light JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKESBRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wire connector from the fluid level
sensor.
(2) From the same side of the master cylinder res-
ervoir release the sensor locking taps with a small
screw driver.
(3) Pull the sensor out of the reservoir from the
connector side of the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the sensor with a new o-ring into the
reservoir until the locking tabs are engaged.
(2) Install the wire connector to the fluid level sen-
sor.
RED BRAKE WARN INDICATOR
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A red warning lamp is used for the service brake
portion of the hydraulic system. The lamp is located
in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The lamp is turned on momentarily when the igni-
tion switch is turn to the on position. This is a self
test to verify the lamp is operational.
The red warning light alerts the driver if the fluid
level is low or the parking brakes are applied. A red
warning lamp with an amber warning lamp may
indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RED BRAKE
WARNING LAMP
The red warning lamp illuminates when the park-
ing brake is applied or when the fluid level in the
master cylinder is low. It will also illuminate at start
up as part of a bulb check.
If the light comes on, first verify that the parking
brakes are fully released. Then check pedal action
and fluid level. If a problem is confirmed, inspect the
brake hydraulic system for leaks.
A red warning lamp with a amber warning lamp
may indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
Installer Caliper Dust Boot 8280
Handle C-4171
Adapter Pressure Bleeder 6921
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
The calipers are twin piston type. The calipers are
free to slide laterally on the anchor, this allows con-
tinuous compensation for lining wear.
DESCRIPTION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
The rear disc brakes consist of single piston float-
ing-type calipers and solid rotors. The rear caliper is
mounted on an anchor attached to an adapter
attached the rear axle tube flange. The anchors are
secured to the adapters with mounting bolts. The
disc brake rotor splash shield is part of the adaptor.
The disc brake rotor has a built in brake drum used
for the parking brakes (Fig. 6). The parking brake
shoes are mounted to the adaptor.
OPERATION
OPERATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
OPERATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
Fig. 6 Rear Disc Brake Rotor
1 - PARKING BRAKE DRUM SURFACE
2 - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
Fig. 7 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEWJ

shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL- FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 9).
(5) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove caliper from the anchor.
Fig. 8 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
Fig. 9 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 10 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(4) Remove caliper piston dust boot with a suitable
pry tool (Fig. 34) and discard.
(5) Remove piston seal from the caliper (Fig.
35)and discard.
CAUTION: Do not scratch the piston bore while
removing the seal.
(6) Remove caliper slide pin bushings (Fig. 36).
(7) Remove caliper bleed screw.
CLEANING - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, paint
thinner, or similar solvents. These products may
leave a residue that could damage the piston and
seal.
INSPECTION - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 37). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
Fig. 34 Caliper Piston Dust
1 - PISTON DUST BOOT
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 35 Piston Seal Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 36 Slide Pin And Bushing
1 - BUSHING
2 - CALIPER SLIDE PIN
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 19
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
NOTE: Inspect and repair any external fluid leaks
before performing test.
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2)
Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away the master cylinder or HCU may be faulty
(internal leakage).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and turn off the engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, some component of the booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 48).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm,
check valve or check valve seal/grommet is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2)
Remove check valve and valve seal from booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.(4) Apply 51-67 kPa (15-20 in.) vacuum at large
end of check valve (Fig. 49).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss the check valve and seal
should be replaced.
Fig. 48 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 49 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEWJ
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals. Repositioning the pedals
does not change the effort required for actuation.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor. The
pedal drive motor turns a screw that changes the
position of the brake and accelerator pedals. The
pedal can be moved rearward (closer to the driver) or
forward (away from driver). The brake pedal is
moved on its drive screw to a position where the
driver feels most comfortable (Fig. 52).
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal. The accel-
erator pedal adjustment screw is turned by a flexible
shaft slaved off the brake adjustment screw.
Neither the pedal drive motor nor drive mecha-
nism are subject to the mechanical stress of brake or
accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
²Memory: An optional memory feature is avail-
able. This allows storing of one or two preferred
pedal positions in the Adjustable Pedal Module
(APM). A preferred position can be stored and
recalled using the door-mounted switches. A stored
pedal position can be recalled (but not stored)
using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE).
²
Adjustable Pedal Feedback Message: The Elec-
tronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) will display
a message when the APS is disabled. ie:9Adjustable
Pedal Disabled - Cruise Control Engaged9or9Adjust-
able Pedal Disabled - Vehicle in Reverse9.
²Damage Prevention: Foot pressure or debris
can stall pedal adjustment. In order to avoid dam-
age to system components during pedal adjust-
ment, the APM will monitor pedal position sensor
voltage. If the APM does not detect expected volt-
age change within 1.5 seconds, it will cut power to
the adjustable pedal motor.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which moves the
booster secondary rod. The booster secondary rod
depresses the master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Remove retainer clip that holds booster to
pedal pin (Fig. 53).
Fig. 52 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS ASSEMBLY
1 - HARNESS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
3 - CABLE
4 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
7 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
8 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MODULE
Fig. 53 Push Rod Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)

(2) Remove nut from pedal shaft.
(3) Slide pedal shaft out and remove brake pedal.
(4) Remove pedal bushings (Fig. 54) if they are to
be replaced.
REMOVAL - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
NOTE: If possible put the pedals in the full forward
position.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the module electrical connector.
(5) Remove the brake light switch.
(6) Disconnect the booster rod clip (Fig. 53).
(7) Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
pedal.
(8) Lock the steering wheel into place.
(9) Remove the lower steering shaft pinch bolt
(Fig. 56).
(10) Separate the lower shaft coupler and push for-
ward (Fig. 56).
(11) Remove the two pedal bracket upper nuts
(Fig. 55).
(12) Remove the brake booster nuts (Fig. 56).
(13) Remove the accelerator pedal nuts (Fig. 57).(14) Remove the ICU mounting bracket nuts and
bolts and move the ICU and booster forward this will
allow enough clearance to remove the adjustable
pedal bracket from over the booster push rod.
(15) Remove the pedal from the vehicle (Fig. 56).
(16) Transfer the module if needed.
Fig. 54 Pedal Bushings
1 - BUSHING
2 - BUSHING
3 - SHAFT NUT
4 - PEDAL SHAFT
Fig. 55 UPPER MOUNTING NUTS
1 - UPPER MOUNTING STUDS
2 - ACCELERATOR MOUNTING STUDS
3 - UPPER MOUNTING NUT
4 - MOTOR
5 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
Fig. 56 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
1 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
2 - STEERING COLUMN
3 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
4 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MOUNTING BRACKET
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - MOTOR MOUNTING BRACKET
7 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
(4)
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
PEDAL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Lubricate bushings, pedal shaft and pedal pin
with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(2) Install bushings into pedal.
(3) Position pedal in bracket and install pedal
shaft in support and through pedal.
(4) Install new nut on pedal shaft and tighten to
27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Pedal shaft nut should not be reused.
(5) Install booster push rod on pedal pin and
install retainer clip on pedal pin.
(6) Check and adjust stop lamp switch if necessary.
INSTALLATION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
(1) Install the pedal to the vehicle (Fig. 56).
(2) Reposition the ICU and booster, Install the
ICU mounting bracket nuts and bolts.
28 N
(3) Install the brake booster nuts. Tighten to 28
N´m ( 21 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 56).
(4) Install the pedal bracket upper nuts. Tighten
to 12 N´m ( 9 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 56).
(5) Install the accelerator pedal nuts. Tighten to
28 N´m ( 21 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 57).
(6) Install the lower steering shaft coupler over the
shaft (Fig. 56).
(7) Install the lower steering shaft pinch bolt (Fig.
56).
(8) Unlock the steering wheel.
(9) Reconnect the accelerator cable to the pedal
(Fig. 56).(10) Reconnect the booster rod clip (Fig. 56).
(11) Install the brake light switch.
(12) Reconnect the module electrical connector.
(13) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(14) Install the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
PEDAL MOTOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the two mounting screws (Fig. 58).
(5) Disconnect the electrical connector (Fig. 58).
(6) Remove the adjustable pedal motor (Fig. 58).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the adjustable pedal motor (Fig. 58).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector (Fig. 58).
(3) Install the two mounting screws (Fig. 58).
(4) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 57 ACCELERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
1 - ACCELERATOR MOUNTING NUTS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS BRACKET
3 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
Fig. 58 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MOTOR
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - PEDALS MOTOR
3 - MOUNTING SCREWS HOLES
5 - 28 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)