check engine JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Manual PDF

(4) Remove the six plastic nuts (2 short and 4
long) that secure the cowl grille cover to the studs on
the cowl top panel near the base of the windshield
(Fig. 3).
(5) Lift the left end of the cowl grille cover off of
the cowl plenum panel far enough to access the front
washer plumbing.
(6) Disconnect the engine compartment washer
hose from the cowl grille cover washer hose at the
plastic elbow connector.
(7) Remove the cowl grille cover from the cowl ple-
num and cowl top panels through the opening
between the hood and the base of the windshield.
(8) From the underside of the cowl grille cover, dis-
connect the washer hoses from the three barbed nip-
ples of the wye fitting/check valve unit.
(9) Remove the wye fitting/check valve unit from
the underside of the cowl grille cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the wye fitting/check valve unit to the
underside of the cowl grille cover.
(2) From the underside of the cowl grille cover,
reconnect the three washer hoses to the barbed nip-
ples of the wye fitting/check valve unit.
(3) Reinstall the washer hoses for the front washer
nozzles into their routing clips on the underside of
the cowl grille cover.
(4) Position the cowl grille cover onto the cowl ple-
num and cowl top panels through the opening
between the hood and the base of the windshield
(Fig. 3).(5) Lift the left end of the cowl grille cover off of
the cowl plenum panel far enough to access the front
washer plumbing.
(6) Reconnect the cowl grille cover washer hose to
the engine compartment washer hose at the elbow
connector.
(7) Install the six plastic nuts that secure the cowl
grille cover to the studs on the cowl top panel near
the base of the windshield. These nuts are to be
installed by pushing them onto the studs in the fol-
lowing sequence:
(a) First, install the short nuts to the third stud
from the right, then the second stud from the left.
(b) Next, install the long nuts to the right out-
board stud, then the left outboard stud.
(c) Finally, install the two remaining long nuts
to the third stud from the left, then the second
stud from the right.
(8) Starting at the ends and working toward the
center, push the hood to plenum seal onto the for-
ward flanges of the cowl grille cover and the plenum
panel.
(9) Reinstall the wiper arms onto the wiper pivots.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/FRONT WIPERS/WASH-
ERS/FRONT WIPER ARMS - INSTALLATION).
(10) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
FRONT WASHER HOSES/
TUBES
DESCRIPTION
The front washer plumbing consists of a small
diameter rubber hose that is routed from the barbed
outlet nipple of the front washer pump/motor on the
washer reservoir along the filler neck into the engine
compartment. In the engine compartment, a molded
plastic in-line fitting with barbed nipples joins the
washer hose to another section of hose that is routed
near the left headlamp and dash wire harness to the
cowl plenum area. The engine compartment washer
hose passes from the engine compartment into the
cowl plenum area through a dedicated hole with a
rubber grommet near the left end of the cowl plenum
panel. A molded plastic elbow fitting with barbed nip-
ples joins the engine compartment hose to the cowl
grille cover hose. The cowl grille cover washer hose is
routed through routing clips on the underside of the
cowl grille cover to a molded plastic wye fitting with
barbed nipples and an integral check valve. The cowl
grille cover hose is connected to one nipple on the
wye fitting and the two washer nozzle hoses are con-
nected to the other two wye fitting nipples. The
washer nozzle hoses are routed along the underside
of the cowl grille cover to the two washer nozzles.
Fig. 3 Cowl Grille Cover Remove/Install
1 - WASHER HOSE CONNECTION
2 - STUDS (6)
3 - COWL GRILLE COVER
4 - PLASTIC NUT (6)
8R - 10 FRONT WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
FRONT CHECK VALVE (Continued)

CAL/REAR WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING). If
after cleaning the wiper blade and the glass, the
wiper blade fails to clear the glass without smearing,
streaking, chattering, hazing, or beading, replace the
wiper blade. Also, if a wiper blade is damaged or if
the squeegee rubber is damaged or deteriorated,
replace the wiper blade with a new unit. Do not
attempt to repair a wiper blade that is damaged.
WASHER SYSTEM
The washer system components should be
inspected periodically, not just when washer perfor-
mance problems are experienced. This inspection
should include the following points:
(1) Check for ice or other foreign material in the
washer reservoir. If contaminated, clean and flush
the washer system. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
REAR WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING).
(2) Inspect the washer plumbing for pinched, leak-
ing, deteriorated, or incorrectly routed hoses and
damaged or disconnected hose fittings. Replace dam-
aged or deteriorated hoses and hose fittings. Leaking
washer hoses can sometimes be repaired by cutting
the hose at the leak and splicing it back togetherusing an in-line connector fitting. Similarly, sections
of deteriorated hose can be cut out and replaced by
splicing in new sections of hose using in-line connec-
tor fittings. Whenever routing a washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts. Also,
sharp bends that might pinch the washer hose must
be avoided.
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer plumbing consists of small diam-
eter rubber hoses and molded plastic inline connector
fittings (Fig. 2). The washer reservoir hose is con-
nected to the barbed outlet nipple of the rear washer
pump/motor unit below the left front wheel house
extension and routed up the washer reservoir filler
neck to the engine compartment. Just rearward of
the washer reservoir filler neck in the engine com-
partment, an inline connector with barbed nipples
joins the reservoir hose to the engine compartment
hose. The engine compartment hose is routed along
the top of the left front fender wheel house to the
dash panel. The engine compartment hose passes
through a hole with a rubber grommet in the dash
panel into the passenger compartment. Below the
instrument panel in the passenger compartment near
the left cowl side inner panel, another inline connec-
tor joins the engine compartment hose to the A-pillar
hose. The A-pillar hose is routed up the left A-pillar
to the headliner. At the headliner, an inline connector
joins the A-pillar hose to the headliner hose. The
headliner hose is routed above the headliner and
Fig. 1 Wiper Blade Inspection
1 - WORN OR UNEVEN EDGES
2 - ROAD FILM OR FOREIGN MATERIAL DEPOSITS
3 - HARD, BRITTLE, OR CRACKED
4 - DEFORMED OR FATIGUED
5 - SPLIT
6 - DAMAGED SUPPORT COMPONENTS
Fig. 2 Rear Washer Plumbing
1 - UPPER COWL PLENUM PANEL
2 - WASHER HOSE FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT
3 - A-PILLAR WASHER HOSE
4 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
8R - 38 REAR WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
REAR WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)

DESCRIPTION - CONNECTOR, GROUND AND
SPLICE INFORMATION
CAUTION: Not all connectors are serviced. Some
connectors are serviced only with a harness. A typ-
ical example might be the Supplemental Restraint
System connectors. Always check parts availability
before attempting a repair.
IDENTIFICATION
In-line connectors are identified by a number, as
follows:
²In-line connectors located in the engine compart-
ment are C100 series numbers
²In-line connectors located in the Instrument
Panel area are C200 series numbers.
²In-line connectors located in the body are C300
series numbers.
²Jumper harness connectors are C400 series
numbers.
²Grounds and ground connectors are identified
with a ªGº and follow the same series numbering as
the in-line connectors.
²Splices are identified with an ªSº and follow the
same series numbering as the in-line connectors.
²Component connectors are identified by the com-
ponent name instead of a number. Multiple connec-
tors on a component use a C1, C2, etc. identifier.
LOCATIONS
Section 8W-91 contains connector/ground/splice
location illustrations. The illustrations contain the
connector name (or number)/ground number/splice
number and component identification. Connector/
ground/splice location charts in section 8W-91 refer-
ence the figure numbers of the illustrations.
The abbreviation T/O is used in the component
location section to indicate a point in which the wir-
ing harness branches out to a component. The abbre-
viation N/S means Not Shown in the illustrations
WARNING
WARNINGS - GENERAL
WARNINGSprovide information to prevent per-
sonal injury and vehicle damage. Below is a list of
general warnings that should be followed any time a
vehicle is being serviced.
WARNING: ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR
EYE PROTECTION.
WARNING: USE SAFETY STANDS ANYTIME A PRO-
CEDURE REQUIRES BEING UNDER A VEHICLE.WARNING: BE SURE THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH
ALWAYS IS IN THE OFF POSITION, UNLESS THE
PROCEDURE REQUIRES IT TO BE ON.
WARNING: SET THE PARKING BRAKE WHEN
WORKING ON ANY VEHICLE. AN AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE IN PARK. A MANUAL
TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE IN NEUTRAL.
WARNING: OPERATE THE ENGINE ONLY IN A
WELL-VENTILATED AREA.
WARNING: KEEP AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS
WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, ESPECIALLY THE
FAN AND BELTS.
WARNING: TO PREVENT SERIOUS BURNS, AVOID
CONTACT WITH HOT PARTS SUCH AS THE RADIA-
TOR, EXHAUST MANIFOLD(S), TAIL PIPE, CATA-
LYTIC CONVERTER AND MUFFLER.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW FLAME OR SPARKS
NEAR THE BATTERY. GASES ARE ALWAYS
PRESENT IN AND AROUND THE BATTERY.
WARNING: ALWAYS REMOVE RINGS, WATCHES,
LOOSE HANGING JEWELRY AND AVOID LOOSE
CLOTHING.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIRING HARNESS
TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS
When diagnosing a problem in an electrical circuit
there are several common tools necessary. These tools
are listed and explained below.
²Jumper Wire - This is a test wire used to con-
nect two points of a circuit. It can be used to bypass
an open in a circuit.
WARNING: NEVER USE A JUMPER WIRE ACROSS
A LOAD, SUCH AS A MOTOR, CONNECTED
BETWEEN A BATTERY FEED AND GROUND.
²Voltmeter - Used to check for voltage on a cir-
cuit. Always connect the black lead to a known good
ground and the red lead to the positive side of the
circuit.
CAUTION: Most of the electrical components used
in today's vehicles are Solid State. When checking
voltages in these circuits, use a meter with a 10 -
megohm or greater impedance rating.
WJ8W-01 WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION 8W - 01 - 7
WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION (Continued)

PDC LOWER COVER INSTALLATION
(1) Align the PDC housing lower cover on the bot-
tom of the PDC.
(2) Evenly press the lower cover into place until
latches are fully engaged.
(3) Where the right headlamp and dash harness
enters the PDC, tape the harness securely to the
trough formation on the PDC lower cover.
(4) Install the PDC in its mounting location on the
battery support.
(5) Install the battery wire harness over the two
PDC B+ terminal studs. Torque the nuts to 11.3 N´m
(100 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the battery. Refer to Battery System for
the procedure.
(7) Install the PDC cover.
INSTALLATION
The Power Distribution Center (PDC) main hous-
ing unit, the PDC fuse wedges and the PDC bus bars
cannot be repaired and are only serviced as a unit
with the right headlamp and dash wire harness. If
the PDC main housing unit, the fuse wedges or the
bus bars are faulty or damaged, the entire PDC and
right headlamp and dash wire harness unit must be
replaced.
(1) Position the PDC and the right headlamp and
dash wire harness unit in the engine compartment.
(2) Engage the PDC housing mounts with the
stanchions of the battery support and push the unit
downward until the mount latches fully engage the
mounting tabs on the stanchions.
(3) Install the two-holed eyelet of the battery wire
harness PDC take outs onto the two PDC B(+) termi-
nal studs.
(4) Install and tighten the nuts that secure the
eyelet of the battery wire harness PDC take outs to
the B(+) terminal studs. Tighten the nuts to 11.3
N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(5) Engage each of the retainers that secure the
right headlamp and dash wire harness to the vehicle
body and chassis components. Refer toConnector
Locationsin Wiring Diagrams for the location of
more information on the right headlamp and dash
wire harness retainer locations.
(6) Install all of the fasteners that secure each of
the right headlamp and dash wire harness ground
eyelets to the vehicle body and chassis components.
Refer toConnector Locationsin Wiring Diagrams
for the location of more information on the ground
eyelet locations.
(7) Reconnect each of the right headlamp and dash
wire harness connectors. Refer toConnector Loca-
tionsin Wiring Diagrams for the location of more
information on the right headlamp and dash wire
harness connector locations. For connectors securedwith screws, tighten the screws to 4.3 N´m (38 in.
lbs.).
(8) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
POWER OUTLET
DESCRIPTION - FRONT POWER OUTLET
An accessory power outlet is standard equipment
on this model. The power outlet is installed in the
instrument panel center lower bezel, which is located
near the bottom of the instrument panel center stack
area, below the heater and air conditioner controls.
The power outlet base is secured by a snap fit within
the center lower bezel. A hinged door with an over-
center spring flips closed to conceal and protect the
power outlet base when the power outlet is not being
used, and flips open below the center lower bezel
while the power outlet is in use.
The power outlet receptacle unit and the power
outlet door are each available for service replace-
ment.
OPERATION - FRONT POWER OUTLET
The power outlet base or receptacle shell is con-
nected to ground, and an insulated contact in the
bottom of the shell is connected to battery current.
The power outlet receives battery voltage from a fuse
in the junction block at all times.
While the power outlet is very similar to a cigar
lighter base unit, it does not include the two small
spring-clip retainers inside the bottom of the recepta-
cle shell that are used to secure the cigar lighter
heating element to the insulated contact.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER OUTLET
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toHorn/Ci-
gar Lighter/Power Outletin Wiring Diagrams.
WARNING: REFER TO RESTRAINTS BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE
PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCI-
DENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE
PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block.
If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted cir-
cuit or component as required and replace the faulty
fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK,
repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the Power Dis-
tribution Center (PDC) fuse as required.
(3) Open the power outlet door. Check for continu-
ity between the inside circumference of the power
8W - 97 - 12 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONWJ
POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
ENGINE PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK 1. Weak or dead battery 1. Charge/Replace Battery. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY
SYSTEM/BATTERY - STANDARD
PROCEDURE), for correct
procedures. Check charging system.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), for correct procedures.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections2. Clean/tighten suspect battery/
starter connections
3. Faulty starter or related circuit(s) 3. Check starting system. (Refer to 8
- ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), for
correct diagnostics/procedures
4. Siezed accessory drive
component4. Remove accessory drive belt and
attempt to start engine. If engine
starts, repair/replace siezed
component.
5. Engine internal mechanical failure
or hydro-static lock5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), for
correct diagnostics/procedures
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL
NOT START1. No spark 1. Check for spark. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL -
SPECIFICATIONS), for correct
procedures.
2. No fuel 2. Perform fuel pressure test (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), and if
necessary, inspect fuel injector(s) and
driver circuits. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL
INJECTOR - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), for correct procedures.
3. Low or no engine compression 3. Perform cylinder compression
pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Worn or burned distributor rotor 1. Install new distributor rotor
2. Worn camshaft position sensor
shaft2. Remove and repair camshaft
position sensor.(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel
filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition coil rail 11. Test and replace, as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL).
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH
IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and
de-carbon. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - REMOVAL) for
correct procedure.
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit.
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING)
4. Faulty coil rail 4. Test and replace, if necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
5. Intake manifold vacuum leak 5. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses. Replace if necessary.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/
INTAKE MANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs1. Replace spark plugs or clean and
set gap.
2. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed2. Replace spark plug cables.
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil rail 5. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 5
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐ ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust
oil level by draining or adding as
needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
engine oil pressure test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/
lash adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms
and replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and
replace as necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats or
valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) engine
oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
correct procedure/engine oil
specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod bearing
clearanceMeasure bearings for correct
clearance with plasti-gage. Repair as
necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of
round5. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
9 - 6 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace
crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean
and reinstall
8. Oil pump suction tube loose,
broken, bent or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or
replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup
plug4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon
piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 7
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder CYLINDER COMBUSTION
PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 8 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)