water leak JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Owner's Guide

INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite mate-
rial and features long runners which maximizes low
end torque. The intake manifold uses single plane
sealing which consist of eight individual press in
place port gaskets to prevent leaks. Eight studs and
two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐINTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove air cleaner housing and throttle body
resonator (Fig. 104).
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster
hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
Fig. 102 Measuring Clearance Over Rotors
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 103 Oil Pump and Primary Timing Chain
Tensioner Tightening Sequence
Fig. 104 Throttle Body Resonator
1 - THROTTLE BODY RESONATOR
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
9 - 136 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
OIL PUMP (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING SYSTEM
STEERING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill parking. Or when the steering wheel is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar
to that of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing
through an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Replace steering gear.
RATTLE OR CLUNK 1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components/track bar.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Loose or damaged steering linkage. 3. Inspect and repair steering
linkage.
4. Internal gear noise. 4. Replace gear.
5. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.5. Reposition hose.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
2. Belt routing. 2. Verify belt routing is correct.
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
4. Air in the system. 4. Perform pump initial operation.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
2. Wrong gear. 2. Verify gear.
19 - 2 STEERINGWJ
STEERING (Continued)

(1) A result of restricted fluid flow through the
main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usu-
ally the result of a faulty or improperly installed
drainback valve, a damaged main cooler, or severe
restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris
or kinked lines.
(2) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not prop-
erly equipped for this type of operation. Trailer tow-
ing or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling sys-
tem, and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
²adding incorrect fluid
²failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when
checking level
²engine coolant entering the fluid
²internal failure that generates debris
²overheat that generates sludge (fluid break-
down)
²failure to reverse flush cooler and lines after
repair
²failure to replace contaminated converter after
repair
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdraw-
ing the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is gener-
ally caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The transmission cooler and lines should be
reverse flushed whenever a malfunction generates
sludge and/or debris. The torque converter should
also be replaced at the same time.
Failure to flush the cooler and lines will result in
recontamination. Flushing applies to auxiliary coolers
as well. The torque converter should also be replaced
whenever a failure generates sludge and debris. This
is necessary because normal converter flushing proce-
dures will not remove all contaminants.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same condi-
tions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mis-
taken for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
Fluid level is checked with the engine running at
curb idle speed, the transmission in NEUTRAL and
the transmission fluid at normal operating tempera-
ture.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.
The transmission fluid level can be checked two
ways.
PROCEDURE ONE
(1) Transmission fluid must be at normal operat-
ing temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive
vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to
normal hot operating temperature of 82ÉC (180ÉF).
(2) Position vehicle on level surface.
(3) Start and run engine at curb idle speed.
(4) Apply parking brakes.
(5) Shift transmission momentarily into all gear
ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.
(6) Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep
dirt from entering tube.
(7) Remove dipstick (Fig. 87) and check fluid level
as follows:
(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.
(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow
mark.
(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.
(d) If fluid is low, add only enough MopartAT F
+4, type 9602, to restore correct level. Do not over-
fill.
21 - 70 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same condi-
tions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can inter-
fere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator opera-
tion. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the
transmission vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P (PARK)
and N (NEUTRAL) positions. Place the selector lever
in P (PARK) to be sure that the fluid level check is
accurate.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.At normal operating temperature(approximately 82 C. or 180 F.), the fluid level is cor-
rect if it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on
the oil level indicator. The fluid level will be approx-
imately at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at
70É F fluid temperature.
NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at nor-
mal operating temperature before performing this
procedure.
(1) Start engine and apply parking brake.
(2) Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approxi-
mately 2 seconds.
(3) Shift the transmission into REVERSE for
approximately 2 seconds.
(4) Shift the transmission into PARK.
(5)
Hook up DRBtscan tool and select transmission.
(6) Select sensors.
(7) Read the transmission temperature value.
(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the
chart. (Fig. 59)
(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the
dipstick according to the chart.
NOTE: After adding any fluid to the transmission,
wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully
drain from the fill tube into the transmission before
rechecking the fluid level.
(10) Check transmission for leaks.
Fig. 59 Transmission Fluid Temperature Chart
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 229
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)

STATIONARY GLASS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL.............................93
INSTALLATION.........................93
QUARTER WINDOW
REMOVAL.............................93INSTALLATION.........................93
WINDSHIELD
REMOVAL.............................94
INSTALLATION.........................95
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove door trim panel.
(2) Remove waterdam.
(3) Remove inner belt weatherstrip.
(4) Remove bolt attaching bottom of rear glass run
channel to door.
(5) Pull run channel downward and separate from
door.
(6) Remove screws attaching stationary door glass
frame to door (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2).
(7) Separate stationary door glass from door.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position stationary door glass in door.
(2) Install screws attaching stationary door glass
frame to door.
(3) Install glass run channel.
(4) Install inner belt weatherstrip.
(5) Install waterdam.
(6) Install door trim panel.
QUARTER WINDOW
REMOVAL
(1) Cut urethane bonding from around quarter
window glass using a suitable sharp cold knife. A
pneumatic cutting device can be used if available.
(2) Separate glass from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Open a window before installing glass.
This will avoid pressurizing the passenger compart-
ment. If a door or liftgate is slammed before ure-
thane is cured, water leaks can result.
The window opening fence should be cleaned of old
urethane bonding material.
(1) Clean inside of glass with Mopar Glass Cleaner
and lint-free cloth.
(2) Apply PVC (vinyl) primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of glass. Wipe with clean/dry lint-free
cloth.
Fig. 1 Stationary Door Glass
1 - DOOR
2 - STATIONARY DOOR GLASS
Fig. 2 Stationary Door Glass
1 - STATIONARY DOOR GLASS
2 - DOOR
WJSTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 93

INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW ALL WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THIS GROUP BEFORE PRECEDING WITH
INSTALLATION.
CAUTION: Open a window before installing wind-
shield. This will avoid pressurizing the passenger
compartment. If a door or liftgate is slammed before
urethane is cured, water leaks can result.
The windshield fence should be cleaned of old ure-
thane bonding material. Support spacers should be
cleaned and properly installed on weld studs or
repair screws at bottom of windshield opening.
(1)
Place replacement windshield into windshield
opening. Position glass in the center of the opening
against the support spacers. Mark the glass at the sup-
port spacers with a grease pencil or masking tape and
ink pen to use as a reference for installation. Remove
replacement windshield from windshield opening (Fig. 6).
(2) Position the windshield inside up on a suitable
work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm
by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed par-
allel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart (Fig. 7).
(3) Clean inside of windshield with Mopar Glass
Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(4) Apply clear glass primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of windshield. Wipe with clean/dry lint-
free cloth.
(5)
Apply black-out primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide on
top and sides of windshield and 25 mm (1 in.) on bottom
of windshield. Allow at least three minutes drying time.
(6) Position windshield spacers on lower fence
above support spacers at the edge of the windshield
opening (Fig. 4).
(7)
Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around
perimeter of windshield along the inside of the mold-
ings. Apply two beads along the bottom edge.
(8) Install upper molding onto windshield.
(9) Apply fence primer around the perimeter of the
windshield opening fence. Allow at least 18 minutes
drying time.
(10) With aid of a helper, position windshield over
windshield opening. Align reference marks at bottom
of windshield to support spacers.
(11) Slowly lower windshield glass to windshield
opening fence. Guide top molding into proper position
if necessary. Push windshield inward to fence spacers
at bottom and until top molding is flush to roof line.
(12) Clean excess urethane from exterior with
Mopar Super Clean or equivalent.
(13) Install windshield side moldings.
(14) Install cowl cover and wipers.
(15) Install inside rear view mirror.
(16) After urethane has cured, water test wind-
shield to verify repair.
Fig. 6 Center Windshield and Mark at Support Spacers
1 - A-PILLAR
2 - WINDSHIELD
3 - MARKS
4 - SUPPORT SPACER
5 - COWLFig. 7 Work Surface Set up and Molding Installation
1 - WINDSHIELD AND MOULDINGS
2-
URETHANE BEAD AROUND GLASS 7mm (.3 in.) FROM EDGE
3 - BLOCKS
Fig. 5 Cut Urethane Around WindshieldÐTypical
1 - COLD KNIFE
2 - WINDSHIELD
WJSTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 95
WINDSHIELD (Continued)

SUNROOF
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION.........................96
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUNROOF......96
DRAIN TUBE
REMOVAL............................100
INSTALLATION........................100
CONTROL MODULE
REMOVAL............................101
INSTALLATION........................101
DRIVE MOTOR
REMOVAL............................101
INSTALLATION........................101
WIND DEFLECTOR
REMOVAL............................102INSTALLATION........................102
GLASS PANEL
REMOVAL............................102
INSTALLATION........................103
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENTS - FIT.................103
ADJUSTMENT - TIMING...............103
SUNSHADE
REMOVAL............................103
INSTALLATION........................103
HOUSING ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL............................104
INSTALLATION........................104
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: Keep fingers and other body parts out
of sunroof opening at all times.
The sunroof features a power sliding glass panel
and a sunshade which can be manually positioned
anywhere along its travel, rearward of glass panel
front edge.
The sunroof is electrically operated from a switch
located on the mini overhead console. To operate the
sunroof the ignition switch must be in the On/Run
position. The sunroof has both manual and Express
Open modes of operation when opening. To open the
sunroof in the Express Open mode, the switch is
pressed rearward for less than1 second.This causes
the sunroof glass to automatically retract and stop at
a position slightly forward of full open that reduces
low speed wind buffeting. The sunroof can also be
opened manually by pressing and holding the switch
rearward. Once the switch is held reward for more
than1 second,the glass will retract in the manual
mode. Releasing the switch at any time during travel
will cause the sunroof to stop at the current position.
To close the sunroof from an open position, the
switch must be pushed forward and held until the
sunroof glass comes to a complete stop. Releasing the
switch at any time in this mode will cause the sun-
roof to stop at the current position.
To vent the sunroof from the closed position, the
switch is pushed forward and held. Releasing theswitch at any time during travel will cause the sun-
roof to stop at the current vent position. To reach the
fully vented position, continue to hold the switch for-
ward until vent motion stops. To close the sunroof
from the vent position, push and hold the switch
rearward until the glass comes to a complete stop.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUNROOF
CAUTION: The sunroof motor is only to be powered
through the vehicle battery and vehicle wire har-
ness. Applying power to the sunroof motor leads
will cause failure of the sunroof control unit.
Before beginning sunroof diagnostics verify that all
other power accessories are in proper operating con-
dition. Refer to Sunroof Diagnostic Chart for possible
causes. If not, a common electrical problem may
exist. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams, of this
publication for circuit, splice and component descrip-
tions. Check the condition of the circuit protection
(20 amp high current fuse (battery feed) located in
the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Check the
cover of the PDC for location of the fuse. Check for
correct operation of the sunroof delay relay. Inspect
all wiring connector pins for proper engagement and
continuity. Check for battery voltage at battery and
ignition pins of the power sunroof express module
wiring connector. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Dia-
grams, for circuit information. The controller will not
operate at less than 10 volts. Check the ground at
the sunroof express module.
Before beginning diagnosis for wind noise or water
leaks, verify that the problem was not caused by
23 - 96 SUNROOFWJ

releasing the control switch before the sunroof was
fully closed. The sunroof module has a water-man-
agement system. During washing high-pressure
water may be forced between the glass panel seal
and the roof opening. Normally this water will drain.
However, when some type of drying blower system is
used, like those found in automatic car washes, thewater may not have a chance to drain before the
blower forces air between the seal and the roof open-
ing. This causes the water to blow over the edge of
the module and onto the headlining.
Refer to (Fig. 1) Sunroof Assembly for exploded
view of the sunroof.
SYMPTOM STEP POSSIBLE CAUSE
Sunroof squeaks when
opening/closing.1 Identify if the cause is a seal squeak. If seal is worn, replace the
seal.
2 Check seal compression for uniformity in opening, If not uniform,
glass is not centered in opening.
3 Re-center glass by repositioning module in opening.
4 Identify if mechanism squeaks.
5 Check for lubrication, re-lube if necessary.
6 Check for dirt/debris in tracks, clean and re-lube.
7 Identify if motor squeaks, replace the motor.
Water leaks into the vehicle. 1 Check for a good connection at the drain tubes, re-connect where
needed.
2 Check for plugged/pinched hoses throughout.
3 Adjust the glass panel. Refer to glass panel adjustments in this
section.
4 Check seal for wear/damage, replace glass as necessary.
Motor inoperative. 1 Check connectors at the motor, switch, control module and power
source.
2 Check for defective control module, replace if necessary.
3 Replace the motor.
Motor noise when opening/
closing.1 Identify if motor noise, replace motor.
2 Insure noise is from the motor and not cables, (cable ratcheting).
Grinding noise when opening/
closing.1 Identify if the motor is grinding, replace motor.
(Mechanism noise, scraping.) 2 Check for lubrication in tracks and mechanism, re-lube if
necessary.
3 Check for dirt/debris in tracks, clean and re-lube.
(Cable ratcheting.) 4 Cables ratchet at the motor pinion; mechanism jammed, fix
mechanism and replace cables and motor bracket.
Wind noise when sunroof fully
closed.1 Check seal compression for uniformity in opening, If not uniform,
glass is not centered in opening.
2 Glass not adjusted flush to roof. Refer to glass panel adjustments
in this section.
3 Mechanism not fully closed.
A) Motor out of time, re-time motor/mechanism. Refer to glass
panel adjustments in this section.
B) Cable ratcheting, replace cables and motor bracket.
4 Seal worn, replace glass.
Sunroof will not open/close. 1 Check switch and switch connection.
WJSUNROOF 23 - 97
SUNROOF (Continued)