Rotors JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
The calipers are twin piston type. The calipers are
free to slide laterally on the anchor, this allows con-
tinuous compensation for lining wear.
DESCRIPTION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
The rear disc brakes consist of single piston float-
ing-type calipers and solid rotors. The rear caliper is
mounted on an anchor attached to an adapter
attached the rear axle tube flange. The anchors are
secured to the adapters with mounting bolts. The
disc brake rotor splash shield is part of the adaptor.
The disc brake rotor has a built in brake drum used
for the parking brakes (Fig. 6). The parking brake
shoes are mounted to the adaptor.
OPERATION
OPERATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
OPERATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
Fig. 6 Rear Disc Brake Rotor
1 - PARKING BRAKE DRUM SURFACE
2 - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
Fig. 7 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEWJ

shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL- FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 9).
(5) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove caliper from the anchor.
Fig. 8 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
Fig. 9 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 10 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the master cylinder.
(2) Disconnect vacuum hose at booster check valve.
(3) Remove retainer clip (Fig. 60) that holds
booster push rod on pedal pin. Then slide push rod
off pin.
(4) Remove four nuts (Fig. 61) that attach booster
to dash panel.
(5) In engine compartment, slide booster forward,
tilt it upward slightly, and remove it from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check condition of grommet that secures check
valve in booster. Replace grommet if cut, torn, or
loose.
(2) Install new booster dash seal.
(3) Align and position booster on engine compart-
ment side of dash panel.
(4) Inside passenger compartment:
(a) Lubricate pedal pin Mopar multi-mileage
grease.
(b) Install booster attaching nuts on studs.
Tighten attaching nuts to 39 N´m (29 ft. lbs.).
(c) Slide booster push rod on pedal pin. Then
secure rod to pin with retainer clip.
(5) In engine compartment, attach vacuum hose to
booster check valve.(6) Install the master cylinder with new gasket
and nuts.
CAUTION: The master cylinder installation proce-
dure must be perform as written or damage to the
booster/master cylinder may occur.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system.
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT DISC
BRAKE ROTOR
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Rotor minimum usable thickness is 24.5 mm (0.964
in.). Do not resurface a rotor if machining would
cause thickness to fall below this limit.
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if refinishing would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
FRONT ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Fig. 60 Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
Fig. 61 Power Brake Booster Mounting
1 - BOOSTER
2 - DASH PANEL
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

Measure rotor thickness a minimum of six points
around the rotor face. Position the micrometer approx-
imately 19 mm (3/4 in.) from the rotor outer circumfer-
ence for each measurement (Fig. 62).
Thickness should not vary by more than 0.0127 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point to point on the rotor. Refinish or
replace the rotor if necessary.
NOTE: A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is recom-
mended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehi-
cles hub/bearing.
CAUTION: For vehicles equipped with the Quadra-
Drive System, consisting of the NV-247 transfer case
and a Vari-Lok differential in the front and rear axles,
the following steps must be done prior to the use of a
hub mounted on-vehicle brake lathe. Disconnect the
driveshaft (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/
PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
from the respective axle on which the brake rotors are
being machined. Temporarily remove both brake cali-
pers (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL) from the axle
while disc rotor machining is in process. Both steps
will prevent unnecessary loads to the hub mounted
on-vehicle lathe and speed machining times. Install a
thread lock material to the driveshaft attaching bolts
when reinstalling (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT -
INSTALLATION).
Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched mounted
for minimum lateral runout. Before removing the rotor,
mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain original
orientation.
FRONT ROTOR LATERAL RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout whenever pedal pulsation,
or rapid, uneven brake lining wear has occurred.
The rotor must be securely clamped to the hub to
ensure an accurate runout measurement. Secure therotor with a minimum of 3 lug nuts and large diameter
flat washers on each stud.
Use a dial indicator to check lateral runout (Fig. 63).
Maximum allowable rotor lateral runout is 0.05 mm
(0.002 in.).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DISC
BRAKE ROTOR
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Minimum usable thickness of the rear disc brake
rotor is 8.5 mm (0.335 in.). The thickness specification
is located on the center section of the rotor.
Never resurface a rotor if machining would cause
thickness to fall below this limit.
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if refinishing would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
REAR ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pulsa-
tion, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at a minimum of six points
around the rotor face. Position the micrometer approxi-
mately 19 mm (3/4 in.) from the rotor outer circumfer-
ence for each measurement (Fig. 62).
Thickness should not vary by more than 0.0127 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point to point on the rotor. Refinish or
replace the rotor if necessary.
REAR ROTOR LATERAL RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout whenever diagnosis indi-
cates pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven brake lining
wear.
The rotor must be securely clamped to the hub to
ensure an accurate runout measurement. Secure the
rotor with the wheel nuts and 4 or 5 large diameter flat
washers on each stud.
Use a dial indicator to check lateral runout (Fig. 63).
Maximum allowable lateral runout is 0.76 mm (0.003 in.).
Fig. 62 Measuring Rotor Thickness Variation
1 - MICROMETER
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 63 Checking Rotor Lateral Runout
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
5 - 32 BRAKES - BASEWJ
ROTORS (Continued)
2002 WJ Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-02064
02WJ5-32 June, 2002

STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC ROTOR
MACHINING
CAUTION: For vehicles equipped with the Quadra-
Drive System, consisting of the NV-247 transfer case
and a Vari-Lok differential in the front and rear axles,
the following steps must be done prior to the use of a
hub mounted on-vehicle brake lathe. Disconnect the
driveshaft (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/
PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
from the respective axle on which the brake rotors are
being machined. Temporarily remove both brake cali-
pers (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL) from the axle
while disc rotor machining is in process. Both steps
will prevent unnecessary loads to the hub mounted
on-vehicle lathe and speed machining times. Install a
thread lock material to the driveshaft attaching bolts
when reinstalling (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT -
INSTALLATION).
NOTE: A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is recom-
mended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehi-
cles hub/bearing.
The disc brake rotor can be machined if scored or
worn. The lathe must machine both sides of the rotor
simultaneously with dual cutter heads. The rotor
mounting surface must be clean before placing on the
lathe. Equipment capable of machining only one side at
a time may produce a tapered rotor.
CAUTION: Brake rotors that do not meet minimum
thickness specifications before or after machining
must be replaced.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE ROTOR
NOTE: Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched
mounted for minimum lateral runout. Before removing
the rotor, mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain
original orientation.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper anchor bolts (Fig. 64) and
remove the caliper and anchor as an assembly from the
steering knuckle.
(4) Secure caliper anchor assembly to nearby suspen-
sion part with a wire.Do not allow brake hose to
support caliper weight.
(5) Mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain orig-
inal orientation. Remove retainers securing rotor to hub
studs.
(6) Remove rotor from hub/bearing.
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper anchor bolts (Fig. 65).
(4) Remove caliper and anchor as an assembly.(5) Secure caliper anchor assembly to nearby suspen-
sion part with wire.Do not allow brake hose to sup-
port caliper weight.
(6) Remove retainers securing rotor to axle studs.
(7) Remove rotor off axle studs.
Fig. 64 Caliper Anchor Bolts
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - ANCHOR
3 - ANCHOR BOLTS
4 - ROTOR
Fig. 65 Caliper Anchor Bolts
1 - ROTOR
2 - ANCHOR
3 - ANCHOR BOLTS
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 33
ROTORS (Continued)
2002 WJ Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-02064
02WJ5-33 June, 2002

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE ROTOR
NOTE: If a new rotor is installed it must be match
mounted to the hub/bearing.
(1) Install rotor on hub studs in its original loca-
tion.
(2) Install the caliper anchor assembly on the
knuckle. Install anchor bolts and tighten to 90-115
N´m (66-85 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Pump brake pedal to seat caliper pistons and
brake shoes. Do not move vehicle until firm brake
pedal is obtained.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Install rotor on axle studs.
(2) Install the caliper anchor assembly.
(3) Install anchor bolts and tighten to 90-115 N´m
(66-85 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(5) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(6) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brake shoes are seated.
PARKING BRAKE
OPERATION
The parking brakes operated by a automatic ten-
sioner mechanism built into the hand lever and cable
system. The front cable is connected to the hand
lever and the equalizer. The rear cables attached to
the equalizer and the parking brake shoe actuator.
A set of drum type brake shoes are used for park-
ing brakes. The shoes are mounted to the rear disc
brake adaptor. The parking brake drum is integrated
into the rear disc brake rotor.
Parking brake cable adjustment is controlled by an
automatic tensioner mechanism. The only adjust-
ment if necessary is to the park brake shoes if the
linings are worn.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PARKING BRAKE
NOTE: Parking brake adjustment is controlled by an
automatic cable tensioner and does not require
adjustment. The only adjustment that may be nec-
essary would be to the park brake shoes if they are
worn.
The parking brake switch is in circuit with the red
warning lamp in the dash. The switch will cause the
lamp to illuminate only when the parking brakes are
applied. If the lamp remains on after parking brake
release, the switch or wires are faulty.
If the red lamp comes on a fault has occurred in
the front or rear brake hydraulic system.
If the red warning lamp and yellow warning lamp
come on, the electronic brake distribution may be at
fault.
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/won't
hold), can be traced to a parking brake component.
NOTE: The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the park-
ing brake shoes and the shoe braking surface.
Excessive clearance is a result of lining and/or
drum wear, drum surface machined oversize.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brake shoes, improper brake shoe
adjustment, or improperly assembled brake parts.
A too loose condition can also be caused by inoper-
ative or improperly assembled parking brake shoe
parts.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²Brake shoe wear
²Drum surface (in rear rotor) machined oversize
²Front cable not secured to lever
²Rear cable not attached to actuator
²Rear cable seized
²Parking brake lever not seated
²Parking brake lever bind
5 - 34 BRAKES - BASEWJ
ROTORS (Continued)

(7) Raise and support the vehicle.
(8) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(9) Remove the brake calipers, caliper anchors and
rotors.
(10) Remove the ABS sensor wiring harness (Fig.
74)from the rear brake cables.
(11) Remove the cable retainer bolts (Fig. 74) from
the rear spring pads.
(12) Pull the cables out of the upper suspension
arm brackets.
(13) Push the cable in and lift up the end of cable
with a small screw driver to disengage the cable from
the parking brake actuator (Fig. 75).
(14) Remove the cable from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(1) Install thecable into the parking brake lever
bracket and equalizer bracket.
(2) Install the front cable to the floor pan and
install retainer nuts.
(3) Engage the front cable ends to the parking
brake lever and equalizer.
(4) Install the front carpet, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Pull on the lever to release the lock out spring.
(6) Install the center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Fold down the rear carpet cover and rear seat.
INSTALLATION - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES
(1) Install the cables through the caliper anchor
mount. Then push the end of cable strand in to
engage the cable end to the parking brake actuator.
(2) Feed the other end of the cables through the
body and into the equalizer bracket (Fig. 76).
Fig. 74 Left Rear Parking Brake Cable
1 - CABLE BRACKET
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
4 - CABLE RETAINER
5 - ABS SENSOR WIRING
Fig. 75 Parking Brake
1 - CABLE END
2 - SCREW DRIVER
3 - PARKING BRAKE ACTUATOR
4 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 76 Equalizer Bracket
1 - EQUALIZER
2 - RIGHT REAR CABLE
3 - LEFT REAR CABLE
4 - FRONT CABLE
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 37
CABLES (Continued)