Jack JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 2003, Model line: GRAND CHEROKEE, Model: JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.GPages: 2199, PDF Size: 76.01 MB
Page 273 of 2199
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not,
engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in
wrong direction.
(6) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Connect negative battery cable.
(8) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
WATER PUMP - 4.0L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: All 4.0L 6-cylinder engines are equipped
with a reverse (counterclockwise) rotating water
pump and thermal viscous fan drive assembly.
REVERSE is stamped or imprinted on the cover of
the viscous fan drive and inner side of the fan. The
letter R is stamped into the back of the water pump
impeller. Engines from previous model years,
depending upon application, may have been
equipped with a forward (clockwise) rotating water
pump. Installation of the wrong water pump or vis-
cous fan drive will cause engine over heating.
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary (Fig. 45).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
LOOSE IMPELLER - 4.0L and 4.7L
NOTE: Due to the design of the 4.0L and 4.7L
engine water pumps, testing the pump for a loose
impeller must be done by verifying coolant flow in
the radiator. To accomplish this refer to the follow-
ing procedure.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(1) Drain coolant until the first row of cores is vis-
ible in the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE) 4.7L Engine or (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE) 4.0L
Engine.(2) Leaving the radiator cap off, start the engine.
Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) While looking into the radiator through the
radiator fill neck, raise engine rpm to 2000 RPM.
Observe the flow of coolant from the first row of
cores.
(4) If there is no flow or very little flow visable,
replace the water pump.
INSPECTING FOR INLET RESTRICTIONS
Inadequate heater performance may be caused by
a metal casting restriction in the heater hose inlet.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain sufficient coolant from the radiator to
decrease the level below the heater hose inlet. On
4.7L engines this requires complete draining.
(2) Remove the heater hose.
(3) Inspect the inlet for metal casting flash or
other restrictions.
Fig. 45 Water Pump
1 - HEATER HOSE FITTING BORE
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - WATER PUMP HUB
7 - 50 ENGINEWJ
WATER PUMP - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 349 of 2199
The battery cables (Fig. 17) or (Fig. 18) are large
gauge, stranded copper wires sheathed within a
heavy plastic or synthetic rubber insulating jacket.
The wire used in the battery cables combines excel-
lent flexibility and reliability with high electrical cur-
rent carrying capacity. Refer toWiring Diagrams
for battery cable wire gauge information.
A clamping type female battery terminal made of
soft lead is die cast onto one end of the battery cable
wire. A square headed pinch-bolt and hex nut are
installed at the open end of the female battery termi-
nal clamp. Large eyelet type terminals are crimped
onto the opposite end of the battery cable wire and
then solder-dipped. The battery positive cable wires
have a red insulating jacket to provide visual identi-
fication and feature a larger female battery terminal
clamp to allow connection to the larger battery posi-
tive terminal post. The battery negative cable wires
have a black insulating jacket and a smaller female
battery terminal clamp.
The battery cables cannot be repaired and, if dam-
aged or faulty they must be replaced. Both the bat-
tery positive and negative cables are available for
service replacement only as a unit with the battery
wire harness, which may include portions of the wir-
ing circuits for the generator and other components
on some models. Refer toWiring Diagramsfor more
information on the various wiring circuits included in
the battery wire harness for the vehicle being ser-
viced.
OPERATION
The battery cables connect the battery terminal
posts to the vehicle electrical system. These cables
also provide a path back to the battery for electrical
current generated by the charging system for restor-
ing the voltage potential of the battery. The female
battery terminal clamps on the ends of the battery
cable wires provide a strong and reliable connection
of the battery cable to the battery terminal posts.
The terminal pinch bolts allow the female terminal
clamps to be tightened around the male terminal
posts on the top of the battery. The eyelet terminals
secured to the opposite ends of the battery cable
wires from the female battery terminal clamps pro-
vide secure and reliable connection of the battery
cables to the vehicle electrical system.
The battery positive cable terminal clamp is die
cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an eye-
let terminal that connects the battery positive cable
to the B(+) terminal stud of the Power Distribution
Center (PDC), and the other wire has an eyelet ter-
minal that connects the battery positive cable to the
B(+) terminal stud of the engine starter motor sole-
noid. The battery negative cable terminal clamp is
also die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wirehas an eyelet terminal that connects the battery neg-
ative cable to the vehicle powertrain through a stud
on the right side of the engine cylinder block. The
other wire has an eyelet terminal that connects the
battery negative cable to the vehicle body through a
ground screw on the right front fender inner shield,
near the battery.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BATTERY CABLES
A voltage drop test will determine if there is exces-
sive resistance in the battery cable terminal connec-
tions or the battery cable. If excessive resistance is
found in the battery cable connections, the connec-
tion point should be disassembled, cleaned of all cor-
rosion or foreign material, then reassembled.
Following reassembly, check the voltage drop for the
battery cable connection and the battery cable again
to confirm repair.
When performing the voltage drop test, it is impor-
tant to remember that the voltage drop is giving an
indication of the resistance between the two points at
which the voltmeter probes are attached.EXAM-
PLE:When testing the resistance of the battery pos-
itive cable, touch the voltmeter leads to the battery
positive cable terminal clamp and to the battery pos-
itive cable eyelet terminal at the starter solenoid
B(+) terminal stud. If you probe the battery positive
terminal post and the battery positive cable eyelet
terminal at the starter solenoid B(+) terminal stud,
you are reading the combined voltage drop in the
battery positive cable terminal clamp-to-terminal
post connection and the battery positive cable.
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
The following operation will require a voltmeter
accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing this
test, be certain that the following procedures are
accomplished:
²The battery is fully-charged and load tested.
Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper battery
charging and load test procedures.
²Fully engage the parking brake.
²If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in the
Park position. If the vehicle is equipped with a man-
ual transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in
the Neutral position and block the clutch pedal in the
fully depressed position.
²Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned
off.
²To prevent the engine from starting, remove the
Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay. The ASD relay is
located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC), in
the engine compartment. See the fuse and relay lay-
out label affixed to the underside of the PDC cover
for ASD relay identification and location.
8F - 18 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)
Page 395 of 2199
HORN SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A center-blow, normally open, resistive membrane-
type horn switch is secured in a plastic tray that is
inserted in a pocket sewn on the front of the driver
side airbag retainer strap. The horn switch is con-
cealed behind the driver side airbag module trim
cover in the center of the steering wheel. The switch
consists of two plastic membranes, one that is flat
and one that is slightly convex. These two mem-
branes are secured to each other around the perime-
ter. Inside the switch, the centers of the facing
surfaces of these membranes each has a grid made
with an electrically conductive material applied to it.
One of the grids is connected to a circuit that pro-
vides it with continuity to ground at all times. The
grid of the other membrane is connected to the horn
relay control circuit.
The steering wheel and steering column must be
properly grounded in order for the horn switch to
function properly. The horn switch and plastic tray
are serviced as a unit. If the horn switch is damaged
or faulty, or if the driver side airbag is deployed, the
horn switch and tray must be replaced as a unit.
OPERATION
When the center area of the driver side airbag trim
cover is depressed, the electrically conductive grids
on the facing surfaces of the horn switch membranes
contact each other, closing the switch circuit. The
completed horn switch circuit provides a ground for
the control coil side of the horn relay, which activates
the relay. When the horn switch is released, the
resistive tension of the convex membrane separates
the two electrically conductive grids and opens the
switch circuit.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN SWITCH
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appro-
priate wiring information. The wiring information
includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector
repair procedures, details of wire harness routing
and retention, connector pin-out information and
location views for the various wire harness connec-
tors, splices and grounds.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO ELECTRICAL, RESTRAINTS
BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL,
STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE
TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the steering column opening cover
from the instrument panel.
(2) Check for continuity between the metal steer-
ing column jacket and a good ground. There should
be continuity. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, refer to
Steering, Column for proper installation of the steer-
ing column.
(3) Remove the driver side airbag module from the
steering wheel. Disconnect the horn switch wire har-
ness connectors from the driver side airbag module.
(4) Remove the horn relay from the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC). Check for continuity between
the steering column half of the horn switch feed wire
harness connector and a good ground. There should
be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK,
repair the shorted horn relay control circuit to the
horn relay in the PDC as required.
(5) Check for continuity between the steering col-
umn half of the horn switch feed wire harness con-
nector and the horn relay control circuit cavity for
the horn relay in the PDC. There should be continu-
ity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open
horn relay control circuit to the horn relay in the
PDC as required.
Fig. 3 Power Distribution Center
1 - RIGHT FENDER
2 - BATTERY
3 - POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER
4 - COVER
8H - 6 HORNWJ
HORN RELAY (Continued)
Page 467 of 2199
ness connector for the multi-function switch and the
instrument panel wire harness connector for the
BCM. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 3.
If not OK, repair the open headlamp switch mux cir-
cuit.
(3) Check for continuity between the headlamp
switch return circuit of the instrument panel wire
harness connector for the multi-function switch and a
good ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go
to Step 4. If not OK, repair the shorted headlamp
switch return circuit.
(4) Check for continuity between the headlamp
switch return circuit of the instrument panel wire
harness connector for the multi-function switch and
the instrument panel wire harness connector for the
BCM. There should be continuity. If OK, use a
DRBIIItscan tool and the proper Diagnostic Proce-
dures manual to test the BCM. If not OK, repair the
open headlamp switch return circuit.
HEADLAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the jack screw attaching the top of
headlamp to the headlamp mounting module (Fig.
14).
(2) Grasp upper inboard and lower outboard cor-
ners of headlamp (Fig. 15) and pull headlamp out-
ward.
(3) Remove all of the bulb sockets from headlamp
module.
(4) Separate the headlamp from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not touch the bulb glass with fingers
or other oily surfaces. Reduced bulb life will result.
(1) Install all of the bulb sockets in headlamp mod-
ule.
(2) Position the headlamp on the vehicle and align
the ball studs with the sockets.
(3) Push the headlamp inward to secure the ball
studs with the sockets.
(4) Install the jack screw attaching the top of
headlamp to the headlamp mounting module.
ADJUSTMENTS
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR LAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper lamp alignment.
(3) Verify proper tire inflation.
(4) Clean lamp lenses.
(5) Verify that luggage area is not heavily loaded.
(6) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 ft) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 16).
(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 7.62
meters (25 ft) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Measure from the floor up 1.27 meters (5 ft)
and tape a line on the wall at the centerline of the
vehicle. Sight along the centerline of the vehicle
Fig. 14 Headlamp Jackscrew
1 - JACKSCREW
2 - HEADLAMP
Fig. 15 Headlamp Removal
1 - HEADLAMP
8L - 16 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORWJ
HEADLAMP SWITCH (Continued)
Page 555 of 2199
(3) Align and seat the one pin and the two mount-
ing ears on the clockspring case to their respective
holes in the multi-function switch mounting housing.
(4) Install and tighten the two clockspring mount-
ing screws. Tighten the screws to 2.5 N´m (22 in.
lbs.).
(5) Reconnect the two instrument panel wire har-
ness connectors for the clockspring to the two connec-
tor receptacles below the steering column on the back
of the clockspring case.
(6) Position the lower tilting steering column
shroud onto the steering column (Fig. 16).
(7) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
lower tilting steering column shroud to the multi-
function switch mounting housing. Tighten the screw
to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(8) Position the upper tilting column shroud onto
the steering column with the hazard warning switch
button inserted through the hole in the upper surface
of the shroud. Align the upper tilting steering column
shroud to the lower shroud and snap the two shroud
halves together.
(9) Align the snap features on the upper and lower
shrouds and apply hand pressure to snap them
together.
(10) Reinstall the steering wheel onto the steering
column. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN/STEER-
ING WHEEL - INSTALLATION).
(11)
Reconnect the steering wheel wire harness con-
nectors to the upper clockspring connector receptacles.
(12) Reinstall the driver airbag onto the steering
wheel. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/
DRIVER AIRBAG - INSTALLATION).
DRIVER AIRBAG
DESCRIPTION
The injection molded, thermoplastic driver airbag
protective trim cover is the most visible part of the
driver airbag (Fig. 18). The driver airbag is located in
the center of the steering wheel, where it is secured
with two screws to the two horizontal spokes of the
four-spoke steering wheel armature. A stamped, satin
polished emblem with the Jeeptlogo is applied to the
center of the trim cover. Concealed beneath the
driver airbag trim cover are the horn switch, the
folded airbag cushion, the airbag retainer or housing,
the airbag inflator, and the retainers that secure the
inflator to the airbag housing.
The airbag cushion, housing, and inflator are
secured within an integral receptacle molded into the
back of the trim cover. The driver airbag trim cover
has locking blocks molded into the back side of it
that engage a lip formed around the perimeter of the
airbag housing. Two stamped metal retainers then fitover the inflator mounting studs on the back of the
airbag housing and are engaged in slots within the
upper and lower trim cover locking blocks, securely
locking the cover into place.
The resistive membrane-type horn switch is
secured within a plastic tray that is inserted in a
pocket or pouch sewn onto the airbag cushion
retainer strap, between the trim cover and the folded
airbag cushion. The horn switch ground pigtail wire
has an eyelet terminal connector that is captured on
the upper right inflator mounting stud between the
inflator and the upper trim cover retainer. The horn
switch feed pigtail wire has a white, molded plastic
insulator that is secured by an integral retainer to a
mounting hole located in the upper trim cover
retainer near the upper left corner on the back of the
airbag housing, and is connected to the vehicle elec-
trical system through a take out and connector of the
steering wheel wire harness.
The airbag used in this model is a multistage, Next
Generation-type that complies with revised federal air-
bag standards to deploy with less force than those used
in some prior models. A radial deploying fabric airbag
cushion with tethers is used. The airbag inflator is a
dual-initiator, non-azide, pyrotechnic-type unit with
four mounting studs and is secured to the stamped
metal airbag housing using four hex nuts with washers.
Two keyed and color-coded connector receptacles on the
driver airbag inflator connect the two inflator initiators
to the vehicle electrical system through two yellow-
jacketed, two-wire pigtail harnesses of the clockspring.
The driver airbag cannot be repaired, and must be
replaced if deployed or in any way damaged. The driver
airbag trim cover and the horn switch are available
individually, and may be disassembled from the driver
airbag for service replacement.
Fig. 18 Driver Airbag Trim Cover
1 - STEERING WHEEL
2 - TRIM COVER
8O - 18 RESTRAINTSWJ
CLOCKSPRING (Continued)
Page 1251 of 2199
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder CYLINDER COMBUSTION
PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 8 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1255 of 2199
(7) Remove the fan assembly from the water pump
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud.
(9) Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines
(automatic transmission).
(10) Discharge the A/C system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove the service valves and cap the com-
pressor ports.
(12) Remove the radiator or radiator/condenser (if
equipped with A/C).
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine
thermostat housing and water pump.
(14) Disconnect the accelerator cable, transmission
line pressure cable and speed control cable (if
equipped) from the throttle body.
(15) Remove cables from the bracket and secure
out of the way.
(16) Disconnect the body ground at the engine.
(17) Disconnect the following connectors and
secure their harness out of the way.
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(18) Disconnect the coil rail electrical connections
and the oil pressure switch connector.
(19) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the injector
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(21) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(22) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Fig. 5).
(23) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(24) Drain the pump reservoir.
(25) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the sys-
tem.
(26) Raise and support the vehicle.
(27) Disconnect the wires from the engine starter
motor solenoid.(28) Remove the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
REMOVAL).
(29) Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the
exhaust pipe.
(30) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(31) Remove the exhaust pipe support.
(32) Remove the bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
REMOVAL).
(33) Remove the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(34) Mark the converter and drive plate location.
(35) Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(36) Remove the upper engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(37) Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(38) Lower the vehicle.
(39) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(40) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(41) Place a support or floor jack under the con-
verter (or engine flywheel) housing.
(42) Remove the remaining converter (or engine
flywheel) housing bolts.
(43) Lift the engine out of the engine compart-
ment.
Fig. 5 Air Cleaner Assembly
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP
2 - AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
9 - 12 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
Page 1297 of 2199
All Jeep engines are equipped with a high quality
full-flow, throw-away type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler
Corporation recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss or filter
adapter housing (Fig. 75).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) Make sure old gasket comes off with oil filter.
With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface
(Fig. 76) of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 76) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The oil pan is made of stamped steel. The oil pan
gasket is a one piece steel backbone silicone coated
gasket (Fig. 77).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOV-
AL).
(7) Remove the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
Fig. 75 Oil FilterÐ4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - ADAPTER
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 76 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 77 Oil Pan
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
9 - 54 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)
Page 1298 of 2199
(10) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(11) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
(12) Using the jack stand, raise the engine until
adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
(13) Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
are attached to the oil pan studs.
(14) Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully
slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped
with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the
sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
(2) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 1/4
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 78).
(3) Install two dowels in the timing case cover.
Install the other two dowels in the cylinder block
(Fig. 79).
(4) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant on cylinder block to rear main bearing cap cor-
ners and cylinder block to front cover joints (four
places) (Fig. 80).
(5) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block and timing case cover.
(6) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take
care not to damage the sensor.
(7) Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these
bolts to 9.5 N´m (84 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16
inch oil pan bolts (Fig. 81). Tighten these bolts to 15
N´m (132 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 1/4
inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 9.5 N´m (84
in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 78 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 - 1/488ý 1 1/288BOLT
2 - DOWEL
3 - SLOT
Fig. 79 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
1 - DOWEL HOLES
2 - CYLINDER BLOCK
3 - 5/1688HOLES
4 - 5/1688HOLES
Fig. 80 Oil Pan Sealer Location
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
Fig. 81 Position of 5/16 inch Oil Pan Bolts
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 55
OIL PAN (Continued)
Page 1299 of 2199
(9) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(10) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(11) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(12) Install the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(13) Install the engine starter motor. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(15) Install transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
attach to the oil pan studs.
(16) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 81).
Tighten the plug to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
(19) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(20) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They
are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to theinstrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
82).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump Assembly
1 - OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
2 - BLOCK
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL INLET TUBE
5 - OIL PUMP
6 - STRAINER ASSEMBLY
7 - ATTACHING BOLTS
9 - 56 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL PAN (Continued)