oil pressure JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

SHOCK
DESCRIPTION
The top of the shock absorbers are bolted to the
body. The bottom of the shocks are bolted to the axle
brackets. The standard shocks have conventional
twin tube construction and are low pressure gas
charged. Gas charging prevents cavitation during
rough road operation. Up-Country shocks are mono
tube design and are high pressure gas charged.
OPERATION
The shock absorbers dampen jounce and rebound
motion of the vehicle over various road conditions
and limit suspension rebound travel.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the shock stud in the engine compartment (Fig. 8).
(2) Raise and support the front axle.
(3) Remove the lower mounting nuts from the axle
bracket (Fig. 9). Remove the shock absorber.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
shock stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
shock tower hole.
(2) Install the lower shock studs into the axle
bracket.
(3) Install the mounting nuts and tighten to 28
N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.(5) Install the upper grommet, retainer and nut on
the stud in the engine compartment. Hold the shock
stud witha8mmwrench and tighten the nut to 35
N´m (26 ft. lbs.).SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The coil springs mount up in the wheelhouse which
is part of the unitized body bracket. A rubber dough-
nut isolator is located between the top of the spring
and the body. The bottom of the spring seats on a
axle isolator made of rubber with a steel insert.
Fig. 7 Lower Suspension Arm
1 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - FRAME RAIL BRACKET
3 - AXLE BRACKET
Fig. 8 Upper Shock Mounting
1 - RETAINER
2 - STUD
3 - NUT
4 - GROMMET
Fig. 9 Lower Shock Mounting
1 - SHOCK ABSORBER
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - 12 FRONTWJ
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
VARI-LOKT
(1) Park the vehicle on a level surface or raise
vehicle on hoist so that the vehicle is level.
(2) Remove the axle fill plug.
(3) Verify that the axle fluid level is correct. The
fluid level is correct if the fluid is level with the bot-
tom of the fill hole.
(4) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD full-time
position.
(5) Drive the vehicle in a tight circle for 2 minutes
at 5mph to fully prime the pump.
(6) Block the tires opposite the axle to be tested to
prevent the vehicle from moving.
(7) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD Low posi-
tion and the transmission into the Park position.
(8) Raise both the wheels of the axle to be tested
off of the ground.
(9) Rotate the left wheel by hand at a minimum of
one revolution per second while an assistant rotates
the right wheel in the opposite direction.
(10) The left wheel should spin freely at first and
then increase in resistance within 5 revolutions until
the wheels cannot be continuously rotated in opposite
directions.
(11) The Vari-loktdifferential has engaged prop-
erly if the wheels cannot be rotated in opposite direc-
tions for a moment. After the wheels stop rotating for
a moment, the fluid pressure will drop in the differ-
ential and the wheels begin to rotate once again.
(12) If the system does not operate properly,
replace the Vari-loktdifferential.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the
axle.
(3) Secure axle to lift.
(4) Remove the wheels and tires.
(5) Remove the brake calipers and rotors (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS
- REMOVAL) from the axle.
(6) Disconnect the wheel sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness.
(7) Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft
tube.
(8) Mark propeller shaft and yoke/pinion flange for
installation alignment reference.
(9) Remove propeller shaft.
(10) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle.
(11) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brack-
ets.
(12) Disconnect track bar.
(13) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckle.
(14) Disconnect the steering damper from the axle
bracket.
(15) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle brackets.
(16) Lower the lifting device enough to remove the
axle. The coil springs will drop with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle.
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FBIWJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

CAUTION: Boot must not be dimpled, stretched or
out of shape in any way. If not shaped correctly,
equalize pressure in boot and shape it by hand.
(5) Install the two boot clamps.
(6) Crimp the boot clamps with Clamp Installer
C-4975A. Place clamp tool over bridge of clamp (Fig.
26).
(7) Tighten nut on the tool until jaws on tool are
closed completely together (Fig. 27) and (Fig. 28).
(8) Install the axle shaft.
AXLE - U-JOINT
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Clamp only the narrow forged portion of
the yoke in the vise. Do not over tighten the vise
jaws, to avoid distorting the yoke.
(1) Remove axle shaft.
(2) Remove the bearing cap retaining snap rings
(Fig. 29).
NOTE: Saturate the bearing caps with penetrating
oil prior to removal.
(3) Locate a socket with an inside diameter is
larger than the bearing cap. Place the socket (receiv-
er) against the yoke and around the perimeter of the
bearing cap to be removed.
(4) Locate a socket with an outside diameter is
smaller than the bearing cap. Place the socket (driv-
er) against the opposite bearing cap.
(5) Position the yoke with the sockets in a vise
(Fig. 30).
(6) Tighten the vise jaws to force the bearing cap
into the larger socket (receiver).
(7) Release the vise jaws. Remove the sockets and
bearing cap that was partially forced out of the yoke.
(8) Repeat the above procedure for the remaining
bearing cap and remove spider from the propeller
shaft yoke.
Fig. 26 CRIMPING TOOL
1 - INSTALLER
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - CLAMP
4 - SEALING BOOT
Fig. 27 SMALL BOOT CLAMP
1 - CLAMP
2 - INSTALLER
3 - AXLE SHAFT
4 - SEALING BOOT
Fig. 28 LARGE BOOT CLAMP
1 - CLAMP TOOL
2 - SEALING BOOT
3 - OUTER C/V JOINT
4 - BOOT CLAMP
3 - 36 FRONT AXLE - 186FBIWJ
AXLE - C/V JOINT (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder with
reservoir, caliper seals, HCU and all hydraulic fluid
hoses.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove reservoir cap and remove fluid with a
cleansuction gun.
(2) Remove the wire connector from the brake fluid
level sensor.
(3) Insert the tool (Fig. 47) provided with the res-
ervoir to release the reservoir retaining tabs.
(4) Pull the reservoir straight up out of the cylin-
der.
(5) Remove and discard grommets from the cylin-
der body.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake
fluid. Install new grommets into the cylinder body.
CAUTION: Do not use tools to install the grommets.
Tools may cut, or tear the grommets. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.(2) Start reservoir in grommets then press the res-
ervoir straight down to seat the reservoir into the
cylinder grommets.
CAUTION: Do not rock the reservoir during installa-
tion.
(3) Verify retaining tabs are seated.
(4) Install the wire connector to the brake fluid
level sensor.
(5) Fill master cylinder.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder body is made of aluminum
and contains a primary and secondary piston assem-
bly. The cylinder body including the piston assem-
blies are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an
internal problem with the cylinder body, it must be
replaced as an assembly. The master cylinder has a
removable reservoir and fluid level indicator. The res-
ervoir, reservoir grommets, reservoir cap and fluid
level switch are the only replaceable parts on the
master cylinder.
Fig. 47 Release Tool
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - RELEASE TOOL
3 - RETAINING TABS
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
FLUID (Continued)

COOLING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L
ENGINE..............................1
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
ROUTING 4.7L ENGINE..................1
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM 4.0L
ENGINE..............................1
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM
ROUTING 4.0L ENGINE..................1
DESCRIPTIONÐHOSE CLAMPS...........1
OPERATION
OPERATIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM.........2
OPERATIONÐHOSE CLAMPS............2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)...................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐPRELIMINARY
CHECKS.............................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART.............5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM LEAKS......................10DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM DEAERATION.................12
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE.........12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE.........12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM - 4.0L ENGINE........13
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM - 4.0L ENGINE........13
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT.................13
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING
SYSTEM - REVERSE FLUSHING..........14
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE............................14
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING...........................15
ACCESSORY DRIVE......................16
ENGINE...............................24
TRANSMISSION.........................55
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L
ENGINE
The cooling system consists of the following items:
²Hydraulic cooling fan and fan drive assembly
²Radiator
²Power steering oil cooler
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an
automatic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM ROUTING
4.7L ENGINE
For cooling system routing refer to (Fig. 1).
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM 4.0L
ENGINE
The cooling system consists of:
²A radiator
²Mechanical Cooling Fan
²Thermal viscous fan drive-Low disengaged
²Fan shroud (Fig. 2)
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an
automatic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
²Accessory drive belt
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM ROUTING
4.0L ENGINE
For cooling system routing refer to (Fig. 3).
DESCRIPTIONÐHOSE CLAMPS
The cooling system utilizes both worm drive and
spring type hose clamps. If a spring type clamp
WJCOOLING 7 - 1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. Refer to (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for On-Board
Diagnostics and DTC information. Replace
thermostat if necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor connector.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
DESCRIPTION). Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank and the radiator.
Inspect system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH OR THE
COOLANT LAMP
ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY
NOT BE LOST OR
LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep hill
is being climbed, vehicle is operated
in slow moving traffic, or engine is
being idled with very high ambient
(outside) temperatures and the air
conditioning is on. Higher altitudes
could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary condition and
repair is not necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the vehicle
without any of the previous conditions.
Observe the temperature gauge. The gauge
should return to the normal range. If the
gauge does not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating and
repair.
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to Group 8J -
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation. (Refer to
Group 8J - INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).Repair
as necessary.
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer to
the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
WJCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS (Fig. 7) OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling sys-
tem can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the
radiator upper hose inlet housing. (Fig. 8)Fill system
using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begains
coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and
install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the
reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as neces-
sary.Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion.To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add neces-
sary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.
Fig. 7 Drain PlugÐ4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
7 - 12 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

INSPECTION..........................52
INSTALLATION.........................52
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION.........................53
OPERATION...........................53
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP......................53CLEANING............................53
INSPECTION..........................54
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
REMOVAL.............................54
INSTALLATION.........................54
COOLANT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT
ETHYLENE-GLYCOL MIXTURES
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon the climate and vehicle oper-
ating conditions. The recommended mixture of 50/50
ethylene-glycol and water will provide protection
against freezing to -37 deg. C (-35 deg. F). The anti-
freeze concentrationmust alwaysbe a minimum of
44 percent, year-round in all climates.If percentage
is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be
eroded by cavitation, and cooling system com-
ponents may be severely damaged by corrosion.
Maximum protection against freezing is provided
with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which
prevents freezing down to -67.7 deg. C (-90 deg. F). A
higher percentage will freeze at a warmer tempera-
ture. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can
cause the engine to overheat because the specific
heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.
Use of 100 percent ethylene-glycol will cause for-
mation of additive deposits in the system, as the cor-
rosion inhibitive additives in ethylene-glycol require
the presence of water to dissolve. The deposits act as
insulation, causing temperatures to rise to as high as
149 deg. C (300) deg. F). This temperature is hot
enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The
increased temperature can result in engine detona-
tion. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes
at 22 deg. C (-8 deg. F ).
PROPYLENE-GLYCOL MIXTURES
It's overall effective temperature range is smaller
than that of ethylene-glycol. The freeze point of 50/50
propylene-glycol and water is -32 deg. C (-26 deg. F).
5 deg. C higher than ethylene-glycol's freeze point.
The boiling point (protection against summer boil-
over) of propylene-glycol is 125 deg. C (257 deg. F )at 96.5 kPa (14 psi), compared to 128 deg. C (263
deg. F) for ethylene-glycol. Use of propylene-glycol
can result in boil-over or freeze-up on a cooling sys-
tem designed for ethylene-glycol. Propylene glycol
also has poorer heat transfer characteristics than
ethylene glycol. This can increase cylinder head tem-
peratures under certain conditions.
Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can
cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibi-
tors, causing damage to the various cooling system
components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propy-
lene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle,
conventional methods of determining freeze point will
not be accurate. Both the refractive index and spe-
cific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propy-
lene glycol.
DESCRIPTION - HOAT COOLANT
WARNING: ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE GLYCOL
BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWAL-
LOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK
TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMIT-
ING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA.
SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT
STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS.
WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER
COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE GLYCOL.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF
GLYCOL BASE COOLANT PROPERLY, CONTACT
YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR
LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR
AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN
THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR
HOT UNDER PRESSURE, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN
ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS
PERFORMED, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants
is not recommended, as they provide less freeze
protection and less corrosion protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and
engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the
radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the
heat to the air.
WJENGINE 7 - 25