATOR -
REMOVAL) for the regulator service procedures.
OPERATION
A positive and negative battery connection to the
two motor terminals will cause the power window
motor to rotate in one direction. Reversing the cur-
rent through these same two connections will cause
the motor to rotate in the opposite direction.
When the power window motor operates, it rotates
the regulator cable drum through its gearbox. The
window regulator cable drum is connected through
two cables to the plastic slider on the vertical post.
As the cable drum rotates, it lets cable out on one
side of the drum, and takes cable in on the other side
of the drum. The changes in cable length move the
slider up or down the vertical post, raising or lower-
ing the window glass.If the window regulator or window glass bind,
encounter obstructions, or reach their travel limits it
overloads the power window motor. The overloading
condition causes the power window motor self-reset-
ting circuit breaker to open, which stops the motor
from running.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WINDOW MOTOR
Before you proceed with this diagnosis, confirm
proper switch operation. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES/DRIVER
DOOR MODULE - OPERATION) or (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/POWER WINDOWS/POWER WIN-
DOW SWITCH - OPERATION). For complete circuit
diagrams, refer to the appropriate wiring informa-
tion. The wiring information includes wiring dia-
grams, proper wire and connector repair procedures,
details of wire harness routing and retention, connec-
tor pin-out information and location views for the
various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
(1) Remove the trim panel from the door with the
inoperative power window. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL) or
(Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/TRIM PANEL -
REMOVAL) for the procedures.
(2) Disconnect the door wire harness connector
from the power window motor wire harness connec-
tor. Apply battery current to one cavity of the power
window motor wire harness connector, and apply
ground to the other cavity of the connector. The
power window motor should operate in one direction.
Remember, if the window is in the full up or full
down position, the motor will not operate in that
direction by design. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK,
replace the faulty power window motor.
(3) Reverse the battery and ground connections to
the two cavities of the power window motor wire har-
ness connector. The power window motor should now
operate in the other direction. Remember, if the win-
dow is in the full up or full down position, the motor
will not operate in that direction by design. If OK, go
to Step 4. If not OK, replace the faulty power window
motor.
(4) If the power window motor operates in both
directions, check the operation of the window glass
and regulator mechanism through its complete up
and down travel. There should be no binding or stick-
ing of the window glass or regulator mechanism
through the entire travel range. If not OK, (Refer to
23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WINDOW REGULATOR
- REMOVAL) or (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS -
REAR/WINDOW REGULATOR - REMOVAL) to
check for proper installation or damage of the win-
dow glass mounting and operating hardware.
8N - 38 POWER WINDOWSWJ
POWER WINDOW SWITCH (Continued)