o2 location JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual
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Page 1240 of 2199

ground at all times. If not OK, repair the open
ground circuit to ground as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the steering column opening cover
from the instrument panel. Refer toSteering Col-
umn Opening Coverin Body for the procedure.
(3) The power outlet / cigar lighter relay is located
on the left side of the combination flasher in the
junction block.
(4) Remove the power outlet / cigar lighter relay
from the junction block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the power outlet / cigar lighter relay in
the proper receptacle in the junction block.
(2) Align the power outlet / cigar lighter relay ter-
minals with the terminal cavities in the junction
block receptacle.
(3) Push in firmly on the power outlet / cigar
lighter relay until the terminals are fully seated in
the terminal cavities in the junction block receptacle.
(4) Install the steering column opening cover onto
the instrument panel. Refer toSteering Column
Opening Coverin Body for the procedure.
(5) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
IOD WIRE HARNESS
CONNECTOR
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off
Draw (IOD) connector that is located in a molded
connector receptacle on the lower rear surface of the
Junction Block (JB) housing (Fig. 17). The JB is con-
cealed above the molded plastic instrument panel
fuse cover. Integral latches molded into the fuse
cover secure it the JB, the Body Control Module
(BCM) and the 16-way data link connector tab of the
instrument panel steering column support bracket.
The fuse cover can be pulled downward to disengage
the latches and provide service access to all of the
fuses, relays and wire harness connectors of the JB.
Refer toInstrument Panel Fuse Coverin the
index of this service manual for the location of addi-
tional service information covering the fuse cover.
OPERATION
The term ignition-off draw identifies a normal con-
dition where power is being drained from the battery
with the ignition switch in the Off position. The IOD
connector feeds the memory and sleep mode func-
tions for some of the electronic modules in the vehicleas well as various other accessories that require bat-
tery current when the ignition switch is in the Off
position, including the clock.
The IOD connector can be used by the vehicle
owner as a convenient means of reducing battery
depletion when a vehicle is to be stored for periods
not to exceed about twenty days (short-term storage).
Simply disconnect the IOD connector from the JB
receptacle. However, it must be remembered that dis-
connecting the IOD connector will not eliminate IOD,
but only reduce this normal condition. When a vehi-
cle will not be used for more than twenty days, but
less than thirty days, remove the IOD fuse from the
Power Distribution Center (PDC). If a vehicle will be
stored for more than about thirty days, the battery
negative cable should be disconnected to eliminate
normal IOD; and, the battery should be tested and
recharged at regular intervals during the vehicle
storage period to prevent the battery from becoming
discharged or damaged. Refer toIgnition-Off Draw
Fig. 17 Ignition-Off Draw Connector
1 - SNAP CLIPS
2 - SCREW
3 - CONNECTOR
4 - LEFT BODY WIRE HARNESS
5 - IOD CONNECTOR
6 - FUSED B+ CONNECTOR
7 - RIGHT BODY WIRE HARNESS
8 - SCREW
9 - CONNECTOR
10 - JUNCTION BLOCK
WJ8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 15
POWER OUTLET RELAY (Continued)
Page 1241 of 2199

FuseandBatteryin the index in this service man-
ual for the location of additional service information
covering the ignition-off draw fuse and the battery.
FUSE COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Pull down on the rear edge (nearest the rear of
the vehicle) of the instrument panel fuse cover until
the rear latches unsnap from the tabs on the lower
junction block housing and the side latch unsnaps
from the tab on the instrument panel steering col-
umn support bracket outboard of the 16-way data
link connector (Fig. 18).
(3) Move the instrument panel fuse cover towards
the front of the vehicle to disengage the front latches
from the mounting slots in the lower housing of the
body control module.
(4) Remove the fuse cover from under the instru-
ment panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the two front latches of the instrument
panel fuse cover within the two locator channel for-
mations on the bottom of the body control module
housing (Fig. 19).
(2) While applying a slight upward pressure to the
instrument panel fuse cover over the front latches,
slowly slide the front latches through the locator
channels toward the front of the vehicle until thelatches exit the front of the locator channels. This
will locate the front latches at the mounting slots in
the lower housing of the body control module.
(3) Apply a slight rearward pressure on the instru-
ment panel fuse cover to engage the front latches in
the mounting slots in the lower housing of the body
control module.
(4) Swing the rear edge (nearest the rear of the
vehicle) of the instrument panel fuse cover up toward
the junction block.
(5) Press firmly upward on the instrument panel
fuse cover over the rear latches until the latches
snap into place over the tabs on the lower edge of the
junction block housing.
(6) Press firmly upward on the 16-way data link
connector cover formation of the instrument panel
fuse cover until the side latch snaps into place over
the tab on the outboard side of the instrument panel
steering column support bracket.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
REAR POWER OUTLET
DESCRIPTION - REAR POWER OUTLET
A rear accessory power outlet is optional equip-
ment on this model. The rear power outlet is
installed in the lower right quarter trim panel near
the right liftgate opening pillar in the cargo area of
Fig. 18 Instrument Panel Fuse Cover Remove/Install
1 - REAR LATCHES
2 - JUNCTION BLOCK AND BODY CONTROL MODULE UNIT
3 - INSTRUMENT PANEL FUSE COVER
4 - SIDE LATCH
5 - FRONT LATCHES
Fig. 19 Instrument Panel Fuse Cover Locator
Channels
1 - JUNCTION BLOCK
2 - SCREWS (4)
3 - BODY CONTROL MODULE
4 - FUSE COVER LOCATOR CHANNELS
5 - FUSE COVER MOUNTING SLOTS
6 - INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRE HARNESS CONNECTORS
8W - 97 - 16 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONWJ
IOD WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR (Continued)
Page 1242 of 2199

the vehicle. The power outlet base and mount are
secured by a snap fit within the quarter trim panel.
A plastic protective cap snaps into the power outlet
base when the power outlet is not being used, and
hangs from the power outlet base mount by an inte-
gral bail strap while the power outlet is in use. While
the power outlet is very similar to a cigar lighter
base unit, it does not include the two small spring-
clip retainers inside the bottom of the receptacle
shell that are used to secure the cigar lighter heating
element to the insulated contact.
The power outlet receptacle unit and the accessory
power outlet protective cap are available for service.
The power outlet receptacle cannot be repaired and,
if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION - REAR POWER OUTLET
The power outlet base or receptacle shell is con-
nected to ground, and an insulated contact in the
bottom of the shell is connected to battery current.
The power outlet receives battery voltage from a fuse
in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) through a
fuse in the Junction Block (JB) at all times. Refer to
Horn/Cigar Lighter/Power Outletin Wiring Dia-
grams for the location of complete rear power outlet
circuit diagrams.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR POWER
OUTLET
Refer toHorn/Cigar Lighter/Power Outletin
Wiring Diagrams for the location of complete rear
power outlet circuit diagrams.
(1) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the Junction
Block (JB). If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the
shorted circuit or component as required and replace
the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the JB. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the
open fused B(+) circuit to the Power Distribution
Center (PDC) as required.
(3) Remove the plastic protective cap from the rear
power outlet receptacle. Check for continuity between
the inside circumference of the rear power outlet
receptacle and a good ground. There should be conti-
nuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(4) Check for battery voltage at the insulated con-
tact located at the back of the rear power outlet
receptacle. If not OK, go to Step 5.(5) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the rear power outlet from the right
quarter trim panel. Check for continuity between the
ground circuit cavity of the rear power outlet wire
harness connector and a good ground. There should
be continuity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair
the open ground circuit to ground as required.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable. Check for
battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the
rear power outlet wire harness connector. If OK,
replace the faulty rear power outlet receptacle base.
If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the
JB fuse as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Pull the protective cap out of the rear power
outlet receptacle base (Fig. 20).
Fig. 20 Rear Power Outlet Remove/Install
1 - RIGHT QUARTER TRIM PANEL
2 - RIGHT BODY WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
3 - RECEPTACLE BASE
4 - PROTECTIVE CAP
5 - MOUNT
WJ8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 17
REAR POWER OUTLET (Continued)
Page 1246 of 2199

²6th & 7th DigitsÐThe day of engine build (01 -
31).(1)FOR EXAMPLE:Code * 801MX12 * identifies
a 4.0 Liter (242 CID) engine with a multi-point fuel
injection system, 8.7:1 compression ratio and built on
January 12, 1998.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING - Preformance) or (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAG-
NOSIS AND TESTING - Mechanical). Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM for fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
²Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
²Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFT-
ERS (CAM IN BLOCK) - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)
Fig. 1 Engine Firing Order
Fig. 2 Build Date Code Location
1 - YEAR
2 - MONTH
3-DAY
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 3
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1252 of 2199

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1253 of 2199

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1254 of 2199

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for
alignment reference during installation. Remove the
engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(6) Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts
and remove radiator support.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 4 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1255 of 2199

(7) Remove the fan assembly from the water pump
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud.
(9) Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines
(automatic transmission).
(10) Discharge the A/C system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove the service valves and cap the com-
pressor ports.
(12) Remove the radiator or radiator/condenser (if
equipped with A/C).
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine
thermostat housing and water pump.
(14) Disconnect the accelerator cable, transmission
line pressure cable and speed control cable (if
equipped) from the throttle body.
(15) Remove cables from the bracket and secure
out of the way.
(16) Disconnect the body ground at the engine.
(17) Disconnect the following connectors and
secure their harness out of the way.
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(18) Disconnect the coil rail electrical connections
and the oil pressure switch connector.
(19) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the injector
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(21) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(22) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Fig. 5).
(23) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(24) Drain the pump reservoir.
(25) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the sys-
tem.
(26) Raise and support the vehicle.
(27) Disconnect the wires from the engine starter
motor solenoid.(28) Remove the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
REMOVAL).
(29) Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the
exhaust pipe.
(30) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(31) Remove the exhaust pipe support.
(32) Remove the bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
REMOVAL).
(33) Remove the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(34) Mark the converter and drive plate location.
(35) Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(36) Remove the upper engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(37) Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(38) Lower the vehicle.
(39) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(40) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(41) Place a support or floor jack under the con-
verter (or engine flywheel) housing.
(42) Remove the remaining converter (or engine
flywheel) housing bolts.
(43) Lift the engine out of the engine compart-
ment.
Fig. 5 Air Cleaner Assembly
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP
2 - AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
9 - 12 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1270 of 2199

INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or
excessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessively
worn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for
obstruction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
in or out of the vehicle.
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
MopartEngine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and
install push rods in their original locations. Ensurethat the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using MopartEngine Oil Supplement, or
equivalent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that
the pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and
bridge above each cylinder in their originally position
(Fig. 23).
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alter-
nately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals (Fig. 24) are made of rubber
and incorporate a garter spring to maintain consis-
tent lubrication control.
Fig. 22 Rocker Arm
1 - CAPSCREWS
2 - BRIDGE
3 - PIVOT ASSEMBLY
4 - PUSH RODS
5 - ROCKER ARMS
Fig. 23 Rocker Arm
1 - CAPSCREWS
2 - BRIDGE
3 - PIVOT ASSEMBLY
4 - PUSH RODS
5 - ROCKER ARMS
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 27
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY (Continued)
Page 1272 of 2199

(2) Remove cap screws, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
REMOVAL) for access to each valve spring to be
removed.
(3) Remove push rods.Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same
order and position as removed.
(4) Inspect the springs and retainer for cracks and
possible signs of weakening.
(5) Remove the spark plug(s) adjacent to the cylin-
der(s) below the valve springs to be removed.
(6) Connect an air hose to the adapter and apply
air pressure slowly. Maintain at least 621 kPa (90
psi) of air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves
against their seats. For vehicles equipped with an air
conditioner, use a flexible air adaptor when servicing
the No.1 cylinder.
(7) Tap the retainer or tip with a rawhide hammer
to loosen the lock from the retainer. Use Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A to compress the spring
and remove the locks (Fig. 27).
(8) Remove valve spring and retainer (Fig. 27).
(9) Remove valve stem oil seals (Fig. 27). Note the
valve seals are different for intake and exhaust
valves. The top of each seal is marked either INT
(intake/black in color) or EXH (exhaust/brown in
color). DO NOT mix the seals.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
cylinder head installed on the block.
CAUTION: Install oil seals carefully to prevent dam-
age from the sharp edges of the valve spring lock
grove.
(1) Lightly push the valve seal over the valve stem
and valve guide boss. Be sure the seal is completely
seated on the valve guide boss.
(2) Install valve spring and retainer (Fig. 28).
(3) Compress the valve spring with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A and insert the valve
locks. Release the spring tension and remove the
tool. Tap the spring from side-to-side to ensure that
the spring is seated properly on the engine cylinder
head.(4) Release air pressure and disconnect the air
hose. Remove the adaptor from the spark plug hole
and install the spark plug.
(5) Repeat the procedures for each remaining valve
spring to be removed.
(6) Install the push rods. Ensure the bottom end of
each rod is centered in the plunger cap seat of the
hydraulic valve tappet.
(7) Install the rocker arms, pivots and bridge
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION) at their
original location.
(8) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 27 Valve and Valve Components
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 29
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)