Prop JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Manual Online

DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove pinion shaft lock screw (Fig. 50).
(2) Remove pinion shaft.
(3) Rotate differential side gears and remove dif-
ferential pinions and thrust washers (Fig. 51).
(4) Remove differential side gears and thrust
washers.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install differential side gears and thrust wash-
ers.
(2) Install differential pinion gears and thrust
washers.
(3) Install the pinion mate shaft.
(4) Align hole in the pinion mate shaft with the
hole in the differential case and install the pinion
mate shaft lock screw.
(5) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If replacement differential bearings or differ-
ential case are being installed, differential side
bearing shim requirements may change. Refer
Adjustments (Differential Bearing Preload and Gear
Backlash) to determine the proper shim selection.
(1) Position Spreader W-129-B with Adapter set
6987 on differential housing locating holes. Install
the holddown clamps and tighten the tool turnbuckle
finger-tight.
(2) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side of
the differential housing. Attach Dial Indicator C-3339
to pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the indicator.
CAUTION: Never spread the housing over 0.38 mm
(0.015 in). If housing is over-spread, it could be dis-
torted or damaged.
(3) Spread housing enough to install the case in
the housing.
(4) Remove the dial indicator.
(5) Install differential case in housing (Fig. 52).
Verify differential bearing cups remain in position on
the bearings and preload shims are between the face
of the bearing cup and the housing. Tap the differen-
tial case to ensure bearings cups and shims are
seated in the housing.
CAUTION: On a Vari-lokTdifferential the oil feed
tube must be pointed at the bottom of the housing
(Fig. 53). If differential is installed with the oil feed
tube pointed at the top, the anti-rotation tabs will be
damaged.
(6) Install bearing caps in their original locations
(Fig. 54).
(7) Loosely install differential bearing cap bolts.
(8) Remove axle housing spreader.
(9) Tighten bearing cap bolts in a criss-cross pat-
tern to 77 N´m (57 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the axle shafts.
Fig. 50 SHAFT LOCK SCREW
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 51 DIFFERENTIAL GEARS
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL PINION
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 117
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

CAUTION: Vari-lokTplenum must be seated against
the differential case prior to installing the ring gear
side differential bearing.
(1) Install differential side bearings with Installer
C-4340 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 70).
(2) Install differential case into the housing.
(3) Remove support and lower vehicle.
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are serviced as a
matched set. Never replace one gear without the
other matched gear.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Mark pinion yoke and propeller shaft for
installation reference.
(3) Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion yoke
and tie shaft to underbody.
(4) Remove differential from axle housing.
(5) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw.
(6) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.(7) Drive ring gear from differential case with a
rawhide hammer (Fig. 71).
(8) Hold the pinion yoke with Spanner Wrench
6958 and remove the pinion yoke nut and washer
(Fig. 72).
Fig. 70 Install Differential Side Bearings
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL
3 - BEARING
4 - INSTALLER
Fig. 71 RING GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 72 Pinion Yoke Holder
1 - PIPE
2 - PINION YOKE
3 - SPANNER WRENCH
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
3 - 124 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS (Continued)

(14) Remove rear bearing cup from housing (Fig.
77) with Remover C-4307 and Handle C-4171.
(15) Remove collapsible preload spacer (Fig. 78).
(16) Remove rear bearing from the pinion with
Puller/Press C-293-PA and Adapters C-293-42 (Fig.
79).
(17) Remove depth shims from the pinion gear
shaft and record shim thickness.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: A pinion depth shim/oil slinger is placed
between the rear pinion bearing cone and the pin-
ion head to achieve proper ring gear and pinion
mesh. If ring gear and pinion are reused, the pinion
depth shim/oil slinger should not require replace-
ment. Refer to Adjustment (Pinion Gear Depth) to
select the proper thickness shim/oil slinger if ring
and pinion gears are replaced.
Fig. 77 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - REMOVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 78 Collapsible Spacer
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SHOULDER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - DEPTH SHIM
5 - REAR BEARING
Fig. 79 Rear Pinion Bearing Puller
1 - PULLER
2 - VISE
3 - ADAPTERS
4 - PINION GEAR SHAFT
3 - 126 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

(1) Apply Mopar Door Ease or equivalent lubricant
to outside surface of pinion bearing cups.
(2) Install pinion rear bearing cup with Installer
C-4308 and Driver Handle C-4171 (Fig. 80) and ver-
ify cup is seated.
(3) Install pinion front bearing cup with Installer
D-129 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 81) and verify cup is
seated.(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped.
(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with an appropriate
(Fig. 82).
(6) Install depth shim on the pinion gear.
(7) Install rear bearing on the pinion gear with
Installer 6448 and a press (Fig. 83).
Fig. 80 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 81 FRONT PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 82 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 83 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION BEARING
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 127
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

(13) Check bearing rotating torque with a inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 87). The pinion gear rotat-
ing torque should be:
²
Original Bearings: 1 to 2.25 N´m (10 to 20 in. lbs.).
²New Bearings: 2.8 to 4 N´m (25 to 35 in. lbs.).
(14) Invert the differential case and start two ring
gear bolts. This will provide case-to-ring gear bolt
hole alignment.
(15) Invert the differential case in the vise.
(16) Installnewring gear bolts and alternately
tighten to 129-142 N´m (95-105 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 88).
CAUTION: Never reuse the ring gear bolts. The
bolts can fracture causing extensive damage.
NOTE: If equipped with Veri-LokTdifferential install
oil feed plenum and side bearing.
(17) Install differential in housing.
CAUTION: When installing a Vari-lokTdifferential
(Fig. 89), the oil feed tube must point to the bottom
of the housing. If differential is installed with the oil
feed tube pointed toward the top, the anti-rotation
tabs will be damaged.
(18)
Verify differential bearing preload, gear mesh
and contact pattern. Refer to Ajustments for procedure.
(19) Install differential cover and fill with gear
lubricant.(20) Install the propeller shaft with the reference
marks aligned.
(21) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
Fig. 87 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION YOKE/COMPANION FLANGE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 88 RING GEAR
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - RING GEAR BOLT
3 - RING GEAR
4 - CASE
Fig. 89 VARI-LOK
1 - ANTI-ROTATION TAB
2 - OIL FEED TUBE
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 129
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

INSTALLATION.........................23
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................24
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........24
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING PROCEDURE......25
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - STANDARD PEDAL.......25
DESCRIPTION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS....25
OPERATION...........................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL....26
REMOVAL - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS........27
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL . 28
INSTALLATION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS....28
PEDAL MOTOR
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT DISC
BRAKE ROTOR.......................31DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DISC
BRAKE ROTOR.......................32
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC ROTOR
MACHINING..........................33
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE ROTOR . . 33
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR . . . 33
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................34
PARKING BRAKE
OPERATION...........................34
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PARKING BRAKE . 34
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................35
REMOVAL - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES............................36
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................37
INSTALLATION - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES............................37
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
ADJUSTMENTS - PARKING BRAKE SHOE....40
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION
Dual piston disc brake calipers are used on the
front. Single piston disc brake calipers are used on
the rear. Ventilated disc brake rotors are used on the
front and solid rotors are used on the rear.
Power brake assist is supplied by a vacuum oper-
ated, dual diaphragm power brake booster. The mas-
ter cylinder used for all applications has an
aluminum body and nylon reservoir with single filler
cap. A fluid level indicator is mounted to the side of
the reservoir.
The braking force of the rear wheels is controlled
by electronic brake distribution (EBD). The EBD
functions like a rear proportioning valve. The EBD
system uses the ABS system to control the slip of the
rear wheels in partial braking range. The braking
force of the rear wheels is controlled electronically by
using the inlet and outlet valves located in the HCU.
Factory installed brake linings on all models con-
sists of organic base material combined with metallic
particles.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, rear park brake drums/rotors, front brake
rotors, brake lines, master cylinder, booster, HCU
and parking brake shoes.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, electrical
or vacuum operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEWJ

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ