front suspension JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G User Guide

SHOCK
DESCRIPTION
The top of the shock absorbers are bolted to the
body. The bottom of the shocks are bolted to the axle
brackets. The standard shocks have conventional
twin tube construction and are low pressure gas
charged. Gas charging prevents cavitation during
rough road operation. Up-Country shocks are mono
tube design and are high pressure gas charged.
OPERATION
The shock absorbers dampen jounce and rebound
motion of the vehicle over various road conditions
and limit suspension rebound travel.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the shock stud in the engine compartment (Fig. 8).
(2) Raise and support the front axle.
(3) Remove the lower mounting nuts from the axle
bracket (Fig. 9). Remove the shock absorber.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
shock stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
shock tower hole.
(2) Install the lower shock studs into the axle
bracket.
(3) Install the mounting nuts and tighten to 28
N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.(5) Install the upper grommet, retainer and nut on
the stud in the engine compartment. Hold the shock
stud witha8mmwrench and tighten the nut to 35
N´m (26 ft. lbs.).SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The coil springs mount up in the wheelhouse which
is part of the unitized body bracket. A rubber dough-
nut isolator is located between the top of the spring
and the body. The bottom of the spring seats on a
axle isolator made of rubber with a steel insert.
Fig. 7 Lower Suspension Arm
1 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - FRAME RAIL BRACKET
3 - AXLE BRACKET
Fig. 8 Upper Shock Mounting
1 - RETAINER
2 - STUD
3 - NUT
4 - GROMMET
Fig. 9 Lower Shock Mounting
1 - SHOCK ABSORBER
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - 12 FRONTWJ
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(6) Install the track bar to the axle bracket and
install the mounting bolt.
NOTE: It may be necessary to pry the axle assem-
bly over to install the track bar bolt.
(7) Remove the hydraulic jack from under the
vehicle.
(8) Tighten all suspension components to proper
torque.
(9) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(10) Remove support and lower vehicle.
STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
The bar extends across the front underside of the
chassis and is mounted to the frame rails. Links are
connected from the bar to the axle brackets. The sta-
bilizer bar and links are isolated by rubber bushings.
OPERATION
The stabilizer bar is used to control vehicle body
roll during turns. The spring steel bar helps to con-
trol the vehicle body in relationship to the suspen-
sion.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove link nuts and bolts (Fig. 13) and
remove the links.
(3) Remove the stabilizer bar retainer bolts (Fig.
13)from the frame rails and remove the stabilizer
bar.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the stabilizer bar on the frame rail
and install the retainers and bolts. Ensure the bar is
centered with equal spacing on both sides. Tighten
the bolts to 92 N´m (68 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the links onto the stabilizer bar and
axle brackets and install the bolts and nuts finger
tight.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) With the vehicle on the ground tighten the sta-
bilizer bar link nuts to 106 N´m (78 ft. lbs.).
TRACK BAR
DESCRIPTION
The bar is attached to a frame rail bracket and
axle bracket. The bar is forged and has non replace-
able isolator bushings at both ends.
OPERATION
The track bar is used to control front axle lateral
movement and provides cross car location of the axle
assembly.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket (Fig. 14).
(3) Remove the bolt from the axle shaft tube
bracket (Fig. 15). Remove the track bar.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the track bar to the axle tube bracket.
Install the retaining bolt finger tight.
Fig. 13 Stabilizer Bar
1 - LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - BUSHING
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 14 Track Bar Frame Rail Bracket
1 - FRAME RAIL
2 - TRACK BAR
2 - 14 FRONTWJ
SPRING (Continued)

UPPER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
The upper suspension arms are hydroformed steel
and use rubber bushings at each end of the arm.
OPERATION
The arms mount to the unibody frame rail bracket
and the axle brackets. The arm and bushings provide
location and react to loads from the axle. The bush-
ings provide isolation from the axle.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and support the axle.
(2) Remove the upper suspension arm mounting
nut and bolt (Fig. 17) from the axle bracket.(3) Remove the nut and bolt (Fig. 17) at the frame
rail and remove the upper suspension arm.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) With the vehicle on the ground tighten the axle
bracket nut and the frame bracket bolt to 61 N´m (45
ft. lbs.).
(5) Check the alignment if new parts were
installed.
Fig. 17 Upper Suspension Arm
1 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - FRAME BOLT
3 - AXLE BOLT
2 - 16 FRONTWJ

PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT
REMOVAL
NOTE: Different length propeller shafts are used for
different drivetrain applications. Ensure that the
correct propeller shaft is used.
(1) Place vehicle on floor or drive-on hoist with full
weight of vehicle on suspension.
(2) Shift the transmission and transfer case, if nec-
essary, into the Neutral position.
(3) Measure the distance from the face of the C/V
joint cup to the end of the C/V joint boot (Fig. 8).
(4) The correct length is 142.7 mm (5.61 in.).
NOTE: If the measurement is not correct, the wrong
shaft may have been installed or a mating compo-
nent (front axle or transfer case) may be installed
incorrectly. Investigate and correct as necessary.
(5) Mark a line across the companion flange at the
transfer case and C/V joint at the rear of the front
propeller shaft for installation reference.
(6) Mark a line across the C/V joints and the pin-
ion companion flanges for installation reference.
(7) Remove bolts from the front C/V joint to the
pinion companion flange.
(8) Remove bolts from the rear C/V joint to the
transfer case companion flange.
(9) Push the propeller shaft forward to clear trans-
fer case companion flange and remove the shaft.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Different length propeller shafts are used for
different drivetrain applications. Ensure that the
correct propeller shaft is used.
(1) Install the shaft between companion flanges.
(2) The shaft should rotate freely in the pinion
flange.
(3) Align marks on the companion flanges with the
marks on the C/V joints.
(4) Install bolts to the front C/V joint and tighten
bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the bolts to the rear C/V joint and
tighten bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(6) Verify propeller shaft length.
(7) Lower vehicle.
PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT
4.7L
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove crossmember/skid plate as necessary to
gain access to the propeller shaft.
(3) Shift transmission and transfer case, if neces-
sary into Neutral.
(4) Mark a line across the yoke at the transfer
case, link yoke and propeller shaft yoke at the rear of
the front propeller shaft for installation reference
(Fig. 9).
(5) Mark a line across the propeller shaft yoke and
pinion shaft yoke for installation reference.
Fig. 8 MEASUREMENT
1 - C/V JOINT CUP
2 - C/V BOOT END
3 - MEASUREMENT
Fig. 9 REFERENCE MARKS ON YOKES
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
3 - 6 PROPELLER SHAFTWJ

FRONT TUBE AXLE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT TUBE AXLE
REMOVAL.............................14INSTALLATION.........................14
FRONT TUBE AXLE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lifting device under the axle and
secure axle to lift.
(3) Remove the wheels and tires.
(4) Remove the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL)
and calipers.
(5) Disconnect wheel sensor wiring harness from
the vehicle wiring harness.
(6) Remove stabilizer bar links at the axle.
(7) Remove shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(8) Removet track bar.
(9) Remove tie rod and drag link from the steering
knuckle.
(10) Remove steering damper from the axle
bracket.
(11) Remove upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle brackets.
(12) Lower the lift enough to remove the axle. The
coil springs will drop with the axle.
(13) Remove the coil springs from the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners are tightened. If not at their nor-mal ride position, ride height and handling could be
affected.
(1) Install springs and retainer clips and tighten
retainer bolts to 21 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(2) Lift and position axle under the vehicle and
align it with the spring pads.
(3) Position upper and lower suspension arms in
the axle brackets and loosely install bolts and nuts.
(4) Install track bar to the axle bracket and loosely
install bolt.
(5) Install shock absorbers and tighten bolts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install stabilizer bar links to the axle brackets
and tighten nuts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles.
(8) Install steering damper to the axle bracket and
tighten nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the brake rotors and calipers.
(10) Connect wheel speed sensor wiring harness, if
equipped.
(11) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Remove lift from the axle and lower the vehi-
cle.
(13) Tighten upper suspension arm nuts to 75 N´m
(55 ft. lbs.). Tighten lower suspension arm nuts to
115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(14) Tighten track bar bolt at the axle bracket to
100 N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(15) Check the front wheel alignment.
3 - 14 FRONT TUBE AXLEWJ

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
VARI-LOKT
(1) Park the vehicle on a level surface or raise
vehicle on hoist so that the vehicle is level.
(2) Remove the axle fill plug.
(3) Verify that the axle fluid level is correct. The
fluid level is correct if the fluid is level with the bot-
tom of the fill hole.
(4) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD full-time
position.
(5) Drive the vehicle in a tight circle for 2 minutes
at 5mph to fully prime the pump.
(6) Block the tires opposite the axle to be tested to
prevent the vehicle from moving.
(7) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD Low posi-
tion and the transmission into the Park position.
(8) Raise both the wheels of the axle to be tested
off of the ground.
(9) Rotate the left wheel by hand at a minimum of
one revolution per second while an assistant rotates
the right wheel in the opposite direction.
(10) The left wheel should spin freely at first and
then increase in resistance within 5 revolutions until
the wheels cannot be continuously rotated in opposite
directions.
(11) The Vari-loktdifferential has engaged prop-
erly if the wheels cannot be rotated in opposite direc-
tions for a moment. After the wheels stop rotating for
a moment, the fluid pressure will drop in the differ-
ential and the wheels begin to rotate once again.
(12) If the system does not operate properly,
replace the Vari-loktdifferential.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the
axle.
(3) Secure axle to lift.
(4) Remove the wheels and tires.
(5) Remove the brake calipers and rotors (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS
- REMOVAL) from the axle.
(6) Disconnect the wheel sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness.
(7) Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft
tube.
(8) Mark propeller shaft and yoke/pinion flange for
installation alignment reference.
(9) Remove propeller shaft.
(10) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle.
(11) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brack-
ets.
(12) Disconnect track bar.
(13) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckle.
(14) Disconnect the steering damper from the axle
bracket.
(15) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle brackets.
(16) Lower the lifting device enough to remove the
axle. The coil springs will drop with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle.
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FBIWJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners can be tightened. If springs are
not at their normal ride position, ride height and
handling could be affected.
(1) Install the springs and retainer clips. Tighten
the retainer bolts to 21 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(2) Support the axle on a lifting device and posi-
tion axle under the vehicle.
(3) Raise the axle and align it with the spring
pads.
(4) Position the upper and lower suspension arms
in the axle brackets. Loosely install bolts and nuts to
hold suspension arms to the axle brackets.
(5) Install vent hose to the axle shaft tube.
(6) Install track bar in the axle bracket and install
the bolt loosely.
(7) Install shock absorbers and tighten the bolts to
23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install stabilizer bar links to the axle brackets
and tighten the nuts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles.
(10) Install steering damper to the axle bracket
and tighten the nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION) and calipers.
(12) Connect the wheel speed sensor wiring har-
ness to the vehicle wiring harness.
(13) Align the previously made marks on the pro-
peller shaft and the yoke/pinion flange.
(14) Install propeller shaft to pinion flange bolts ,
if equipped.
(15) Install propeller shaft to yoke straps and
bolts, if equipped.
(16) Check and fill axle lubricant.
(17) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(18) Remove the lifting device from the axle and
lower the vehicle.
(19) Tighten the upper suspension arm nuts to 75
N´m (55 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower suspension arm
nuts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(20) Tighten the track bar bolt at the axle bracket
to 100 N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(21) Check the front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched onto each gear (Fig. 3). A plus
(+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is etched
into the face of the pinion gear. This number is theamount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies
from the standard depth setting of a pinion etched
with a (0). The standard setting from the center line
of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion is 92.1
mm (3.625 in.). The standard depth provides the best
gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to Backlash and
Contact Pattern Analysis paragraph in this section
for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/oil slinger. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - DRIVE PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 4 ADJUSTMENT SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION DEPTH SHIM/OIL SLINGER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
3 - RING GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
5 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
WJFRONT AXLE - 186FBI 3 - 21
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)